October 22, 2019, 03:33:40 PM

Author Topic: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0  (Read 37303 times)

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #150 on: May 29, 2019, 03:41:39 PM »
Still my favorite life sized Matchbox car.

Thanks!

No matter how many angry vents or go fast parts go on it, there is still that matchbox look hehe. Car is rolling into the booth now, and I'm finally replacing the dated Sparco shifter for a billet piece. It's a good tall shifter, and is the GT style I wanted, but the design is prone to slip and the billet unit has weights and thread options for a really good shift feel to match the MGW.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #151 on: June 10, 2019, 07:18:58 PM »
Having some major clutch issues if anyone has an idea of what is happening.

New LS7 clutch and RAM lightened flywheel, replaced bearing and slave as well while everything was out. Have the Hinson modified MC and remote bleeder.

Clutch was sticking a bit with full disengagement not happening, so a bit of pedal adjustment was needed. However, after driving it from the shop where the install was done to the bodyshop, it has since lost all hydraulic pressure and fluid is going down. No puddles, or leaks can be seen but the pedal is right on the floor with no pressure pushing back  :(

I've done some searching and have found some possibilities but no real answers.
- This is normal for LS7 clutches and they just need 500miles of so of city driving type of use to build up that pressure
- Going with the first point, after the break in the pedal moves back up and most people are good then
- Clutch line is bad, my braided one has been okay until now but maybe?...
- MC or slave is bad, but neither show leaks in or out right now and the slave is new
- Air, it has been blead many times from the remote line but maybe I need to bleed it on the MC as well as the remote bleeder line

Any ideas? Anyone else have this issue on LS7 clutches?
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #152 on: June 10, 2019, 08:01:18 PM »
Have you tried my bleed method?
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Online Cobranut

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #153 on: June 10, 2019, 09:57:32 PM »
To get mine fully bled I used my mityvac to pull a vacuum on the reservoir for several days.
I'd go out after work each day, pump the vacuum back up and pump the pedal several times.
Eventually the pedal firmed up and works nicely.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #154 on: June 11, 2019, 11:57:14 PM »
Have you tried my bleed method?

I did, no luck and no idea where there could be a leak. The mityvac pulled bubbles but even when the bubbles stopped the pedal is still right on the floor. It's quite odd as it drove fine to the shop, and the last time they pulled some air with the mityvac the car was good for a day or so moving around the bodyshop. But now it's dead.


To get mine fully bled I used my mityvac to pull a vacuum on the reservoir for several days.
I'd go out after work each day, pump the vacuum back up and pump the pedal several times.
Eventually the pedal firmed up and works nicely.

On day 3 and still pedal to the floor, starting to think I'll have to flatbed it to the car show now this Saturday. The only difference from before the clutch swap is the remote bleeder line is now ziptied up toward the engine bay instead of under the car like ti was before which should make no difference. Brand new GM slave, possibly a bad unit?
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #155 on: June 12, 2019, 07:26:05 AM »
Sure sounds like a bad master or slave.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #156 on: June 20, 2019, 12:41:46 AM »
Opened it all up, after a lot of literal trucking around and minor damage to the diffuser... but got it to the shop to see what's wrong.

Both hydraulic lines leaking like mad.

I see Sikky has a remote bleed line for the FD at a good price (https://www.sikky.com/product/t56-speed-bleeder-line), but who is everyone using for the hydraulic slave line? It's been so long with my swap I don't remember where I got my line, I'm using the Hinson Willwood 7/8 modified master. It's been long enough that the banjo fitting everyone seems to be using for better clearance is newer than my 90 degree fitting.

At leat the problem is found, and fixable.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline Venom13132

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Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #157 on: June 20, 2019, 06:51:32 AM »
I got my line from speedway motor works or something like that.   I know Sikky makes good products they are just pricey.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump, TwinZ Rear Diffuser
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
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Offline MPbdy

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #158 on: June 20, 2019, 10:22:27 AM »
So the best bleed I ever got was just going through the master cylinder...

https://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-97-04-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-98-02-camaro-firebird-ls1/

A speed bleed line on the slave is a good idea anyway.  I have the Tick line and it looks way longer.

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #159 on: June 20, 2019, 06:45:57 PM »
So the best bleed I ever got was just going through the master cylinder...

https://www.tickperformance.com/tick-performance-remote-clutch-speedbleeder-line-for-97-04-corvette-z06-04-06-gto-98-02-camaro-firebird-ls1/

A speed bleed line on the slave is a good idea anyway.  I have the Tick line and it looks way longer.

