Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build

[largeorangefont]

my budget is going to be around $16k after everything shuffles out. I don't want a car payment, so that's pretty much it.

You can get one with under 50k miles for under $20k just doing a 10 second search. I'm all for buying used German Luxo barges, but you just have to keep a couple grand free to fix any stupid problems that might arise.

[halfspec]

You can get one with under 50k miles for under $20k just doing a 10 second search.

Help me out. I did more than a 10 second search this morning and I didn't find any in the teens with mileage that low. Even in the high teens it's out of my budget. $16k is tops.
I'm totally open to suggestions. They've just got to be something that works within the constraints of my budget

Lane

[stubbyfoil]

Hey Lane, I'm an 11+ year MB Dealer Master Tech, have owned a w211 E55AMG, and have recently been flipping MB cars on the side. Feel free to shoot me any questions about common problems to look for in certain chassis. I can run MB VMI's (Vehicle Master Inquiry) for free, which is Mercedes Dealer Specific complete vehicle history if you find a few cars you're looking at.

I try to stay away from any ABC equipped car simply because parts are crazy expensive. (4x)~$1000 hydraulic shocks, (2x) $300 fluid accumulators, (2x) $2000 valve blocks, $35/liter synthetic hydraulic fluid, and $~1800 "tandem" Power steering/ABC high pressure pump. I also really dislike the R class, but don't get me started on that one haha.

Ive loved watching your build, and have found tons of inspiration here. Best of luck!

[halfspec]

Hey Lane, I'm an 11+ year MB Dealer Master Tech, have owned a w211 E55AMG, and have recently been flipping MB cars on the side. Feel free to shoot me any questions about common problems to look for in certain chassis. I can run MB VMI's (Vehicle Master Inquiry) for free, which is Mercedes Dealer Specific complete vehicle history if you find a few cars you're looking at.

I try to stay away from any ABC equipped car simply because parts are crazy expensive. (4x)~$1000 hydraulic shocks, (2x) $300 fluid accumulators, (2x) $2000 valve blocks, $35/liter synthetic hydraulic fluid, and $~1800 "tandem" Power steering/ABC high pressure pump. I also really dislike the R class, but don't get me started on that one haha.

Ive loved watching your build, and have found tons of inspiration here. Best of luck!

Thank you! I'm glad my thread served some use for you 

I know enough to stay away from ABC cars which is one of the reasons I've steered clear of S600s and S55s. However, I'd love to hear your thoughts on the R class. I'll PM you as it's probably a conversation that's best had offline

Lane

[halfspec]

Car officially sold and made the 9hr trip to the new owners garage earlier today.
It's been fun y'all 

I'll finish up this build thread with final pictures of the car as time permits
Lane

[wickedrx7]

 

[ls3_rob]

Please stay active on the forum

[piglet]

Please stay active on the forum

what he said^

[digital_hoon]

Congrats/I'm sorry for your loss. New owner got one helluva car!

[wickedrx7]

Do please stick around no matter what your next project is. I love seeing some the alternative build threads like Blake's and Joel's.

[halfspec]

Thanks guys. I'll definitely stick around. I don't think I'll ever completely get away from the PM system here haha! I guess my posts won't let people forget I know a think or two about the electronics in these cars

Found out yesterday we're going to have another daughter. Due in October 2016. 3 against 1 guys 

Next project for me is almost definitely going to be an E55. I'll decide if its forum worthy down the road though. I suspect there won't be anything really that mindblowing done to it since it's going to remain mostly stock. The exception being that I may revamp it's AV system and that's one area where I may be able to inspire other peoples plans.

I've made a breakthrough with the wife and the next vehicle selection. Finding out about our daughter on Saturday really helped to drive the fact that we're going to have an infant on our hands in October and everything that comes with it (parents that have traveled with an infant know what I mean). Anyway, the practical aspects of vans finally started to chink away at her decisions for a new vehicle. We've now switched from looking at crossovers to the real deal. Mostly Honda Odysseys and Toyota Seinnas at this point. I'm pretty excited because even though I've owned a pretty FD, I'm still a basic function over form kinda guy and even though a minivan is boring, I'll happily take it for the practical functions.

