September 29, 2020, 10:49:19 AM

Author Topic: DIY Paint Job Advice  (Read 5602 times)

Offline largeorangefont

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #30 on: May 27, 2020, 10:16:25 AM »
FWIW I pained my car with single stage paint from Summit, it was $120 for the gallon of paint, reducer and activator.

How is that paint holding up, particularly with respect to chips and dings?
Still considering it for my racecar.
Thanks.

So far I am very pleased!

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Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #31 on: May 27, 2020, 11:19:33 AM »
FWIW I pained my car with single stage paint from Summit, it was $120 for the gallon of paint, reducer and activator.

How is that paint holding up, particularly with respect to chips and dings?
Still considering it for my racecar.
Thanks.

So far I am very pleased!

Thanks.
If my cousin ever gets caught up, I'm ready to take him the body. Lol
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Exidous

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #32 on: May 27, 2020, 12:47:47 PM »
If you can avoid it, don't leave it in primer. It's rather good at absorbing many things you don't want in your paint.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline Venom13132

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #33 on: May 27, 2020, 02:58:04 PM »
If you can avoid it, don't leave it in primer. It's rather good at absorbing many things you don't want in your paint.

yeah that was my concern.  But you can do a seal coat on the primer??  I just don't see a situation where I can do everything in a short amount of time.  I really only have every other Friday to work on it.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
2010 Cadillac Escalade: Daily Driver and pulls my 18' car hauler

Offline shainiac

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #34 on: May 27, 2020, 03:23:12 PM »
Wouldn't you be able to just scuff the primer later down the road right before you paint the car? Or is the concern that the primer can absorb junk all the way to bare metal?

Side note, I started prepping my car this week and found that most of the driver's door needed taken down to bare metal. It looks like age/sun has shrank the paint and primer to the point that it had crazing. I figured this was no big deal since it was small enough for primer and paint to fill/level. Once I started scuffing with a DA, the crazing turned out to be cracking. As I kept sanding, the cracks were actually rust on the bare metal under the primer. There are hundreds of little threads of rust alll under the paint on the door  :banghead:
Most of the problem area is taken down to bare metal.
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
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Offline Venom13132

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #35 on: May 27, 2020, 03:48:28 PM »
https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=all-u-need


"ALL-U-NEED Ultimate Hi-Build, One Step, Polyester Primer-Surfacer-Sealer �Finishing System� is available in Light Gray, Dark Gray, Tan, White and Red. It replaces metal prep, etching primer, primer-surfacer and sealer. Containing 86% solids, it sands easily with no shrinkage. No recoat time, no sanding prior to recoating and no sanding after long periods of air dry, it sands the same after two years. Waterproof and solvent proof, self-etching to all ferrous and non-ferrous metals, fiberglass and wood, it is compatible with all paints and primers as well as repairs hail damage. As with our other innovative product ideas, a guide coat was developed within this product. The guide coat allows users to easily detect low or high areas in their panels.

This stuff looks like it can be left for quite some time with no issues.  It seems expensive to me though.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
2010 Cadillac Escalade: Daily Driver and pulls my 18' car hauler

Offline Exidous

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #36 on: May 27, 2020, 03:59:01 PM »
Ya, you can use a sealer. Normal primer can indeed pull stuff all the way to the metal or etching primer underneath.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #37 on: May 27, 2020, 07:12:34 PM »
Epoxy primers aren't UV stable, but they're not permeable, so they can be nice if you need to leave it in primer for a while.   I still wouldn't drive it around for a year that way or anything though.

I had mine in epoxy and it was fine but it was in the garage the whole time.  Clausen stuff is really good, but it is a little spendy.   The Rust Defender stuff sands sooooo nice though.    When I was ready to paint, I scuffed the epoxy, then coated it with the Rust Defender, then blocked that out, did a little body work, did a light poly primer (Eastwood) on top of that, final sanded that, then shot base/clear.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #38 on: May 27, 2020, 08:23:36 PM »
The Clausen stuff does seem expensive, but considering you only need one product, you could potentially eliminate a lot of waste by not having 4 or 5 partial cans of various products left over after a job.
Overall, it may not be that expensive, as long as it works as well as they tout.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Venom13132

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #39 on: May 28, 2020, 08:14:38 AM »
The Clausen stuff does seem expensive, but considering you only need one product, you could potentially eliminate a lot of waste by not having 4 or 5 partial cans of various products left over after a job.
Overall, it may not be that expensive, as long as it works as well as they tout.

yeah that's what i was thinking.  I did some research on some autobody forums and people on those sites say don't buy the hype on it.  But none of those people replying were first time painters.   I like what eastwood offers based on cost and support. 
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
2010 Cadillac Escalade: Daily Driver and pulls my 18' car hauler

Offline shainiac

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #40 on: June 23, 2020, 03:39:40 PM »
Little bit of an update: Because I'm stubborn and cheap, I've been working towards painting everything myself. I really hope that ignoring everyone's smart advice doesn't bite me in the ass lol.
It mostly boils down to me wanting to try something new and also being able to say I did it myself. By no means do I expect it to look as good as if I paid a professional and I'm fine with that. I still want to be able to park the thing wherever and not worry about getting a scratch or ding and If I spent good money having it painted, I know I'd be a diva about it.

Anyways, the bodywork is finished, with the exception of some fiberglass work to the front bumper. All the Bondo work has been blocked out and looks and feels pretty nice. I gave the car a thorough washing last weekend and blew everything down with a backpack blower to get the car as clean as possible before getting solvent wiped before primer. I also cleaned and vacuumed the garage and pressurewashed the floors. I went as far as to shopvac just about every horizontal surface I could get to to minimize any dust that could blow around.

Next steps are to build a little mini-booth with scrap lumber and plastic sheeting. I plan on doing a positive-pressure setup with filter box fans and filtered exhausts out the garage doors.
I have about 13'x24' of room to work with. I thought about buying one of those Amazon $100 20'x10' wedding tents to chop up and use as a booth, but 10' seems a bit too narrow.
Anyone have any suggestions?

For spraying, I ended up buying a Fuji Spray Semi-Pro2 system. I found some good reviews of people painting cars with them and so far I'm happy with it. A buddy gave me a junk Silverado fender that I've been practicing with. At this point I've sprayed it with primer, base, mid, and clear 4 different times lol. I'm really happy I did, every try has turned out prettier and quicker. Some pictures of test spray #3 are below. I think I'm going to tame down the mid coat some so it'll be a little closer to the black base color. I'm using all Speedokote products. It's definitely not high-end stuff by any means, but it's supposed to be good bang for the buck. So far everything seems fairly easy to use. Biggest challenge has been keeping things clean between coats. I've been spraying the test parts in an open garage with an exhaust fan. I wouldn't expect to be able to keep stuff clean like that, it was more out of necessity since I didn't have the space setup for a booth yet.

So far, I have about $1000 invested total. That includes $439 for the sprayer system on Amazon, $345 for 5qt 2k urethane primer, 1 gal jet black base, 1 gal thinner, 1 gal blender for the midcoat/flake, and 5qt clear coat. Plus about $200 for all the abrasives, bondo, solvents, rags, tape, panel stands...

Right now, the clear coat is mildly orange-peely. I'm not expecting a show car finish, but I also don't want to spend a week wet sanding the car. After re-reading the spray system manual, they recommend a 1.0mm top for clear and I'd been using a 1.3mm, so I ordered a 1.0 to try.

The pearl is Paint with Pearls Black Emerald Candy. My test pieces have shown it to be much more gunmetal/grey than their photos. Still on the fence whether I want to keep it or just stick to black base+clear.
https://www.paintwithpearl.com/shop/candy-pearl-paint-colors/metallic-paint-candy-pearl-paint-colors-candy-pearl-paint-colors/black-emerald-candy-pearl/

The current color is a bit too much and I plan on spraying one more test fender with a lighter pearl mix. I'm trying to get away without respraying the jams and hatch,  so I wan't the car to looks mostly black, just not as boring as a Model T lol.

Current blend, 1g pearl per 4oz sprayable mid coat. Looks pretty much black when not in direct sunlight. Still a bit too grey for my tastes, I think.


Left: straight out of the gun. Ignore the run, I forgot to turn the air on lol. Right is with a quick wet sand and buff.


Straight out of the gun


Ready for etch primer on bare metal and high build for the entire car

'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline Exidous

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #41 on: June 23, 2020, 11:18:27 PM »
Glad you're liking the turbine. It's laying pretty well for only a couple practices. The only thing I've found is you may need a tad more thinner since the air coming out is a tad warm.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline shainiac

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #42 on: June 24, 2020, 07:57:46 AM »
Thanks! Good tip with the extra thinner. I'm kind of in a pickle currently. I bought Medium reducer and catalyst for 65-80F, but it's been unseasonably warm and in the low mid-80s. I've been keeping my garage closed up so it stays as dust-free as possible and it's 85F+ by the time I'm off work every day  :banghead:
I'm ready for a cold front to come through and knock the heat out.

Does anyone have any suggestions on spraying the whole car assembled vs. with the bumpers/fenders removed? I pulled everything off for body work and figured I'd spray it off to do a more thorough job. Now I'm worried that the color or quality won't match from doors to fender or fender to bumper.
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #43 on: June 24, 2020, 08:02:07 AM »
Paint the jambs and inner areas of the doors/fenders, then assemble and spray the whole thing that way.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Cobranut

Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« Reply #44 on: June 24, 2020, 06:37:46 PM »
Paint the jambs and inner areas of the doors/fenders, then assemble and spray the whole thing that way.

I agree with Blake.  Metallic or pearl paint will lay differently depending on the orientation of the part and the angle it's sprayed at.
Having the panels mounted prevents it from showing up at the seams.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.