Dakota Digital troubleshooting help (Already read the sticky)

• Dakota Digital troubleshooting help (Already read the sticky) by pezfallout on 20 May, 2012 13:46
• I've been reading the other threads and trying out different configurations and I've hit a wall.
  
  Here is the current setup:
  
  '98 LS1/T56
  
  Power and ground work because the unit powers on
  
  Input has the Dark Green/White wire from the PCM
  
  Output 3 has a wire running straight to the Yellow/Red wire of the speedometer input bypassing the dash harness to eliminate it as a point of failure. (I wish I could've bypassed the previous owner as a point of failure...)
  
  The speedometer ground (Yellow/white) has a direct wire to ground. (Same reason as Output 3)
  
  Dip switches are ON/ON/OFF/ON.
  
  
  I don't know what else to try. Anyone have any pointers?
  
  EDIT:
  
  In case you're wondering... if you have the electrical service manual, I got my cluster wire information on page C1-3 and the X Connector look-up in the back. The Green X-14 wire becomes Yellow/Red (VSS/Speedo input) and the Orange wire becomes Yellow/White (Speedo ground).
• #1 by nzgreenfox on 20 May, 2012 22:36
• you have made a few errors I think. you must follow the thread
  
  
  
  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=192.msg1576#msg1576
  
  to the letter.
  
  
  
  Let us know how got on.
• #2 by pezfallout on 21 May, 2012 04:01
• Thanks for the reply but that post doesn't apply to my situation and I've already looked at it. First, mattster03 is using an LS2 and the raw VSS signal, so his wire colors and DD dip switch settings are different. Second, I'm using the same settings "spd" in the same thread whose speedo is working: Post-PCM VSS output wire on the DD input, dips set to ON/ON/OFF/OFF. I have the green X-14 wire bypassed because it doesn't exist in my car (previous owner) and have the DD plugged straight into the speedo. I'm getting zilch.
  
  I wish I had an o-scope or something because this is getting tiresome. Anyone else have any ideas?
• #3 by Plex on 22 May, 2012 01:32
• Mine is set output 2, OFF/OFF/ON/ON if I remember correctly... GTO LS2 though so it might be different...
  
  
  
  
  Hope that SOMEHOW helps? 
• #4 by mattster03 on 22 May, 2012 11:54
• My writeup was written for LS1, others have added info for LS2.  I have many PM's telling me that the setup I have written if followed perfectly will work.
• #5 by pezfallout on 22 May, 2012 14:32
• I will just go ahead and say it: I've used your method, I've used the others I've found, like Granny's on the tripod site, and it didn't work. I'm looking for troubleshooting ideas beyond that. I've double and triple checked the wires to and from the devices. I'm not saying your write up isn't correct because it's obviously worked for a lot of people but something else is wrong with my setup. I've triple checked the wire for the correct color, pin and continuity for the '98 ECU.
  
  I was just polling the audience for any insight someone might have but there just seems to be a broken record of no one is actually reading what I wrote and just saying to look at your write up. I'm getting a hold of a function generator and oscilloscope to check the speedometer function and the output from the ECU (and the VSS). If anyone has any other ideas I'm all ears... just please don't tell me to follow the guide because that horse has been beaten to death. lol
• #6 by mattster03 on 22 May, 2012 15:04
• Well, you certainly never said any of that in your posts, you said "that doesn't apply to my situation". Which is not true.
  
  Is your vss sensor plugged in?  Have you tried logging with your PCM to see if you computer is getting the signal?  Are you sure that you are tied into the proper "direction" for the yellow/red wire... aka towards the dash not towards the old rotary transmission sensor?  Are you tapping to this wire at X-14 or X-15?  Or literally right at the cluster?
  
  Also, do you know about the wire in X-14 that has to be grounded for the odometer and dash lights to work?  Everyone who swapps an LS into an FD looses this connection and needs to reground it... looks like it should be a black with blue stripe right at the cluster; pin 1E connector C1-01 .
  
  EDIT: in fact, reviewing all your information, i'll bet this is it.
• #7 by pezfallout on 22 May, 2012 15:34
• Yeah, the sensor is plugged in. I've seen sillier things so it was the first thing I checked when I had it on a lift for an oil change. As far as the direction of the wire, it's currently tied in directly at the cluster plug. I cut the yellow/red input (Pin 3C, plug) and yellow/white ground (Pin 3A, plug), what the wiring service manual showed as the VSS circuit path to and from the rotary ecu on page C2-5 and patched the yellow/red directly to the DD on Output 3 and the yellow/white to a tested chassis ground.
  
