March 23, 2019, 01:27:06 PM

Author Topic: Supe's NASCARX-7 (SB2.2 swap)  (Read 4605 times)

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #30 on: August 19, 2018, 05:57:42 PM »
Will snap some pics when the motor comes back out.  A few minutes of cutting/grinding/spot weld drilling got the rack mounts out and relocated.  I shifted it an RCH to the right to help clear the pan (maybe 1/8" or so), with a drop somewhere between 1/2" - 5/8".  The passenger side mount is now located much further outboard, and I ended up cutting some of the aluminum rack bits on the driver's side for pan and crossmember clearance.  Still plenty of meat left for locating the rack, and it gained me a bunch of clearance (a good 1/4" min).  I'm looking at only having to add about 1/2" or so of height to the engine cradle to get the minimum clearance necessary, so I feel pretty good about it.  I suspect the only massaging I will have to do is a better trim job in the tunnel where the T101a heim joint linkages are.  Bellhousing area should stay untouched.

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #31 on: August 21, 2018, 09:55:05 PM »
Got engine cradle tacked together.  Plenty of room for activities now.  I still need to button up the cradle and notch the subframe to clear the factory u joint closest to the steering rack, but no big deal there.  Plan is to get the trans in there just to check clearances before I lock everything in.  I am OK with up to 5 degrees of driveline angle.  If getting the trans in tips me over that point, I will take another 1/8" to 3/16" out of the cradle and button it up.  Passenger side will be tight for headers but I have about 1/2" clearance all around for the 3 1/2" collectors.  Driver's side I can damn near stuff a watermelon through - the perks of external oil pumps!

If you look at the discoloration on the rack tube and the shiny silver part, you can see where the mount was moved outboard and the rack casting ground down.

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #32 on: August 24, 2018, 09:19:25 AM »
Trans juuuuust fits, but engine angle ends up at 5 1/2.  I'm going to section 3/16" back out of the cradle and she should be on the money.  Hoping to have it in so I can send the intake off to Induction Solutions for the EFI conversion before I leave for a cruise in two weeks.

Offline N2v8fcs

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2018, 07:52:43 PM »
nice man!
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #34 on: September 17, 2018, 06:39:58 PM »
Even notching the damn k-member to the max, I'm getting u joint interference.  Going to have to tilt the rack slightly forward for the needed clearance and to take some of the angle out/prevent bind.  Back to work now that the family is back from vacation.  :banghead:

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #35 on: October 25, 2018, 11:22:49 AM »
Hopefully have some pics for you guys soon.  Rack/U-joint now clear everything.  I welded a shim to the rack mount on the driver's side, and modified the upper clamshell bracket on that side to allow the rack to rotate forward.  Just to make sure it never tries to move on me, I drilled the clamshell mount and the aluminum mounting boss on the rack for a set screw.  It's solid as a rock, and gives me just enough clearance that the joint doesn't bind. 

I've started mocking up the headers for the driver's side as well.  Best part about 1 7/8" primaries is that it's nearly the same OD as 1.5" PVC pipe.  It's even a press fit into the header flange.  A great alternative for cheap asses like me who can't afford to buy an ICE engine works kit.

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22475
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #36 on: October 25, 2018, 11:53:52 AM »
Looking forward to pictures.  :D
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #37 on: November 06, 2018, 10:15:40 AM »
Terrible mini-update: header fab has started.  I'm in the process of converting PVC mockup to steel on the driver's side at least.  In one pic you can see the transfer from mock up to bend.  The other pic is a small jig I made for this header tubing.  You lay the tubing over the CAD template, and pin the jig in place.  The jig lets you scribe or mark a line on the header tubing that is perpendicular to the tube in the middle of a radius, and gives you an accurate line to follow on the bandsaw.  I find it way more reliable than the o-ring, bandclamp, etc. methods of getting a straight line at the proper bend angle, and it's a lot cheaper than the plastic tool that costs nearly $700 to achieve the same effect.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Offline gc3

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #38 on: November 06, 2018, 10:41:13 AM »
that's a great tool. i always have just eyeballed off the paper printout, an edge to transfer the straight line makes so much sense! stealing this for the future.

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #39 on: November 06, 2018, 10:54:22 AM »
that's a great tool. i always have just eyeballed off the paper printout, an edge to transfer the straight line makes so much sense! stealing this for the future.

Yep, goes from pretty close to dead nuts on!  Since I don't have a belt or disc sander at home, my goal is not to have to dress any of the edges other than a quick deburr.

Offline freeskier7791

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #40 on: November 06, 2018, 11:29:11 AM »
Cool tool you made!  I struggle to make straight cuts, but I am using a grinder and hacksaw...need to invest in a bandsaw lol

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #41 on: November 06, 2018, 12:20:11 PM »
Cool tool you made!  I struggle to make straight cuts, but I am using a grinder and hacksaw...need to invest in a bandsaw lol

I don't have enough room for a floor stander, so I bought the SWAG portaband stand and use one of the Bauer portabands from Harbor Freight ($99 with coupon).  It is one of the few tools in my garage I really kicked myself for not buying sooner.

Offline freeskier7791

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #42 on: November 06, 2018, 03:01:26 PM »
Cool tool you made!  I struggle to make straight cuts, but I am using a grinder and hacksaw...need to invest in a bandsaw lol

I don't have enough room for a floor stander, so I bought the SWAG portaband stand and use one of the Bauer portabands from Harbor Freight ($99 with coupon).  It is one of the few tools in my garage I really kicked myself for not buying sooner.

Cool that was my plan as well glad to hear that you like it

Offline Supe

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #43 on: November 19, 2018, 10:42:58 AM »
First set of tubes done.  Dry fit confirmed everything stayed where it should during welding.  Hopefully get them tacked into the flange this week so I can trim the tube ends square on the collector end and weld the star/cone into the ends.  It's pretty snug down by the bellhousing area, but with the steering shaft moved a bit outboard, there is tons of room for plug/wire clearance and the center port cooling lines.  Ignore those oil lines, I just haven't yanked the old remote filter setup yet.  Everything will be reworked for use with the external oil pump.


Offline jwvand02

Re: Supe's Engine Swap Thread
« Reply #44 on: November 19, 2018, 10:59:50 AM »
Cool tool you made!  I struggle to make straight cuts, but I am using a grinder and hacksaw...need to invest in a bandsaw lol

I don't have enough room for a floor stander, so I bought the SWAG portaband stand and use one of the Bauer portabands from Harbor Freight ($99 with coupon).  It is one of the few tools in my garage I really kicked myself for not buying sooner.

I was seriously mulling this over the other day. It seems too good for the price to not have