Shorttrack?s FC / LS1 Dry Sump Build

• Shorttrack?s FC / LS1 Dry Sump Build by shorttrack on 31 May, 2010 20:36
• 
   This was a fairly conventional track day/ street car build started  in Jan 2009.  I did not record a lot of detail because many things I did are/were well documented by others.  I never thought that would all disappear.   The main features that are not common are the radiator/intake and the dry sump   The car is now on the road and the dry sump and cooling systems seem to be working well.  I will post some things as I am able to round up the details and photos.  I would like to thank all the forum members who have and are still posting a ton of great info.
  
   The car is a 1989 GTU with the following mods 
  
  2002 Fbody LS1 rebuilt with Patriot heads and cam and pushrods
  Poorboy headers with 2.5? dual exhaust and magnaflows
  SCP 3 stage dry sump pump, Coleman 10 Qt tank (Standard circle track racing parts)
  Walbro 255 fuel pump
  Hinson engine mount and modified Hinson trans. mount
  T56 trans 
   Alternator relocated to pass side w/ Rockytopprer bracket
  Battery relocated to Passenger side storage bin
  Front calipers upgrade to Tll 4 piston units
  K Sport coilovers
  Tll Diff and pinion snubber bracket  per Ray
  Poly bushings,dts eliminators
  245/45 17 on Mustang  GT wheels
  Speedway radiator layed back to clear DS and allow custom CAI
  Corbau GT seats with RCI 3? belts/harness and harness bar
  Race beat front and rear bars
  Areocatch hood latches
  
• #1 by sciff5 on 31 May, 2010 21:11
• Deff would like more info on the dry sump system. A writeup and cost associated would be awsome. The oiling system is really the weak link with the ls1.
  
  
• #2 by RTRx7 on 01 Jun, 2010 02:11
• I would also like some information on the dry sump and associated costs.
• #3 by Cman on 01 Jun, 2010 11:22
• Looks good Dave !!!
• #4 by digitalsolo on 01 Jun, 2010 11:25
• Quote from: RTRx7 on 01 Jun, 2010 02:11

  I would also like some information on the dry sump and associated costs.
  

  
  +1.    I'm perpetually considering a dry sump.   Better oiling + more power =
  
  I sometimes think I spend too much time with race vehicles.   
• #5 by RTRx7 on 01 Jun, 2010 11:51
• You can never spend too much on a race vehicle. 
• #6 by shorttrack on 01 Jun, 2010 16:07
•  Dry Sump System.  This car is intended primarily as a track car with limited street use.  From bad experiences long ago I just knew I would be more comfortable with a Dry Sump.   I will give some details on this including some costs because the main goal was keeping the cost down and of course durability.
  The 3 big issues were mounting the pump, driving the pump and locating the tank. 
  I thought  that anything I could adapt from circle track racing would be well tested and affordable   There were a lot of used DS parts on Craigs list and Ebay  I picked up a used Stock Car Products 3 stage pump with a small block chevy mounting bracket,  10qt tank and all the lines for $300.00 on Craigslist. It was an older pump but had only about 1 full season on it. I disassembled and inspected it and it is truly in very good shape.  It turned out that the pump I have was an early design that did not have oring seals between the body sections.  The recommendation was to use a very thin film of silicone between the sections. I was originally going to mount the pump in the A/C location so I reversed the ports relative to the mounting bracket and later change it back.
  
   
• #7 by shorttrack on 01 Jun, 2010 16:15
• Driving the pump inexpensively was the most difficult issue. The ATI damper used on the ASA setup is a great quality piece but more money than I wanted to spend.   The plan was to switch to a damper that had the 3 bolt pattern to allow the use of a standard SBC drive mandrel.  All dampers I found were imported and the sellers had no specs on them.  Not all the dampers had a flat area around the 3 bolt holes to seat the drive mandrel (do not be deceived by the photos they use in ads I found companies that showed an real LS1 damper but changed suppliers and the current product looked nothing like the photo) In the end I bought a Professional Products # 80032 damper for $90.00 at Summit that had the 3 bolt holes and a flat surface.   I had Jones Racing Products adapt a big block chevy drive mandrel to my center pilot diameter and bolt circle for about $320.00 including a drive gear.  The pilot size and bolt circle are not standard to any application I am aware of.
• #8 by Yarp on 01 Jun, 2010 17:25
• I'm jealous.
  Seems complicated though.
  I wonder if you could use one of those toyota electric PS pumps for a dry sump system.
  The petroleum would prolly ruin it though.
• #9 by shorttrack on 01 Jun, 2010 18:10
• All I can tell you is it was a hard pull when I primed it w/ a 1/2" drill and the scanavge stages kicked in!
• #10 by shorttrack on 03 Jun, 2010 18:01
• I was going to mount the DS pump in the A/C pump location. The bracket would have had to bolt to the side of the block.  I finally decided to keep my A/C option opne and use the mounting holes on the front of the block in the alternator location. This was simple using the alt bracket as a fixture to drill a mounting plate. It now mounts like did on the SBC and the belt alignment is working well. 
   I used a $165.00 rocky topper alternator relocation bracket from ebay. This put the alt. in front of the pass side head.  Again the belt alignment seems good.  At $175.00 this bracket is pretty inexpensive but a little fussy as you have shim it with washers.  The instructions are pretty clear I just had to measure a lot of washers for thickness to find what I needed.  I am happy that I still have the option to put the GM A/C  system back on the engine.
  
  
  
  
  
• #11 by Aaron Venable on 04 Jun, 2010 16:20
• OOOhhh, that is the SEX!
   
   
  love the car, but pleeeasse put some better looking wheels on it
• #12 by sciff5 on 04 Jun, 2010 17:12
• For 150$ you cont do better wheels wise. I run the same ones and they look pretty good.
• #13 by shorttrack on 04 Jun, 2010 18:09
• Looks like I paid too much    I have 2 complete sets.  $175 for 1 set in good shape w/ 15% rubber  and $200 for a set in mint condition w/ 50% rubber.  I like the look and I think they will hold up for track use and not too heavy.
• #14 by shorttrack on 04 Jun, 2010 18:27
• Quote from: Aaron Venable on 04 Jun, 2010 16:20

  OOOhhh, that is the SEX!
   
   
  love the car, but pleeeasse put some better looking wheels on it
  

  BTW how big are those tires on you car?