At this point I wanted to try and wrap up some of the work done on the car in the last days I owned it:

#1 - Battery Lead.

I completely replaced the battery lead with this:



The engine bay section is completely sleeved in DEI fire sleeve and it makes its way into the cabin under the ABS pump through a rubber grommit. I never got a really good picture of the routing, so here's an approximation:



Like I said the entrance to the cabin is under the ABS pump. It comes out and then over to the top of the LS intake (rear). Next it makes its way to the front of the engine under the coil cover then makes its way down to the heater hose area under the surge tank. Finally it makes a straight shot back to the starter when I created a 90 dregree terminal that bolts to the starter lug without any excess wire bending. Works great and has miles of header clearance vs my old route.

#2 - Spark plugs and wires.

Rerouting the battery lead really opened up the space between cylinders 6 and 8 so that spark plug wire route automatically became a easy path with no direct path with the primaries. The path between cylinders 6 and 4 was still a little crowded simply because of my lokar dipstick, but taking advantage of MSD spark plug wire's memory forming boots, I was able to get both routed with a good bit of clearance on both sides between the primaries.
The result was zero backfires and smooth acceleration. There is still some jerkiness in low load cruising situations. I never got to try using a honeycomb air straightener, but honestly, I don't know that that would have solved it 100%. I suspect the SD guys (namely Daniel) are correct and the ultimate solution is to kill to MAF and go 100% SD. The new owner is already taking strides to make this happen.

#3 - Aiming Headlights



I've never really taken a ton of pictures of my headlights. I don't know why. They're one of my favorite mods for the car. In my opinion, good lighting should be the first safety mod for any car that gets driven in the dark

Here's why I knew they needed some help:


Here's the cutoff after adjustment:


Compare that with my BMW's HIDs which are mounted a good 6" higher off the ground:


That pretty much wrapped up with loose ends with the car. After finishing these items I drove the car once to work, got paranoid when a big AT&T truck backed up in a space next to me (external contractors coming onsight which I didn't know about), and promptly drove it home for the remainder of its time with me. Sunday I drove the car 2 hours to Birhingham, AL and met the new owner at the airport. The only real surprise that happened on the way down was my drivers side window switch just stopped working. Only the driver's window was affected and I am almost certain it was just a contact issue because I got it to go up and down twice over 5 minutes of fiddling. Regardless I refunded the new owner enough money to buy a new switch and let them have it. I wish the new owner luck and hope the car brings him years of joy 

Quick pics I took over the last days:

Dirty and at work before AT&T showed up:


Washing for delivery:


Last pic of the 7 in my garage:


Coming next I'll post my for sale add + some fancy sale pictures

Lane

[halfspec]

Sale Ad

Warning - This is ONLY for documentation purposes. This car is SOLD

Hello and welcome to the sale of my LS1 swapped RX7

This car is the culmination of 7 years of work, over 1100 of my personal hours in labor/ research, and $53k+ in parts invested (not counting my labor which accounts for 95% of the labor done on the car). It’s something I always took my time with and never traded sub-par work or parts in exchange for a quicker turn-around. I built this car to be a 400whp daily driver that could take serious abuse day in and day out and still get 29mpg on the highway. I won’t make wild claims saying this is the fastest and best LS swapped FD out there, but I will say it is an extremely well sorted swap that exhibits seamless integration at factory levels. The type of documentation that goes along with this car is second to none. While project cars usually come with a lot of unknowns, my car will come with my build thread, 1000’s of pictures, a full bound wiring diagram that has been completely re-written for this car, and receipts that document every nut and bolt used to build this monster. Seriously, my index of receipts covers 220+ of scanned-in and digital receipts which covers thousands of parts on the car. I haven’t seen any car that’s sold on norotors with this type of accounting work built in and you’d be hard pressed to find it anywhere. You can relax with the fact that every square inch of this car is documented and there won’t be ANY guess work on your part trying to figure out details of any system on the car that I’ve worked on.
Pictures can be seen in my flickr gallery, but for a full review of my car, please sees my build thread here:

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=70.0

In the following sections I want to hit the main areas of the car and mention some select parts used in the upgrades / restoration. I did leave out the small stuff to keep the listing from stretching out 20+ pages. For a full look at ALL the parts used, please see my reference section below near the bottom of this listing.

