September 15, 2019, 04:03:37 PM

Author Topic: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build  (Read 17594 times)

Online shainiac

Well damn! Looks like that's it. I wonder if I can snip them off without having to pull the hubs and sliding the axles out? I always have a hard time getting the knuckles off the control arms because the little steel sleeves in the knuckles slide in and don't like coming off of the bearings/bushing in the control arms.
Thanks for the heads up.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2019, 04:58:01 PM by shainiac »
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Online largeorangefont

  • Top Fuel
  • Location: So Cal
  • Posts: 6592
  • I steer with the gas pedal.
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
Yea you might be able to trim them off.

As far as the sleeves, unbolting the DTSS and lower bolt then rapping the arm or hub once or twice firmly with a hammer works to seat the sleeves and let the hub pivot up and slide out.
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Online shainiac

I was able to get a bunch of stuff fixed and do some driving this weekend. I ended up entering a car show with my friendsí drag cars and had a good time watching people scratch their heads. They both have low 8-second twin turbo LS cars, an í80 Malibu and a í82 fox body, and theyíre just as ugly as my car lol.

I got the injectors back from cleaning and am pretty sure I need to replace one or two. The guy I had do my injector cleaning is Eric Derr. I HIGHLY recommend him to anyone who needs injector services. He is extremely helpful and reasonably priced. It was $75 shipped to have him flow the injectors upon arrival, clean them, and reflow them. He does a dynamic and static flow test, also. Since my issue was erratic fueling at low pulsewdiths, I had him do the dynamic testing at 1.5ms. He was able to find all the injectors were 60cc/min +/-2cc except for one which was 65cc. All of them were basically dead on at 100%DC. Anyways, one bank burns a little richer, but not as significant as before.

For fun, I whipped together another exhaust without a muffler. I had an extra v-band and some random oval tubing and  made a Nascar-style side exit on the passenger side. Itís definitely too loud to daily, but is fun to make noise on the weekends. Just to be a rice, I pulled a bunch of timing at idle and made the fueling pretty lean to make maximum chop chop. I wish stupid shit like that didnít make me smile like a little kid  :D. Also, a friend was able to get dome boost control working well. The car is a  lot of fun on 9psi now. I think everything is more or less worked out well enough to go on the dyno now.

Removing the dust shields seemed to have fixed the diff leak. Still TBD, but didnít notice any drips after driving around all weekend. I was also able to seat the axles and am no longer able to tug them out by hand. The exhaust is way louder now, but I think the noise from the diff is less now. Less clatter from going 1st-Reverese-1st when trying to park or so it feels.

Video of the new exhaust:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WCEXRbXgTYfBXeFp8






« Last Edit: July 15, 2019, 08:26:11 AM by shainiac »
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Online shainiac

I ditched the sidepipe after a week.  The sound quality of the muffler is much better and I hate feeling like an asshole every time I give the car any throttle.
The cleaned injectors seem better, but one bank that runs richer at low pulsewidths. Iím going to gamble on buying two new injectors and having them flowed by the same guy who did my original injectors to make sure they match.

I tried driving the car to work last week and noticed that it was running SUPER rich Ė air fuels pegged 10:0 at partial throttle, but it would clear up if I gave it some throttle. It turns out that the internal map sensor fitting had broken off the front of the ECU. No really sure how that happened since I drove the car into the garage the night before and didnít touch it until I tried to drive to work the next day. Upon further inspection of the broken fitting, it also had a split on the internal 90* bend. Weird. I bodged a piece of copper tubing to replace the broken fitting and get the car running while DIYAutotune sent me a new fitting and the car ran like crap! I couldnít figure out why the car ran super rich in boost and super rich in high vacuum but perfectly fine at medium-low vacuum. Looking at the data logs, the high vacuum map values in decel were MUCH lower than what I was used to. It would pull close to 10kpa of vac when lifting after a pull when before it might read 30kpa. The car was also hitting boost cut any time I tried to boost the car (after cleaning up the rich AFRs ~ -12% fuel). So, it seems the MAP signal has been leaking for quite some time. I had boost cut set to 9.5psi and the MAP readings I was getting were typically 8.5psi at WOT. Iím guessing boost was probably closer to 11-12psi.  :shocked: Good thing the timing map was very soft and AFRs were pretty rich.




'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22771
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
Wow!   Dodged a bullet with that fitting for sure.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Online shainiac

I finally dyno'd the car yesterday. I had my friend Derek Burton tune the car and he did a great job. We tuned it on pump gas and the local ethanol swill which is around 60-65%. The car made 610whp/572wtq on 12.8psi and pump gas and 715whp/662wtq on 18psi and E55. Very happy with the power it ended up making. The little turbos are definitely out of turbine. EMAP:MAP is over 2:1.
He set the car up for boost, fuel, and ignition blending based on ethanol content so that whenever I put it back on pump gas, it just reverts back to a safe boost level. Very happy with how the car drive and the power than it makes. The biggest takeaway from the day is that I need new rear tires! Second gear rolling burnouts are kinda scary lol.

