July 16, 2020, 12:18:45 PM

Author Topic: New Member with some swap questions  (Read 2634 times)

Offline Cobranut

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #15 on: November 30, 2019, 11:45:05 PM »
What DDV8 describes is very similar to my setup.  The stock hard line has an AN-6 adapter fitting attached, and AN -6 hose runs from there to the Corvette filter/regulator beside the clutch master cylinder, then another adapter to run AN -6 to the fuel rail.

I highly recommend sticking with AN fittings throughout your fuel system, for safety's sake. Fuel leaks and the resulting fire can be devastating and sometimes deadly.  :o
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #16 on: December 01, 2019, 08:55:30 PM »
Thanks for the reply fellows!  Greatly appreciated.  Per your advice, I'm going with an Earls 10 Micron setup that uses 6-ORB fittings.  So my latest revision for the feed line is:

5/16 hard line to 6AN adapter
30'' braided stainless line (-6AN to -6AN)
6AN to 6-ORB 90 deg elbow
Fuel Filter
6-ORB to 6AN to 90 deg elbow
short section of braided stainless line (-6AN to -6AN)
6AN to 6-ORB adapter into fuel pressure regulator.

Does this sound ok, or are there to many elbows for good pressure?  Due to limited space, I'm going to have to keep the return line rubber.  It's going to be too difficulty to try to get a AN adapter to the hardline.

Speaking of that Cobranut, when you put your hardline to 6AN adapter, did you use a small pipe cutting too to do it?  I assume the procedure is to cut it off right behind the first barb of the pipe?  There is still gas in the tank so I'm a little concerned about using a hacksaw to do it.

Thanks!!
Brandon
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline DDv8

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #17 on: December 01, 2019, 09:46:42 PM »
boy that fpr location is familiar

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I cut both lines about where the arrow is and hard lined up to the fpr.  I have a carb so 4psi across firewall to dead end at carb.

DD
86fc old school 327, T5, converting to 8.8 tbird

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #18 on: December 02, 2019, 08:37:15 PM »
Nice clean setup DD!  I was toying around with the regulator at a few different locations, but every time I came back to that location due to the pre-threaded holes.  Plus it makes sense given where the feed/return lines are and fuel rail.
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline Cobranut

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #19 on: December 03, 2019, 10:06:07 PM »
I didn't do the swap on my car, but if you're going to flare the hard line for the AN adaptor, yes a small tubing cutter will ensure a nice square cut.  Be sure to deburr before flaring.

AN elbows are usually pretty good as far as flow.  The best way is to use 90 degree hose ends which have a larger radius than the elbows.

The return line from the regulator back to the tank will have little pressure, so rubber line and hose clamps should be fine there.

Glad you decided to go this route. 8) I'd hate to see anyone hurt, or their project go up in flames after all the hard work.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #20 on: January 04, 2020, 02:55:10 PM »
Well, I finished running the fuel system.  It didn't turn out too bad.  I did have to use a short section of 3/8'' 100PSI rubber FI hose between the filter and regulator. 

Intake is finished.  Made a custom bracket that is a direct fit from the truck-style MAF to existing factory weld nuts.  Its nice and secure.

Got the clutch mastery cylinder and line bled - what a time consuming PITA.  I still seem to be pulling bubbles out, but the pedal is nice and firm and completely releases the clutch.  An interesting issue arose after the pedal firmed up.  The firewall seemed to flex quite a bit where the MC mounts to the firewall.  So I built two braces between the MC and the strut tower and side.  No more flexing now!

Last bit of work in the engine bay is to wire, foam around the radiator, and trim the underbelly pan.  I'm going to the trouble to put it back on because the radiator sits low and I'm afraid a rock or chip is going to find it's way into it and cause a leak.
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline DDv8

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #21 on: January 06, 2020, 07:23:13 PM »
You need the belly pan for air control anyway, otherwise the hot air will cycle from the engine side to the front when slow/stopped super heating the rad.

DD
86fc old school 327, T5, converting to 8.8 tbird

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #22 on: January 29, 2020, 08:28:28 PM »
Didn't know the physics behind that DD.  Just thought it was to protect road debris from coming up and hitting parts.  My old one was trash so I ordered a new one from Mazda and trimmed it to fit.  I won't tell you how much I paid for it, you'll just laugh and shake your head lol.

