4 channel ABS

[paul_3rdgen]

It’s Sunday!  While the kids are eating, I’m laying out my fittings, pressure sensors, and pump.  Checking I have everything I need.  I’m going to make a good list, I haven’t decided whether I will make kits yet but I will lay it out for everyone to follow along. 
So far I know you need 6 bulkhead fittings, 4 brake line adapters for the pressure sensors, and the rest of the fittings will be listed as I go.  I’m using all aluminum fittings where possible, they have tube nuts and tube flares which will make for less flaring needed. 




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[Cobranut]

I'm not sure aluminum fittings are legal for use on brake lines.  Small aluminum fittings are prone to cracking under repeated brake line pressures.
Also, use either steel, stainless steel, or cupronickel lines for brakes.  Copper or aluminum lines won't handle the pressures involved.
I've found the cupronickel line is very easy to bend and flare, is very corrosion resistant, and looks nice.
Not sure what the tube flares you referred to are, but compression fittings are also not allowed for brakes.  The tubing can extrude itself out of the ferrule under high pressure, resulting in sudden brake loss. 

This is a great project, but please make sure it's safe above all else.

[Exidous]

100% double flare every fitting. The copper nickel line is super easy to work with and perfect for brakes.

[paul_3rdgen]

Thank you gentlemen!! Noted.  I did buy copper nickel line, 2 rolls.  So looks like I’ll be needing to source some new fittings which shouldn’t be that difficult. 


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[wickedrx7]

One more tip, buy a high quality flare tool, especially for doing double flares. You will thank yourself.

[paul_3rdgen]

http://downstarinc.com/Shop/tuckin-brakes-kit.html

These are the fittings I bought.  Just thinking.  Do i use them? And single flare the line where it goes to aluminum fitting?  And use metal everywhere else?  I have all the bulkhead fittings in aluminum with all the brake line ends in aluminum that go to the bulkhead fittings.  I’ll snap pics tonight


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[Exidous]

I would avoid AN completely if possible. It's just not meant for that pressure. Double flare everywhere is a must. Aluminum is just too soft on the fittings.

Second the quality flare tool. I used a cheap one prior and for a couple lines it's fine. For a project like yours get a quality unit that can be held in a vise.

[paul_3rdgen]

Not to say your wrong but I can’t see why AN fittings wouldn’t work.  That’s basically what all flex brake line fittings are.  I’m thinking a combination of different things to make a clean and serviceable setup.  Yes safety first, and I truly appreciate all the feedback.  It helps get things done right the first time. 


https://www.hotrod.com/articles/selecting-installing-brake-system-components-proper-plumbing-pointers/

Found this article. 

These two pics explain what I’m trying to do






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[digitalsolo]

I have bunches of AN lines in my braking system.  Cunifer lines and steel fittings, 37* flare with steel tube nuts.   Never had an issue and they were sold by Russell as brake line parts.

I like steel fittings as it helps set the flare on the line when I torque them down.

[Cobranut]

Nothing wrong with steel AN fittings for brakes.  They're all over my race car.
It's the aluminum that can be an issue.

[Exidous]

It's not that it's AN. I would just NEVER use a single flare on brake components. Maybe it's just IMO but all the OE's use double flare. If it's safe enough for them to not get sued into bankruptcy it's what I'll do.

[paul_3rdgen]

I’m taking everything into careful consideration.  And I’m probably going to switch to steel bulkhead fittings (AN) no other way to do it cleanly, and steel tube nuts with tube sleeves for all AN connections.  All other connections will be done with double flare as Mazda did it.  This is all custom and do go from exterior to interior there is no easy way other then the bulkhead fittings.  Well no way for me to do it currently, as my machining days ended about 10 years ago.  I might have to use a couple of short flex lines but I will avoid that if I can. 


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[Cobranut]

I’m taking everything into careful consideration.  And I’m probably going to switch to steel bulkhead fittings (AN) no other way to do it cleanly, and steel tube nuts with tube sleeves for all AN connections.  All other connections will be done with double flare as Mazda did it.  This is all custom and do go from exterior to interior there is no easy way other then the bulkhead fittings.  Well no way for me to do it currently, as my machining days ended about 10 years ago.  I might have to use a couple of short flex lines but I will avoid that if I can. 


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I don't think a double flare would work for the AN joints anyway, and that type of fitting and sleeve is designed to work with a 37 degree single flare.
Any 45 degree brake flare fittings must be double-flared though, to prevent cracking of the tube at the flare itself.
Good choice going with steel though.  I'd hate to hear any brake failure stories on here, especially with the performance potential of these cars.

[paul_3rdgen]

I was lucky to borrow a good flaring tool for the 45 degree double flares, I’m purchasing a decent 37 degree tool for the single flare AN fittings and I’m hoping to make it to my favourite hydraulic shop local to me tomorrow to get the steel bulkhead fittings and tube nuts with sleeves.  The guys that own the place are a wealth of knowledge and they will definitely lead me in the right direction. 

Again, I want to do this right and I do appreciate all the input.  And if I can turn this into an easier install kit I will.  I don’t mind helping if I can. 


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[cholmes]

FWIW, I had a 45* double flared steel brake line crack at the flare on a road race car years ago, had to do a quick double brake pump for every corner to finish the race. Replaced with 37* AN flare, sleeve, tube nut, and fitting, never had another problem, and have used AN stuff on race and street cars ever since with no problems. Definitely never any aluminum lines or fittings in brake systems though.