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Author Topic: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread  (Read 28270 times)

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2010, 06:04:59 AM »
Well, that's all the pictures I have right now. What's next? Finish the interior, finish assembly of the motor - mate to transmission, install, install radiator, trim front bumper re-bar for 99 bumper, fit 99 bumper, re-install dash,(not looking forward to that), and LOTS and LOTS of little stuff. Oh yea, the front suspension.
I'm just trying to hit one or two things off my list per day - progress is progress.
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #16 on: May 14, 2010, 06:05:46 AM »
Ok, what's next? I'm diverging a little from the normal PS setups - I consider PS mandatory - I've tried it all ways on the FD, and since I drive it all over, I want it.
I loved the MR2 PS pump setup Danzan did - but didn't like the weight. The MR2 Spyder,(2000+), is lighter, but has the controller integrated and that has to be overcome.
Well, they did it here. Pictures/writeup of the GTM install start in post #53 and goes on from there. David Borden is who I got the info from originally.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208188

snuck a pic here,(stole it):



I talked to Ian who designed the circuit board and bought one of the very few he had left. I'll be installing it - so no pictures yet. I just ordered the pump today - $335 after I included the $100 core for a brand new one. *edit* - they couldn't find one anywhere in their stockhouses. So I ordered a used one - $270. Pretty good and brings my total investment with controller to $320 plus the lines I'll have to fab. *end edit* Not bad, and a little cheaper than the 2nd gen ones. Used can be found as low as $150 - but I missed out on one and they are starting to be bought up.
You can bet I'll be putting that info here. I'm looking forward to it for sure and had to post something even though I don't have any pics.

BTW, had to get new nuts for the lower control arm ball joint. The size is a 14x1.5 metric castle nut. NOONE has one and I went to all the specialty stores,(lots down here with the oil field industry). I ended up going with a nyloc nut - but want to change that out.
Anyone have an extra nut for the lower ball joint!?
« Last Edit: June 23, 2010, 12:38:47 AM by Bob H »
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #17 on: May 14, 2010, 06:11:15 AM »
This was just back and forth from here about ordering the castle nut - but it was good info, so I included it.

93silverbullet
Give Ray at Malloy a call, I just ordered new ones from him.

Bob H
Ordered new control arms,(at $700+ each!), or the nut?

spanks
You could also contact fritz flynn on the club. I got camber bolts from him when one of mine welded the threads to the nut on the way out. He is a great source for used odds and ends.

93silverbullet
Quote from: Bob H
Ordered new control arms,(at $700+ each!), or the nut?

The castle nut. You are talking about the castle nut that secures the front lower arm to the steering knuckle, right? Here's the part number the castle nut: 99923-1400. Give Ray a call and he can get the castle nuts.

BTW - if you order new lower arms they do not come with those castle nuts.

Here's the part we're talking about... right?



Hope that helps :-)

Bob H
I did not realize they don't come together! Yes, that's the one I'm talking about. I've got another order to put in anyways - so I'll include that - Thanks!

93silverbullet
No problem... glad I could help.


93silverbullet
Quote from: Bob H
Called Malloy - Ray as always, what an easy process to deal with!

From one "Free Member" to another "Free Member", glad he was able to help you out :D.

I order two new tie-rod ends from Ray on Monday and just got them this morning. Now that's what I call service! He's the man when it comes to OEM parts at a good price.

Bob H
Not only that - it was going to take several days to get some of the parts in,(including the castle nuts), so he offered overnight them to him, then out to me - I said "Naw, don't want to pay an additional $40 or so". He said, nope, should be about $12 - so I took it. Now THAT is service!

