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Author Topic: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build  (Read 347406 times)

Offline halfspec

Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« on: May 06, 2010, 10:14:59 PM »
Update - 6-22-16 -> This build officially wrapped up between April and May of 2016 or pages in the mid 60s of this build thread. My priorities have changed vastly over the 6 year build so when I met all of my goals and the car was finished I expressed my interest to sell and the car was purchased before I was able to even officially list it. Member kinger is the current owner of the car now and his thread picks up where mine left off. You can visit his build thread here


My name is Lane Simmons, I'm an Electrical Engineer and I have been interested in building a V8 RX7 for about 4 years before beginning this build. I've owned 2 mr2's over the past 10 years but recently got my chance to switch over to RX7's and I made my move after selling my mr2 turbo to my younger brother.

I was very fortunate to meet someone locally who was selling their 1993 FD roller + 1 7/8 JTR headers + full Hinson's V8 conversion over eBay. After talking to the owner extensively over the phone we worked out a price and I purchased it directly. At the time, he was pulling the LS1 he'd built for the RX7 to put into his 69 (If I remember correctly) Camaro. However, a few weeks down the road he offered to sell me the engine, transmission, and clutch as well because someone made an offer on the Camaro he apparently couldn't refuse. It turned out that it was an offer I too could not refuse

Plan -

Ls1 aluminum block built for 10.4:1 compression with only 4k miles on it as built.
Complete assembly is balanced
Forged flat top 3.90" Mahle pistons
Forged Eagle rods
Forged Eagle stroker crank with 4" stroke designed to displace 383CI.
Patriot LQ9 heads with 72cc chambers 2.055"/1.60" valves with harland sharp 1.7 roller rockers.
Comp pushrods and lifters.
Gm performance oil Pump and chain
Arp rod and main bolts
Trick flow head gaskets
Patriot custom cam .585"/.585" lift, 226/226 duration and 112 lsa
0 miles on the Water pump, Ac Compressor and both tensioners
Brand new msd coils and wires.
LS6 Intake + PCV conversion

Monster Stage 2

30 spline Viper T56 with Corvette bell and tail housings.

Rear End:
Cobra 04 pumpkin with 3.55 gears and DSS axles.

Sumped fuel tank
Bosch 044 pump
SVO #42 Greentop injectors
Aeromotive FPR
8AN Supply line
6AN return line

Drivetrain mounts:
All Samberg with cobra cradle + DSS driveshaft and axles. All the Hinson related stuff you see in these pictures has been sold.

Electronics: (Done by yours truly)
Downsized Body harness
Relocating relay box, X-01, and X-02 to a new built from scratch Delpi Fuse/Relay box mounted where X-01 and X-02 normally sit.
Full Speedhut gauge install
Racelogic TC

Full Superpro bushing kit
New pillowballs
Koni Yellows + GC Coilover upgrades
Hawk HPS pads
Stoptech SS brake lines
17x10 +35 5zigen FN01R-C's with 275/40/17R and 255/40/17F tires
Work lug nuts
Power Steering line by Pez

Samberg Rev2 radiator + CAI

99+ JDM Tails
Shaved spoiler, wiper arm, and spray nozzle (My build started with a touring chassis)
Aluminum door handles
Hella Twin Supertone Horns
DIY HID Projector Upgrade which includes the following:
Morimoto 3Five Ballasts (35w)
Bi-xenon: Morimoto Mini projectors
Philips 85122+ (4300K) bulbs
E55 Shrouds
Crystal Clear lenses on stock RX7 light housings.

Tan to Black conversion. All I have so far is some sub 30k black leather seats I picked up 2 weeks ago.
ACC carpet
MGW T56 short shifter
MGW 6 speed shift knob
Momo Tuner Steering Wheel
Momo Hub
NRG Quick Release
Redline leather trim
SakeBomb aluminum passenger handle
JasonS floor mats
Lizard Skin sound control

1 7/8" JTR Longtube Headers
Custom dual 3" exhaust by Kevin Doe

400-500WHP :D


Offline halfspec

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #3 on: May 06, 2010, 10:27:18 PM »
Worked in the shop for about 6 hours today. Didn't accomplish much. Managed to get the car on jack stands (holy crap this baby's light!). I also installed a driver's side aluminum door handle from (can get them for $160 on eBay (yeah, hindsight is 20/20)). I tried to tape up my engine intake/exhaust ports, but even after degreasing my painter's tape wouldn't stick to the surface of the block/head. I see people all the time with this kind of tape on the engine. What do you have to do to make it stick?? For the time being I just stuffed everything with shop towels. Finally, I spent a 2 hours chasing and cleaning 5 block holes for the transmission. Apparently, a PO mounted the engine to and engine stand using 3/8" - 16 bolts instead of using M10-1.50 bolts and marred the threads. Wasn't catastrophic, but I'm a perfectionist when it comes to threads and I spent the time to make it right.
Other than that, I just cleaned and organized. Bought a propane bullet heater and a 1000Watt tripod mounted light system to help keep the shop workable so that had to be installed and set up :)

Got a new toy the other day too:

A low mileage Cobra Diff from lsoo7! Thanks bud!

