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Author Topic: Project Sleep-R - Bedlined 79 RX7 Turbo 5.3 fun  (Read 39192 times)

Offline Burntz

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Project Sleep-R - Bedlined 79 RX7 Turbo 5.3 fun
« on: July 26, 2011, 01:41:22 AM »
Beginning


Out!

Rust repair near stock battery mounting location

And painted along with sway bar and crossmember

Explorer 8.8" Disassembled and heading off to get the offset side narrowed and centered

Axle length difference



Engine finally fully assembled/painted/ready to drop in:
‎*10066034 - 4 bolt main block bored .030 over (GM crate block)
*Speed Pro Hyperuetectic Flat Tops ~9.8:1 compression
*Hastings Moly Pregapped Rings
*Crank ground .010
*Comp Cams 12-239-3
-Operating Range: 1300-5600 RPM
-Duration Advertised: 262 Intake / 270 Exhaust
-Duration @ .050'' Lift: 218 Intake / 226 Exhaust
-Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .462'' Intake / .480'' Exhaust
-Lobe Separation Angle: 111
*Comp High Energy Lifters
*OEM 041 Heads, 64 cc chamber, 2.02/1.60 valves, Dual Valve springs
*Cleaned up the ridges inside the ports, and ported ever so slightly
*Speedway 1.5 Roller Rocks
*7/16 shouldered head studs w/ guide plates
*Cloyes Double Roller
*Edelbrock Performer Airgap Intake
*Edelbrock 600 carb (for now)
*headers pending till I get engine in car ha





And the transmisson:


22x19 Chevy Universal Radiator from speedway and the radiator mounts we fabricated:


And a teaser pic of my buddies. He's running a stockish 350 with a Saginaw 4 speed, original rear end
« Last Edit: September 06, 2017, 02:03:03 AM by Burntz »
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline dream36realms

Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #1 on: July 26, 2011, 08:53:18 AM »
sexy SA you got there
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Offline thetastelingers

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2011, 09:19:05 AM »
Great start!!  8)
wazzaaaaaaaaaaaapppppp!

Offline SSjon

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2011, 11:34:05 AM »
Sweet another SA and someone that knows the difference lol. Looks like your using the granny's mount kit. Nice SBC! I always loved to see them in Chevy orange.
1980 RX7 GS SA22C LSx build in Progress
L33 T56 8.8

Currently in the 12's, and getting faster every year!

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7003.0


Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2011, 11:18:25 PM »
The car itself is actually ... meh. Its got some pretty significant rust on the back quarters. I'll have to replace both quarters when I paint it. Does anyone sell new ones?

The rest of the car is fairly rust free, and straight. The front suspension is shot and will need replaced. I'm on the lookout for adapters to switch from the 4x110 to a Ford pattern (5x4.25?) for the front wheels, so I can run a matched set all the way around.

I still need to pick up a decent proportioning valve, and a bunch of miscellaneous stuff. Eventually plan on swapping to a smaller external coil distributor and running a 6AL system. Having a rev-limiter would be nice, almost floated the valves on this engine when it was in my trans am haha.

Yes, Grannys side adaptor brackets, oil pan, and th350 crossmember. Also just ordered a driveshaft from them (9" th350 to 8.8) and the 8.8" rear is getting narrowed as we speak.
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #5 on: July 27, 2011, 11:07:05 AM »
Still waiting on some various other parts, and Monday I will be running down to speedway to grab a bunch of other various parts:
Radiator Fan
Trans cooler and lines
Detent cable
Throttle cable
Fuel pressure gauge for carb
Oil pressure gauge -79 has a light, no gauge :(
Heat shrink tubing
Battery re-location kit

...? I think thats it lol. Well besides fluids and such.

Trying to figure out the offset I need for my wheels in the back too lol.
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline dream36realms

Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #6 on: July 27, 2011, 11:40:56 AM »
too easy man. your offset is well SA so wierd at best. I don't know how wide you plan on going in the rear but here is the run down. If you keep the front spindles without upgrading the suspension to the S2 GSL-SE crap you can run +20 with 225 series tires. if you upgrade the the other shiznit you can go with +35 225 series tires. This is up front. The max front can fit is 225 and that is with serious camber and toe in adjustment. 205 tires in the front can fit straight up but will rub so they need to be slightly tilted. the difference between the SA rear and the GSL-SE rear is 19mm each side. With our cars if you use the stock rear dimensions, you can run a 0 offset in order to fit a 245, however you WILL have some rubber coming out of the fender (about 10mm) It is actually impossible to run a tire bigger than a 235 under our model because of that shielding around the rear spring. Can not remove it because it is a structured piece. I am running 225 in the front with a offset of -15 which will make the tire stick out from fender about 2" and I am running the GSL-SE rear size on a 8.8 with 0 offset which will stick out about 2" I hope that info helps. let me know if you need anything, I got my grannies rear in today ;)
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Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2011, 01:16:11 AM »
I wouldn't say impossible... nothing is impossible :)

The 8.8 is supposed to be .5" shorter on either side I believe. Skinny tires in the front is ok, I would like some nice meaty slicks out back. Will have to see what I can stuff under their. Can always tub the car.
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline SSjon

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2011, 02:45:33 PM »
Relocating the spring mounts inwards would give you some extra tire clearance. I have not looked at mine to see how hard that would be to do.... I am gonna run the stock diff till it blows up, then I will swap to an 8.8 from a 95-01 Explorer for sure. Then there are other things like what gear ratio to get and stock posi or not. What is your rear diff setup those?
1980 RX7 GS SA22C LSx build in Progress
L33 T56 8.8

Currently in the 12's, and getting faster every year!

