Non dummies will find better ways to do some of this stuff, but this works.
This is a basic mod for the 1999 - 2002 LS1, that will get everything needed for a running car. It does not address the different emissions requirements of the various government agencies or things such as dual fuel pumps or cruise control.
Here are links containing the 1998 info.
http://www.ls2.com/boggs/torques/98pinpcm.htm http://www.lt1swap.com/98-02_ls1.htmTHIS IS NOT A "PLUG & PLAY" You will be pulling wires out of the LS1 harness, extending some of them, adding resistors, soldering & splicing LS1 wires to your FC/FD wires.
For a "plug & play" harness mod, i recommend that you go to Pez.
It is convenient to pull the following wires out of the camobird connectors
...C100...black 10 pin connector.
............H- dk blue (high fan)
............J- dk green (low fan)
............C- dk green (A/C status), B-dk gn/w (A/C clutch relay control)
...C101...grey 10 pin connector.
............D- dk green/white (fuel pump relay control out)
...C102...
............A- purple (starter solenoid "start" power in)
...C105...black 8 pin connector.
............G- white (tach signal out)
Blue 10 pin....DkGrn/W (A/C request)
There are 5 pink wires going to the F body external connectors. cut those wires off to equal length & skin about 1/2" of insulation. Twist the ends & solder them together, along with an extension wire. #10 wire will do for the extension. That wire will go to the ignition-on wire at the ignition switch.
There are two orange wires on the F body external connector. Those wires will connect to battery constant.
After you do these power wires, you can cut off the F body external connectors.
There is one very long bundle that has a rubber grommet on it. Be careful when you cut that bundle off, because there is a loop of orange wire, that comes out of the fat harness shroud, at the top end of that bundle. There are no needed wires in that long snake.
You may want to save the long wires, for use later.
4. Solder a 470 ohm resistor in the red wire coming from pin 15, red connector.
5. CAGS- Cut off the CAGS plug from the harness. Solder a 2.2K ohm resister between the two cut wires.
BLUE CONNECTOR WIRES.
1. Fan control, low temperature-dark green wire coming from pin 42, blue connector.
2. OBD2. Dark green from pin 58 blue ?serial data?.
RED CONNECTOR WIRES.
1. Speedometer control-Skin about 1/2 inch of insulation from the purple/white wire from pin 21. red connector. If you are using a smart speedometer, the purple/white wire goes to the speedometer input.
2. Tachometer. White wire on pin 10, red connector.
3. Fan control- High temperature. Dark blue wire, pin 33.
4. Starter-Use the purple wire already in the harness.
5. Oil pressure. A wire must be added if the Mazda gray/red wire is missing. One end will go to the gauge. the other end will go to your sensor. This wire will come out of the harness at the location of your sensor installation.
6. Coolant temperature. A wire must be added. This wire will go from the sensor location @ the threaded hole at the rear of the passenger side cylinder head, to the gauge.
7. Check engine light. Use the brown/white wire from pin 46.
8. Fuel pump relay. Dark green/white wire coming from pin 9, red connector.
9. Back up lights. Not controlled by the PCM. connect one plug wire to ignition-on, & the other to any red wire, that goes to the lights.
10. Reverse lockout-automatic only- light green, pin 44 , red, if you are lucky it will be there
GM A/C
11. A/C request. Dark green/white-pin 17
12. A/C status. Dark green-pin 18
13. A/C clutch. Dark green/white-pin 43
