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#105 by mefarri on 07 Sep, 2011 21:28
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Now they work?... Looks good.
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#106 by Cryptic on 19 Sep, 2011 17:49
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more progress...
This weekend I removed the brake pedal, steering column, and rear bins from the donor car. Took that opportunity to shampoo the carpeting twice from the donor RX7... gross. Ahh, that new car smell now
I got all my battery accessories in. A Billet battery tray for my Optima Yellow Top, 200A circuit breaker, and Raptor battery terminals.
But before I can get the battery in I had to finish the sound deadening in at least to the rear bins. Again I am using Second Skin "Damplifier Pro". My ass was beat after being hunched over in the car all day and my finger tips were bloody from microscopic cuts installing this stuff.
My under dash wiring is 90% complete. I just need to put in my other pedals, dash, and HVAC stuff.
Installed the ABS, brake master cylinder, clutch master cylinder, and moved back the power steering reservoir to stock location with plans to install a cowled hood for more clearance for that and the intake. The relay box is now able to be in stock location with the power steering reservoir move back.
Engine bay today:
Also picked up some NRG hood dampers
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#107 by pakmanlsx on 19 Sep, 2011 17:57
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ooo looking good man...what kind of terminals are those?
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#108 by Cryptic on 19 Sep, 2011 18:15
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Raptor terminals. There are pretty inexpensive too!
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#109 by pakmanlsx on 19 Sep, 2011 18:21
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thanks for the info i was gonna go with stinger check out hifisoundconnection.com some good stuff there
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#110 by mefarri on 19 Sep, 2011 20:48
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Lookin good.
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#111 by BrownBoy on 21 Sep, 2011 10:45
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Build looks good man, keep it up!!
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#112 by FC3S Murray on 24 Sep, 2011 00:01
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Man your motor gets my heart racing! Beautiful setup, what numbers you shooting for?
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#113 by Cryptic on 26 Sep, 2011 13:04
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Man your motor gets my heart racing! Beautiful setup, what numbers you shooting for?
550 - 600hp to the wheels. Yes I know my diff is going to explode, I'll worry about getting a Cobra IRS when the car is running, painted, and has new wheels and brakes. I'm going to just have to lay off it for awhile. -
#114 by Cryptic on 26 Sep, 2011 15:26
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Nothing Epic this weekend
I'm a little disappointed with what I got done this weekend. I was lazy all day Saturday and felt like crap so I wasn't in the garage. Sunday, my family wouldn't leave me alone, when all I wanted to do was work on my car. The only mile stone was getting the Main Fuse Box mounted.
I bent of some steel with just a vise and a dead blow hammer to make a bracket to mount the Main Fuse Box to another stock bracket. Typically the Fuse Box hangs off the battery, which is no longer in my engine bay, so I had to get creative. Not sure how everyone else accomplished this.
Pull the 120A fuse and use right hand side for a place to screw down too.
Custom bracket screwed to right side of the Main Fuse Box and then connected to the stock bracket where relays used to be. YOU MUST PULL THE 120A fuse. It's not needed the way my harness is wired.
Fuse box cover on.
Didn't have a whole lot of choice where to go with this box unless I was going to start extending wires. Pretty much had to meet in the middle where it is now for wires to reach.
Loomed and taped everything... that's all that got done. (Boo!
)
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#115 by Cryptic on 03 Oct, 2011 16:35
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Getting so close...
Cutting the passenger side rear bin, to allow enough room for an Optima Yellow Top battery.
Cleaned up the plastic burrs. I was covered in black plastic bits.
Billet aluminum battery tray (from ebay) in rear bin. I like this one becuase their isn't metal near the terminals on top. It holds the battery from the base. It's an awfully pretty piece that will never be seen inside the bin, but I'll know it's there.
Finally got the battery, ground cable, and 200A circuit breaker. My alternator is 150A. I hope I made the right choice in amperage on the circuit breaker. The wire from the circuit breaker to the "starter>alternator>fuse box" is only 4 gauge which I know is a bit undersized for 200A. Ground and Battery>circuit breaker is 2 gauge. The 2ga is cutoffs from work used in telecom wiring (48v DC). Very stiff and hard to work with, but it was free.
Anyone else remember the moment of truth when you connected the battery (and closed the breaker) and ran around the car and made sure nothing was smoldering or on fire?
Finished my fuel lines while sitting on the couch watching the Packers stomp Denver Broncos. Fuel Pressure Regulator to a "T" -6AN connector. Finished the vacuum line from back on the intake (1/2") to the brake booster (3/8"). I got a plastic 1/2" barb to 3/8" barb reducer from the hardware store. It was sort of a bitch to find.
Rear crossover fuel line. (-6AN)
Clearance shots (lack there of) of rear fuel line.
Shortened the front fuel crossover line (-8AN) so it didn't arch so high. I got a lot better of estimating where to cut. Not to mention assembling these lines quickly. I got it down to a science now.
Progress shot of the engine bay (Oct 3, 2011)
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#116 by Bigblockquad on 03 Oct, 2011 17:21
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Nice build. Gotta ask, what's the hood clearance with the 102 TB and the front crossover line?
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#117 by Cryptic on 03 Oct, 2011 17:26
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Nice build. Gotta ask, what's the hood clearance with the 102 TB and the front crossover line?
Without the crossover line the hood touches on the LSX-R lettering... Hood almost closes, even after cutting the middle hood bracing.
Add the intake pipe and hood touches there first. I didn't try making more cuts to bracing. It might work.
My plan is to run the cowl hood and not worry about it anymore.
See this thread. http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7475.15
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#118 by digitalsolo on 03 Oct, 2011 19:37
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Why do you have crossovers on both ends of the intake?
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#119 by Cryptic on 03 Oct, 2011 20:03
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No real reason... I like the look. I had the parts on hand becuase my direction changed.