March 22, 2019, 08:41:01 PM

Author Topic: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LS3 Turbo build- Fucking up where Jimlab left off  (Read 189798 times)

Offline mefarri

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Been waiting to do this for a long time nowÖ  :D So, as some of you guys know, I recently had the pleasure of buying Jimlabís fabled FD and I couldnít be happier with the car.  This will be the build thread for the car.  :drive:

 It will be a little slow at first as I need to decide on some things before buying stuff/ want to sell my G35 to fund a large portion of the budget for the car.  But I need you guys help now to decide what direction to go on a few areas.
In case you didnít know, hereís the quick write up Jim did on the car and whatís on it currently for the most part and the pics I took the day I got it.


1995 RX-7 PEP -
Bought new in April 1997, the last of two '95s imported by Chaplin's Mazda in Bellevue, WA
One owner, no accidents, always kept in a heated garage.
Currently located in Bothell, WA 98021.
~13,000 miles on the chassis, ~17,000 miles on the odometer (from speedo recalibration, see below)

DOCUMENTATION
I haven't decided what paper documentation I'll include with the car and would probably photocopy anything to preseve my own records.
I will include the 1995 Mazda shop manual and electrical book, as well as a 1993 electrical troubleshooting book that I've found handy.
I will include a DVD with digital pictures of all the mods done to the car. I've scanned a considerable number of the 35mm prints from the pre-digital era also.
I also have a large number of RX-7 books and Japanese parts catalogs, haven't decided if I'll include these or not. 

PAINT/INTERIOR
Originally Montego Blue Mica with tan leather and "orange" OEM carpet.
Now Chevrolet Corvette Electron Blue Metallic (2002) with black carpet and R1 seats.
Car was professionally painted with engine bay stripped, bumper, doors, hood, hatch, sunroof removed.
The only remant of MBM you will find is under the carpet, and under the car.
The paint was given a light buffing but needs to be wet sanded and final buffed. Ample clear coat was used to protect against minor scratches incurred during assembly.
Car has no emblems currently, but will include new black and silver Efini emblems (front and rear) and I believe I have the Efini sticker for the back of the car.
Will include two uncut Efini key blanks.
Door handles work perfectly, one small chip in one of the black door handle surrounds (driver's side).
There are no finger print dents in the doors, and the car has been covered most of the time, so there are only a couple minor scratches in the paint.
The front bumper is not sagging. 

INSTRUMENTATION
The car currently has no additional gauges.
Factory stereo with CD player.
The stock gauges were sent to New Zealand in 2001 and were reprinted and recalibrated. Factory illumination was retained. I'll post a picture later.
The speedometer top speed was increased to 240 mph and is calibrated to 8,000 ppm @ 60 mph if memory serves, but I'll have to check my notes. Stock is 8,2xx, I think.
The tachometer was calibrated to 1/2 stock for the LT1 tach signal. The input will have to be doubled to work with an LS tach signal.

HEADLIGHTS
Yeah, this is a sore subject. I've owned almost every sleek light kit made and two of a couple, and wasn't happy with any of them. 
The car had RE Amemiya sleek lights in 1998, so it is already modified for and will fit all current models of sleek lights that I know of. That said, it has no headlights installed.
You will not easily be able to install OEM lights in the car, since the wiring for the headlight door actuators has been eliminated (see ELECTRICAL below).
Will include a cheaper Ebay sleek light kit (sorry, can't remember the name of the kit, will see if I can find any pictures) and various Hella projectors if the owner wants to upgrade or make his own kit.
I think I have most of the "Attain" sleek headlight kit, but since it was used for 3D modeling, I think some changes were made. I'll throw that in as well.

TAIL LIGHTS
Efini 99-spec converted tail lights. I wish I could say they were perfect, but I gave my OEM tail lights to Trev Dagley when I bought genuine '96 Efini tail lights in 1997 and they were on the car he was killed in. The lights I currently have were off that '93 CYM R1 and were converted by the guy on the RX-7 Club forum that has done them for others, so I know of no problems with sealing.