Chassis:
This 1993 Touring Mazda RX7 started its life with me as an originally manual Montego Blue 80k mile roller here in Mississippi. It has a clear title and has never been wrecked. It was an excellent starting point for this build. Before swapping the engine, I stripped the car down to the bare chassis and prepped it using spray on Lizard skin sound control and ceramic insulation in the interior and sprayed POR15 + a UV protective top coat in the engine bay (black to prepare for the car’s future paint job). While on jackstands I also coated the wheel wells and transmission tunnel with 3M rubberized undercoating. To date I have only added 2620 miles to the swap (total of 82,620 miles) which is approximately what the new parts on this car have seen mileage wise.

Suspension:
As part of this conversion I upgraded the entire suspension setup. The four corners of the car sit on fully adjustable Koni shocks that incorporate KYB shock boots. The shocks are topped with Ground Control coilovers and aluminum perches to give fully adjustable height (currently 25” from the bottom of the tire to the top of the wheel well). I then went through and installed a 28 piece SuperPro bushing kit. Finally, things were topped off with a set of 5-Zigen FN01R-C Matte Black - 17" x 10" -35 wheels (currently still in near mint condition with zero curb rash) wrapped with Nitto NT 555 Tires (Front = 255/40ZR-17, Rear = P275/40ZR-17) and bolted on with Work lug nuts. Both the front and rear fenders were rolled flat (not pulled) with an eastwood fender roller. The current wheels and tires fit and do not rub even at full lock in motion with the current ride height.

Engine:
The LS1 383CI stroker engine was originally built and purchased by a GM master tech who’s a friend of mine. The specs on the engine at the time of purchase were as follows:

Ls1 aluminum block built for 10.4:1 compression with only 4k miles on it as built.
Complete assembly is balanced
Forged flat top 3.90" Mahle pistons
Forged Eagle rods
Forged Eagle stroker crank with 4" stroke designed to displace 383CI.
Patriot LQ9 heads with 72cc chambers 2.055"/1.60" valves with harland sharp 1.7 roller rockers.
Comp pushrods and lifters.
GM performance oil Pump and chain
Arp rod and main bolts
Trick flow head gaskets
Patriot custom cam .585"/.585" lift, 226/226 duration and 112 lsa
Water pump, Ac Compressor and both tensioners (Brand new 0 miles)
Monster Stage 2.5 Clutch (Brand new 0 miles)

Since then I have added the following:
LS6 Intake + TB
LS6 PCV Conversion
Samberg LS7 MAF Intake Tube
Samberg TB Bracket
MSD Spark Plug Wires + NGK TR55 Plugs
Lokar Dipstick
Low Mileage LS1 coil packs
Powdercoated Coil Covers
LS7 ACDelco 213-4222 MAF
Power Steering Pump
Brake Booster Check Valve
Pez Power Steering Line
New Duralast Starter
New rear cover seal and rear main seal installed 700 miles ago.
Mik3ymomo hood strut kit
See more in my receipts list.

Dyno Tune
This car has received 5+ hours of dyno time & street tuning at Carma Performance out of Nashville TN and 15+ hours of tuning and street logging by me previous to the official dyno visit. Carma Performance spent most of the time dialing in the MAF and VE tables for accurate fueling calculations that makes for a fantastic daily driver tune. They also spent time optimizing the spark table and WOT response. Car cranks on the first try and idles like a monster baby. Truly a fantastic daily driver with the power to lay the smack down on the majority of road cars out there.
Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get dyno graphs or logged power numbers. After spending time dialing in the tune, the dyno started to lose its ability to hold the car’s power. Apparently some hard hitters were on the dyno previous to my car and my car’s pull let the owner know the dyno was in need of repair. Fueling calculations based on ~63% duty cycle of the 49lb/hr injectors @ WOT in 4th gear pulls puts the car at ~ 420WHP and ~ 490HP at the flywheel holding an AFR of 12.5.
I know a dyno sheet is a big selling point and I’m disappointed I don’t have one to offer. The tuner feels very confident in the calculated HP numbers above but if you wanted to buy the car and meet at another dyno to get harder numbers and finalize the sale, I’d be happy to make it happen.

