Racelogic TC setup

[Gunnytron]

That looks like a transient voltage suppressor, which is designed to clamp an input by conducting when a specified voltage is reached.  It could effectively turn a sine wave of sufficient voltage into something similar to a square wave.

I found the series on Mouser's site, but a quick search didn't turn up the specific part number.
https://www.mouser.com/new/vishay/vishay-transzorb-suppressors/

Datasheet:  https://www.mouser.com/pdfdocs/87606-2.pdf

The 170 may refer to the standoff voltage rating, which is where significant current conduction occurs.

Mouser is a pretty good source for parts, they've stocked most everything I've ever needed.

Thanks, though I don't understand a word you are saying

It would be nice to try and get all the parts in one place. I just need to be sure I am getting the correct parts. I have emailed tech support again to see if they can give me any more details on the part. A few of the part numbers i have been given are discontinued so I am trying to match the numbers and get the correct alternative products.

What makes it more difficult is that a lot of part numbers are for packs of 5000+ so I then have to find the smaller quantities and find them in stock.

[Exidous]

Mouser will be the way to go. Odds are for the discontinued stuff you'll have to find a suitable sub but they almost always sell in small quantities.

[Cobranut]

Call Mouser tech support, I bet they can help with equivalent part numbers and track down what you need.

Another good source is Newark Electronics. Newark.com
I use them a lot at work, and their customer service is second to none.
IIRC they also have a UK branch.

[Gunnytron]

Support got back to me with this:
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/5435170/

They said they aren't totally sure as there is no info on their system about it, but the stats appear to match.

[Gunnytron]

I finally have success... sort of. I am now getting wheel speed readings from 2 of the wheels, but not the others and there is no need to use resistors.

I suspect I may have fried a component or botched some soldering on the board so I am going to try switching the pins in the socket so that it will narrow down the fault to the wiring or the board. If the board is at fault then I am not sure where to start apart from taking all the components off and starting again... which would suck.

In terms of doing the soldering I learned several things. I did have an issue with the pads lifting off the board several times. This mainly happened when I was using some solder removing braid. It got stuck to the pad and struggled to remove it. The other issue I had was buying cheap soldering irons. They got oxidised the first time I used them and I had to keep scraping them with a blade. They weren't very good at transferring heat.

Then there are a few places where there is next to no room to get the soldering iron where I need it.

[Cobranut]

Gunny,

A hint for keeping your soldering iron tips in good shape.
Don't wipe the solder off after using it, as the solder helps protect against oxidation.
Wipe it on a damp sponge just before tinning and using it, then leave the solder on it.

Yes, it can be a bit tricky using the solder braid.  I try to get it hot, then wipe it gently across the pad with the iron to clean it off.

Glad to hear you're making progress. 

[Gunnytron]

FIXED!

I had 2 of the resistors running left to right instead of top to bottom