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04G35S 1JZGTE VVTI FD3S Build
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 21:04
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I figured it was time to introduce myself. I have a 1993 Mazda RX7 R1. I bought the car almost 4 years ago now with a 6k mile single turbo build. Frankly the car was a mess when I bought it. I spent the first winter cleaning it up and getting it running right. Well, 3 professionally built and tuned engines later I am done with a rotary!
Ill start with I refuse to put a V8 in my car, I have my reasons but I wont dive into it. I also considered a 2jz but wanted to be able to run a stock hood. So that is why I landed on a 1JZ VVTI. There is not an engine mount kit on the market that will let you retain the stock hood so I decided to make my own mount kit using the original sub frame. I started on this about 4 months ago so Ill try to put everything in sequence.
First of all, here is my car and my build with the 13B. It was a blast when it was running right, which was never for longer than 900 miles!
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#1
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 21:26
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First thing first was find a 1JZ VVTI. I bought one from an importer in PA. I got it in 3 days which was awesome. Came with a video showing 170-180 comp on all cylinders.
Had to change to a rear sump pan for fitment.
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#2
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 21:59
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Next thing was to decide on what to do for a transmission. R154's are crazy expensive and clutch setups and even worse.
I decided to go with the Auto Sports Engineering mount kit. It utilizes a CD009 Nissan 350z transmission and a VQ35HR Clutch setup. Unfortunately when I bought this kit the dual clutch setup was not available from ASE. I opted for an ACT Xtreme Pressure plate and 6-puck sprung disk.
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#3
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 22:02
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On to the test fit now that the trans bolted up.
Had issues with the oil pan to steering rack. I could not get the hood to clear with the OEM steering rack mounting... On to modifying the sub frame!
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#4
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 22:07
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I decided to use the OEM engine mount arms off the 1JZ and the OEM isolators from the 13b for the mounts. I started by filling the open area in the subframe and then made pedestals for the mounts to sit on. The passenger side was easy... the left not so much. I had to lower the steering rack about 1 1/2 inches to give me the clearance to the hood I wanted. The driver side pedestal then had to be made to fit the steering shaft from the rack through it and up to the column.
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#5
by
04G35S
on 23 Oct, 2017 22:12
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The modification of the steering rack mount was a project all by itself. If I just cut the mounts off and lowered it I would have run the risk of have the subframe sit 1 1/2 inches closer to the ground. So to fix this I split the section I cut off in half and welded a flat piece of steel on the bottom of it. This made it even stronger than it originally was and made it so the subframe is only about .5 inches lower then originally.
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#6
by
freeskier7791
on 24 Oct, 2017 10:45
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cool build, I like the idea of using sheet metal to modify the subframe. Are you worried about clearance issues with the exhaust by having those new pedestals? I know you will like the 1JZ VVTI, I have a friend with one in an S13
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#7
by
04G35S
on 24 Oct, 2017 12:12
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I am using a Supra Store manifold and have no clearance issued what so ever. That's the nice thing about using the original aluminum mounts.
The subframe picked up some weight, but is significantly stronger than original.
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#8
by
freeskier7791
on 24 Oct, 2017 13:45
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I am using a Supra Store manifold and have no clearance issued what so ever. That's the nice thing about using the original aluminum mounts.
The subframe picked up some weight, but is significantly stronger than original.
Cool!
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#9
by
drewr4411
on 10 Nov, 2017 15:36
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The DIY route is awesome and another reason for all of us to consider the 1JZ as and option.
When searching around for mount kits did you see the KS Racing brand for sale on EBAY? (YES EBAY) I know what you might think but apparently the E36 m3 guys say they are perfectly fine for swap and are decent quality.
[smg id=9418 type=full align=center caption="!B)D K7!BGk~$(KGrHqF,!jMEv1+0!cLyBML2iFQyTg~~ 12"]
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#10
by
04G35S
on 20 Nov, 2017 15:43
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The DIY route is awesome and another reason for all of us to consider the 1GZ as and option.
