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1989 GTU - 355 SBC - T5 - Non-Bubba Build by texfc on 14 May, 2010 14:11
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Let me start with the goals I have for this build:
1. Build a fun weekend car that a blast to drive, with power and handling.
2. Keep the OEM comfort items, AC, power steering, etc.
3. Stay within some type of budget (I have 4 in college now)
4. Do everything the right way, don't cut corners.
Looking at the other build threads, I have to admire guys like Graham/mayham/fx, who pay attention to the little details. You know they're on a budget, but they use a lot of ingenuity and craftsmanship. I may not reach that level of quality, but it's what I'm shooting for.
Ok, here is what I started with, a 1988 GXL that had a half completed engine swap, but the owner was moving and had to let it go. He was building it for bracket racing, so a lot of the items I needed had already been stripped from the car. It did have a lot of parts I needed, including a TII rear-end, the Granny's kit, aluminum NA hood, the big OEM brakes, and a Chevy 350. But, what a mess....
Not being a fan of red cars I went looking for a better FC. It's amazing how cheap you can find them if you look long enough. Found this white 1989 GTU on Craig's list. The motor was in boxes, but everything else I needed was there and in decent shape. The body has a few dings, but it's good enough to drive around in until I get time to do the body and paint. I like the white color and the rear spoiler really completes the look of the car IMO.
Some of my friends told me I should just leave the engine alone and run it. I figured it was just a stock 350, with a Holley intake and carb, but I didn't want a oil burning, worn out engine in the car. I tore the engine down, it was all stock, mid 1970's smog motor, 2 bolt mains. It was in decent shape, except that a few of the bores had some pitting from sitting up for a long time.
Took the block to the machine shop for a bore and hone, but ended up getting the works......ouch! They did a nice job. I went with some Speed Pro hypereutectic flat top pistons, which should give 10:1 compression with a 64cc head. The cam is a Comp XE268H, which according to their program should give a broad power band and make around 400 hp with the heads I selected.
When I checked the piston to valve clearance, it was below the .08 required on the intake valve on two of the cylinders. Looking at the pistons, the valve reliefs were very inconsistent in their depth and width. A quick trip to Wal-Mart for some Play-dough reviled where the valves were hitting. After masking off everything, I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to widen the eyebrow reliefs on the two pistons. Glad I took the time to check the clearance, another engine builder told me not to bother checking because the cam I'm running wasn't that wild.....
I wanted to go with aluminum heads to save so weight, and there are a lot out there for the Chevy that are reasonably priced. I decided on the Patriot Performance as cast 185cc runner, 64cc chamber heads. Here is one next to the old small valve, smog motor head. Definitely shinny.....
I was going to reuse the old rocker arms, but I was told that nobody put old stamped steel rockers on a new aluminum head, so I got the Summit house brand, which the local machine shop said they have had good luck with. Here's a shot of the completed engine.
Next, the transmission. I would love to have a T56, but it's off my budget. I found a WC T5 from a '89 camaro that had a Hurst short throw shifter on it. It had been sitting in this guy?s yard for a long time and was in need of a rebuild. I thought I would just get the rebuild kit and download the Tremec service manual and go to town......wrong! The printed manual doesn't show enough detail to see exactly how all those little parts fit together, and there are a lot of little parts. I found that Hanlon Motor Sports offer a DVD on how to rebuild the T5. It takes you step by step and shows close-ups of the little parts. Here is the T5 in pieces on my bench, notice the DVD player....hey, don't laugh, I've never rebuilt a transmission before..
Got it all back together in 3 evenings. End play on the main and counter shafts at 0. Shifter feels great, click, click, click though all the gears. Can't wait to get it in the car....
Next, the clutch, flywheel, slave. I hope to get to them this weekend........
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#1 by andrewb70 on 15 May, 2010 14:20
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Nice build. The T5s are nice shifting transmissions. If you end up blowing it, you can always upgrade with G-Force internals. Look at Howe or Quarter Master for the hydraulic TOB.
Andrew -
#2 by gadzooks on 15 May, 2010 15:35
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seems like T5's are becoming more popular lately
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#3 by Orracle on 15 May, 2010 16:04
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Cool build, the engine looks very nice. Can't wait to see her running.
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#4 by SBCFC07 on 14 Nov, 2010 20:39
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Killer looking small block, very nice, wish i had similar head, keep us updated!