  I feel like I'm running out of things to troubleshoot. Either my speedo is bad, the VSS is bad or the DD is bad. The DD powers on but that's all I can verify with it. The VSS and PCM output/DD output I'll have to wait until I get my test equipment in for and lift the rear wheels off the ground. I suppose I just hoped someone might throw something off the wall out there that they'd experienced and it would make my life a lot simpler. lol
• #8 by mattster03 on 22 May, 2012 15:36
• I just edited my post, so I don't want you to miss this line:
  
  "Also, do you know about the wire in X-14 that has to be grounded for the odometer, speedomter & dash lights to work?  Everyone who swapps an LS into an FD looses this connection and needs to reground it... looks like it should be a black with blue stripe right at the cluster; pin 1E connector C1-01".
  
  I'm pretty sure this is your solution.
• #9 by pezfallout on 22 May, 2012 15:51
• Quote from: mattster03 on 22 May, 2012 15:36

  I just edited my post, so I don't want you to miss this line:
  
  "Also, do you know about the wire in X-14 that has to be grounded for the odometer, speedomter & dash lights to work?  Everyone who swapps an LS into an FD looses this connection and needs to reground it... looks like it should be a black with blue stripe right at the cluster; pin 1E connector C1-01".
  
  I'm pretty sure this is your solution.
  

  
  I'm assuming it was either grounded by the previous owner or finding a ground somewhere because the dash lights illuminate (actually just replaced some dead bulbs behind the tach) and the odometer lights up (trip is pegged at 0, miles don't move but it lights up). It's too late tonight to get in there to verify (in Spain) but when I get in tomorrow afternoon I'll put a fluke on it to see what I've got. This was the kind of random personal experience I was hoping for and I appreciate it!
• #10 by mattster03 on 22 May, 2012 15:57
• Quote from: pezfallout on 22 May, 2012 15:34

  patched the yellow/red directly to the DD on Output 3 and the yellow/white to a tested chassis ground.
  

  
  Ok.  One more guess.  I am not 100% sure on this one, but I don't believe the yellow with white wire is supposed to be grounded; the pin 3A you were referring to.  From the diagram I can see why you thought it should be done, but it didn't have to be and possibly shouldn't have been grounded.  Not sure if this could affect anything, but it's very possible.
• #11 by rxweelo on 23 May, 2012 21:09
• what are the red and green status LED's doing?  they can be usefull for some diognostics, first page of the manual.  Red "on" power green "flashing" speed signal present, might be a place to start as well. 
• #12 by spd on 25 May, 2012 20:51
• Yes: definitely check to see if, upon putting the car in motion, you are getting a flashing green light at the DD box
  
  Flashing green indicates a speed signal is being picked up by the DD.  So you'll at least know if you have an input problem or an output problem.
  
  
  
  
  Now, assuming the box -is- flashing green when car is moving: why are you using OUT3?
  
  (With DIP #3 set to "off" , the DD box, at OUT3, outputs a 4000 ppm signal.  Not what we want.)
  
  
  Leave the dip switches as they are (ON ON OFF OFF) and try moving your output to OUT1
  
  
  
  Let me know how that all goes
• #13 by Pez on 25 May, 2012 21:02
• was your chassis originally manual or auto?
  
  Which pin on the PCM is the grn/wht going to? It's connected to DD innput, correct?
• #14 by Onisamu on 29 May, 2012 19:52
• So my issue is almost identical. Been following this thread to see if it answers my problem. My DD is wired up according to the sticky (Pez did all my wiring). Everything used to work just fine and then slowly my speedo and tach would fritz out sporadically. Now they don't work at all. I swapped gauge clusters and got my odometer back and tach for a day but lost the tach again. Never got speedo back. My DD flashes green as soon as I start moving and today out of the blue my odometer started ticking numbers for 13 miles and then stopped again. I also have to unhook the battery every few days to reset the pcm as my engine starts running like crap and I lose a lot of power on WOT. Almost feels like timing is off or fuel shortage. After the reset it's fine again.
  Lastly, awhile back I had an overheat issue when my heater core dumped coolant in my passenger floor board. This led to dash removal, cleaning, and reassembly. Everything else works fine. Any thoughts?