When searching around for mount kits did you see the KS Racing brand for sale on EBAY? (YES EBAY) I know what you might think but apparently the E36 m3 guys say they are perfectly fine for swap and are decent quality.
[smg id=9418 type=full align=center caption="!B)D K7!BGk~$(KGrHqF,!jMEv1+0!cLyBML2iFQyTg~~ 12"]
I don't know anything about that kit but I don't really see how it would line up. And I assume you will need to run that god awful Tech2 hood.
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#11
by
largeorangefont
on 20 Nov, 2017 15:51
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Nice work so far. Interested to see how this turns out.
I don’t get why go to all the trouble when a V8 drops in, is lighter and makes more power, but anything is a upgrade from 3 blown rotories
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#12
by
04G35S
on 20 Nov, 2017 15:57
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Nice work so far. Interested to see how this turns out.
I don’t get why go to all the trouble when a V8 drops in, is lighter and makes more power, but anything is a upgrade from 3 blown rotories
LOL! Too each their own, but a couple reasons I went 1JZ:
1. I have driven a LS1 RX7 and was not impressed at all. I know there is a ton you can do to them but I have been an import guy my entire life and sticking a domestic V8 in this car just did not work for me.
2. It is not lighter nor makes more power than a 2/1JZ. Do your research. There is a guy on RX7 Club that has corner balanced a 2JZ, LS1, and Rotary car proving that the weight difference is not much over the rotary. The V8 came within pounds of the 2JZ. I wont get into the power comment, you sneeze and you make 500 wheel on a JZ, but it is the same with a LS.
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#13
by
04G35S
on 20 Nov, 2017 16:05
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Finally have time for an update (this all happened months ago).
Go the engine in and it was time for the most time consuming part, plumbing the engine and fabing my custom V-Mount coolers into front mount. Also did APR head bolts and refinished the block. In this time I skipped photos a lot, everyone will fab things in difference ways. I decided to keep the stock R1 oil coolers so I added a remote oil filter, deleted the OEM oil cooler, and plumbed all the coolers with -10an lines. Also built a down pipe and A/C Delete bracket.
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#14
by
largeorangefont
on 20 Nov, 2017 16:09
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Nice work so far. Interested to see how this turns out.
I don’t get why go to all the trouble when a V8 drops in, is lighter and makes more power, but anything is a upgrade from 3 blown rotories
LOL! Too each their own, but a couple reasons I went 1JZ:
1. I have driven a LS1 RX7 and was not impressed at all. I know there is a ton you can do to them but I have been an import guy my entire life and sticking a domestic V8 in this car just did not work for me.
2. It is not lighter nor makes more power than a 2/1JZ. Do your research. There is a guy on RX7 Club that has corner balanced a 2JZ, LS1, and Rotary car proving that the weight difference is not much over the rotary. The V8 came within pounds of the 2JZ. I wont get into the power comment, you sneeze and you make 500 wheel on a JZ, but it is the same with a LS.
Exactly, to each their own.
Those 3 cars weren’t quite the same (that would probably never happen anyway), but close enough. By the time you add the supporting parts to make 500+ WHP the JZ car is heavier, but not by a wide margin.
I don’t know how you weren’t at least impressed by the V8, if by your own admission it makes the same power and is within pounds. But some cars are built much better than others.
This is not directed at you, but the idiots that whine and cry about the V8 ruining the car are the same ones that drool over the 1JZ/2JZ swaps that are demonstrably worse than the V8 for weight, weight bias and CG.
Again, good progress so far, it should be nice when you are done.
Quick question- is the CD009 gearing ok for use with 1JZ/2JZ and the 4.10 rear gear? I suspect it might be, but it totally sucks when used with an LS and T56. A rear end gear change is needed to a 2.73 rear gear to make the car driveable.