April 26, 2019, 01:50:20 AM

Author Topic: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build  (Read 11339 times)

Offline SuperSlow

Re: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build
« Reply #105 on: February 07, 2019, 07:34:29 PM »
Do I have old people settings turned on or was that last post extra big?

That garage looks awesome man, wish I had that space.

Offline shainiac

Re: Ten Pounds of Shit in a Five Pound Bag - Twin Turbo 5.3 Daily Driver Build
« Reply #106 on: February 07, 2019, 08:02:23 PM »
Haha, I don't think I posted in Jitterbug mode, but I did bold the headers so it'd look like less of a rambling mess.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline shainiac



Bit of an update:

Closing in on finishing the S197 Mustang knuckle, spindle, rotor, and caliper swap. Iím using Fortune Auto 500s with FC3S upper mounts, S197 lower mounts, OEM Mazda ball joints, and yet-to-be-tested: E21 BMW inner tie rods with S197 QA1 bumpsteer kit. It's turning out to be a relatively bolt-on affair.
One added benefit to the Mustang knuckles Ė there is quite an improvement in steering angle. I measured 58* total angle. I didnít measure the Mazda stuff, but Iíve read itís around 40*. I donít really have the patience to measure Ackerman, so thatís TBD.

I did have to slot the upper bolt hold on the S197 lower mounts from Fortune Auto to get more camber. After some grinding, Iím able to get close to 4* at rideheight with both the upper camber plate and slotted hole.
I bought some cheap factory brake lines to see if I can make something work before I resort to making custom lines.


The BIG difference I didnít really consider was the weight increase with the 14Ē Brembos. Here are the weights:
Knuckle/Spindle (Mazda w/ ABS):12.6#
Knuckle/Spindle (Ford w/ ABS): 17.4#
Caliper (Mazda 4 pot - bare): 6.0#
Caliper (Ford Brembo - bare): 9.0#
Rotor (Mazda 10.9Ē Ė used): 12.6#
Rotor (Ford 14Ē - used) 24.4#

ADDED WEIGHT: 19.6# PER CORNER   :embarrassed:
At least most of it is in the rotors as thermal mass.
There are 2-piece rotor options available but they cost more than my entire swap setup and only save about 5#.
It's also nice that OEM Motorcraft rotors are $45/per.




To try and balance out the F/R brakes, Iím attempting to retrofit bigger rear rotors. The 13-14 GT500 uses 13.8Ē rear rotors which are very close in thickness to Mazda rotors with about 0.75Ē lower offset (more outboard). I bought some 0.75Ē bar stock and am in the middle of making an adapter plate to remount the OEM calipers with the GT500 rotors.




Switch Panel/gauges are finished. Everything is on Molex connectors so the entire console can be removed in less than a minute. This way I am able to put fuses and relays behind the console. With all the HVAC stuff still in the car there is NOT much room.


Turbo setup is finished and just needs to be cleaned and put on the car. Waiting on the POR15 on the frame rails to cure first.

'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline shainiac


Made a bit more progress.
I resprayed what I could of the engine bay with poly bedliner. Took a long time to dry in this weather, but seems pretty tough now that itís cured. I also sent all of my charge pipes, comp covers, and accessory brackets to get powder coated wrinkle black and my turbo manifolds are getting ceramic coated.

I also plumbed all the power steering system and used a drill and Allen bit to prime the system and check for leaks. It worked really well, actually. My corded Makita didnít have enough power, I had to use my Milwaukee cordless on the high torque setting. As soon as you turned the wheel to full lock, itíd stall the drill if it wasnít in the high torque gear.

Rear suspension is going back in this weekend so I can measure for a driveshaft.
As soon as everything is back from the powder coater, Iím going to start final assembly.

Rear brake setup is done. I ended up having the adapter brackets water jet out of ĺĒ aluminum and the stock calipers bolt right up. The rear rotors are now 13.8Ē and have full pad engagement. The caliper bracket did take a fair amount of grinding to clear the rotor because of the difference in rotor radius. Still plenty of meat left on the bracket. I still need to get pads Ė Iíve been eyeballing the Hawk 5.0s for a fun street pad. The one thing that sucks about the front Brembo swap, nice front pads are double the cost of the Mazda pads. Oh well.







'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22524
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
Looking really good!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline shainiac

I got everything back from the powdercoater. Really happy with how it turned out. All the charge piping and comp covers were done in coarse wrinkle black. The turbo manifolds were done in 2 layers. High temp piston coat under black ceramic coat. I had the piston coat on my rotary manifold/turbo and it held up great with 1700+ EGTs. Iím still going to run the OEM heatshields over the manifolds and turbo blankets on the housings. Should keep everything nice and cool.









'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22524
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
Looks really nice/clean in the powder/ceramic coat!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline shainiac

I finally finished ďrebuildingĒ my suspension. I kinda regret it in the end, but hopefully it works okay.
I started with a steeply discounted set of used Fortune Auto coilovers from an EvoX. As you can see, they were ROUGH. The seller had a nice return policy so I gave it a chance. After peeling back all the crud, the shocks themselves seemed in really nice shape, albeit, scabby. Nothing bent and no weird noises.

The threads on the coilovers were really bad to start. I wired wheeled them the best I could and bough a M52x2.0 tap on ebay and chased all the threads which helped a lot.
Everything got degreased in hot water/Purple Power and then brake cleaned. I warmed them up in front of a torpedo heater for a few minutes and then brushed all the threads with Brownells Oxpho-Blue gun bluing a couple times and then a light coat of motor oil. Everything went back together nice and easy with a thin coat of white lithium grease to keep the collars from rusting again.