ScottMan
Ray is indeed the man. I usually shoot an email to him once a month with a list of stuff and with no communication the stuff shows up 3 days later. Haha.
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #18 on: May 14, 2010, 06:11:52 AM »
Some more questions

LJD
You that mentioned that you made a mistake in wiring your dual-6V-in-series-batteries setup. Did you forget to come back to that, or do I need to shut up and be patient? =)

I like the 6V-in-series setup as an option for someone (perhaps an idiot like me) who might be interested in locating the batteries further back in the car for even more rear weight bias. Looking at the specs for those slim batteries (3-9/16" x 8-1/8" x 10"), it may be possible to arrange the pair laying flat in the spare tire well. The center section may have to be "massaged" a bit. Assuming the spare tire and jack have already been sacrificed, the only tradeoffs would be the weight of the additional wire and the slightly higher location of the weight. However, with all that power and the slight tendency of the FD towards oversteer, moving almost 40 lbs back a couple more feet might be worth it.

Along the same lines, will you be running an accusump? That seems like another opportunity to get creative with moving weight rearward. The weight of the accusump plus 3 quarts of oil is probably only 10-15 lbs and the additional weight of the oil line running to the rear of the car is considerable, but I just hate the idea of another 10-15 lbs on the front bumper. Anyway, food-for-thought.
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #19 on: May 14, 2010, 06:13:13 AM »
 
Quote from: LJD
You that mentioned that you made a mistake in wiring your dual-6V-in-series-batteries setup. Did you forget to come back to that, or do I need to shut up and be patient? =)

Nope, I forgot. :o The mistake is fairly simple - and if you know about it, a non-issue to change.
Battery Cut-off's. As a general rule - they should be between the battery and the ground, not on the "hot" side. You can install it on either and it will work. You'll notice here:



That the cutoff is on the pass side. If you notice here:



That is the positive side.... Didn't even thing about it initially until I had ALREADY cut the storage bins. Choice was to buy new bins and re-wire the entire setup..... I chose to keep it on the positive side. Easier to reach from the drivers seat. Disadvantage - THAT WIRE IS HOT all the time! Don't touch them when installing/removing the cut-off switch!

Accusump - unless your building a race car, don't put it inside the car and run hot oil lines through your pass compartment. Yes, its a small weight in the wrong spot - but not that big a deal in the long run. You'd have to be running in the top group at near the limit of the car before you could notice a difference like that. Bottom line - install it where it makes sense.
I haven't decided yet if I am going to. I have the Improved racing latest gen baffle - so I may just try that initially as I only run street tires, no R comps or slicks - so my lateral loading may not be high enough. I want to get the car on the road first.
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #20 on: May 14, 2010, 06:15:04 AM »
Ok, thread is back up to date of what I posted.  Kinda neat to have it all in one set of posts! 
 I've been working a lot up front and on things that don't show well for progress - little stuff.  But I'm moving forward.  Engine is all dressed up now - need to get some pictures.  Its ready to go in the car save a few minor things.  Whew!  Now I don't feel bad about posting progress updates here! :)
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline 6ta1

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #21 on: May 16, 2010, 08:14:10 AM »
thanks for posting everything up again Bob!

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #22 on: May 16, 2010, 06:40:23 PM »
Great build Bob, thanks for posting it up.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2010, 07:21:20 AM »
Dang it!  pictures are waaay to big - I'll resize and re-post....Ok, all fixed...  :D


Haven't really updated this lately.  Will see what pics I have uploaded and will put that info up. 

Ok, gas pedal saga.  I'm using the GTO Drive-By-Wire Pedal.  Why?  1) Because I'm using the GTO harness - and 2) I think it best matches the FD brake/clutch pedals. 
 Anyways, that means I need to make an adapter.  At first, I was going to use the base of the stock gas pedal and bolt a plate to that...  See my cut here:



That is just the base - and I had pulled out the sleeves to check depth for a different idea. 


So I wanted to make a simple plate that others could copy  To that end, The plate dimensions were 7.5" x 3".  And in the lower right corner - I measured 1" in and up and then drew a diagonal line and that was the "angled" cut.   I'll show it later with the outline of the pedal/holes/etc..

