Many of you are familiar with the Driveshaft Shop, because they sell axles for all kinds of CV shafts that are used on the RX7s. They make everything from upgraded bars, all the way to complete kits that include everything from the inner stubs, CVs, bars, and outer CVs. Frank and his crew do some amazing work.
In addition to doing CV axles and replacement driveshafts, the DSS can also do custom work. Most of you probably don't know this, but before I was playing with FC RX7s, I was (and still am) into muscle cars. I have a 1970 GTO, that I've owned since I was 15, which is fully restored and have been featured on the cover of Popular Hotrodding magazine and in Car Craft.
Ever since I've owned my GTO is has had a high speed driveline vibration. The vibration has persisted through 3 different engines, 3 rear ends, three sets of tires, four driveshafts, two different brake configurations, and more headaches that I can count. After running down every possible driveline component the issue seems to come down to driveline angles. As you all know, the proper set-up for the transmission output shaft and the pinion shaft is for them to be parallel. The GTO uses a 4 link rear suspension design with a solid axle and I have adjustable upper control arms, which makes changing the pinion angle relatively simple. The problem is that my car is lowered, a lot. It's hard to say how much lower it is than stock, but I would say 3" in the front and 4" in the rear. What happens when this type of car is lowered that much, especially in the rear, is that the rear starts to ride higher in the chassis than the output shaft of the transmission. So while I can make the front and rear working angles the same, the angles end up more (greater than 3 degrees) than desirable for smooth, high speed operation.
The solution is to raise the back of the transmission so the front working angle becomes less, and adjust the rear to match. The problem is that there is only so much room in the transmission tunnel. My transmission is already so high that the front slip yoke is only 1/8" from the top of the driveshaft tunnel, and the working angle is still too high.
I discussed my problem with Frank and he came up with a very elegant solution to address the problem. Instead of using a regular u-joint in the front, Frank suggested to use one of his 108mm CVs. A CV joint doesn't care about matching angles. They can operate at very high angles without issues. The upgraded 108mm CVs used by the DSS are rated at 8000lb/ft of torque, so durability is not an issue.
As of now there are no vendors that make a slip yoke with a CV cup already machined into it. The DSS took a Spicer 32 spline slip yoke and machined it down and TIG welded one of their CV heads to it. Here is the modified Spicer yoke:
The gold colored part is a cap that keeps the grease from leaking out the back of the CV:
This is a detailed shot of the modified yoke with the CV and front of the driveshaft:
Finally, a shot of the complete assembly. Interestingly, Frank was building a shaft just like mine for another project that had similar driveline alignment issues. The CF tube is probably overkill, but I wanted it to further dampen any driveline harmonics that might be present.
The reason that I am posting here is that I have read several people posting about high speed vibrations. This can easily be the result of improper driveline angles. Both the FD and the FC have non-adjustable rear diffs, so changing the rear working angles are almost impossible to adjust. Many of you are running T56 transmissions that use a 27 spline slip yoke. The DSS can easily perform the same modification on that style yoke and use a CV joint at the front of the driveshaft. A CF tube won't be needed because RX7 driveshafts are much shorter than the 54" driveshaft in my 1970 GTO. A 3" aluminum tube should be more than enough to handle any reasonable power levels.
Andrew