SUSPENSION
All aluminum suspension pieces polished, including the rear knuckles
0-mile OEM front rubber bushings
0-mile OEM rear pillow bushings in all positions
0-mile Super Pro poly bushings in rear control arms and trailing arms
0-mile FEED pillow bushings in rear toe links
0-mile Zeal B6 Function coilovers, 500/450 lb./in. front/rear if memory serves
Rear subframe stripped and powdercoated


STEERING
New MOMO steering wheel, Evolution M
Maval Gear converted manual steering rack. It has a few minor scratches from fabrication of my own LS cradle, and they didn't completely weld closed one of the fitting holes, so it'll need a little JB Weld and some paint touch up.

CONVERSION PARTS
0-mile Samberg LS engine cradle, powdercoated flat black.
0-mile Samberg tie rod ends, uninstalled. Currently has the old Hinson welded tie rod ends.
0-mile Samberg transmission brace, powdercoated flat black.
0-mile Samberg Cobra differential cradle, powdercoated semi-gloss black.
0-mile Samberg drive-by-wire throttle adapter
0-mile Samberg steering rack spacers, powdercoated flat black

ELECTRICAL
Front engine bay wiring harness has been modified to eliminate unused components, reducing several pounds of unused wiring. That includes the headlight door actuator wiring and fan relay wiring.
0-mile uncharged Hawker Genesis battery (mounting bracket installed beneath driver's side bin)
2-gauge power run to engine bay from battery mounting location.
The stock air conditioning never worked well, so I eliminated the under dash components when I was on one of my "lightening" kicks, but I have a replacement core that can be reinstalled if you want A/C on the car. I don't believe I eliminated the A/C wiring under the dash, but any wiring in the engine bay related to A/C was removed.
Honda S2000 push button starter mod, no cigarette lighter. 

SAFETY
BOTH air bags have been removed. The first gen. air bags were dangerous, in my opinion, and in a car this small it was a liability. It also weighed a consierable amount. 
The passenger's side airbag ('95 model, remember) was eliminated and an aluminum brace was fabricated to hold the stock cover in place.
Streetworks in Auburn, WA installed a CroMo 4-point roll bar with harness loops. I'll post pictures when I find them.
Both seats have brackets (can't remember if the passenger's side is installed) for 5-point harnesses.
I have a new (certification long expired, of course) blue Simpson 5-point harness that will be included.
















So hereís my where headís at right now:

I had decided a while back that Iíd do a 6 liter iron truck motor with all forged internals, cam, ported heads, valvetrain etc.  This is BY FAR the best bang for the buck.  I can get a full pullout locally for $800.  Benefits of this are that it will have all the misc bolts and hardware Iím going to need.  Downsides are that Iím going to throw away a decent amount of stuff.  Iím not using PS, was planning on getting a new alternator and water pump anyway (maybe an electric WP), the coils will have in excess of 100k so I was thinking about getting new ones as well, oil pan and pickup canít be used, intake manifold canít be used (right?), donít like DBW so if it has it, the throttle body canít be used etc. 

 I had thoughts of buying everything separate as all I really need are the block, crank, heads, valve covers, wiring harness ( can you use the truckís harness?) and the bolts that go along with everything.  But I donít know if it would be just cheaper in the long run to get the full pull out-probably. 

The only downside to the 6 liter truck motor is the 75 pounds that come along with the iron block.  Iíve made my peace with that.  Iíve got the beautiful chromoly 4 point cage that will offset the weight added to the front and since the car will have flush mount headlights, no PS, potentially lighter seats (more on that later) etc.  I think it will all balance out well. 