Now all I need to do is see if I can find some prebuilt DSS axles from somebody who isn't using them and I'll be set :D


Offline halfspec

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #4 on: May 06, 2010, 10:29:01 PM »
Got a little work done Saturday. I'm trying to focus on cleaning and prepping the engine bay for paint, so I tried to remove what I could. Because of failing shop lights (Damn cheap Autozone lights), I spent half the afternoon running to Lowes to find replacement 500wat halogen bulbs. In the end, I really only managed to remove the engine harness.

Nice to have one of these bad boys when it's snowing outside :D

Can you spot what's missing here?

I bought the RX7 with the ABS deleted but since this is going to be my daily driver, I sold the ABS delete to reinstall the ABS.

The ABS delete looks like a well thought out solution.

Good bends and was very stealthy.


Offline halfspec

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #5 on: May 06, 2010, 10:30:19 PM »
I managed to almost completely strip the engine bay and interior. The only thing left in the engine bay is short brake hardlines that go to the fenders, windshield wiper actuator (how the hell does this even come out!?!), subframe (only loosely connected), and the hood latch assembly. I went ahead and stripped out the body harness (not for the feint of heart for those who haven't attempted it) because I want to strip out all the unnecessary circuits and because it will make painting the engine bay easier. I'm also stripping out the entire airbag system as I'm planning on going with an aftermarket steering wheel anyway.

Something I noticed when removing everything up front is that if you have your fd on jackstands, the front end gets so light that the rear two jackstands form a pivot point and it becomes VERY easy to tip it backwards. Because of this, I put a jack under the diff to stabilize things :ohnoes:

I also worked on stripping out the interior:

The only reason the carpet is still there is because I haven't removed the rear bins. I'm planning on dynamatting everything and putting some new black carpet in. Also, while the dash and ducting are out, I'm going to thoroughly clean everything, especially the ducting. I didn't take pictures, but the blower fan is full of crap along with the evaporator and heater core. It'll be nice to know that the FD will be blowing non-smelly air when it goes back together :D

That's pretty much it so far. Next week I'll hopefully be able to start prepping the engine bay for paint so that I'll be able to paint it two weeks from now. I'm planning on painting the bay and all my mounting hardware with POR15. I bought a 30 gallon compressor the other week that I think will be up to the task:

All I need to do now is buy the paint and buy a paint gun. Any suggestions for a single purpose (POR15) gun??

Oh, and look at all the goodies that showed up over the last 2 weeks!

The last pic is the ABS Actuator that ssrx8 sold me (great guy). I also got the hard lines from him but didn't take pictures.


Offline halfspec

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #6 on: May 06, 2010, 10:31:22 PM »

Whole lotta nothing happening lately. That's a picture of the shop 2 weeks ago. It's way too crowded. I'm really at the point where stuff NEEDS to go back into the car because I don't have room for any more disassembling. I'm using the PVC to build the framework and the box fans for intake/exhaust of a home-made clean room for the front of my car for painting the engine bay. My engine bay has been degreased and sanded for 2 weeks, but I keep finding things I need to take care of before I paint. Mainly, cut/grind down the lip that interferes with some intake manifolds. The P/O beat the lip down and I didn't want to paint it like that, sooooo, I bought an air cutter and an angle grinder and got to work. It took fooorever. Probably didn't buy the right tools for the job (rotary cutter). I felt like I could have ground it down faster. All-in-all I probably spent 3-4 hours getting it right. After that I had a lovely coat of powdered sheet metal all over my engine bay danget! Cleaning is a PITA for me because my shop/storage facility doesn't have running water, so I have to buy jugs of water and use a pressurized sprayer to wash with. I won't even go into the details of how keep the water off the floor...

The other thing that's been keeping me from painting the engine bay is this:

After reading through through Richard's thread, I've decided that while I've got everything stripped down I might as well take care of the wheel wells:

Prepped and masked.


I LOVE this stuff! I've only done the front wheel wells, but as soon as I disassemble my rear end I'm going to do the rear wells, my fuel tank, and I'll probably end up doing the transmission tunnel. Buy this stuff in cases gentlemen because you'll want to paint everything with it :D

Lets see, what else do I have to report..... Oh, I got my Cobra inners..

Some misc goodies:

AND! I ordered a set of 5zigen FN01R-C Hot's in matte black from Four 17x10" with a +35 offsets:

I'll be running 255/40/17's in them. Not crazy about stretching the tires, but I'll need the clearance even after a fender roll I'm afraid. Oh well, worth it in my opinion. This is the stance I'm after:

ballinnmiami240sx's RX7 from the club minus the red pinstripes.

I hadn't planned on buying wheels this early in the project, but I decided to go ahead because 101tires had them in stock and I didn't want to deal with availability problems 2 months down the road.

Guess that's it. I think I'm going to take a few days off the first of April to have a paint week. Other than my engine bay, I've got subframes and a boatload of suspension parts to dress.