I hit a milestone this week and wrapped up all under the hood work.  Woohoo!  Currently working on wiring.  I was wondering.....how does one know if their wiring is correct?  are there any tests that can be done, or is it just cross your fingers and say a prayer when you go to fire it up?  I triple checked all my connections and soldier joints and everything is good.  I'll be purchasing an HP Tuners MPVI Pro shortly.  Any sensor tests I can run with that?

Thanks,
Brandon
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline Venom13132

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2020, 06:45:33 AM »
you can test a lot of the circuits with a multi-meter as you finish them  But it is a bit of a "pull and pray"
1995 RX-7 - LS1, T56: Feed wide body, Feed CF Side skirts, 57DR 18's, K-Sport coilovers, 99 spec\ tails and spoiler, SpeedHut, Aeromotive, TwinZ Diffuser
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Offline digitalsolo

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #24 on: January 30, 2020, 09:18:30 AM »
I have maps (or factory diagrams for stock stuff) and I check every lead end to end with a multimeter for continuity/loss and I typically check that the grounds and hot leads aren't crossed up.   Then let it rip and see if anything seems grumpy.

FWIW, when you're doing fully sealed harnesses, you pretty much have to get it right the first time, or it's a real, real bad day.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
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Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #25 on: February 02, 2020, 01:56:39 PM »
Thanks fellows,

I did print pages and pages of circuit maps for all the sensors, power distribution, grounds, and other miso circuits.  So far so good with the DMM.  Quite the mundane task though....check circuit for continuity, check for bleed to ground, check off wire on the list...on and on.  Not enough beer for this task :grin: Speaking of which, I was puttin a few cool ones down when fabing one of the ECU harness and messed up.  Lesson learned - don't drink and wire!

I was hoping to power up the ECU and plug a tuner in and run a diagnostic run.  But it sounds like no such animal exists.  The harness is sealed up well with electrical tape, conduit, and heat tape in the area where the passenger side header runs real close to the firewall.

Gettin closer and closer though!
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #26 on: April 20, 2020, 09:39:13 PM »
Update fellows....But not a good one at all.  When to prime the oil system tonight.  About 40 seconds after pumping, oil starts pouring out of the bell housing!  Needles to say, it's going back to the guy that put it together!  The garden sprayer I used is only good for about 45PSI, so I'd hate to see what the oil pump would have done.  Without tearing it down I'm guessing rear main?  Anyone else ever have this happen to them?  I hope it didn't coat my brand new LS7 clutch disk either.  Sometimes when it rains it pours.....
90GXL LS1/T56

Offline Cobranut

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #27 on: April 20, 2020, 10:48:39 PM »
Update fellows....But not a good one at all.  When to prime the oil system tonight.  About 40 seconds after pumping, oil starts pouring out of the bell housing!  Needles to say, it's going back to the guy that put it together!  The garden sprayer I used is only good for about 45PSI, so I'd hate to see what the oil pump would have done.  Without tearing it down I'm guessing rear main?  Anyone else ever have this happen to them?  I hope it didn't coat my brand new LS7 clutch disk either.  Sometimes when it rains it pours.....

That's a good idea using a garden sprayer.  8)

If oil is "pouring" out from the bellhousing area, I'd almost bet the builder forgot the o-ring at the rear of the block where the barbell is inserted.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline Exidous

Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #28 on: April 21, 2020, 02:29:17 PM »
That barbell o-ring is still behind the rear cover. I'm going with the rear cover gasket is missing or jacked since is has the lifter crossover at the top.
A rear main seal probably wouldn't pour out.
94 BB Sleeved gen IV LS7, MS3ProU with TC, RONIN 8.8 and LT's with custom 3.5"single to VAREX muffler.

Offline N3BP

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Re: New Member with some swap questions
« Reply #29 on: April 21, 2020, 09:04:29 PM »
Yeah the garden sprayer was a clever idea I read about over at LS1Tech.  The car is going back next week.  It definitely has to be something under the bell housing because I checked at the back of the engine on top and everything is dry.  I'll keep you updated on the cause.......

Thanks!
90GXL LS1/T56