August 18, 2019, 04:03:55 PM

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« Last post by digitalsolo on Today at 03:18:07 PM »
So, I managed to get my 2018+ intake manifold installed.    It's a little too close to the brace in a few areas, so I'll mark those and clearance it by about 1/4 (just make a little scallop) in those areas this week.   Here's the intake on:



It did move the throttle body forward about 3/4" which goofed up my charge pipe:



So I hacked it up and redid it.   I had to reclock on area and add in a little piece of pie cut in another, but she fits up better than before now:



I'll repaint it shortly.    The car does seem to pull a little better from 5500-6500 with this intake (which it is supposed to) but I can feel it run out of oomph at 6500 RPM pretty abruptly.   I'm going to look for an F150 dyno graph, but I assume it's my intake cams (which are truck parts).    I'll see if I can't swap to Mustang GT intake cams this winter, and if I do, I'll do the Boss 302R exhaust cams while I'm in there.

In the meantime, now that the cams work, I've been working on tuning it a lot.   I'm chasing the duty cycles for the VVT actuation a bit, it seems to be too mild or too aggressive with a fairly fine line between, and the PIDs are tough to really dial in, but it's getting better.   

I found the cause of my surge issues at low load;  it was going into idle control loops at 1700 RPM and <7% throttle, which I would get into on the highway occasionally and on slow speed surface streets constantly (and sometimes when leaving a stop).   I dropped that to 2.5% throttle (it measures the APP1 or DBW pedal input).   That completely cleared that up, as before it was going super wacky on the timing.   Nice and smooth now.

VE table is getting closer and closer as well, though I need to get the VVT dialed before I can really sort it in the 2500-3500 RPM range in particular, as 10-15* of cam timing is worth a half a point in lambda or more, so dialing the VE without the cam control proper in those areas is basically impossible.

I still can't get >3.9 psi of positive pressure (I have 4 psi springs in the gates, so that makes sense).   That said, I have my boost control active and I've validated that the output does activate the solenoid, so I need to figure out if it's a gate problem (diaphragm), a tubing issue (I don't think that's the case, as I just replaced them all) or a solenoid issue (maybe a bad sintered metal filter or internal issue).    Anyway, worst case scenario I'll swap to 10 psi springs, but I'd really rather have the controller working so that I can have boost controlled by gear/knob/etc.

My ECU goes out to AEM tomorrow for re-repair.   They covered shipping and RMA costs, so that's good, and were at least somewhat apologetic about the issue.   Hopefully this is the last time I have to deal with taking the car down for ECU issues.   As i said before, if this one has another issue, it'll be getting an MS3Pro Ultimate with the DBW addon, but honestly, I'd like to use the AEM as I'm getting at least somewhat comfortable using it.

Beyond that, I added some more wiring today;  new leads from the ECU to the trunk to run staged fuel pumps (trying to cool down my fuel by running less pump).   I ran some extra wires for future use;   I may try a PWM pump controller as well if need be, as that seems like a nice idea.   I also added a 12 gauge lead from the front ground bus to the rear battery lug.   I've not had any potential/offset issues with ground, but I figure it can't hurt to give it a better path.
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Build Threads / Re: Four's 1JZ swapped FD Project - Rx7upra
« Last post by digitalsolo on Today at 03:00:26 PM »
Those look nice.   Sakebomb?
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Drivetrain / Re: straightening tri-axe handle
« Last post by Gunnytron on Today at 01:40:50 PM »
A new handle is about $30.

Not to me it's not.

fair point about making a new one though.
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Selling a 1988 Mazda RX-7 FC3S Caged Roller

This car has tons of fab work done to it.
Was getting ready to swap everything over from my LS car to this but really need the money.
Car was being stored at a friends house under a car cover while I was moving. I guess car cover blew off (never found it) and leaves piled into it.

No rust!!!
Just surface rust on some items.

There is no body kit or tailights but I can include those from another car If needed for added price.

Located In Charleston, South Carolina

Rollcage, stitch welded chassis, custom trans tunnel cost $4500 alone
Coilovers were $3200 when new.

Selling everything below for $5000 obo

Chassis:
Pro-Am Legal Roll Cage
Stitch welded chassis
Tube Front
Front Bash Bar
Rear Bash Bar
Custom Transmission Tunnel
Rear Firewall
Fuel Cell Box/Mount

Steering & Suspension:
Stance Pro-Comp 3 Coilovers
AWR Rear Toe Rods
PBM V1 Knuckles
Modded s4 LCA
Extended Tie Rods
Aluminum Adjutable Steering Shaft w/splined quick release
Aluminum Steering Wheel
Custom Steering Shaft Mounts

Brakes:
All new hardlines
Stainless Steel Braided lines
4 piston Front brakes

Miscellaneous:
Tilton Pedal Box
Tilton Remote resevoirs w/line already routed
ATL Fuel Cell
Fire Suppression System

Probably forgetting some more
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Yep those will work well.
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Build Threads / Re: UK RHD LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« Last post by Gunnytron on Today at 10:45:29 AM »
I will look in to it, thanks.
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General Tech / Re: Replace Heater Core
« Last post by digitalsolo on Today at 09:41:49 AM »
3 hours or so total.
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General Tech / Re: SBF 91 FC pending Dyno
« Last post by darthmayndawg on Today at 08:31:30 AM »
255 HP / 275 TQ

Here's the Dyno results with everything I listed
By Advanced Engine Dynamix - Toby
Orange county CA

The timing issue mentioned prior Toby explained that the Mallory Hall Distributor I was using was wired backwards?
So the coil plugs were in reverse from the manufacturer but the rotation was correct... He said I was able to start and run but have an awful idle because of the fact the timing was 180 degrees (or almost 360?)

Either way the car runs like a champ and there's still things I have to do to it.
My File was too large to attach the sheet
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The Lounge / Re: Justin Samberg - Vendor Relation Challenges
« Last post by RotorMeThis on Today at 01:18:28 AM »
Soo.... Ronin Speedworks' own FD LSX mount kit in a few months? Never mind just saw the other thread.
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The car is back on the road and drives great. The trans shifts better than ever and hasn't leaked a drop (yet).

 While I had everything apart, I also put a new output shaft seal in. I had an occasional drip from the old seal and read somewhere that the OEM Magnum seal is all rubber and not particularly good. I took some measurements and found a National seal for a Ford C6 trans from Advance Auto for $10 that has a metal collar and the same inner/outer dimensions. Knocked the old seal out with a screwdriver and pounded the new seal in with a rotary engine flywheel socket  :)

If anyone is thinking about doing transmission work, I think it's more intimidating than difficult. You need a few specialty tools (2/3 jaw puller with DIY extensions, good duckbill pliers for snap rings) and you definitely need good organizational skills. I stapled down fresh cardboard over my entire work bench and drew a road map of the parts, making notes on the cardboard and keeping everything in order. Granted, I didn't tear down 1st-4th gears off the main shaft, which is more difficult. The thing that gave me the most grief was reinstalling the guide pins for the 5/6th fork and shift interlock (2 T40 torx bolts on top of the case). It takes a while to figure out what orientation each fork and the interlock need to be in before you can put the case back on the gears. Giant PITA. I think I pulled the case on and off at least 10 times before I got it right. And then you have to take it all apart again to clean the flanges and apply sealant. The Ultra Grey RTV I used on the main case/front plate sealed fine. RTV leaked on the main case to tail housing so I used Permatex anaerobic and it worked well. I don't know how easy it will be to remove in the future if I ever need to open the trans again, but I'm happy if it doesn't leak.

Since it was raining most of the day, I tidied up some interior stuff that I have been neglecting. I had to drill my steering wheel boss so that the clock spring tabs were at 12 and 6 o'clock so that it cancels when I straighten the wheel after turning. I also modded and installed the Integra speedometer, but wasn't able to get it working. I followed someone's method of soldering leads from the Integra screws to existing pads on the OEM Mazda cluster PCB. I soldered what I'm guessing is the signal wire (top left screw on Integra speedo) to the vehicle speed output pad on the OEM cluster and confirmed continuity to the White/Black round connectors. I have the MS3Pro wired to the White/Black connectors for tach, speedo output, oil pressure, and coolant pressure. So far, all the other gauges are working great except for the speedo. When I power on the car, the speedo reads 40MPH, regardless of what I set the ECU output to. When I turn the car off, it drops back to 0. The odometer doesn't go up even though it's registering 40 MPH. Really strange. Luckily I can see VSS displayed on the Perfect Tuning CANBUS gauge via the ECU. Any suggestions on the speedo wiring would be more than helpful!
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