Transmission:
It started its life as a Dodge Viper T56. To mate it to my LS1 I swapped the bell housing, front plate, and bell housing (specially machined to work with the viper output shaft). Most recently the entire transmission was completely rebuilt by Texas Drivetrain Performance which included:
New Rear, 2nd, and 6th gears
Carbon kevlar synchro rings
Billet 1-2 keys
Billet 3-4 keys
Bronze 1-2-3-4 fork pads
Bronze shifter bushing
Steel 3-4 shift fork
All New Seals
All new bearings
Countershaft Extension
Brand new GM slave cylinder & throwout bearing
Brand new knurled GM pilot bearing
Brand new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts
All in, it was a $2.1k rebuild that only has ~ 700 miles on it since the rebuild. It shifts like a dream now and is strong enough take anything thrown at it.
To control this beast I installed a new MGW short shifter. Recently I had my machinist at work turn the shifter handle in a lathe to take another 1” of length off of the shifter for an even sportier look and feel. To mate with the rear end I purchased and installed a custom aluminum Drive Shaft Shop driveshaft.

Rear End:
To hold the power of the engine and put it to the ground with a useable gear ratio I chose to use a 04 Mustang Cobra 8.8” differential with a 3.55 gear ratio. The completed setup uses the following parts
04 Cobra Differential with 3.55 gears, stock LSD, and 30k miles
Samberg modified rear cover
Driveshaftshop cobra to RX7 axle bars
04 Cobra CV inners
93 Mazda CV outers

Powertrain Mounts:
The engine, transmission, and rear end are all bolted in with Samberg subframe mounts. The mounts were prepped and sprayed with gloss black POR15 before being installed.

Exhaust:
The exhaust setup has been a true labor of love. I went through 2 exhausts (one that didn’t even make it on the car) before I dreamed up the third and final exhaust which comes with the car. The exhaust merges to a single 3” after the headers and was made to flow without being obnoxiously loud. The end result is an exhaust that barks when you touch the throttle but calms down like a puppy during cruise without a hint of drone (when using the resonator).
1 7/8” JTR Longtube Headers with ceramic coating and v-band flanges
3” Y collector straight off the headers into a single 3” v-band (jointly fabricated by V8-rx7 / Anthony and John from Jackson MS)
From the collector there are two options (both included with sale). A vibrant resonator or a straight through pipe both start and end with a v-band flange (V8-rx7 / Anthony fabricated)
From the resonator / straight pipe there is a mid pipe that leads to the last v-band connection and the muffler options (fabricated by John in Jackson MS)
Finally there are two muffler options that come with the car. Either can be swapped in, in a matter of minutes as they simply v-band to the midpipe. One is a vibrant round muffler and the other is an oval vibrant muffler (V8-rx7 / Anthony fabricated).
Every inch of the exhaust from the headers back is stainless steel and TIG welded to perfection. Check out the pictures because my description can’t do it justice. Also, check out the clearance in my sale photos below because I know there were some doubters here that said the v-bands would just subtract ground clearance. I think you'll find that apart from the header v-bands (which everyone has to deal with) that's not the case.

Cooling / Heat Management
Special attention was given to heat management and properly cooling the engine and the driver. Some highlights of the system include:
Samberg rev2 Radiator/CAI/Surge Tank (powdercoated black)
Brand new A/C condenser
Spark Plug Heatsleeve Boots
DEI Firesleeves for clutch line, brake line, fuel line, AC Hoses, heater hoses, and trunk release
20psi Stant Radiator cap
Custom Molded Heater Hoses that supply a fully working heater core inside for you upstate hosers!
Custom factory grade A/C complete with R12 refrigerant to get you the one of the coldest blowing LS RX7’s in existence. Seriously. I just took a 10hr round trip to a tuner and it froze me out.

