June 06, 2020, 03:24:50 AM

Author Topic: DIY Paint Job Advice  (Read 948 times)

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2020, 06:47:33 PM »
I put a good amount of time and money into trying to make the vinyl work, but about all I have to show for it are 35 remaining feet of vinyl on a roll that's likely going to get thrown away lol. I watched TONS of videos, practiced on some smaller and easier panels, and still royally messed up wrapping my car.
Here's my #1 issue with vinyl - you need experience to plan out how you're going to attack a specific panel. If you choose the wrong path, you'll end up working your way into an irreversible situation where you'll have to start over. And if you mess up a hood twice, you now no longer have enough vinyl to finish the car. There are plenty of people who can figure it out and do beautiful work, I'm just not one of them I guess lol.

When I finished my Cobra back in 2000, I had a company put on the 3M clear bra material to the nose and the front parts of the rear fender flares.

After watching them work to install that stuff, I realized just how much skill it takes to do a quality job.
I imagine vinyl wrap demands similar skills.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline sciff5

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2020, 07:00:36 PM »
All the time and money is in the prep. Get it in primer to 400 grit and work on finding a reasonable painter looking for side work to take it from there.
Tape and spray doesn't take that long if the whole car is already apart primed and blocked.

If you can't afford the below, hold off till you can. Or have a go at trying to wrap the car yourself, but I can tell you it's a lot harder then it looks

Offline Exidous

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #17 on: May 22, 2020, 07:28:53 PM »
Vinyl over primer is also a little more risky. The adhesive is designed for smooth surfaces. I've had friends that wrapped primer only to have it pull up the paint due to extreme adhesion.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #18 on: May 23, 2020, 10:57:43 AM »
Vinyl over primer is also a little more risky. The adhesive is designed for smooth surfaces. I've had friends that wrapped primer only to have it pull up the paint due to extreme adhesion.

That's a big problem, especially since vinyl needs to be replaced every few years.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline sciff5

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #19 on: May 23, 2020, 08:56:05 PM »
I would imagine that removing vinyl that has basically bonded it's self to primer would be similar to the type of horrific nightmare I ran into trying to remove autoflex (platidip with a chemically resistant clear coat) from primer.
I'll give you the cliffs, it almost totalled the car

Offline fastfalcon94

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #20 on: May 25, 2020, 08:04:59 AM »
I painted a 3000gt about 10 years ago. It was my first time and it came out really well. It is a lot of work. You don't need a paint booth. Clean your garage well, blow it out, put a fan in one window blowing outward and crack a window open on the other side. When it comes time to spray wet the floor down. Watch some youtube videos on how to adjust your gun and how to mix paint. My paint had 2 pearls in it so it was pricey but I didn't need as much as I thought because when you add the reducer/hardener the amount I bought basically double.

When I did mine, I stripped it to bare metal, epoxy primered whole car, added bondo in a few places for some dings, added glazing butty on top of that. Epoxy primered over those spots I had butty. Added high build primer over whole car. Block sanded (I think I used 500 or 600 grit). Then added sealer, then paint, then clear. Paint goes on normal. The clear you put on a little thicker. You want it to look wet when you are done the panel. I wetsanded with 1500 grit then buffed in 3 stages (wool pad, polish pad, swirl remover pad) using the 3m stage 1,2,3 compound. 24 hours after applying clear it will buff the easiest. But if its your first time you may want to wait a few days so it's less risky to burn through anywhere. Go easy on the edges, let the buffer just float with it's own weight and don't put any pressure on it when doing an edge.

I think if you are doing black you may want to block sand it with an even finer grit like 600-800. Over time the primer will shrink despite what the can says. On darker colors it's possible that the block sanding marks will become more visible over time. The longer you can wait after the high build primer the better. Spray it, pull it outside in the sun for a week, then block sand.

And pull everything. If there is a seal, don't mask it... pull it. Make sure when spraying you get into all the edges too like the inner lips on fenders, bumpers that wrap into the wheel wells. When you spray pay attention to where the compressor hose is. I kept mine wrapped around my back so there was zero risk of it bumping into anything.

Offline largeorangefont

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #21 on: May 25, 2020, 09:41:02 PM »
Do the prep yourself and have Maaco or someone like that do the paint job.

Those guys make their money on the prep labor. Their painters are usually pretty good and do the same basic procedure for the paint process no matter what car or “package” they are painting.


That is what I learned paining my car. Best bang for the buck by far for you to prep and have a pro paint it in their pro level facility.



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Offline shainiac

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #22 on: May 26, 2020, 07:47:31 AM »
Thanks for all the valuable info, guys!
I've bought a bunch of prep gear and starting scuffing and blocking the car this weekend. Once all the shine was off of the car, it was much more apparent how many dents and low spots I have  :banghead:
I have a couple recommendations from friends in the area that have had paint work done. The nearest Maaco to me is nearly an hour away and has a 2-star review on Google lol. I've never used a Maaco, so no clue if this is typical and people just need to check their expectations, or if this shop in particular is not great.

Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for what I should expect to pay to have someone spray the car? I'm guessing the painter would want to use whatever materials they're comfortable with, so that may be a big variable. I just want to have a price range in my head so when I get a quote I know if it's reasonable.
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Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #23 on: May 26, 2020, 08:27:08 AM »
Thanks for all the valuable info, guys!
I've bought a bunch of prep gear and starting scuffing and blocking the car this weekend. Once all the shine was off of the car, it was much more apparent how many dents and low spots I have  :banghead:
I have a couple recommendations from friends in the area that have had paint work done. The nearest Maaco to me is nearly an hour away and has a 2-star review on Google lol. I've never used a Maaco, so no clue if this is typical and people just need to check their expectations, or if this shop in particular is not great.

Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for what I should expect to pay to have someone spray the car? I'm guessing the painter would want to use whatever materials they're comfortable with, so that may be a big variable. I just want to have a price range in my head so when I get a quote I know if it's reasonable.

Also decide on a painter, and get his recommendations for prep materials and process.
Your primer and sealer needs to be compatible with the topcoat system.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline sciff5

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #24 on: May 26, 2020, 09:04:30 AM »
Thanks for all the valuable info, guys!
I've bought a bunch of prep gear and starting scuffing and blocking the car this weekend. Once all the shine was off of the car, it was much more apparent how many dents and low spots I have  :banghead:
I have a couple recommendations from friends in the area that have had paint work done. The nearest Maaco to me is nearly an hour away and has a 2-star review on Google lol. I've never used a Maaco, so no clue if this is typical and people just need to check their expectations, or if this shop in particular is not great.

Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for what I should expect to pay to have someone spray the car? I'm guessing the painter would want to use whatever materials they're comfortable with, so that may be a big variable. I just want to have a price range in my head so when I get a quote I know if it's reasonable.


Depends a lot on what paint you go with. The paint it's self can easily be over $1,000, so work with the painter to find something that you like that's not expensive.

Offline largeorangefont

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #25 on: May 26, 2020, 09:07:26 PM »
FWIW I pained my car with single stage paint from Summit, it was $120 for the gallon of paint, reducer and activator.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #26 on: May 26, 2020, 10:27:10 PM »
FWIW I pained my car with single stage paint from Summit, it was $120 for the gallon of paint, reducer and activator.

How is that paint holding up, particularly with respect to chips and dings?
Still considering it for my racecar.
Thanks.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Venom13132

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #27 on: May 27, 2020, 07:46:27 AM »
anyone on here use products from Eastwood?  I am getting ready to primer/paint my engine bay with some of their stuff.  I know engine bay isn't as critical as the outside of the car when it comes to technique, conditions, prep.  So I feel like its a good place to learn/start before I tackle the body.   

For the exterior of my car I was planning to use:    (I haven't purchased any of this stuff yet)

https://www.eastwood.com/boulevard-black-basecoat-gallon-kit.html

https://www.eastwood.com/4-1-premium-show-clear-kit-5-quarts.html

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-gray-epoxy-primers.html


The engine bay I am using (I have purchased this stuff)

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-black-epoxy-primers.html

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-underhood-black-paint.html


On the body of the car I am going to have area's of bare metal (grinding off the rock guard on the bottom of the car), areas of fiberglass, some body filler spots to mold in the rear fender overs, and areas of sanded down factory paint.  So from what I can tell the Epoxy primers are the way to go.   

I am planning on doing this in my "shop".  I have put plastic sheet on the top of the shop to keep dust from falling on the car.  I plan on kind of making a curtain around the engine bay and using a house filter for the "in" and some box fans for the out.  I may put a house filter on them as well.   

The guns I am going to use are some Low CFM guns.  They only need 3.5cfm at 30psi and my 26 gallon compressor puts out 4.5cfm at 90psi.  Hopefully this will be enough.   

After reading though all of these posts I am tempted to just do the interior and engine bay myself and do all the prep/ prime myself then pass it off for the paint.  Since I am doing black and I don't want any orange peel in the paint.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
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Offline digitalsolo

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #28 on: May 27, 2020, 08:21:43 AM »
I used Eastwood Epoxy primer + final poly filler primer on my car.   No complaints thus far.   It was in epoxy for ~18 months (stored inside in my garage).    I did use Rust Defender (https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender) for the main filler/sanding coat because it had rave reviews and it was really, really good.   Went on thick and consistent and sanded really easy.

I also have Eastwood ceramic chassis black (version 2 or whatever, the newer one) in my engine bay and it has held up well.    FWIW, I used TCP Global for the top coat/clear coat and was very happy with them.   I've used them for a couple projects and had zero complaints.
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Offline Venom13132

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #29 on: May 27, 2020, 09:08:31 AM »
I used Eastwood Epoxy primer + final poly filler primer on my car.   No complaints thus far.   It was in epoxy for ~18 months (stored inside in my garage).    I did use Rust Defender (https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender) for the main filler/sanding coat because it had rave reviews and it was really, really good.   Went on thick and consistent and sanded really easy.

I also have Eastwood ceramic chassis black (version 2 or whatever, the newer one) in my engine bay and it has held up well.    FWIW, I used TCP Global for the top coat/clear coat and was very happy with them.   I've used them for a couple projects and had zero complaints.

That rust filler sounds like good stuff but it is spendy! $$    Did you do anything to your car to seal it or what not while it sat in primer for 18 months?  I have a feeling my car would sit for a bit once primered before I get a round to a top coat.


edit*
https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=all-u-need

this stuff looks pretty awesome for priming the car.  Again its a bit pricey and only comes in 4 Gallon orders.  But for my car which will be a mess of different surface finishes and may sit for weeks at a time between steps this could be worth it.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2020, 09:31:03 AM by Venom13132 »
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 4x4 winter beater, pulls my 18' car hauler
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver