island FD coming to the darkside!

[jessethedrifter]

figured since i posted an introduction, might as well start a build thread also.
So, had my FD since September 2003


So again from my introduction:

After 10 years of being faithful to the 13B, the time (mileage) has come to make that decision. Even getting past all the common rotary problems with rats nests, OE twin turbo issues, solenoids, random smoking from all kinds of places, even going single etc. I had to ask myself "Do I really want to overhaul this thing as often as i change my wife's timing belt?" Simply NO! Luckily I met "Exidous" on this forum while we were both stationed in Hawaii who had already turned to the dark side and had been there done that. He filled me in with all the details and benefits of the swap.

After searching for an engine online, I wasn't able to find any reputable company that would ship my motor to the islands or a company that would ship for less than $1,400-$1,600. Luckily I came accross a perfectly good running 01 Pontiac Trans AM WS6.

really low mileage

and a healthy motor

Convinced the owner to sell it to me for $6,500. Basically got the whole car for cheaper than what I would have paid for an LS1/T56 shipped It was easier to get my price since the car had a salvage  title from an abandon recovery on the marine corps base. No structure damage or accidents according to the carfax. Not that I cared since I had other plans for it. It's almost a shame to tear down such a good running car, but like exidous told me in a PM "it's for a better cause and it's going to a better home."

At this point I'm getting barraged by the rotary community calling me a traitor or saying "You're really going through with this?" or "that's sacrilegious!"  typical rotor head talk. blah blah blah. But after reading soo many good things on this forum, i just say fkem'

Car is in storage on base until all my goodies come in....and once my leave is approved
now we wait.


So far:
got my samberg kit from ronin

my headers from spoolin


my clutch hydraulics:

also picked up misc electronics: sourced my own stuff for battery relocation, dakota digital, OBD2 port etc.

waiting on:
- the group buy list to fill up for my samberg radiator kit
- samberg drive shaft and throttle cable bracket
- my monster clutch level 2 kit with 18lb. flywheel and speed bleeder
- my power steering kit and steeda handle with trans tunnel cover
- my leave to be approved

just for kicks i'm going to have the FD weighed in so i can get the before and after weight/balance to shut non-believers (rotorheads) down. it's myth busters time yo.
luckily i still have the dyno sheets from when the car was stock they can see the difference too.

Welp, again, looking forward to this swap and being apart of this awesome community. Thanks in advance for your opinions & guidance. 

[N2v8fcs]

look like you've got a good start.
Good luck with the swap.

[Exidous]

I approve this message.

Who's FD with the RPF1's?

Sad to see a firebird with 55k on the tic go but it's for a good cause.

[FC3S Murray]

Heck man you might get some nice extra $$$ from that WS6 body if you sell it. Be gentle taking everything out and it will help fund more LS goodies 
 
Welcome and have fun building your FD

[jessethedrifter]

look like you've got a good start.
Good luck with the swap.

thanks mang!

I approve this message.

Who's FD with the RPF1's?

Sad to see a firebird with 55k on the tic go but it's for a good cause.

the other FD has some pretty bad front end damage. according to the hobby shop guys the owner trying to fix it. i did notice his setup is pretty stock and it's an automatic so maybe he might wanna buy my rotary with manual trans with my PFC and stuff.

Heck man you might get some nice extra $$$ from that WS6 body if you sell it. Be gentle taking everything out and it will help fund more LS goodies 
 
Welcome and have fun building your FD

Yeah man, It's a shame since the car is in great shape. Only the clear on the paint is peeling, nothing else wrong. I'm going to try and see if I can find a Trans am fan to buy the whole rolling chassis first before parting out instead of crushing the car. If i didn't care I'd just cut that huge metal beam off the front so i can pull the motor through the front instead of underneath the car but i'm hoping someone wants to give the car a home first. It would bother my conscience if i didn't try first before taking a pretty cool car's VIN off the face of the earth. Thanks for the welcome!