Now, youíre probably thinking, ďWhy forged internals from the get go?Ē  A big ass turbo thatís why.  :yay:

The car will also get a decent sized single turbo as well.  This is one of the things Iím going to need some insight on.  Iíll probably fab up some manifolds much like BeasTTís but place my turbo on the passenger side like Blakeís.  I think Snuggles (ablake) might have me talked into 4Ē exhaust all the way back, although there definitely will be a resonator and muffler.  I may try and do the same muffler setup that Kevin Doe had with the staggered 2 4Ēmagnaflow resonators.  My goal is 700-800whp so I think 4Ē is kinda mandatory.  I think with proper muffling, I can get it to sound good.  I hate the loud/gross sound that you usually hear with F bodies.  Iím looking for a more contained, focused sound if that makes sense.  I donít want the car to be confused with a 2 ton truck by the sound. 

Iíve already got my body pieces and wheels picked out Iím pretty sure.  Gotta make sure my friendís wheels fit first to know that the oneís Iím looking at will before I buy them. 
Iím looking at the brand new XXR 527ís in Chromium black.  18x8.75 ET35 front, 18x9.75 ET20 rear.  I wish the front had more offset but weíll see how it goes.  These wheels are a fucking steal for what you get.  The weightís are 20.4 lbs for the front and 21.8 for the back if I remember right.  So pretty damn light for not being a race wheel.    I think Iím going to run 245ís up front and 285ís out back. 


The car will get a 99 spec front lip, Shine street diffuser, and feed side steps.  Also carbon fiber RE Amemya style headlight buckets from Chaser Auto are on the way already.  Iím thinking about doing the shine low profile spoiler and square craft style rear bumper canards as well.  Havenít decided on those yet.  If I were to do those, Iíd get the feed side steps, wing and rear bumper canards in carbon to match the headlights, and paint the rear diffuser satin black to match the front lip.  I think thatíd look sick. 

Since Jim didnít fill in the holes in the bumpers, I have to use badges.  I donít know which ones yet.  Efini, Flying M style, customÖ

The interior will stay basically stock-ish.  I plan on getting a NRG quick release steering wheel hub.  Prob. A different shift and ebrake boot set.  Shift knob.  And a some gauges and a different head unit and speakers.  Thatís about it unless I decide to get seats and harnesses.  Iím looking at the Corbeau FX1 Pro seats.  Also a freaking steal at $350 for a nice fixed back seat covered in microseude.  Iíd get a pair as I hate mismatched seats.  The problem is no one knows if they fit the FD.  Iím trying to work out a deal locally with someone to buy them from me if I get them and they donít fit.  If I did those, Iíd get some 5 point harnesses as well.

Well, I think thatís enough for now.  Iíll start posting my questions soon. :drive:

« Last Edit: August 18, 2015, 11:11:04 PM by Speedfab »
"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline BeasTT

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2011, 01:18:06 PM »
FIRST!
Nick Shultz

1993 Rx-7
371ci, Twin Billet 6265's, Twin A2W's, ProEFI 128, RacePak IQ3,
McLeod RXT, Speedfab 8.8 solid axle, QA1s, FIC 2150cc, Magnafuel 4303

Offline thetastelingers

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #2 on: April 14, 2011, 01:30:02 PM »
Good god you have an awesome platform to start with.
wazzaaaaaaaaaaaapppppp!

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #3 on: April 14, 2011, 02:03:05 PM »
Matt,

Give me a call sometime about your turbo kit plans.   If you're planning a placement like my car has, I would strongly suggest basing it on cast manifolds;    With BeasTT's car it was tubular vs. log manifolds due to space constraints, but a setup like mine allows for "proper" tubular headers or the use of C6 style cast manifolds.  Space constraints required some "give" in the setup on Nick's car, mainly to the collectors.  The C6 manifolds will support > 1000 RWHP with a turbo and are much more cost effective than tubulars, and if you have to run a sub-optimal collector setup, you're not likely to be losing appreciable power.   They also have the benefits of keeping heat in very well and being very, very resistant to cracking.

Can't wait to see what you come up with on this build.  :)

-Blake
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline mefarri

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #4 on: April 14, 2011, 02:41:54 PM »
Will do.  I'll try and shed some insight on the reasoning I had in the mean time.  I'm not going to do the whole exhaust manifold over the valve covers thing for a few reasons, but I'll just leave it at that's not an option.  So that left me with what I thought were 2 options; truck manifolds or custom tubular.  It might seem stupid but I'm not a fan of how the cast manifolds look.  See here for the C6 manifolds:

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/attachments/lsx-parts-sale/182545d1244086012-ls6-intake-ls2-ls1-exhaust-manifolds-dscf1980.jpg

It just seems that with a little work, you could make some simple tubulars that look way better and if it's made of schedule 10, it shouldn't crack if well braced.  That was my thinking.  I figured I could place the manifold outlets wherever I wanted etc.  Also, v band was the plan and I noticed the c6 is a 2 bolt style.  I didn't even know c6 was an option- has anyone tested those on our cars to see if there's any interferance? 

I'm gonna make up a quick little paint drawing to explain to people why I'm putting the turbo to the side and post it here in a sec.
"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #5 on: April 14, 2011, 03:12:49 PM »
Yeah, they clear a Samberg setup in a flipped forward orientation (a la zBrown).

Are you planning your downpipe to be high like mine?    Either the downpipe or the headers have to be above the valve covers if you want a 4" downpipe.    Even a setup like BeasTT's wouldn't clear that big a pipe, he has dual 3" on his due to the twins.

Nothing wrong with tubular, I was just noting that in a very compact setup, the only real advantage over cast is appearance.   :)

That big engine bay gets small real quick when turbo systems come in to play.   You need to plan ahead about hood retention as well, you'll have one HELL of a time fitting a 750+ RWHP capable turbo + streetable cooling system + factory hood latch in there.   Can it be done?  Yeah, I think so, but it will be a LOT of work and is way beyond my own skill level.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline mefarri

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #6 on: April 14, 2011, 03:16:20 PM »
You ready to laugh?  This took at least 4 days on photoshop to do.

"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #7 on: April 14, 2011, 03:25:50 PM »
Here's a shot looking at a Hinson kit, which is really similar to my placement (but lower):



If you look at the distance from the block to the turbo and then consider the distance from a normal radiator placement (with hood latch intact) you see the issue with fitting a Taurus fan or similar in place with everything intact.     It also does appear that Hinson has both the downpipe and headers below the valve covers, though it looks like a 3" downpipe in his pictures.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline mefarri

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2011, 03:30:35 PM »
Yea I think the plan right now is 4" DP over the valve cover.  The plan is everything under the stock hood and daily drivability cooling.  It WILL happen. 

Benefits of offset turbo placement:

Shorter hot side intercooler pipe
Shorter more direct downpipe
Easier to brace
Way more room behind the radiator for fans,accessories
Turbo isn't heating the radiator as much
Easier to run the cold side piping off the throttle body without hitting a turbo
Easier to run turbo inlet and filter

Downsides:

Unequal crossover tube length?
"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline BeasTT

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #9 on: April 14, 2011, 03:43:20 PM »
I'll double check when I get home (And chime in more) to see if a 4" dp will fit under my headers. But I will say, without a doubt, go tubular over logs or manifolds. Balla status.
Nick Shultz

1993 Rx-7
371ci, Twin Billet 6265's, Twin A2W's, ProEFI 128, RacePak IQ3,
McLeod RXT, Speedfab 8.8 solid axle, QA1s, FIC 2150cc, Magnafuel 4303

Offline mefarri

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #10 on: April 14, 2011, 03:49:47 PM »
A few reasons I'm looking at an electric WP is clearance for said turbo, AN fittings, and it pumps serious water.  More HP is kinda a bonus. 

