Alright kids. Since it was requested, here's how I did my driver's side actuator:
Here are the parts and quantities you will need:
(2) -
http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-SRS105-5-Pin-Socket-Interlocking/dp/B005EUWMU2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1337888729&sr=1-1(2) -
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/1432791-1/?qs=R6sPIhOkp6of%252bP3hbc%252bwGA%3d%3d(1) -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009SWLE6/ref=pe_175190_21431760_C1_cs_sce_dp_2(1 - Set) -
http://car-speaker-adapters.com/items.php?id=SAK068(1) - Alarm of your choice as long as it supports lock/unlock with negative pulses
Wiring next
On the factory diagram, all you are really working with is two connectors. K2-01 which is in the drivers side kick panel and plugs into the factory lock controller (which is green) and J4-08 which is a connector on the upper left hand side of the driver's door circled in red below:
The green circle shows where the wiring starts which leads to my new actuator in the door. I just depinned the green/yellow and green/red wires from J4-08 and ran them to the new actuator. One thing I didn't keep track of is the polarity of the green/red and green/yellow wires in respect with the new actuators. If you finish and your driver's side locks when your passenger side unlocks, you'll simply have to switch the wires of the actuator.
Alright, that handles the wiring through the door using existing wiring and not having to deal with the f&#$n stupid X-20 connector. Now comes the fun part.
Go ahead and chop off the connector of K2-01 and throw away the OEM green lock controller. Connect the Green/Red wire to the Orange wire wire and connect both to the unlock relay output shown in blue at the bottom of the second diagram. Likewise, connect the Green/Yellow wire to the Green wire and hook it to the lock relay output shown in purple at the bottom of the second diagram. This basically ties the existing actuator and new actuators together and hands their control over to the new relay system. Connect the 12v wires in the relay diagram to the Blue wire from K2-01. Connect the GND wires from the relay diagram to the Black wire from K2-01. Now all that's left is to connect your lock and unlock wires from your alarm system to the lock and unlock inputs on the relay diagram. When you're done you should have used all the wires that ran to K2-01.
The pros of wiring it this way is that you get rid of the old lock controller and replace it with brand new relays. You also don't have to do any wiring through the door connector. The cons of wiring it this way is that you lose the passenger side mimmic of the driver's side lock / unlock latch. I.E., if you lock your driver's door manually with the latch, the passenger side lock will not actuate to lock like it used to with the OEM system.
Alright, now on to more install pics:
Here's how I mounted the actuator:
The green circle shows a good reference point for mounting the actuator. Its basically a level change in the new speaker panels. Just butt the actuator up against that and you should be golden. The actual mounting the actuator was acomplished by a nutsert in the door skin, and a bolt + nut that went throught the speaker panel.
Here's a view from above. You want to keep the actuator arm as close as possible to the door skin so it doesn't interfere with the window switch that will occupy a lot of this space later on.
Here's a view of how I connected the actuator rod to the latch assembly. All of this hardware comes with the actuator. When installing, you'll want to manually move the actuator in and out to make sure the push and pull's throw is correct for actuating the latch. If you do it wrong, you'll end up putting pressure on a lot of parts and you'll probably break something later on.
Finally, this is where I mounted my new relays.
System works VERY well. I'm happy now
Lane