Moving forward to this morning - I drove about 45 minutes round trip to put more ethanol in the car and fill a couple jugs. It's about 90F and heavy interstate summer traffic. I make it to the gas station and back home with zero issues, the car's running great, and did a couple strong pulls on the drive to and from. I park the car by my mailbox to get the mail and notice there's a trail of fluid from under the car back up the road. After the car sitting for maybe 1 minute, there was a 1'x1' puddle on the pavement! The car is up on jackstands  now but I can't seem to see where the leak is coming from. I'm not sure what started it, considering I drove an hour each way to the dyno yesterday and was on the dyno most of the afternoon and no leaks. Anyone else seen a T56 Mag leak this bad out of the blue? Literally the entire back half of the underbody is soaked and the rear bumper is hazed in trans fluid.


Dyno pull on 15psi
https://youtu.be/UGhw39bVrw0






Transmission fluid leak

'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Online shainiac

Update on the leak - The main case of my T56 Magnum is cracked! I'm not sure how this happened, but in the hour or so I left it sit, another several oz of fluid leaked out.
It's cracked by one of the bottom bolt holes where the tailshaft housing bolts to the main case.



'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline Cobranut

Nice that you got it tuned, and that it makes great power.   8)

Sorry to hear about the crack though.
Is that a new transmission, and does it have any warranty?
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Online largeorangefont

  • Top Fuel
  • Location: So Cal
  • Posts: 6592
  • I steer with the gas pedal.
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
You sure it is actually cracked or just leaking from the tail shaft housing?
Quote from: cool
Sell it to spacevomit.  He'll finish it.

Online shainiac


The leak is definitely from a crack. I brake cleaned the whole trans last night and  this morning everything was dry above the bottom of the tailshaft housing/main case. The video below is 18 hours after I found the leak and it was still dripping every couple seconds. There was probably half a quart in the drain pain from just dripping overnight.

I'm going to call Tremec at lunch, but the trans is 4 years old and I'm not the original purchaser. Tremec's site says their products carry a 12 month warranty. My best hope is that there is a TSB for casting flaws and there's a new part rev that fixes it. In all likelyhood, I'm going to pull the trans and have a friend weld it up and dope it up with RTV to hopefully prevent any seepage.

Video of the leak







'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline Cobranut

Use an anerobic sealant instead of rtv.  It's available from loctite, but I don't recall the number.
It's the same type that tremec uses at the factory.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Online shainiac

That's interesting. It looks like my tailhousing uses conventional grey or black RTV. You can see it squished out of the case halves in the photos. It's very flexible/rubbery, unlike any anaerobic sealant I've used before.

I kinda feel like doping up the crack with sealant would be a waste of 4 qt of ATF. I'm not sure if the crack is a casting flaw or I did actual damage and I'm not sure it'll grow or get worse. There are a few videos online and it looks like cracking the main case off of the front plate isn't exactly straight forward. Lot's of tiny parts and clips that have to go back together in the correct order.
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22771
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
1.   Remove tailshaft
2.   Clean and tape over the back of the tranny
3.   Grind a "v" in the crack and drill a 1/8" hole at the root and clean it out with Brakeleen
4.   JB Weld the "v" and hole
5.   Reinstall tailshaft with anerobic sealant on the seam

I think you could do that without pulling it apart or even out of the car.   I've pulled a tailshaft with it in the car before.   Just put a rag in where you drill the hole so no metal gets into the transmission.   I know people act like JB Weld is hack, but it's perfect for things like this and it's easier (and likely more reliable) than welding dirty tranny fluid soaked aluminum.

Pulling the housing all the way apart is a pain in the ass, but doable (just watch the fork/shaft alignment.   If you do that just get it welded up.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish

Online shainiac

Thanks for the reassurance, Blake. I'm going to strip everything down this evening and get a better look at it. I had really tough time getting the trans with cross member to fit inside the trans tunnel, so not looking forward to removing the crossmember and tailshaft housing. If I can remove the tailshaft housing in the car, that'd be stellar. The magnum shifter is pretty far forward, so not sure how much room I'll have to get the roll pin out.

What exactly is the advantage to the anaerobic sealant over RTV silicone? I was thinking it may be good to dope the inside of the trans with something as well.
'88 TII -  SBE 5.3L, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate
716whp/662wtq @1.3bar

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22771
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
It stays sticky a bit and dries without oxygen so itís really good for sealing a machines surface.    The most common one I see is called ďHondabondĒ and itís really really good stuff.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2016 BMW 428i xDrive Gran Coupe - Completely stock...ish