Fuel System:
The fuel system has seen 4 revisions since it originally went on my car. The entire system is tied together using Summit racing fuel rated black nylon -8AN and -6AN hose and fittings. Here are the main parts as it stands right now:
Sumped Fuel Tank (Absolutely zero fuel starvation) with -8AN outlet (one unused 1/2NPT port is currently plugged)
-8AN 100um pre-pump Summit Racing fuel filter
Exterior in-line Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Jay Racing BFP-CV6 Check Valve
-8AN 25um post-pump Summit Racing fuel filter
Aeromotive 13101 FPR
Stock LS1 fuel rail
42lb SVO Injectors (Flow 49lb/hr at GM’s standard fuel pressure of 59psi)

Brakes:
Front brakes rebuilt
Stoptech Stainless Brake Lines
Hawk HPS Brake Pads
Slotted and Drilled Brake Rotors
POR15 Caliper Painted front and rear calipers
See more in receipts list

Interior:
No expense was spared for my interior. I am a firm believer that for a car to be ‘sorted’ the interior needs to sparkle
The original and very exclusive full Speedhut Gauge conversion
Momo Tuner Steering Wheel (with working horn and turn signal canceler)
NRG Short Hub Adapter
NRG Quick Release
Brand new black ACC Carpet
Moddiction.com Billet CNC’d Shift Knob powdercoated in textured black.
MGW Trans Tunnel Plate with Boot
Redline Leather - Shift Boot
Redline Leather - Ebrake Boot
Redline Leather - Center Console
Redline Leather - Passenger Handle (one of 2 known to exist)
flyrx7 - 4 Gauge Pod
SakeBomb Aluminum Passenger Handle
JasonS - Non Bose Cargo Mat with Red Logo
JasonS - Floor Mats with Red Logo
Fire85GSLSE - < 40k Miles Leather Seats
Dash trim professionally painted by John in Jackson, MS. It uses SEM chip guard as a basis for texture then relies on an automotive PPG 2k semi-gloss topcoat for protection. Extremely good looking and durable.
Sprayed Dash Support bar black with POR15
Sprayed Pedal supports Black
Sprayed steering shaft Black
Stripped down and rebuilt the entire heater box and evaporator box with new foam and seals.
Gentex rearview mirror with auto-dim and garage door openers
JDM arm rest
Bubbles Tech Map Door Lid
See more in receipts list

Exterior:
Gorgeous Jet Black PPG Deltron Paint job that’s less than a year old. Another serious labor of love this is one of the car’s ultimate features. After a failed local paintjob I asked a friend I made from the mr2 world named John Arbuthnot based out of Jackson MS to strip and redo the car. Over a period of 10 months John crafted a flawless paintjob that quite frankly blows me away every time I look at it. It’s one of the best color changes you’ll ever see. Between John’s work and the painting I did (engine bay + lizard skin in the interior), the only montego blue you’ll find is a tiny bit of factory overspray under the car (see pics). Truly a work of art and the process was meticulously documented. Something I would definitely recommend walking through in my build thread.

Shaved windshield squirters (welded shut with aluminum)
Shaved hatch spoiler holes (welded shut)
Shaved rear bumper emblem holes
Shaved from bumper emblem holes
Removed rock guard from rocker panels and extended paint for an ultra clean look.
Aluminum door handles (completely rebuilt and powdercoated black)
99 Spec Bumper
99 Spec Lip
Smoked Running Lights
99+ Spec Black Combo Lights
99+ Spec tail lights
Factory popups converted using true clear lenses, D2S projectors, 4,300k HID Phillips bulbs, Morimoto ballasts, and E55 shrouds for a factory HID experience.
Windshield – Brand new and installed during paint
37% Lumar Black tint on door and hatch glass installed during paint

New Mazda OEM Parts:
During my build I found various parts that either didn’t meet my standards in their current state/condition or just simply needed to be replaced. The list is several hundred parts long and represents just under $4k in cost so I decided to list it all in my complete receipts list to save space in this listing. Some of the highlights include replacing pretty much every rubber molding / weatherstrip in the car (big $$$), new wheel studs, new suspension pillowball bushings, new gauge cluster lens, new brake MC, new wheel bearings, new seat belt buckles etc etc. See the whole list for the rest of the parts on the car.

Electrical:
I saved the best for last. Here’s where I’ll toot my horn a little bit.
By trade I’m an electrical engineer, so giving the car a complete electrical makeover was a task I felt comfortable tackling and it’s what really sets my car apart from the crowd. Let me remind you that although some of these modifications may seem excessive and may worry future owners with thoughts of having to service it, every single thing I have touched is documented, diagramed, photographed, and tied together in my car’s new electrical manual. This is my gift to the next owner.

