So around spring of '17 I was in bad need of new tires. The Sumitomo HTR Z III were 7 years old and while not totally terrible in the dry at this point they were down right scary in the wet.
I had asked around about what size to get and LOF and Blue t2 were quite helpful in getting the sizes sorted.
The car originally had Falken 615's when I bought it and they had gone hard. It's wasn't terrible as I was in Hawaii at the time so I had a little experience with the 200TW tire.
In the spring of '17 I had decided on a set of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R (name is far too long). 255/35-18 and 295/30-18. The grip was so good that within a month I had split the stock diff shifting from 1st to 2nd. LOVED the tires.
Fast forward through a year in temp controlled storage while I was stationed in Korea and the tires had turned into rocks. Worse than the 7yr old 300TW Sumitomos. In San Antonio on a 90° day I had actually slid through a red light. Fortunately, it had just changed and no one was moving but me.
Prior to the hardening I loved the tire. Great feel and predictable. The back was a little vague but only because my rim wasn't quite wide enough for the 295 tire so it wandered a bit.
The tires now have 8/32" tread left having started at 10/32". After a bit of back and forth, a lot of reluctance on Yoko's part, dodgy excuses and a very helpful Discount Tire employee I'm able to get a pro-rated store credit for the tires. They are being sent back to Yokohama for analysis and if they find a manufacturing defect(hardening I hope) I'll get a full price refund rather than 75%. 75% because min depth is 2/32". So the advertise 10/32" but you only have 8/32" of usable depth. All manufacturers seem to do this. Makes a refund in my case go from 80% to 75%.... :-/
I was pretty skeptical early on about getting anything back. Trying to swallow a $1400 waste of money with 2k miles and no racing or track time was difficult to say the least. Discount Tire honestly was pretty awesome about it. Yokohama, not so much but they may make thing right still. I won't be holding my breath.
Maybe I just got a bad batch and they are better now but I wouldn't buy them again. The manufacturer just tried too hard to get out of honoring their warranty.

Damn Blake! I haven't checked in a while.....looks fantastic man! That engine bay is so stealth!


Paint looks deep!


Yes a drop would look nice but the ride height looks like most pro-touring 60's mustang,  it will look lower in person no doubt.


Have you tuned it yet?

I have the samberg half moons that weld on to the eccentric bolts for the samberg/ronin subframe.

Let me know if you are interested.

BUMP,

ready to ship or open to trades Samburg mount kit. LS motor. etc.

thanks,

Quote from: 4packet on February 15, 2019, 10:08:21 AM

I'm running a DSS with the CV upfront and UJ on the rear. I agree it makes little sense, but seems to work OK. I seem to hit a resonance at around 150mph, but for only a very narrow speed range. If I cruise through it in 6th it's obvious, but full throttle in 5th and I don't tend to notice it. None of the drivetrain is mounted with NVH in mind, so it's hard to tell where some of the vibrations are coming from. I think I noticed a change depending on how tight I torqued the engine mounts in the early days.

I have the exact same setup, and I am having vibrations around 80-100+ mph with the Ronin 8.8 rear.  When viewed from the side, my U-joint angle at the diff is as close to zero as I could get it.  However, when viewed from below it is not.  Nor can it ever be, because the pinon center line is offset significantly toward the right side of the car due to the design of the differential case and the need for equal length axles.  So no matter what there will still be an angle at the differential U-joint.

I may be able to rotate the entire motor/trans to shift the tail housing to the right, but it's going to affect the shifter, the exhaust, and the trans mount at a minimum.  Even then the U-joint still won't be at a 0 angle.  I doubt I will be able to move the tail housing much more than 3/8" anyway.  I am starting to think the TR6060 is just not a good idea because it lacks a slip yolk.  If it had one you could use U-joints on both ends of the driveshaft and actually do proper complementary angles to cancel out the sinusoidal effects.

What is your trans tailshaft angle (up/down, not side to side)?  You may want to try shimming the pinion up.