Not perfect - but I was going for a prototype here,(holes weren't initially cut).  Ended up shining it up a bit and left it as is for the final product. 



 Anyways, held up the pedal, that adapter plate and the stock pedal mount and checked position in relation to the brake pedal, etc...  Here was some trail fitting. 
Old pedal for reference to depth/position:





Did some drawing/cutting/drilling.  Shows the outline of the pedal and the two "sleeves" from the stock mount and where those holes go. 




Pedal mount initially put up,(btw, this is 1/8" thick aluminum sheet - fairly stout stuff! ;)). 




This had some issues though... on to the next post...
« Last Edit: June 02, 2010, 07:37:41 AM by Bob H »
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #24 on: June 02, 2010, 07:48:24 AM »
Ok, so even though its very thick Aluminum - that is a fairly long moment arm.  So I thought that having nearly 1/4" of aluminum sheet was enough - nope, it still would flex since the spring inside the GTO pedal is fairly strong - requiring a fair amount of force to get full throttle.  And there is the minor issue that I can only get the top two bolts in - the bottom hole is just that - a hole.  You can't put a bolt through it because at full throttle - the back of the pedal hits the frame:



and



So what to do?  I needed to secure the top of the plate to the firewall - which would accomplish two things - first it would keep the bracket from flexing.  Two, it would allow a better mount of the pedal, meaning I could get away with only two points, not the three like I had planned. 

First, using the stock pedal base didn't work for the thickness plate I was using - so I planned to pull the sleeves out and cut them down a little and use them as spacers - here is me measuring to cut:



And here is how I installed them - and I did put two washers to help spread the load,(and I cut them further than I measured to!):



So I now needed to drill the firewall.  You could easily adjust the top two bolts to have one go through the bolt attached to the firewall,(a mount for I think the clutch line that is now gone?).  Anyways, I just used what I had - and here was where the two bolts had to go in:



I wanted these to be fixed so I could remove the gas pedal at a later time w/o removing these - so I ran a nut down to hold these fixed.  I then installed the pedal bracket on:



You'll notice a small bolt/nut in the lower middle - that is a "stud" to center the bottom of the pedal.  It doesn't anchor it, but it does limit/eliminate side-side movement.  That allows less flex/stress on the upper two bolting points.

Here is the final install:



And with the brake pedal/booster re-installed:




What a royal pain in the ass! However, it was a cakewalk compared to the front bumper I'm working on right now.......
 Say it with me - order an OEM 99 spec front bumper, not an aftermarket one! 
More on that when I'm done. 
 Motor gets put in today!  Yea!
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline vel525

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #25 on: June 02, 2010, 04:32:22 PM »
Bob, thanks for the update/pics on the DBW.  This was one of the main things I was pondering how it would all work and looks like you a have a pretty solid solution. 
LS3/T56 in progress....very slow progress.  Currently 0rwhp.
GTC front, Feed sides, Re-Amemiya street diffusor, Pettit Racing GT flares, 99 CF wing, CCW SP20 (18x10 and 18x11.5), Stoptech BBK, 99 spec rear brakes, Tein Flex coilvers, HID lights, etc.