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#5 by digitalsolo on 14 Nov, 2010 21:42
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Nice looking motor. Good work on the T5 as well. Be nice to it and hopefully you won't have to revisit those assembly skills.
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#6 by texfc on 16 Jan, 2012 17:22
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I thought I should update the build thread since I've made some progress lately.....sometimes real life gets in the way
I decided to get the engine running before i went any further, to see if I was going to have to pull the engine back out. Connected everything up temporary, don't laugh, it's just temporary! Added both the Comp Cams additive and the Joe Gibbs break-in oil.
To my amazement, it started right up! Ran it for 20 minutes at 2500 rpm for the break-in. Here is a short video of a test run the next day:
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#7 by atli126 on 16 Jan, 2012 18:42
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sweet i run a t5 behind my 5.3 lsx swap, i can provide a sweet list of what you need to make it happen... do you have a bb bellhousing yet?
Originally Posted by atli126
http://www.howeracing.com/p-7754-imp...ck-clutch.aspx
LS series T5 installation parts list:
Bellhousing casting number 3899621
Stock LS1 or LS6 flywheel, pressure plate and clutch
Pilot bearing GM part #12557583
Howe racing hydraulic throwout bearing #82870
2 short hard lines to get you out the bellhousing.
3/4" or 7/8" master cylinder
fork (pioneer PN# CF100, GM 340278 & 14066235)
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/showthread...90-Vert/page23
This is a very helpful thread so I thought that I would throw this in here as well...
Keisler now has an LS motor depth 621 Bellhousing that is going for around the same price as used original bellhousings (Priced via ebay).
http://www.keislerauto.com/gm/gm-par...ypage_acc.html
Just another option in getting your old school Transmission behind the LSx motors.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/1069277-5-3-t5-2.html -
#8 by texfc on 17 Jan, 2012 13:47
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Here is the clutch set up. Flywheel is a L88 type (15.9 lbs.) Clutch is a Zoom OEM type 10.5 inch. Bell housing is a casting # 3840383 (GM part # 3858403) "straight up" type from a mid 60's car. Fork is a AC Delco 3870001 shortened 1 1/2 inch. Slave is a Wilwood pull type and the Master is the Wilwood 7/8 inch from the Hinson kit. In the car, the setup has a definite "over-center" feel in the clutch pedal. I need to fab a bracket to allow the slave to pull the fork at more of a 90 degree angle. That should help the feel some. I also could have gone with a 3/4 inch master. It works well enough for now, I'll leave the fine tuning for later.
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#9 by texfc on 17 Jan, 2012 16:25
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Here is the radiator install:
Radiator - Summit 380328 27 x 19 5/8 inches
Fan 97-98 Lincoln Mark VIII two speed fan
Brackets made from 2 x 1 1/2 aluminum angle tig welded on by local shop.
Mazda radiator rubber mounts split and slipped over 1/4 inch id vacuum hose to make isolators for the mount brackets.
Radiator filler neck removed and welded shut to improve clearance.
Radiator top cover fabricated from .040 aluminum sheet, clears hood by 1/4 inch.
Frame rails drilled and tapped for 1/4 - 20 bolts from brackets.
Fan shroud trimmed 1/2 inch with table saw to reduce depth of mounted fan (blades are still 3/8 inch from core)
Fan shroud mounted to radiator with 1/4 x 1/2 inch aluminum flat bar drilled and tapped for 8-32 screws to attach to the top and bottom frame of the radiator.
Disclaimer: I got this idea from the FD guys. Don't know how it will hold up when the car actually hits the road.
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#10 by gadzooks on 17 Jan, 2012 18:29
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
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#11 by texfc on 17 Jan, 2012 23:04
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
What problem did you have with the GM bellhousing? -
#12 by Jarhead Steve on 17 Jan, 2012 23:22
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sweet build! Definitely nice for a SBC/T5 setup.
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#13 by gadzooks on 18 Jan, 2012 18:44
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that is almost exactly the same clutch setup as I have, same fw, clutch and pull slave. The only differences are I switched to a Lakewood bellhousing when I had trouble with the OEM one, and I have the Granny's fork with a stock master
What problem did you have with the GM bellhousing?
It was beat to hell, multiple helicoils, center alignment hole was very loose; it left scorched marks on my flywheel and caused vibration. It was just that particular one, but I wanted a guaranteed solution, and liked the extra safety of 3/16 hydroformed steel -
#14 by Greenwood on 18 Jan, 2012 19:36
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very nice. Where did you get those valve covers from?