March 23, 2019, 04:33:30 PM

Author Topic: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build  (Read 1084 times)

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2019, 10:32:23 PM »
I like the overheating gauge.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline PeakAlpha

Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #16 on: February 09, 2019, 11:05:36 PM »
I like the overheating gauge.

All the girlies do.

Offline PeakAlpha

Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #17 on: March 02, 2019, 11:16:04 PM »
HOKAY, so. Now that the car was actually started, I decided to put a fuse box in and start cleaning up the ol’ rat’s nest that is the inevitable result of any project car on this level. So I went and bought a dick-ton of loom, and started wrapping wires. This is the nicely loomed wire and my junkyard Blazer fuse box. I also put my hand in there for the arousal factor.



I was surfing around on this one site called NoRotors, and found an oil cooler that somebody was selling and decided to buy it. Because why not? If I recall, it is a stock FD RX7 oil cooler (someone else can probably confirm by looking at it), and the dude had tacked some mounts on it that still work. Not super sexy, but it works fine and I have had no problems with it so far.



Next I decided to mount my battery. I chose to put it behind the passenger seat. One could argue that shifting more mass to the rear would be more desirable, but this will put it closer to the center of rotation of the car and it just fits nicely right in there so I went with it. It is shown in a crappy Marine battery box that I got from Poop’s Hardware or something, but I eventually got a nice Moroso box with a tube to vent the fumes to underneath the car. I guess batteries tend to off-gas, so there is a stipulation in the NASA rules about venting it. ANYWAYS here is the battery. Sorry for the grainy bullshit



Now I was starting to work towards getting this stupid thing drive-able. I decided to mount up my gauges using some steel plate. I have two big problems as a fabricator. #1, I have little to no skills when it comes to fabricating, and #2 I am aesthetically retarded. So this is what my first cut at it came out like. I actually screwed up and cut only 5 holes  for 6 gauges, and then tried to fix it, so that is why the three gauges are clustered so closely together on the right side. On a side note, do NOT purchase hole saws from China. I got through like two holes and the blade was already junk. I think they must make their steel from a Gorilla’s dick cheese or some shit. The little piece of plate on top of the steering column mount is for the tachometer. I used the cross-brace that was originally designed to mount the dash, but obviously without the dash



Next step was to get the driver seat mocked up so that I could figure out where I needed to mount it so that I was comfortable in there. I ended up with a Kirkey aluminum seat with side-bolsters for my helmet. It works pretty good. I am 6’2”, so this damn coffin is not exactly the most comfortable fit for me. I ended up mounting the seat pretty darn far back. About as far back as it could physically get with the roll cage in there. Even with that, I still can easily manipulate the pedals, and my knee just misses the bottom of the steering wheel on my heel-toe motion. The only thing that kind of sucks is that roll bar padding on the side of the halo tube interferes with my helmet when I am sitting in there, so it pushes my head to the right a little bit. I took that piece of padding off for now and it barely leaves enough room for my head to be straight while I am sitting in there. Turns out being tall blows Donkeys for racecars. Anyways, here is a picture of me trying out the fitment on the harness. Deeeeelishuss.



Aaaaaaand here is some dickweed in his unfinished racecar. Some day I will be able to exceed the speed limit in this thing.



But for now I was just pretty damn happy to be making progress. A lot goes into building any car, as most of you well know. And keep in mind that I am doing just the barest, most simplified version of this whole thing. No interior, no AC, no heat, none of that garbage. Just a boy and his dream of pissing off the neighbors with his open-header V8.

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #18 on: March 04, 2019, 01:12:22 PM »
I feel like your current windshield will make it hard to see the apexes well.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline PeakAlpha

Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #19 on: March 09, 2019, 07:39:53 PM »
I feel like your current windshield will make it hard to see the apexes well.

I dunno man, that sh*t is KUSTUMMM!!!!!