This is how I'd go about building the car.  Motor in with accesories you're going to use.  A/C (come to Arkansas for 5 minutes without it) alternator and WP.  Mount the radiator of your choice and the fan of your choice (is Taurus still the best if you can use it?)  Connect up some faux coolant hoses.  Then place the turbo in the most optimum space you can and building everything to fit all of that while keeping in mind things like oil feed and return lines and serviceability. (big thing for me.  I hate when you have to like remove the hot side intercooler piping to undo a bolt for a fog light or something)  I'd prob. want the turbo higher than that Hinson pic just for the sake of keeping it out of all the shit that's on the ground.  Plus an oil drain would be awfully hard being that low.
"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline mefarri

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #11 on: April 14, 2011, 03:55:37 PM »
While we're talking about turbos.... I need some input on what size I should go with.  Like I said, 700-800whp is my goal, but I don't want to be peaking out a turbo to get there.  I'm going to go with a T4 based Precision billet unit with the CEA wheel as I can get them at cost and they make great power.   :D    I know alot of guys run 76 or 78mm turbos with good results, but what do ya'll think?  This will be on 93 pump all the time.  What's a 76/78mm turbo in comparable Garrett stuff?  Like a GT42?
"I'm not sure what your intent was because I don't speak "dumbshit", but next time, start your own thread. "

-Jimlab

"Otherwise it looks like something I can build over a weekend, if I spent the first day watching TV."

-Blake motherfucking McBride

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #12 on: April 14, 2011, 04:07:30 PM »
I'm not familiar with Garret sizing, but a real 78mm billet Precision will get you to that power no problem, I should be in the lower half of that range with the little TC76.

I'm 100% with you on servicability, Nick can vouch for that on my car, it's all designed around easy of maintenance.  That said, this is going to be a tight bay, you will have to give up some things, space wise.

The only part that is difficult in the equation is the cooling system.   Adding the A/C condenser up front + FMIC means you really need a serious radiator and cooling fan if you want "stock like" cooling performance.    A dual pass radiator and something in the range of a Taurus fan (3000+ CFM, fully shrouded) will do it, but fitting a large T4 framed turbo in that position is going to be a challenge, even with the radiator pushed forward 4-5".

I'm not trying to be a downer in any way, just making sure you are thinking of some of the details I've spent hours poring over already.   :)

Another thing to ponder is your clearance near your A/C lines with a 4" downpipe right there.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline zbrown

Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #13 on: April 14, 2011, 04:35:18 PM »
dont skimp on cooling

I would recommend the GTS, smallish physically, affordable, and will support your goals while still giving great responce

gnx7 made over 950rwhp on one with a ls3

nothing is more compact than the C6's..... you guys can take your tubulars all you want, i will take my reliability, compactness, OEM plug acess,  and OEM heat sheilds anyday



and another thing on DP size,  i believe gnx7 was on a 3"

also.... i just got my cutout done, and i am surprised with the results

My exhaust is a full 3" with two magnaflow mufflers in series........ and with the cutout open (very near the turbo) i only gain about a half # of boost and i can not tell any difference in spool

which shows that the 3" with good mufflers really isn't any restriction at the ~600whp (7psi now), and it is very quiet

ass mufflers will kill you though

all i am saying is i don't see the need trying to stuff a 4" DP in these cars


my 2 cents, haha


good luck, i hate you for the car you bought
8.50/165



Offline zbrown

Re: Mefarri's 1995 FD- LSX Turbo build- Picking up where Jimlab left off
« Reply #14 on: April 14, 2011, 04:39:27 PM »
  What's a 76/78mm turbo in comparable Garrett stuff?  Like a GT42?

precision uses garrett wheels


the plain GTS76 uses the GT4202  wheels...

It has had its shaft turned down to fit in the smaller bearing housing on the GTS,


so in other words..... the GTS is a gt42 with smaller housings and a much smaller physical size

granted the full size 42 will make a bit more power from the full size housings


oh for refrence....the GTS and the TC unit by turbonetics are the ~same size other than the GTS having a larger compressor cover diameter, around ~1.5" more

the TC is a good turbo too, but it will be on the edge trying to hit your upper goals
8.50/165