[jessethedrifter]

Som the commander finally approved my leave YESTERDAY  so last minute notice i started today. better late than never 
took the car to be weighed in first to get the before and after. weighed in at 2,780lbs. with a 1/4 tank of gas. then got my state inspection so i won't have to deal with it for a year giving me time to tweak. and with the last 5 hours of the day, we pull.
one last glance at my rotors

gonna miss my A/C for a while...

here she comes! and with time to spare to clean up

going going

gone, but not forgotten

it gave me a good 10 fun years. but on to BIGGER and better things 
getting back on it in the morning. i swear if the hobby shop didn't close i'd still be tweaking right now.

[jessethedrifter]

parts came in too  today is a good day
shaft

monster clutch level 2 with 18lb. flywheel and speed bleeder. i like how neatly they package stuff

[Exidous]

2780 huh. I guess my stereo and tons of dynamat added about 200lb.

Keep the questions coming and I'll see what I can come up with.

Wish I could se the pics at work. :-(

Since I cannot see the pics I cannot tell if you've pulled the Mazda Subframe. If not, measure the front wheels with a measuring tape. toe and camber. That way with the Samberg frame you can get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

[jessethedrifter]

Keep the questions coming and I'll see what I can come up with.

Since I cannot see the pics I cannot tell if you've pulled the Mazda Subframe. If not, measure the front wheels with a measuring tape. toe and camber. That way with the Samberg frame you can get it close enough to drive to the alignment shop.

shit, too late LOL.

anyway, questions=

1)what size is the nipple on the brake master reservoir? gonna see if i can get a silicon cap tomorrow
2)which senders to pull from fd? i see a small one with a single wire near the rear rotor housing near the spark plugs for coolant and a LARGE one for oil but not sure if it's for the red idiot warning light or sender.
3)which tabs to cut off again? is it the ones on the sidewalls that supported that cross piece that can be unbolted?

i know i got a few more questions but i guess it'll pop up as tweak

[jessethedrifter]

got that old stamped rotary cradle out.
OEM vs. samberg

and it's in

really didn't get much done today. was mostly taking pics of rotary stuff and posting on craigslist to fund more LS swap goodies.

[Exidous]

The big one is single wire oil pressure sender.

The one on the front below the filler cap is coolant level.

The oil Buzzer is a single wire brown with a strip if I remmeber almost ten years ago. It's in the harness between the headlight and main fuse block.

As for the brake master port. I think 1/2" will work. Even if it's a little small silicon has more give than rubber.

The tabs are tac welded to the frame rails that you mounted the subframe to. They are different than the ones for the radiator with the big mount hole for the rubber grommet. (on the sway bar mount) I can't even remember what they were for. Stock IC mount maybe. They are located right in front of the LS alternator and a/c if it were installed already.

[Exidous]

I would almost recommend putting the stock subframe back in, rolling the car down to the paint booth and making that bay look perdy. No better time than now!

[jessethedrifter]

diff mount in

had to do some prying for the inner passenger side holes to align. other than that it fit perfectly wiithout having to ream those boltholes wider.

installed the wilwood clutch master from hinson

the length of the rod was JUST enough thread to reach the pedal mount. pretty much used the entire length of the rod in adjustment, but at least all the threads are flled. that sucker was flush.

funny, after posting on craigslist last night a guy called me today and told me not to sell anything because he wants ALL of it.
soo....

he's coming with a truck tomorrow to pick all of this up. what luck, now i don't have to try to jam it into my shed that i can't even set foot in anymore cuz it's soo packed. more LS $ for me 

[jessethedrifter]

welded these up today

nice tight fit, needed to file a couple of them down to get em' in tho. at least the car will be able to be aligned now. go back to work tomorrow. took leave for next week to pull my LS1 out of the trans am.

[Plex]

Been there man! I definitely took leave to do the 20V swap in my AE86 a couple years ago haha