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#105 by digitalsolo on 09 Jan, 2011 00:26
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If it hit that piston at all, I might recommend yanking the rod to make sure the bearing, etc. are all healthy.
Really sorry to see that man, hopefully they take care of you. -
#106 by Silver87 on 09 Jan, 2011 10:43
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Take a look at the valvecover for any signs of contact between it and that retainer. I got a 30k LS2 and noticed the valvecover gasket on that side was hanging out a little so I pulled the valve cover to find this.
Then noticed some damage to the valvecover where it had been displaced and contacted the retainer causing a slight bend in the valve stem.
Which in turn caused this.
My case seems to be less severe than yours as my push rod is still true -
#107 by Silver87 on 09 Jan, 2011 10:50
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I am thinking that there is something very close to that part of the valvecover on the GTO and when the car is accidented from a certain angle it causes the valvecover to hit the retainer and bend the valvestem.
I got a new valve and valve guide. Dressed the damage to the piston as it was very minor, checked the rod at the crank for any signs of excessive play and measured piston to deck at TDC compared to other cylinders to make sure nothing was bent.
Hope this helps,
Mike. -
#108 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 10:54
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The motor comes apart.
A fair bit of dirt inder the intake:
Packed the intake ports, and cleaned all the dirt off:
Pulled the head:
Definitely had PTV unhappiness:
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#109 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 10:55
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Valve doesn't look all beat up, surprisingly.. and it's all there:
The 'high-flow valve gap':
Observations:
Can still see honing on all cylinders.
#7 Exhaust valve is wet with oil.
#7 Piston is much blacker than the other 3 on that bank.
#7 Piston is the only one with flaking up carbon.
All the other cylinders have a carbon ring in the bore at the top of the stroke
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#110 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 11:17
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Uh-huh.. BUSTED.
The passenger valve cover has NEVER SEEN OIL.
It's perfectly clean, not stained from oil AT ALL. It was replaced prior to the motor shipping, without question. Just great. They KNEW it was fucked.. son of a BIIIIIIITTTTCCCCCHHHHHHH. I wondered why that valve cover was so damned clean on the outside.
:ripped:
(Thanks to Silver87 for pointing out to check the cover!!!)
It's allll starting to make sense. That coil was busted upon arrival, also. I attributed this to shipping damage since the valve cover was fine.
And without a huge amount of damage to the piston, I bet the damage was external, i.e. physical impact to that corner of the motor. They replaced the valve cover because it was smashed, but missed the coil and the valve. -
#111 by Silver87 on 09 Jan, 2011 11:38
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Yup, just as I suspected.
Could have been alot worse. New valve, valve guide, pushrod and lifter and you should be back in business. -
#112 by bikedad on 09 Jan, 2011 11:49
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Have them reimburse or knock off half the price of the motor.
You could come out ahead here. They don't know what you know. You could fix this a heck of a lot cheaper than them.
Apply the difference to another go fast goody. LOL -
#113 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 12:38
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Yup, just as I suspected.
Could have been alot worse. New valve, valve guide, pushrod and lifter and you should be back in business.
Yeah, counting myself lucky (in a way) that it wasn't worse. -
#114 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 13:18
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Have them reimburse or knock off half the price of the motor.
You could come out ahead here. They don't know what you know. You could fix this a heck of a lot cheaper than them.
Apply the difference to another go fast goody. LOL
Last time they covered the replacement cost for OEM parts (coil, motor mount and bracket).. if they do the same plus labor, I'll be satisfied... comes up to $351.30 plus install, plus any other issues that may be found. Oh, the fun. The warranty is parts only, but this is damage that was hidden by them, so we'll see if that holds any weight or not.
I'm going to present the evidence, and see what they offer up. I don't want a different head unless it has the same miles or less than this one (I specifically bought a 13k mile motor and that's what I want because that [theoretically] means everything is almost new, and saved [ha] me time not having to tear it down and replace parts).
Looks like #7 intake is bent as well. Weee.. NOT.
Here's my theory:
Car was driving, so motor turning
Severe accident (was told front and rear damage).
During accident, something hit the rear of the drivers side valve cover.
-Coil is hit and broken.
-Cover is broken (I found unidentified pieces of aluminum on the motor when I received it)
-#7 exhaust valve is hit while it is closed, bending the stem
-#7 intake valve is hit and also bends the stem
Motor is running (or spinning at least since a 6 speed) and the rocker tries to open #7 exhaust.
Rocker pushes on the hat instead of the stem
Valve opens about half way, wedging itself in the valve seal, binding up
Pushrod gives way and bends
...and there we sit.
The yard replaced the valve cover, cleaned up 99% of the broken pieces, and sells it to me. Looking at the ebay photo, I can't see any damage but the angle is weak, funny, eh?
Sooooo.... I'll update the thread once I speak to them tomorrow first thing. I'm hoping they are stand up, so keeping the fingers crossed. -
#115 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 13:31
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The intake valve is bent, too:
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#116 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 13:56
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Today's Swap Noob Advice: No matter how insignificant, anything that makes you say "that's odd" means something and you need to investigate it fully. Pieces of metal on top of the engine? Suspicious. A brand new part? Suspicious. A damaged part on top of a brand new part? Very suspicious. Make sure to fully and completely inspect your pullout when you receive it. Take photos, LOTS of them. It will only help you later.
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#117 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 14:04
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I'd love a carfax of the motor... If someone wants to help me out, the VIN is 6G2VX12U26L827813. PM me if you can run a report for me. Thanks!
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#118 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 17:51
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Since I'm stuck on the rear and engine temporarily, moving on to other stuff...
Build Update:
LS2 Motor - Boxed up the driver's head, all rockers and pushrods to take to my engine builder tomorrow for repair estimate.
Steering Rack - Second coat of black done, once that has cured a couple of days I'll spray the gearbox with silver and clear.
Rear Subframe Brace - Second (and final) coat of black is on, looks good!
Miata Wiring - Laid out the Miata engine and dash harness and tagged most of the connectors, identifying "keep" vs. "cut".
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#119 by Wallyman on 09 Jan, 2011 17:55
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Heater Core - Looks good for a heater core inlet/outlet relocate to the passenger side. Plenty of room between it and the firewall, same at the AC and the blower. Need to figure out where to come out, I am almost thinking outboard of the AC connections. Inboard and you are into the engine. Will be tricky since the washer fluid bottle is there (tho my car hasn't had windshield washers in 8 years, so maybe I ought to ditch that??)
A little leaky (I had a smell towards the end of '09):
Underwater? This Car? Nahh.....
Plenty of room between the core and the firewall:
May route out in that open spot between AC and blower:
But that puts it into the washer fluid bottle (I would like a working washer system if possible).
Plus I need to keep in mind where the LS2 PCM is going to mount, which is likely in that area behind the AC. More playing around is required, but I am confident I can find a location that works and gets the heater hoses to the passenger side of the engine.
Calling it for tonight..