But yeah I taped trash bags on there to paint the interior. It's pretty high-end  :barf:

Offline PeakAlpha

Re: "Doda" '93 FD NASA TT Build
« Reply #20 on: March 11, 2019, 10:53:50 PM »
I started putting some finishing touches on the car at this point. I painted the brake calipers red with some VHT paint from the parts store.



In hindsight, I would not do this again. Brake fluid ends up making the paint run and it just doesn’t matter at all for a race car. Just a pain in the ass for really no benefit. They will shortly end up being covered in brake dust anyhow. I eventually ended up swapping one of my front calipers out because I had a spare and a bleed nipple snapped off in the caliper and would NOT come the Hell out. Then I had the FR caliper painted, and the FL caliper bare aluminum. So I took some brake cleaner to the FR one and tried to get most of the stupid sticky BS paint off of there. Long story short, I now have one pink and one bare metal caliper, so whoopee for me!!! I’m a total tool!!!

Got the fluid reservoirs mounted in the engine bay.



This works fine, although they are BARELY higher that the master cylinders in the cabin, with a big loop in the line which makes getting air bubbles out of that short run of tube kind of a beeotch. Luckily I can just run a short-ish length of tube from the MC outlet back into the reservoir without removing anything, making it super convenient to bench-bleed everything in the car. All-in-all not a bad deal at all.

One weekend I decided to throw the body on the front and see how it looked.



And then got the wheels back on there for the Helluvit and rolled it out into the driveway to see what it would look like





Kind of looks like an off-road vehicle with the stock springs in there. I haven’t weighed the damn thing but I know I have taken a significant amount of weight out of this thing, so perhaps it’s not surprising that it rides so high. JEEEEEEP BRAAAHHH!!!!

She looks pretty good from the right angle however…



Next up was to figure out my throttle cable. I still had the stock FD throttle cable, and I am cheap/too lazy to figure out what I needed to do to get a new throttle cable that would fit the LS1 bracket and the FD throttle pedal. So I said EFF it and made my own bracket with science.



Once I had all of this stuff together, the car was finally drive-able… Well, sort of. The un-tuned car was not really drive-able as the engine would die once any load was put on it. Not being a tuning guru, I decided to make a Dyno appointment. So I found some guy who was willing to do it and got it all scheduled. On the big day, I threw the car on the ol’ trailer and pulled it the 20 minutes down the road to the dyno shop and unloaded the car. Here she is sitting out front in all her glory.



Seeing as how the tune was all sorts of catty-whompus, the tuner dude had trouble getting it up (ha!) on the dyno, but eventually we prevailed and got Doda all strapped in. The guy spent the first part of the session obviously getting the thing drivable. Then he proceeded to some light throttle pulls and then partial throttle pulls. I didn’t get a great video of any WOT pulls because the rear tires were slipping on the dyno drums and he had me and my buddy hop in the trunk to improve the traction. Safety first I guess..? As I get older this is one of those face-palm moments that I always think back on and cringe. So that was sketchy, but here is a decent part-throttle vid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4H54F2W4edQ&feature=youtu.be

On several of the WOT pulls, tuner bro kept asking me about the rev limiter and what I had set it at, and saying that it was too low and whatnot. I had no idea wtf he was talking about at the time, but the reason for his inquisition would become painfully obvious to me later. More on that in a future post. Overall things went really well. I had a bit of oil pooping down the back side of the engine at some point, but it turned out to just be a loose oil pressure sensor so that was super easy to fix. All-in-all it was a success, and I had just a few things to do before I would brave an event. But for now, I was pretty stoked with the result. Car made 343 HP to the rear wheels. The bumpy bullshit at the beginning was when the wheels were slipping on the drum. Not bad for a mostly stock LS1 with straight-through exhaust and a tune.



And that’s it for now Pistards. Gotta wait to see how she did at her first Auto-X. Hope y’all are enjoying this. Thanks to everybody who contributes to this forum for all the information over the years. It has really helped me and countless others I am sure!