May 19, 2019, 09:21:15 AM

Author Topic: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)  (Read 23949 times)

Offline Cryptic

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #15 on: January 18, 2011, 12:01:57 AM »
I got my kit back in Feb 2010.


The "D" shape hole rounded on me real quick.  Did you put out a replacement to the original product? Is the best bet just to pull these out and tack them together as shown above?
1995 427 LS3 Burnout Widebody FD
My build thread
2011 Ford F250 CCSB 6.7L

Offline tai-lun

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #16 on: May 24, 2011, 04:19:01 AM »
So over the last while as the car sits waiting for new skin, I have been going from shop to shop trying to find a solid solution. I ended up talking to a ex-racer turned shop owner of PDM locally to me. Here is what he came up with, and it would work for old or new style camber bolt/plates.

Cutting the oem shape out of the supplied parts and welding the two together.




Justin, you can see the newer oem shape from the "D", I'm not sure which year Mazda switched over to this shape but it is for sure a lot better in design then the original shape.

Hope this helps anyone else that is running the newer shape or has sheared off their oem ones like I did. This will eliminate the space problem with slipping the new plates behind the oem ones and welding them.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD - rebuild time with ITB's soon... :banghead:
Build Thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.0

Offline Cryptic

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #17 on: May 24, 2011, 10:58:04 AM »
What did you use to cut the circle out of the larger one?

Would you be able to produce these for sale?
1995 427 LS3 Burnout Widebody FD
My build thread
2011 Ford F250 CCSB 6.7L

Offline tai-lun

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #18 on: May 24, 2011, 02:53:33 PM »
What did you use to cut the circle out of the larger one?

Would you be able to produce these for sale?

If you have Justin's newer plates, these are no fun to cut as he made them out of some nice hard metal and the original cut looks like it was done with laser.

Hole saw on the press going real slow after a few double checks on measurements, definitely not something that any margin for error is okay with, and you have to keep in mind to make it just big enough that the welds will not interfere with the plate sitting flush. After honing out the centers so they can slip onto the bolt, measure and mark for the hole saw on the D cut plates to line up the centers on the oem plates ( final cut was closest diameter to oem with minimal grinding as possible). Take a steady pill and lower down the press to make the new cut, clamping the plate for stability is a must as those bottom edges are going to be cut pretty thin. Some tack welds on the back, re-measure to make sure the newly pressed on front ones and the new back ones are even, and then weld the whole front of the two plates together.

Because of the welding, cutting and grinding ruins the even finish Justin puts on these for us, they were hit with some black paint to prevent erosion. I'm not worried about my rear ones, but I wish they matched the shiny new front ones. I now have oem clearance on them as well which is nice.

Because of the r+d to get them right, it was not cheap to get this done, but to do more would not be too hard as mine have now been completed and can be used for measuring. This is Justin's product though, and his sub-forum so I think its best for him to decide move forward with what to do on these.

Hope this helps everyone out with the same issue/not liking the stack up of plates or anyone wanting oem clearance.
« Last Edit: May 24, 2011, 02:59:39 PM by tai-lun »
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD - rebuild time with ITB's soon... :banghead:
Build Thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.0

Offline carl0s

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Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #19 on: June 05, 2011, 06:45:04 PM »
Justin, do you think you'll be offering newer style plates?

Also, my subframe doesn't have the mounting part for the plates on the other side (the weld side). Do you supply the parts to be welded to the subframe?
--
Carl
LS2 FD

Offline the burning giraffe

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #20 on: November 07, 2011, 06:56:33 PM »
Im bumping this up because Ive had the same problem as you Tai Lun. Would you be able to get the half moon shape made so I can just weld to the stock plate?

Thanks


Offline tai-lun

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #21 on: November 07, 2011, 09:39:47 PM »
Im bumping this up because Ive had the same problem as you Tai Lun. Would you be able to get the half moon shape made so I can just weld to the stock plate?

Thanks

To keep Justin's thread clean, anyone interested in plates with holes like mine just pm me. I will talk to the guy who did mine and if there is enough interest to make it worth it for him I will let you guys know.
Tai - 93 LS2 Ronin Widebody FD - rebuild time with ITB's soon... :banghead:
Build Thread: http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=9172.0

Offline justinsamberg

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Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #22 on: November 08, 2011, 12:00:41 AM »
I'm going to run off ten sets of cam washers (40 total) with the large 1"1/4" hole. This way all you have to do is weld them in. Give us about a week.

I just ask that you pay the shipping and I'll cover the rest.
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Offline 4packet

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #23 on: November 08, 2011, 04:22:20 AM »
We approached this from a different angle. We have a 99 spec car which has the figure of 8 style bolt recess rather than the D shape.

We used a new bolt (not the Mazda items) and welded one cam plate directly to the bolt head. We stuck with the D shape Samberg cam plate and had the necessary portion of the bolt milled to accept it. Had to make sure the 2 cam plates were aligned properly.

Some of the original cam plates needed replacing and considering these bolts can be seized on older cars it seems to make sense to offer a solution that doesn't rely on rusty old hardware.

Offline justinsamberg

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Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #24 on: November 08, 2011, 05:02:11 AM »
We approached this from a different angle. We have a 99 spec car which has the figure of 8 style bolt recess rather than the D shape.

We used a new bolt (not the Mazda items) and welded one cam plate directly to the bolt head. We stuck with the D shape Samberg cam plate and had the necessary portion of the bolt milled to accept it. Had to make sure the 2 cam plates were aligned properly.

Some of the original cam plates needed replacing and considering these bolts can be seized on older cars it seems to make sense to offer a solution that doesn't rely on rusty old hardware.

Can someone send me a sample of one of these 8 shaped bolts or even a washer? I'd be more than happy to make something work! We would run a bunch off and keep them on hand for the people that need them.
« Last Edit: November 08, 2011, 05:14:04 AM by justinsamberg »
http://www.rx7v8.com/
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925-484-5800

Offline the burning giraffe

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #25 on: November 08, 2011, 04:53:53 PM »
ill send you one Justin but coming from Australia it might take a while! Ill give you a call shortly.

Offline ProjectD

Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #26 on: December 12, 2011, 06:14:37 PM »
Anything new to report here?  I'm needing a new set of these cam plates as well but I don't know if I need to order the new cam bolt from mazda or source a used "D" one.

Offline radiomike

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Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #27 on: December 13, 2011, 06:40:25 AM »
Anything new to report here?  I'm needing a new set of these cam plates as well but I don't know if I need to order the new cam bolt from mazda or source a used "D" one.

I don't think you can get the D bolts from Mazda any more but even if you could they are made of cheese.  Get some 12.9 grade cap bolts, 2 M12x110 and 2 M12x100, machine the D shape then fit the parts together with a length of tube in place of the bush.  Line up the notches on the cams by placing the assembly in the V of a length of angle steel, tighten the nut then tack weld the bolt head to the cam plate. From memory the depth of cut on the bolts needs to be 2mm but check first as you want them as tight as possible.

Offline ProjectD

Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #28 on: December 13, 2011, 09:42:00 AM »
Thanks for the info!

Offline justinsamberg

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Re: Camber/Caster Plate (welding required)
« Reply #29 on: December 15, 2011, 02:09:45 PM »
We have the have circle washers available now.




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Samberg Performance Fabrication
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