Still working on the front harness. It's a real bear. I HATE The X connectors. Every other connector is so well documented, but the X connectors just pop in-and-out of every page. You basically have to read the manual cover to cover for each X connector while taking detailed notes to know what you can ax and what you need to keep. Working on X-7, X-10, and X-4 at the moment.. Ugh...

Offline halfspec

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2010, 10:32:59 PM »
Took Thursday off for a 4 day weekend to try and wrap up my engine bay paint job.

As mentioned earlier, I've been working on notching the firewall so I'll have the option of upgrading to a fast intake later without messing up my pretty paint.
This is it after a lot of grinding and a very small amount of filler.

You can see it in later pics but I also hit it with some high build primer. Smoothed out very well :)

I finished the work on the notch on Thursday. Then I finished my front wiring harness on Friday! WOOHOO! I don't have pictures, but I'll post them soon. I haven't re-wrapped it yet, because I want to test everything on the car, but after triple checking everything I'm pretty sure I have it the way I want it. It's not the fanciest delete / rewire, but it works for me.

Things I deleted:
B1-01 - ECU Plugs
D1-02 - Washer Motor
B1-09 – Igniter
B1-10 – Condenser
B1-05 - Fuel Pump Resistor
B2-01, B2-02, B2-03, B2-04, B2-05, and B2,06 - Basically the entire stock fan relay system :D

As you can see, I didn't delete the relay box. I opted to keep it since personally I think the fan relays just hanging out in the engine bay are waay uglier + the Samburg radiator does a good job of hiding the relay box :)

Some things I rewired:
1. The 30A fused Radio relay now controls the Taurus fan level 1 (actuated by a the LS1 PCM grounding the relay coil)
2. The Circuit Opening relay and the Fuel pump relay are fused through the 60A Cooling Fan Fuse and power the Taurus fan 
     level 2 in parallel (actuated by a the LS1 PCM grounding the relay coils).
3. The Air Pump Relay takes a GND AC request from the HVAC control and turns it into a 12v signal for the LS1 PCM
4. The AC Relay takes a GND signal from the LS1 PCM and provides 12v to the AC solenoid.
5. All the control wires for the above modifications were routed to the passenger kick panel side of the harness

I think that's pretty much it. The harness slimmed down a little bit and I depinned the connectors that lost wires. I think it will look much cleaner installed. It will certainly be easier to wire the LS1 ECU as most of what it needs is now in the passenger kick panel :)

On Friday I finished prepping my engine bay for paint, built a makeshift paint booth, and masked 90% of the bay.

Double filtered box fans :)

Exhaust fan in the front

Input fan up top



Finally, on Sunday, I painted the engine bay.

1 coat of POR15 and 1 coat of BLACKCOAT (POR15's UV protected topcoat)

Glad I built a tent. POR15 is naaasty stuff

Respirator after first coat (Don't worry, I had extra filters)

What the box fans picked up

The $30 workhorse

What I learned about spraying POR15:
1. Plan to have more light at your disposal than you think you need
2. Get the best goggles you can afford - The $2 splash gaurd "goggles" at lowes didn't cut it. Even though the have an egonomic look, they aren't airtight and POR15 fumes are serious! Serious enough that even though I couldn't 'smell' the fumes, my eyes 'felt' them :(
3. GET THE BEST GOGGLES YOU CAN AFFORD! - If you are shooting in the southeast, it's humid, and your mask will fog. I had some drips in my paint because I couldn't see the wet edge of the paint (my fault for continuing). Fixed it with a $12 pair that sealed to my face and was thermal.
4. POR15 solvent burns! Get some overspray on your ankle, just wipe it off with some POR15 solvent right? Wrong! Funny thing is, their solvent is greasy and I had to use Acetone get it all off and stop the burning. I know... I'm stupid :D

Overall, it was a good learning experience. Now I feel better about buying a better spray gun because I think my confidence is high enough that I'll actually use it.

Next week I'm going to try and paint my subframe parts.


Offline FCs Rule

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2010, 11:14:46 PM »
nice looks like you got things going right!
|.....Overnight.....................| ||
|........Japan Parts................||'|";,___.

hate to say it but i told you so!

Offline 93silverbullet

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Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #10 on: May 07, 2010, 01:31:12 AM »
Pretty!  :D

Offline digitalsolo

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #11 on: May 07, 2010, 11:34:26 AM »
Lane, glad to see you over here.   Your thread in the electrical section (that I poached over to here) is one of the most useful in a while, I just used it myself last weekend.   :)

Build looks great, looks like you're doing it the right way.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage - Gen V LT4/TR6060, upper/lower pullies, headers, tune.
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Offline Venom13132

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Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2010, 11:26:19 AM »
nice!  keep the pictures coming
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
2010 Cadillac Escalade: Daily Driver and pulls my 18' car hauler

Offline bullitz400

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #13 on: May 08, 2010, 07:21:32 PM »
Looks good! Keep the pics coming !

Offline James.Smith

Re: Mississippi FD - 383CI Forged LS1 Stroker Build
« Reply #14 on: May 08, 2010, 07:53:31 PM »
Mississippi hell yea... Come see me some time..