HalfSpec's FSM

To start, I have gone through every inch of original wiring in my car and removed all rotary related wiring. All of the following mods were integrated into the stock and LS1 harnesses while the wire sleeve / wrap was removed. Any extra wiring added was always TXL crosslinked automotive grade wire and was terminated with automotive grade Delphi Packard connectors. All additional wiring and connectors were always fused and gauged for the maximum amount of current the wire would ever see. After modifying all of my harnesses I re-sleeved everything with black nylon sleeving.

Completely customized and integrated LS1 engine harness
Completely upgraded Speedhut gauge system including 4 pod mounted (top of dash) auxiliary gauges. Both sections of gauges can easily be removed with a single plug. All gauges work 100%
New consolidated, relocated, easily accessed (engine compartment), and labeled fuse and relay box.
Relocated Battery to passenger side rear bin.
Relocated LS1 PCM to passenger side rear bin
Installed AEM EUGO wideband sensor and controller in passenger side rear bin
Fully integrated RaceLogic Traction Control system with control panel mounted in the lower dash DIN. Its brain was installed behind the driver’s side rear bin with a small access panel in the bin itself. Hardwired bypass was integrated into the LS1 harness so it can quickly be disabled by unplugging it and terminating the LS1 harness with an included plug. The system can also always be turned off with the control panel. This is a rare option as Racelogic is now out of business and a lot of people are scrambling to find this system for their cars.
Fully Integrated Viper 5901 2 way alarm. Functions include:
Wiring fully integrated with other harnesses so wiring cannot be traced to the brain which, by the way, is nowhere to be found under the driver’s side of the dash (location will only be disclosed to new owner).
Door, trunk, and hood triggers
Fully calibrated microwave sensor (senses movement inside the car without having to use a
vibration sensor (no more activated car alarms with thunder / loud car exhuast) )
Factory Alarm indicator light (upgraded with red LED inside)
Alarm siren mounted inside front bumper
Keyless entry (passenger AND driver’s side)
Rear Trunk Pop
Running lights blip when arming disarming
Starter Cut (Does NOT use the factory starter cut relay)
¼ mile 2 way range to page the remote if someone activates the alarm
Hella Horns with a very minimized / optimized circuit tied to the Momo steering wheel. Works even though the steering wheel is removable.
Optima billet battery tray
Optimum red top battery
Prewired hookup for Battery Tender Jr.
AEM UEGO Wideband
Self Exciting Regulator for Alternator (makes the alternator have a cleaner install as it eliminates the need for any wiring)
All interior and exterior bulbs were replaced with brand new http://www.autolumination.com bulbs.
All dash and console buttons switches and displays were upgraded with blue and red LEDs.
Rear relay box was added under the Driver’s side bin to facilitate the new functionality of the fuel pump, rear defrost, and trunk popper.
Integrated LS1 PCM Controlled Dual Stage Fan Control
Integrated LS1 PCM controlled A/C Compressor Control actuated with the stock A/C button.
Integrated LS1 PCM controlled Fuel Pump Control
Integrated LS1 PCM controlled MIL Light
Switched 12V Auxiliary Connector Located by Dome Light (for future install of radar detector).
Fully functional high and low HID control
Hardwired autodimming Gentex rearview mirror with programmable garage door buttons
The cleanest kickpanels you’re likely to ever see in a 7 (swapped or not)

Audio System:
I wrapped up the car with a modest 3-way active (crossovers are digital) audio system. The installation quality is on par with the rest of my electrical work and was fully documented. The components include:

Pioneer DEH-80PRS headunit
Dual Image Dynamic ID8 rev3 subs installed in a DamonB inspired sub box placed behind the hatch divider
Zapco ZSL-165 6.5" components mounted in the doors with speaker adapters from car-speaker-adapters.com and the tweeters were installed in the A-pillars using custom aimed pods.
Finally the system is all tied together with a JBL GTO-5EZ amp (150 watts to each front woofer (4ohms) and 500watts to the subs (2ohms parallel)). Tweeters are powered straight off the headunit. The amplifier is mounted to the back of the sub box and is fully accessible when the hatch divider is removed (see pictures).

