April 24, 2019, 03:48:56 AM

Author Topic: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build  (Read 11274 times)

Offline MPbdy

FWIW this is a thing too..

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-M4204F318C-8-8-Traction-Lock/dp/B004VQB31E

I need to rebuild one and my laziness might take over and just order this for $100 more without having to soak the clutches in the friction modifier and stuff.

Offline screamin88

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I'll be following this one!  :secret:

Excellent work so far and welcome to the darkside!

Offline FC3S Murray

Another twin FC! Can't wait to see the finished product man, nice work so far.


8 years and still running STRONG!

Offline shainiac

Made a bit of progress, but no photos.
I installed twin Walbro 450s. This was a total pain in the ass. I used an 8AN bulhead through the stock fuel pump hanger and a 1/4" NPT 3-way "showerhead" air compressor manifold. The problem I had was that the pumps were every so slightly too wide to fit between the stock baffle side-by-side and every so slightly too long to fit with the hose barbs and bulkhead fitting. I ended up cutting down the hose barbs to minimize over-all height and staggering the pumps fore/aft and  side-by-side to get it to fit.

I also ran the 8AN PTFE feed line with an E85 compatible filter.

The biggest accomplishment for the weekend was getting the intercooler hard-mounted to the car. It was a pain in the ass and I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to chop quite a bit of ribbing out of the hood to get it to close. I ended up using 1/8" plate  and using the stock front tow hitch bolt locations. I kinda figured they wouldn't be accessible with the RE bumper, so if I need to strap the car to a dyno or trailer, I'll strap through the wheels. I may end up boxing in the IC mounts and making them a solid jacking point eventually since reaching a jack under the car to the subframe won't be possible with the RE bumper.

On pretty huge oversight I had, I left the shifter off of the transmission so I could measure how far to extend the shift rod. There is ZERO clearance to install the shifter with the trans in the car and I'm afraid to unbolt the transmission since I had a bitch of a time getting the crossmember in. The trans mount didn't line up with the floor pan and required a lot of massaging to work at all. Sooo, I'm thinking about just cutting the tunnel from the top and dripping the shifter in that way. Not sure which will be harder.

I'm also still waiting on downpipe materials and then I should be able to finish that up before I move out of my rented shop in June and lose access to a welder,and lift. I close on my house this Friday and will start the slow process of moving 3 years and 3 builds worth of junk out of my shop.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

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Offline shainiac


Finally closed on our first house. The car has taken a back seat for a while, and likely will for a while. The house is in pretty solid structural condition, but the cosmetics need some TLC. I have about a month to move my car, tools, parts, ect from my rented shop 45 min away to my garage at my house. The plan is to get as much of the fab done that requires a welder, lift, or air tools before I lose access to those.






I was able to sneak away from house stuff to start on the downpipes. I had a friend TIG my turbo V-bands to the AceRace flex joints so theyre pretty. Ill MIG the rest of the exhaust and heat wrap my fugly welds. Im pretty excited for how the exhaust is looking so far. I think Ill have plenty of room to run some bullet mufflers to keep it somewhat civilized. Ive been helping a friend with his 6.0 LS swapped E36 BMW with twin S366s. It just has a 2-1 3-4 exhaust out the front bumper and isnt ridiculously loud. Its pretty reasonable cruising in high vacuum, but  idle and WOT get your attention. My little turbines and some bullet mufflers should be more mild.

Probably the best purchase Ive made in a while, I bought a Harbor Freight portable band saw and a SWAG Offroad V3.0 vertical bandsaw conversion. This thing rocks. I paid extra for the miter slider and foot switch, but Im also happy with those. This thing rips through stainless. I finally killed the 14tpi blade that came with the saw from HF after making 15+  cuts of 2 SCH10/40 304SS, 10+ cuts of 3 304 tubing, lots of cold rolled for brackets, and random odds and ends. No lube, just letting it eat. I ordered some decent name-brand blades, so I hope it is only better.


http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V30-Portaband-Table_p_55.html










I cut the shifter surround and I think I'm going to be able to get the shifter installed without removing the engine/trans. Hopefully.
I need to add an extension to the Magnum shifter first. I measured approx 3.5" rearward.
A friend of mine did this to the Fbody shifter in his LS1 FRS and it was a bit funky.
The cantilevered lever translates to a lot of vertical motion. I'm sure once I'm used to it, It'll be fine.



'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

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Offline smeddler

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Car looks really nice and congrats on the new house, what town did you by in?

Offline shainiac

Lyme. It's only 20 min from our apartment, so moving should be pretty easy.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline shainiac

Trying to make good use of the MIG welder at my rental shop before I move out in 2 weeks. I've been pretty swamped trying to get my new house move-in ready and moving both my apartment and shop to the new house. I also took a week off work to go back to Indiana for the Indy 500 and to see family and friends.

I'm almost finished with the downpipes. They were easier than I anticipated, although my booger welds look like crap. I was admittedly lazy with prep work and impatient with the little 115V MIG. Everything will get a coat of high-temp paint and wrapped in DEI Titanium, so as long as the welds are strong, I'm okay with it.   

I used Speed Engineering universal 3" X-pipe kit that was like $145 shipped on ebay for 4x 45* bends, the X, and 2x 180* bends. All 304 stainless with slip joints and clamps. I also bought Ace Race 3" bellow flex joints and V-band assemblies. I also put a 3"ID/4"OD Dynomax Mini race Billet on race side to hopefully take the edge off the volume. Before each muffler is a 3" (Chinese) "loudvalve". It's a normally-open valve that closes under vacuum. The plan is to use a solenoid and have the ECU control it based on TPS, similar to a lot of the dual-mode exhausts on production cars.

