so I should use cheap oil and change it after the 100 miles right?

Unless the gear or diff manufacturer recommends otherwise, that shouldn't be necessary.  The factories don't recommend changing the original gear oil for usually 50K to 100K miles.
Properly setup gears shouldn't produce much wear material, and new bearings should produce virtually none.
The magnets on the plugs will catch any ferrous material and keep it out of the oil.

The fit is pretty good - there are 8 brackets riveted onto the material (4 on each side) to allow for using SS zipties or worm-gear clamps. They are kind of clunky to get in place so I drilled out the middle 4 brackets leaving one on each corner and opted to use the clamps (couldn't get the zips to cinch securely). It fits snugly and provides a heat barrier for the adapter block and lines. The top line coming off of the adapter doesn't get as much insulation as the bends in the headers prevent it from sitting up any higher. Hopefully the brackets and bands don't create hot-spots on the headers leading to failure, but I don't see a way around it - maybe using safety wire or something?

Have you seen a significant drop in your oil temperature readings since adding this shielding?

I'm definitely taking this opportunity to fix a few of the weak spots in my swap.
Oil cooler lines and thermostat need to be improved.  The RX8 thermostat runs too hot, and the setup was never my favorite.  It was just too easy to do it that way at the time.  I don't think the RX8 cooler was draining back as the lines between the cooler and engine run above the top of the cooler.  I'll measure how much comes out of the cooler when I pull it out, that should tell me for sure.
It's disappointing that this engine failed so quickly.  I'm going to do my homework to find out if it was my fault or just bad luck. 
There's a couple places I could have caused an issue.  Oil cooler and lines, but also I had to swap the pan and pickup tube.  It's possible I put the wrong o-ring on the pick-up tube when I swapped them, or maybe the bolt holding the pickup to the pump came loose.  I don't think that's the case, but you can't learn from mistakes unless you identify them. 

How much oil was the car using per session? Were you tracking that? It was likely using quite a bit if you were running it hard.

I’d recommend running 1 full quart over full, and getting the Improved oil pan baffle for your F Body oil pan.

I agree on the -10 lines to the cooler.

It didn't use any oil over the two 30 minute sessions.  I wasn't pushing too hard as I was keeping my pace low to learn the track and car.  Only started picking up the pace toward the end of the last session.  I still need to check my catch can though.
I've got the Improved Racing pan baffle already installed.  I was thinking about adding the crank scraper and an accusump.  I'm looking into options for larger capacity pans too.  I wish I had been able to keep the LS3 Camaro pan since it held 8qts.

I'm looking into options for upgrades while I've got the engine out.  I've got a 418 stroker on the brain right now.  At minimum I think a cam is mandatory. I'm looking at sending my heads off to get ported, but it's a little hazy as how much benefit there is as most people just throw a set of aftermarket heads on probably worth it if I go with the 418.

Yeah, I saw that at PRI last year.     I’d have gotten one but I needed parts earlier than late June.   

I’m happy with my setup thus far though.

Hi guys,
As the title says, I'm looking for a Granny's TASA kit for 8.8 in a first gen.  I bought an 8.8 rear from him last year and now I want the torque arm but can't get ahold of him.  Been trying for months but he won't answer.  I have an '85 that I've been resto-modding for the past 2 years.  All new suspension front and rear, upgraded brakes, yada yada. 

So, anybody have one sitting around?