I ended up buy all the parts I needed from Fortune Auto for a reasonable price. I got all new perches, top hats, and front lower mounts (Mustang) for very reasonable price.
The springs are Afcos, 450#F, 350#R which was close to the 8k/6k springs that came on the coilovers. Yeah, Iím sure the valving wonít be perfect for my car. I think Iíve spent about a bit more than half the price of a new set of Fortune Autos. AND I got the Mustang front lower mounts that work with my brakes. I think If I did it over again, I probably would have ordered new and asked if I could have just subbed in the Mustang lowers. Oh well.


BEFORE




AFTER



'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline digitalsolo

  • Administrator
  • Top Fuel
  • Location: Fort Wayne, IN
  • Posts: 22524
  • View Gallery
    • View Profile
    • LS1FC.com
Thatís an impressive restoration!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline Cobranut

Wow, looks like new again.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline shainiac

Getting close to start up!

I did the final install of the turbos, manifolds, lines, etc. All bolted up and torqued to spec with fresh gaskets. Feels good!
Water pump and expansion tank are now bolted up with gaskets
Subaru booster/brake master are bolted in and new 3AN brake lines are routed to the Brembos.
Cleaned out the intake and installed the 2200cc injectors/tophats, rails, and throttle body.
Finished fuel lines/flex fuel sensor. Waiting on the flex fuel sensor connector to show up.
Finished all the fuesbox/alternator, starter wiring.
Emailed Summit to order a 3Ē chromoly Strange driveshaft. I measured a hair under 32Ē with the yoke all the way into the T56 Mag. Ordered a 31Ē.
Ordered rear tires (Federal RS-R 285/30R18).

I listed my Forgestar wheels for sale since I would prefer to run a staggered wheel setup if I cant fit 285s under the front fenders. When taking pics of the wheels, I measured the actual offset (box was marked ď10Ē arbitrarily)  and theyíre +22mm. I still donít think 285s will fit up front, but thatís a friendlier offset. With the Mustang spindles and Fortune Autos, there still a good 10mm inboard of the wheel lip.
 
I also made a cool little oil primer from a spare pump from work. Itís a little 12v bronze spur gear pump that puts out good pressure. Runs off of a Milwaukee M12 6ah battery. Iíve yet to use it, but I plan on priming the oil from the pan adapter.




'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline shainiac

The oil system is all primed and leak checked. The little primer pump I built worked great. As more air worked itís way out of the system, it was able to make about 60psi of pressure. The only annoyance was having to drain the oil pan back into the jug twice. I think for a few buck I could rig up a fitting and hose to return the pain oil to the jug on the fly. The inline filter also caught a decent amount of junk in the oil. I didnít soak the lifters before installing them (2+years ago!), so it took some time for everything to get bled out. All but 1 lifter was flowing oil.

My new rear tires showed up yesterday. 285/30R18 Federal RS-Rs. They are WIDE. Iím getting them mounted on my 18x10s Friday so Iíll be able to mock them up. Iím anxious to see how they fit on the front. Doubtful, but itíd be nice to run square setup so I could rotate. Definitely more tire than I need up front, though.
I got a kick out of Federalís ďMade FOR America with Patriot PrideĒ logo











'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline gnx7

Looking good.  Rebuild those rocker arms with a trunion bearing kit. 

What was the cost to do the manifold coating?  I need a pair done.... can you share which place did it and approx cost?
'93 FD: 441ci/AllPro LS7 heads/intake en route, T56 Mag, 8.8" IRS, HolleyHP, DavisTechTC 10.32@137mph cats/full exhaust. 165mph 1/2 mile (old LS7)
'93 FD LS9 turbo, T56 Mag, Samberg 8.8" solid axle, 9.35@163mph 197mph 1/2 mile
`69 Chevelle: alum 5.3, GTS76 turbo, ChiseledPerf A/W, T56 Magnum,Ford 35 spline 9".CTS-V interior http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=18234.0
old yellar....440rwhp/FD sold but not forgotten: http://www.ponycars.net/scc.htm
I sell new T56 Magnums/McLeod clutch/T56 rebuild kits/Holley EFI/FIC injectors and all BrianTooleyRacing parts.  norcalmotorsport@gmail.com

Offline shainiac

A friend owns a coating company. They primarily do Cerakote for firearm manufacturers. He coated all the exhaust parts twice, once in "piston coat" which is a peanut butter-colored coating that has high thermal barrier properties and coated again in a matte black ceramic for extra and cosmetics. I had just the piston coat on my 13B manifolds and turbine housing and it held up really well to 1700F+ EGTs. It is very thin, though so scratches easily. He charged me $230 for all the ceramic coat (two turbofolds) and all the wrinkle black (5 pieces of charge pipe, 2 compressor covers, and the accessory brackets) which is a complete steal. I'm guessing retail would probably be 2-3X that.
'88 TII - 13BT, MS3X , EFR 9180 IWG, A2W Intercooled
539whp/407wtq @ 25.5psi

Soon to be Alum 5.3 GenIV LS, Twin EFR 6758s, T56 Magnum, Ronin 8.8" IRS, MS3Pro Ultimate

Build Thread      Instagram      Youtube

Offline Cobranut

Looking good.

Details on that pump would be great.
I built a rig to filter my used oil before I blend it into diesel fuel for my diesels, but a better pump would speed up the flow through the filter.

Thanks
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.