FD S&W cage install

[SH4DY]

Starting to look at fabbing up a roll bar for the FD but not having much luck finding dimensions on the websites. Most of the FD units I've seen have the main hoop bolted to the floor pan but knowing how thin that metal is I would rather weld it to a plate on the frame rails so the hoop would need to be wider. I have a friends NA Miata in the garage right now and the hoop is wide enough to hit the frame but I think the roof line contours are off.
So, I'm wondering if the main hoops from other cars may work.
You can buy a generic 8 point "Jegster" kit in 1.75" .120"DOM for $250 shipped or I'm looking at close to $600 for the weld in 4 point from Autopower. I bought a 16' stick of 1.75" .120" DOM pipe for my subframe and it only cost $90 so I know they are charging a ton just to bend it.

Thoughts?

EDIT: https://swracecars.com/store/Mazda-RX7-1993---1996-10-Point-Roll-Cage-OSCARItem_38=11-5552.aspx it looks like you can get a 10 point from S&W for under $700 shipped

[babillaracing]

If you go sw route lmk how is the fitmen. Thanks

[SH4DY]

Should be here Monday. Went with the around the dash option.
http://www.cincystreetscene.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54852 <- came across this which helped me make up my mind

I'll be taking lots of pictures during the install

[babillaracing]

Should be here Monday. Went with the around the dash option.
http://www.cincystreetscene.com/forums/showthread.php?t=54852 <- came across this which helped me make up my mind

I'll be taking lots of pictures during the install

Sweet i be waiting for pics . Thanks

[SH4DY]

Cage came in today and I got started. The kit is designed to be mounted to the floor pan but I opted to secure the main hoop to the frame rail for two reasons: to allow for more seat room and well, its seems stronger and when the shit hits the fan I want strong.
I started by cutting and mounting the plates to the frame rail:



Next I measured quite a few times (found out one leg of the hoop was slightly longer) and cut. VERY snug right now - not even welded and stays put. I may take off a little to keep it from rubbing.



Pretty much all of the bends and notches are spot on except for the halo bar (will need to be cut down). A few things I've learned so far is that the factory seam glue WILL catch on fire, which can be a little disconcerting when it happens near fuel lines. That thin sheet metal in the hatch area sucks ass- definitely have to focus the heat on the mounting plate and then pull it down slightly to the thinner metal.

I'm not sure at this point if I'm going to install the halo bar or not since a 6-point will get me to a 10.0 or 135mph which is probably fine for this season. The only reason to go 8 point now is to avoid the hug pain in the ass down the road.

I'll update this as I go. 

[babillaracing]

Pretty nice. I am sold. I will be getting one also soon. Thanks

[SH4DY]

Didn't get much done last night. Realizing that that biggest PITA is getting the landing points prepped. Welding the actual bars of the cage together is easy but welding/ boxing in the mounting plates is an entirely different story.
Rear down bar landing points finished:



Cross bar welded to the main hoop:

[babillaracing]

Looking good man. Keep it up

[SH4DY]

4 points are in:





I may have run into a SNAFU with the harness bar - when sitting in the seat the top of the bar is right at my shoulders or slightly below which is money according to the IHRA/NHRA rule book (harness needs to be perpendicular or up to 20^ below).
There are two issues that I didn't account for though - the first is that the top of my shoulders are above the top of the harness slot in the seat so the harness would go down through the slot and then back up slightly to the bar. Not sure how much of an issue this is or how noticeable it would be since the back of the seat is damn near touching the bar.
The second issue is that if I wind up having to go to a lower seat mount for helmet clearance then I'm pretty much fucked because the bar will be slightly above shoulder level.
The one thing that isn't clear to me from looking at the rule book is if the harness HAS to go over the bar. If not, I can weld on a bracket (with plenty of gusseting) on the bottom of the bar to drop down the harness connection point and maintain perpendicularity.

Edit- looking over the paperwork that came with my harness, it says up to 30^ above the shoulder is acceptable. That makes me feel a lot better.
Thoughts?

[SH4DY]

A little more progress:

[SH4DY]

Cage is as done is it's going to be for now:







The seat (Procar/ SCAT) is a VERY snug fit between the door bar and the tunnel - if it was any wider I don't think it would fit. The flare at the top of the seat also made it a chore to get the door bar to land correctly, passing in between shoulder and elbow. I think I have just enough room to wrap the harness so I won't have to weld on any tabs. Only thing left at this point is to mount the harness.

[babillaracing]

How wide are those seats?

[SH4DY]

They were pretty wide up top. http://procarbyscat.com/seat/80-1790-61
 And they squeaked which pissed me off. I went with Kirkey's this time around.

[babillaracing]

They were pretty wide up top. http://procarbyscat.com/seat/80-1790-61
 And they squeaked which pissed me off. I went with Kirkey's this time around.

Cool, i want the seats to recline soo i will see what i come up with. Thanks