May 19, 2019, 06:54:30 PM

Author Topic: Widebody Rivet question  (Read 1166 times)

Offline Venom13132

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Widebody Rivet question
« on: March 11, 2019, 11:57:30 AM »
I have a full feed wide body kit  and my plan is to mold in the rear fender overs.  I am going to cut weld and seal the fender wells.  My question is.  I have an event that I need the fenders on for but I wont have time to mold or paint them before.  I need them on the car and permanently is fine.
 
So should I rivet them on or just use a body panel adhesive?  What rivet gun and rivet kit should I get?

Thanks
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2019, 01:15:47 PM »
I like bolts with rubber well nuts, personally.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Supe

Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2019, 01:39:39 PM »
Mine are permanently riveted.  Just make sure you have a long enough reach for any angled areas.  They'll be a PITA to drill out when you're done, though.

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2019, 02:43:36 PM »
so it shouldn't hurt to have them riveted on then in the fall I can just glass/bondo them in permanently and leave the rivets? 


Have any links to what kind of rivets/rivet gun I should get?
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline Supe

Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2019, 05:36:53 PM »
No, do not leave the rivets. They will push out and crack and ruin your paint job. Consider whatever you do this weekend as temporary and remove completely when you do the body work.

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #5 on: March 12, 2019, 06:38:24 AM »
No, do not leave the rivets. They will push out and crack and ruin your paint job. Consider whatever you do this weekend as temporary and remove completely when you do the body work.

would some like 3m body panel adhesive be better then?  I'm fine with temporary till I get a chance to do full paint job and if I don't have to go back and drill out rivets and fill holes that would be a plus.   I have seen a few cars with the rears painted but not riveted or molded in so I am guessing they used some sort of adhesive.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #6 on: March 12, 2019, 07:33:01 AM »
http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instructions/WideBodyInstruction.pdf

I found this pdf looks like what I should do here.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline Exidous

Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #7 on: March 12, 2019, 08:18:22 AM »
Body panel adhesive would probably be worse than rivets. That stuff is strong enough to pull up even the best bonded paint.
94 BB SBE LS1 Full Mamo top, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and another custom dual 2.5" stainless exhaust. Too loud, need bigger muffler....

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #8 on: March 12, 2019, 09:27:55 AM »
Body panel adhesive would probably be worse than rivets. That stuff is strong enough to pull up even the best bonded paint.

Well I would take it down to the metal like the instructions suggest and fully prep/finish the under side of the fender.  So this would be a permanent install.  Which is fine.  I will just have to come back and do the fill in bondo and finishing when its time to paint.  That sound like the correct route?
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline Supe

Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #9 on: March 12, 2019, 12:45:11 PM »
Yes, but be prepared to prime the bare metal soon after the adhesive has cured.

Also, the Panel Bond cartridges are pretty small, so make sure you have enough on hand for a pair of fenders. 

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2019, 01:27:25 PM »
Yes, but be prepared to prime the bare metal soon after the adhesive has cured.

Also, the Panel Bond cartridges are pretty small, so make sure you have enough on hand for a pair of fenders. 

good to know.  I just have to do the rear two fenders but I will buy more than I think I need.  Yeah I will get the bare metal covered asap.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline Exidous

Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2019, 09:12:36 PM »
You can use an etching primer before any Bondo or adhesive to slow rust. Just have to remember it will absorb liquids as it's designed to be porous. But it will give you a lot more time to work before you seal it.
94 BB SBE LS1 Full Mamo top, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and another custom dual 2.5" stainless exhaust. Too loud, need bigger muffler....

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #12 on: March 13, 2019, 08:17:54 AM »
For sealing:

https://www.eastwood.com/2k-areo-spray-epoxy-primer-black-47967.html

This stuff is nice because it's water proof and a really solid base to work off of later.  It is NOT fully UV resistant though, so a long time in the sun without something over top is no bueno.     It'll prevent rust 100% though.   It's proper 2K in a can, which is great, but also means that once you pop the can and mix the parts, you can't leave it on the shelf for weeks/months and use it again.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Offline Venom13132

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #13 on: March 13, 2019, 09:13:56 AM »
For sealing:

https://www.eastwood.com/2k-areo-spray-epoxy-primer-black-47967.html

This stuff is nice because it's water proof and a really solid base to work off of later.  It is NOT fully UV resistant though, so a long time in the sun without something over top is no bueno.     It'll prevent rust 100% though.   It's proper 2K in a can, which is great, but also means that once you pop the can and mix the parts, you can't leave it on the shelf for weeks/months and use it again.

nice.  I have looked into that stuff before.  I will likely use something like this.  I probably wont get around to it till May.
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: LS6 Intake, Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, Ray's Gram Lights, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut Gauges, Aeromotive fuel pump
2000 Ford Excursion - V10 Tow monster
2006 BMW 650i - 4.8l V8 6-Speed Manual - Daily Driver

Offline paul_3rdgen

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Re: Widebody Rivet question
« Reply #14 on: March 17, 2019, 04:17:53 PM »
Iím late to the party but if your using the feed rear over quarters, there is no need to cut anything!  Just need a very aggressive roll, which gets the metal fender to meet the Fibreglass over fender.  Much better imo, cutting and welding usually just creates a rust spot.  Not to say it canít be done right but in this Situation I donít see the need. Iím currently running 295ís in the rear but I could easily fit 315ís with the right offset wheel.


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