February 28, 2021, 05:07:12 AM

Author Topic: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?  (Read 26422 times)

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #90 on: November 02, 2017, 12:04:10 PM »
It has HF start, It seems like sometimes I have to almost touch the tungsten to get the arc started,  Im thinking I may not be cleaning my tungsten enough.  I do not have pulse unforunately but trying to learn the pedal
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1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

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Offline digitalsolo

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Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #91 on: November 02, 2017, 12:28:35 PM »
The AlphaTIG I use has HF start, but it does occasionally get fussy and I'll do a quick scratch to get it going.   Once I start welding a piece it generally works fine, it's just the very first start that can be inconsistent.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #92 on: November 02, 2017, 02:27:19 PM »
The AlphaTIG I use has HF start, but it does occasionally get fussy and I'll do a quick scratch to get it going.   Once I start welding a piece it generally works fine, it's just the very first start that can be inconsistent.

Im glad im not the only one, I wonder why that happens maybe the way things are grounded?  HF definitely takes a different path to ground than normal DC current
https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

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Offline digitalsolo

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Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #93 on: November 02, 2017, 03:00:23 PM »
Yeah, I think HF spends more time in the "skin" layer, but it's been a while since I slept through EE 200 classes.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #94 on: November 03, 2017, 01:51:15 PM »
Yeah, I think HF spends more time in the "skin" layer, but it's been a while since I slept through EE 200 classes.

Lol something like that.  I work with RF welding machines at work.
https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

CCVT

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #95 on: November 03, 2017, 07:23:21 PM »
The HF start function just serves to ionize the gas between the electrode and workpiece, creating a current path without touching the work.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #96 on: November 10, 2017, 05:05:59 AM »
Ive foind floorimg the pedal is much more effective, before I was rolling into it. If that makes sense

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https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

CCVT

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #97 on: November 10, 2017, 08:00:05 AM »
Ive foind floorimg the pedal is much more effective, before I was rolling into it. If that makes sense

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It does, as a higher voltage will jump a longer air gap.
So basically, you start with a burnout.  :D
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #98 on: November 11, 2017, 12:52:15 PM »
I welded a bracket for the oil filter mount.
Had quite a bit of difficulty getting a good puddle established.
Every time I'd get the puddle to start to flow, I'd get a weird shower of sparks, and the puddle would get lots of porosity.
I kept going back to reflow it, and it would happen again.
First thought was this tube, which also carries the pedal mount, was chromemoly or something, but it's welded into the rest of the mild steel chassis.
Second idea was contamination on the ID of the tubing.
About the time I finally finished, with a not so pretty bead, it occurred to me that this was a short section of tube, sealed at both ends, and the problem may have been that the air inside the tube heated up and built up pressure, and whenever I'd get a puddle going the internal pressure would blow out through the puddle, both physically disturbing it and allowing oxidation to occur in the liquid steel.

It would blow out so bad I had to grind my tungsten several times to get rid of steel splatter on it.
Next time something like this happens, I'll drill a tiny vent hole somewhere in the section of tube to relieve any pressure buildup.

Any other ideas or suggestions are appreciated.

Hopefully my oil filter won't fall off in the middle of a race.

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1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #99 on: November 11, 2017, 12:59:43 PM »
Shit, it looks even worse in the pics than it did in person.  :barf:
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #100 on: November 11, 2017, 06:24:32 PM »
Looks like a lot of heat in the tube.   How thick is each piece?    If one is much thicker, you want to concentrate the torch time on that piece.

It looks like a lot of heat and and some contamination to me, but I am very much not a pro.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #101 on: November 11, 2017, 08:17:10 PM »
Looks like a lot of heat in the tube.   How thick is each piece?    If one is much thicker, you want to concentrate the torch time on that piece.

It looks like a lot of heat and and some contamination to me, but I am very much not a pro.

Hell, I can't even call myself an amateur yet.  ::)

The plate is probably thicker than the tube wall, but the edge of the plate still wanted to melt more quickly, hence I had to concentrate heat on the tube.

Could oxygen blowing out from the inside of the tube cause that type of problem?  I'm sure it overpowered the Argon when it blew out.
I wish I'd thought to drill a vent hole before I finished.  As it was, each time it blew out, it got a little better, which is why I now think the inner pressure was being reduced.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #102 on: November 16, 2017, 10:16:00 AM »
Hell, I can't even call myself an amateur yet.  ::)

The plate is probably thicker than the tube wall, but the edge of the plate still wanted to melt more quickly, hence I had to concentrate heat on the tube.

Could oxygen blowing out from the inside of the tube cause that type of problem?  I'm sure it overpowered the Argon when it blew out.
I wish I'd thought to drill a vent hole before I finished.  As it was, each time it blew out, it got a little better, which is why I now think the inner pressure was being reduced.

Looks like lots of contamination, what size nozzle and gas flow are you running?  A vent hole would definitely help too.  Did you wipe everything with acetone before welding too?  What amps are you running, it really looks like there was some undercutting.  Do you have time to grind it off and try again with a hole?
https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

CCVT

Offline Cobranut

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #103 on: November 16, 2017, 03:40:11 PM »
Thanks for the input.

The nozzle is whatever was in my WP-26 torch.  Gas flow was set at around 10 CFH I think.

I thought about cutting it off and redoing it, but this is hidden by the aluminum firewall.
I hit it pretty hard a bunch of times with a hammer, it sounded solid and showed no signs of flex or cracking.
I think it'll hold the oil filter mount just fine.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline freeskier7791

Re: WHICH WELDER TO BUY?
« Reply #104 on: December 02, 2017, 10:12:01 PM »
Heres my first tube project, modified steering link for the fb

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https://www.youtube.com/thedriftingdad
1985 Mazda RX7 GSL Drift Car

CCVT