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #26 on: June 23, 2010, 12:20:05 AM »
I've been in a full bore thrash - and damm if that last 10% doesn't take 90%+ of the time! 
 In a few weeks, I'll settle down and post what I've been doing - lots of pics have been taken. 
 Short list:
Bumper fitting,(raceonusa) - kinda a pain to fit, but eventually it will be ok.  Don't recommend it. 
Motor/tranny in - wiring harness in and connected.  Interior and dash in and completed,(gauges out, radio out).  ECM - well, turns out its a GM "blank" i.e. needs to be flashed by the dealer before I can even read it in HP tuners ......  Great....  So I hurried up and finished all the suspension/brakes to drop it off the jackstands
(no more jackstand racing!). 
 Radiator - lots of mods to Sambergs.... will post extensive stuff about that.  I still like his stuff, and he is modifying his setups to match what I've done now,(not because of me - but definitely b/c of input like mine).   Had to swap surge tank to drivers head - as his setup won't work with vette/cts-v setups.....  I'm a little peeved - but still would chose his stuff.  I'll be putting together a review/list of changes that are needed,(many are already done). 
 Lots of time spent on wiring - tonight I'm running wires for the fuel pump relay, the speakers,(not installing them for some time, but want the wires set).  Trying to get engine bay wires set - did a custom mount for the big relay/fuse box and the main fuse connector.  Lots of fun with the PS lines and the G8 alternator......
 Anyways - lots of pictures to come in maybe 2 weeks, and lots of info... 
 I love/hate this car. 
Built not bought - maybe I should have bought and modified?!
-Bob
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck

Offline lackskill

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #27 on: June 23, 2010, 04:06:51 AM »
I have a question, which, I'm sorry to say is not necessarily specific to your car.  In the first post you mentioned that there was no solution to making your LS2 cruise control work.  Is this still true? 

Not knowing the specifics of why, but based on the fact that everyone is swapping go pedals, I'm assuming that the rotard is a cable driven accelerator and the LS2 is a DBW.  Are there LS1 cruise solutions?

Nice build and sorry for not being totally on topic.  I'm still in the learning stages, trying to decide on details that I'm a long ways away from making decisions about.  Any other gotchas you'd warn a complete rx7 noob about?


Offline LJD

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Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #28 on: June 23, 2010, 09:51:43 AM »
I have a question, which, I'm sorry to say is not necessarily specific to your car.  In the first post you mentioned that there was no solution to making your LS2 cruise control work.  Is this still true? 

Not knowing the specifics of why, but based on the fact that everyone is swapping go pedals, I'm assuming that the rotard is a cable driven accelerator and the LS2 is a DBW.  Are there LS1 cruise solutions?

Correct, there is currently no cruise control solution using the LS2 ECM with DBW.  However, cruise control is very easy to do using the LS1 PCM with its cable throttle body.

As a side note, it is possible to use an LS1 PCM on an early LS2 engine with the 24X reluctor.  You have to use LS1 knock sensors relocated (drill and tap), purchase a throttle body, fab a cable bracket, re-tune, and a few other sensor/connector tricks.  So, it's not trivial.  In order to use later gen IV engines (later LS2, LS3, LS7) with the 58X reluctor, you can either try Lingenfelter's crank signal convertor or swap reluctor wheels, which requires quite a bit of tear down.
Calling upon my years of experience, I froze at the controls.

Offline Bob H

Re: White 94 FD LS2/L92 build thread
« Reply #29 on: July 01, 2010, 01:46:22 PM »
Ok, update time finally.  I need to put a 56k warning in the title!  Pics, pics and more pics. 
 Ok, where to start - the radiator has been a hot topic - so I'll start with that. 
 Sambergs setup sits low - too low for my liking and I didn't realize it was that low when I bought it. 
 So, what do you do to a $1000+ radiator?  Cut it up of course! 
 Bottom line, we took 4 rows off the bottom - new overall height is 13.5" vs I think 16 some inches.  That required moving the middle divider and lower output.  So here you go:

The 4 rows cut:



New height:

MG]


The divider I was talking about that needs to now be moved 2 rows up,(since we took out 4):



New overall side shot showing how much it was reduced - first the old shot:



Then the new shot:




So you can see - a big difference.  This is now what Justin does - all his new ones are this depth,(4 rows shorter). 
 The irony is many of the issues I've ran into, others have as well - and now the design is better.  The big take-away is look at other competitors, they would just stick with what they had - Justin has continued to evolve his setup based on problems and feedback.  The fans are a completely separate issue I'll be dealing with later. 
More to come..
Datsun 240Z (2), Big Duramax truck