Paperwork and Extras that will come with the sale of the car:
Clear Title
Bill of Sale
Digital copy of the engine tune in the form of a HPTuners file. I do have a HPTuners Pro interface that’s not included with the sale of this car, however, I’m open to offers.
Digital copy of 220+ receipts + index
Physical copy of 100+ paper receipts
Digital and Physical copy of full car electrical diagram
Traction control and starter kill bypass plugs
Master and Valet keys + 2 Viper Alarm dongles (One two-way and One one-way)
Work wheel lug key
Any and all physical manuals I have for the parts installed
Digital copy of every picture I have that I’ve taken of the car

Reference Materials:
Build Thread
Completely Customized Wiring Diagram Document
Receipts

Note – The version of the receipts list in the link above is only a reference and is incomplete as it doesn’t actually include active links to the scanned in receipts. The full version that will come with the car will include all the linked and scanned in receipts + the actual hard copies (giant stack).

I believe that’s it for the build list of my car. There are plenty of odds and ends that weren’t listed for the sake of brevity, but you can reference everything to your heart’s content by reading through my build thread, receipt list, and electrical documentation.

Gotchas:
There are none. This car is 100% sorted. I listed this car several years ago asking more than I’m asking now with a list of 8 things that still needed to be done (including paint, exhaust, and audio system). I’ve put $12k+ into the car to wrap up the loose ends since my original listing and I’m asking less for it now that I did originally. I believe my asking price is much more realistic this time around and a steal for this car. When I put the car up for sale the first time, I had burnt out. This time I finished strong and worked out every nagging issue. The car has been finished for 6 months now and I’ve been preparing to sell it for 3. Every little weird issue that’s come up has been worked out and everything works. This is a truly sorted car.

Why am I selling?
I got older, got married, had a kid, and now have a second on the way. I have zero time, have an ever shrinking budget, and my car needs have changed significantly now that I'm out of my 20s and getting into my mid-30s. I feel like I’ve accomplished everything I set out to do with this car, learned a lot, and had a blast doing it, but in the end my priorities have changed and it’s time to move on. Side issue for selling is that I moved to a new house last year and while it’s been fantastic, it’s on a gravel road. The road is pretty decent considering its gravel but I still have to drive the car like 2MPH down ¼ mile of gravel to get the RX7 safely out of the neighborhood and that’s wearing on me.

Brass Tax:
I am asking for $XX,XXX USD all in which is more than $20k less than what I’ve got in the car in parts alone not even counting the 1100+ hours over 7 years (equivalent to half a year of work at my full time job) I’ve got in it (engineering time ain’t cheap).
I’d like to be able to bluff and say “I don’t have to sell this car” or I’ll sit on this car forever until it sells for my asking price, but realistically I have to sell it and I need to move it before the next baby comes in October so I’ve got a progressive pricing strategy which will lower the price over time. Please don’t take that to mean I’m ready to slash prices immediately as I’m not in a bind financially and I won’t be buying tShe replacement family cars until after this car has sold. I’m not going to accept low offers during the first couple of weeks and I won’t be dropping the price by thousands every month. You couldn’t build a more gorgeous, solid, and sorted LSX FD for less than my asking price. I guarantee it.

-----------End of ad-----------

Like I said, the above ad is simply a historical document at this point because the car isn't even in Mississippi anymore. Please don't message me asking to buy it 

Lane

[halfspec]

Pictures

Here are some pictures I took that were originally meant for the sale ad. Since the car was never officially listed, only a handful of people actually saw them. I thought I'd share 




Lane

[paul_3rdgen]

The time and effort you put into an ad that you didn't have to write is proof alone to how you approached this build.   Well done, and good luck on your future builds!
Hope you stick around, this forum has some great people and it sucks to loose them.


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[halfspec]

The time and effort you put into an ad that you didn't have to write is proof alone to how you approached this build.   Well done, and good luck on your future builds!
Hope you stick around, this forum has some great people and it sucks to loose them.

Thanks Paul 

Finally got the pictures debugged above so I've got a couple more to post:

More Pics


Technically the pictures in this post are from 2 years ago. Specifically they were for my last false start of a sale. I just thought a couple of the pictures captured aspects of the car I didn't capture as well the second round, so here they are.

Lane