That is a pretty killer price, thanks for passing it along and good to know you've had good experience with it. I'm looking at the Speedway lines from McLeod, but they have three sizes, anyone know the length by chance? lol

22, 30 or 48.... I'm guessing in the FD we can get away with a 22, but I'm going to try and head to the shop to measure.

Thanks for the help so far everyone!

Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline MPbdy

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #160 on: June 20, 2019, 08:43:16 PM »
I keep mine wrapped up in the engine bay. Itís nice to be able to get the end of the hose away from paint when you bleed it.

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #161 on: June 20, 2019, 11:19:38 PM »
I keep mine wrapped up in the engine bay. Itís nice to be able to get the end of the hose away from paint when you bleed it.

I do the same thing, mine is up near the brake booster which is nice and far from the freshly painted fenders. Also, looks like we use the 30" McLeod lines in our cars and I'll be switching to the banjo fitting too for some better clearance in front of the master cylinder: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/McLeod-139204-30-Camaro-F-Body-Trans-T56-Hydraulic-Clutch-Line-30-Inch,39869.html

Will be nice to have this sorted and be back on the road, I'll get some updated pics from the show here soon. I'm also thinking it's time to move on from the Mazdaspeed seats for something that sits me lower in the car and is more friendly for the helmet at the track. Right now with the TypeF seats my helmet sometimes touches the roll bar padding which is not awful, but not great. Recaro Pole Position seem to be what fits our cars the best without rubbing the doors and can get really close to the floor, their basic black ones would fit the bill.

As well, larger and stickier tires I'm looking at changing to over the summer. I'm sizing out what is out there and 255/305 R888r's are looking the best for section width to rim and keeping close to the 25" diameter with my rims. My 285 PSS are a bit too stretched out back right now on the 12" rim and a bit more grip will be nice. Trying to hold of changin the coilovers, but they are just a bit too low for street driving at times where my wheels are touching the wheel wells.

Any seat/tire reccomendations welcome of course.

Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #162 on: July 03, 2019, 04:59:05 AM »
Progress update and some show pics, to start off some pre-show shots from the body shop. It's neat how drastic the change in blue is when there is sun on the car, overcast, or it's indoors like at the show arena. There was a brand new (under 5K miles) ZR1 that arrived when I was leaving, fresh with one whole side of the car scratched and cracked from an off-track excursion, was rough to see but at least the owner was putting the car on the track and pushing it doing what it was designed to do. You can see my new hideaway plate that will be handy when I am needing to get more air to the rad, or don't want the disgusting front plate showing. I also had the body shop install new high-quality mesh in all the vents, the same material all the Lamborghinis and Audi's are using.




Arriving at the show in leaky fashion, at this point we didn't know how bad the clutch would be. Just that there was something wrong in the hydraulics.






Oh, and I took home best in show Mazda too.  :yay:


After getting it back to the shop, and opening up everything again... the leaky culprits. The o-ring and fitting were leaking on the bleeder line, while the main hydraulic line was refusing to sit flush in the slave cylinder. After ordering the new lines, installing and adding a bracket on the outside of the transmission to keep the main hydraulic line from moving - we had full pressure again! Bonus snap of the new clutch, this thing is ridiculous levels of ease compared to my previous unit, definitely an OEM feel to it and the upgraded flywheel is nice.




Big thanks to everyone who helped out with the diagnosis and sending me links to parts.  :cheers:

Next step is trying to find out why one of my headlights is now not turning on, power from the battery and fuses are all good... it is going to be a pain to disassemble the whole thing to see if there is a ground or some other issue. STAY WITH YOUR OEM POPUPS EVERYONE, I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH - I'VE HAD 4 FLUSH LIGHTS, TRUST ME.

Other than that, most of my go fast parts like the ITB's PRC heads, cam etc are going up for sale locally now. I want to focus on seat time, suspension improvement, tire improvement and driver improvement. There is a much larger reason around my departure from doing the ITB's, I'd like to of gone that route but it's something I'll get more into another time if folks are interested.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #163 on: July 03, 2019, 08:34:06 AM »
I'm always interested in what you're planning with this thing.  :D

Sucks that the clutch was such a PITA, but at least it looks to be sorted out now.  :)
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline tai-lun

Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« Reply #164 on: July 04, 2019, 04:38:07 AM »
I'm always interested in what you're planning with this thing.  :D

Sucks that the clutch was such a PITA, but at least it looks to be sorted out now.  :)

Thanks hehe, once all the NA/ITB engine parts, my collection of oil cooler adapters and seats are sold off I'll be cleaning up the engine bay and prepping it for better track day cooling.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD
Build Thread: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.150