Drop in molded heater hoses for FD - Part Numbers Included

[halfspec]

Posed the question a couple of weeks back and it didn't seem like anyone has gone through the trouble to find molded heater hoses that fit the LS1 in a FD chassis better than a straight hose that bends way up on the fender liner. Well, after several trips to my local auto stores I have the solution.



Gates 18078
Gates 28471

and for our Canadian brothers here is a set of alternative part numbers found by quinns in reply #47:

Dayco 87611
Dayco 80405

I haven't verified the above part numbers, but I expect quinns has tried them.

The picture above doesn't actually show both of the correct hoses. I later found that 18078 was a better fit since it is a 5/8" hose that scales up to 3/4" right at the water pump nozzle. Gates 28471 is 5/8" all the way though. I've found that 5/8" is a good tight fit on the heater core barbs (may require boiling the hoses + windex) and my LS1 water pump uses a 3/4" and a 5/8" barb, thus the need for one hose to transition to 3/4"

They aren't truly "drop in" like my title says as they will require a little shortening, but it's pretty dang close and when you're finished, the routing will look factory.

Lane

[mefarri]

you = beast.  Too bad I'll be using AN fittings.   

[MPbdy]

Good to know

[digitalsolo]

I used those on Azar's car.   

[spacevomit]

Thanks Lane! Good stuff.

Did you guys have to look through a lot of hoses to find these?

[halfspec]

Thanks guys

I used those on Azar's car.   

Yes, I remember you saying you'd used molded hoses but you were being a little butthole two weeks ago when you posted in my original thread and wouldn't give out the PNs

Thanks Lane! Good stuff.

Did you guys have to look through a lot of hoses to find these?

It wasn't too bad. The 5/8" hose that flaired to 3/4" was the worst since none of the stores local to me had exactly what I was looking for, but they had hoses that put me in the ballpark PN wise and I honed my search in using google.

I wasn't going to post pictures before I was completely done installing them, but someone asked so here's an intermediate shot.



When I took this picture I was using a full 3/4" hose for the bigger barb on the waterpump and then manually steped down the 5/8" further down the line. The part number I posted in the 1st post lists the hose that does the flair on its own.

Also. I was asked about heat concerns since the hoses pass close to the headers. My pic shows fiberglass sleaving I bought at mcmaster carr, but I've since decided against it since I think it's going to be a dirt magnet. I'm in the process of replacing the braided sleeving in my engine bay with DEI Fire Sleeving that has a iron oxide silicone rubber shell and should 'clean up' a little easier. If you want to do something similar, you'll need ~ 6ft of 1" ID fire sleeve:

http://www.amazon.com/010474-I-D-Fire-Sleeve-Tape/dp/B001HYRPC4

Lane
   

[digitalsolo]

Haha, I never pay attention to part numbers.   I just grab and go. 

[Sabre002]

damn man you think you got them clamps tight enough?  I would just use the factory spring clamps they dont cut into the nice hoses you just bought.

[halfspec]

Haha! That picture makes it look worse than it is. I'm kind of gun shy when it comes to coolant leaks. I had a leak at the heater core connection that I misdiagnosed as a leaky core. One dash removal and installation later I'm warry of leaky coolant connections

Lane

[Sabre002]

ya well worm clamps suck balls they cut hoses

[halfspec]

I've always heard not to use them on fuel lines, but I never really dug to found out why. Good to know.
I didn't get any OEM clamps with the engine, but I'm pretty sure I can find some constant-tension clamps from mcmaster.

Thanks for the tip

Lane

[Shavel]

Thanks Lane!

[wompa164]

I've always heard not to use them on fuel lines, but I never really dug to found out why. Good to know.
I didn't get any OEM clamps with the engine, but I'm pretty sure I can find some constant-tension clamps from mcmaster.

Thanks for the tip

Lane

Here are the parts I ordered from McMaster, full constant tension Breeze clamps for my Samberg V2 setup + heater hoses:

2   54205K13   5 Each   Type 301 Ss Constant-tension Worm-drive Clamp, 11/16" To 1-1/4" Clamp Dia Range, 9/16" Band Wid
3   5325K28   5 Each   304 Ss Constant-tension Clamp W/410 Ss Screw, 1-1/4" To 2-1/8" Clamp Dia Range, 5/8" Band Width

[halfspec]

Thanks wompa164

I like constant tension screw clamps but are they any better than worm gear clamps in respect to cutting into hoses?

Lane

[digitalsolo]

Yes, yes they are.