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7003.0


Offline dream36realms

Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #9 on: July 28, 2011, 05:30:01 PM »
since mine is about two weeks from being on the road. I can give you a feel on how the 373 rear feels with the T56. I will let you know if it is too tall or too short or just right. I was advised by the FC guys that would be best but we are talking about a 4" shorter driveshaft from theirs to ours so we will see.

Also, Once I go WB on my car, I will be running 315 rears and 275 fronts. Currently pricing out the parts to make it happen over the winter.
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Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2011, 02:06:57 AM »
Relocating the spring mounts inwards would give you some extra tire clearance. I have not looked at mine to see how hard that would be to do.... I am gonna run the stock diff till it blows up, then I will swap to an 8.8 from a 95-01 Explorer for sure. Then there are other things like what gear ratio to get and stock posi or not. What is your rear diff setup those?

mines a 3.73 with factory trak-lok. I feel like it should compliment my th350 nicely.
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #11 on: August 09, 2011, 11:09:00 PM »
I have made lots of progress on my 8.8" swap, and it is ready to install and go once I get it back assembled.

1st Step was to torch off the old leaf spring pads and sway bar mounts on the 8.8", then grind them smooth.



Then we carefully torched the brackets off as close as we could off the original differential. Since I didn't really give a shit about it, we torched into the housing a little ha. Oh well, axles/carrier are all good.

Then I spent about 5 hours worth of opening up the mounting points on them to fit the 8.8". Since I had that 3" section that was cut off from narrowing, I just kept fitting it to that until they all fit, and were even heights as well. 4 control arm brackets and 2 coil perches later, we were finally ready to fit the diff up into the car, install the brackets on the control arms, and start lining things up.

Now, I'm not expert, I'll say that off the bat. I'm going to explain the way we did it, which im sure is not the "professional" way of doing it.

We jacked the diff up under the car, and supported it. Using my angle finder, I got the back of the dif right at 90* to the ground. I also stuck it under the tubes to make sure they were square as well. I installed my driveshaft (with an inch of play for the trans) and bolted it to the rear end. This gave me my front to back.

To make sure one side was not farther forward, we measured center of the front hub to center of the rear dif axle hole like 10 times on either side. Always double checking. Also, we measured the downward slope of the driveshaft, trying to keep it at -2* for our pinion angle.

I'm not sure this was entirely accurate, as I didn't have the axles installed and wheels on it obviously to make sure the car was perfectly at ride height, but hell, I figure suspension is all about play, and that being a degree or so off on the pinion wouldn't kill me.

We also measured the distance between the axle flange and the outermost bracket to center the diff in the car. Once everything was set, we held the brackets toa the car still connected to the control arms and tack welded both sides. Then we continued to quadruple check all of our measurements, ensuring that we were still good.

As for the spring perches, we just eyeballed it mostly. They're pretty much parallel to the ground on top of the tube.

All in all, I think we got it pretty dam close. All our angles and distances were perfect. I suppose I'll really find out once I get it driving.




I took it with me to work, used alot of degreaser dilution and spent about 20 minutes powerwashing the crap out of the inside, and out. I immediately followed with lots of drying, and wiping as much down as I could with brake cleaner to get any remaining oils off and stall rust. Then I painted (minimal grinding, no primer, suckass job ha)



Now i'm going to drop it off at a place in town to get all the new bearings pressed in, and I'll let them re-install the pinion so I don't screw the crush sleeves up! ha.

Oh, and some comparison pictures before we really started into it:



8.8 Rear End - $150 used.
*31 Spline
*3.73 Gears, Factory Limited slip.
-Narrowed 3 inches, tubes welded, Anti-lock hole welded -$210
-Other short side axle - $55
-Replacement bearings/seals/crush sleeves - ~$100
-New output shaft yoke + install - $88
-Driveshaft - $290 from Grannys.
Time spent modifying it into the car = FML
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline SSjon

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #12 on: August 09, 2011, 11:22:12 PM »
Not bad at all!

Are you going to run a Watts Linkage?
1980 RX7 GS SA22C LSx build in Progress
L33 T56 8.8

Currently in the 12's, and getting faster every year!

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7003.0


Offline Burntz

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Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #13 on: August 10, 2011, 12:06:56 AM »
I said to hell with the watts linkage. Once I take the car out for a couple calm test drives, I'm going to fabricate in an adjustable panhard bar to keep things centered. Also going to fabricate something similar to granny's torque arm kit to keep things solid back their as well.
2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel - Cross country work machine. Deleted and tuned. 50mpg+
1999 Chevy Corvette - LG 1-3/4" Longtubes & H Pipe. Forgeline GA3's, H/C/I soon. Road course car.
1979 Mazda Rx7 - 5.3L / TH350 / 8.8" / Turbo. Ms3-Pro, E85.
PB Currently 5.97 @ 118  - 1/8 mi

Build thread ->http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=7441.0

Offline dream36realms

Re: Project Sleep-R (SA/355/th350/8.8)
« Reply #14 on: August 10, 2011, 10:00:59 AM »
looking good. I am also of the mind to say fuck the watts links. Once I cut mine and reweld them I may think differently.
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