It looks a little crooked from in front of the car, but I oriented everything off having the tips symmetric in the car. I still have to blow holes in the fenders and snake it out of the car, but that might have to wait till the car is at my new home.

I ordered the radiator and need to get the mounts fabbed up asap, so that'll likely be the next step. I bought a BeCool Boneyard LS radiator which is 26.5x17x3 and has the correct size and orientation of inlets for an LS. I'm also planning on using Ford Contour dual fans/shroud. Supposedly big CFM and pretty thin. I have about 3" of depth between the rad and downpipes :/



'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline shainiac

My radiator showed up and I seemed to have gravely misjudged how far forward my turbos sit :(
I'm not entirely sure what I'm going to do. I'm thinking I may have the inlet cut and welded shut and snake an inlet tube 180 out of the side of the end tank.
It's hard to see in the photos, but the outlet is hitting the downpipe too. I think the easy thing to do there will be just cut and plug the outlet and move it a few inches up. Not exactly sure what I'm going to do for a rad support either. There's no bungs or supports on the damn thing. I'm really starting to rack up favors with my TIG welder friend haha. I'm not really sure how well fans will fit either. I really wanted to use Ford Contour V6 dual fans, but I don't know if I'll have room. On a positive note, the BeCool radiator is really nice.








'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline digitalsolo

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My .02 here, having done 2 turbo LS FCs and worked on 4 turbo LS FDs.

Put your IC in front of the core support.  Move the radiator forward.    You're not doing yourself any favors jamming all that stuff in crazy tight like that.   Honestly side mount ICs and clean airflow to the rad would be even better.    Life will suck if you can't keep it cool, sitting in traffic worrying about what your oil and coolant temps are doing is not any fun at all.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline shainiac

I'm not exactly sure which core support you're talking about? I cut out the rad core support and oil cooler support and jammed the intercooler as far forward as possible without having to cut a hole in the hood/drag the thing down the street. The intercooler itself is 18" tall plus the 3.5->3" 90* silicone elbow.

I absolutely agree about temps though. I plan on fully ducting the front end and adding a hood vent if I need it. I have a pair of Setrab 19 row oil coolers sitting on the shelf. I'm not sure I'll need them for street driving or short pulls, but I already have a oil temp installed that will be wired to the ECU.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline SuperSlow

I'd say fuck it and cut a hole in the hood

Offline shainiac

Finally settled into the house, more or less. I was able to dig a path through the garage this weekend and clear out all the boxes, Styrofoam, and other packing supplies that took over my garage and enabled me to set up shelves to get my parts off the ground and set up lights.
I bought 6 Home Depot 4 4000lm LED lights and got those installed this week too. They are a great value at $40 each and I was able to get free shipping and 10% off with coupons.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lithonia-Lighting-4-ft-40-Watt-Black-Integrated-LED-Diamond-Plate-Shop-Light-SHLDP-48IN-40K-80CRI-BL/300951323?keyword=Lithonia+Lighting+4+ft.+40-Watt+Black+Integrated+LED+Diamond+Plate+Shop+Light
I also moved a 10 work bench from 1 end of my property to the other. The previous owner built it for his woodshop in the opposite corner of the lot, so I had to disassembly the bench piece-by-piece and carry it. The legs are 4x8 cedar timbers and weigh a ton!

Even though I wasnt working on the car, I bought a few things I needed. I found an Integrated Engineering surge tank and new twin AEM 385 pumps for a smoking deal eBay. The plan is to use 1 Walbro 450 to feed the surge tank and stage or PWM the AEM pumps to keep heat/noise down. Going to try and tuck the surge next to the stock tank since I no longer have rear mufflers.

I also got a killer deal locally on a new 31spline TrueTrac, 2 BNIB ring and pinions (front and rear 4.56) and 2 Timken rebuild kits for $500. Going to sell the R&Ps and 1 rebuild kit (front) to get some of my money back. I also need to buy a 3.31 gear set.

The (short) to-do list to finish the car:



  • Swap gears/rebuild diff
    Do bushing in rear end
    Set pinion angle
    Measure for driveshaft length

    Mount radiator
    Modify radiator outlets
    Add bungs for expansion tank vent and turbo water feeds
    Find a fan that can fit between my downpipes and radiator (Ford Contour dual fan?)

    Figure out where to put surge tank
    Finish plumbing fuel lines

    Mount ECU and wire the car (PNP engine harness 😊)

    Mount bumper and figure out where to cut downpipe holes
    Finish downpipes


    I hope to get the car done before they start salting the roads. Well see how that goes.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline N2v8fcs

my surge tank is mounted in the cavity left by the right rear muffler. I'm feeding 2 044  pumps from it. Aeromotive 340 unit in tank.
:drive:
new personal best 11.45 @ 120 mph N/A car...9.11 @152 mph for the turbo car.


1987 FC  355 SBC, T-5, T2 rear        retired 5-4-11
1991 FC  383 SBC, sold to Dad. Now 5.3 w 76mm turbo, G-force T-5, 8.8 Ronin rear 
1990 FC  370 CID 6.0 w 88mm turbo, Powerglide, Ronin 8.8 w 3.15 gears

Offline shainiac

my surge tank is mounted in the cavity left by the right rear muffler. I'm feeding 2 044  pumps from it. Aeromotive 340 unit in tank.

Good to know, thanks.

BTW, did you run a 9.96 with the T5 car or the PG car? Impressive either way for IRS cars.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube