March 23, 2019, 12:32:20 PM

Author Topic: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)  (Read 485195 times)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #555 on: February 20, 2018, 01:55:42 PM »
I just gotta say how much I appreciate you guys.  When you're tired and posting a question at 1 something in the morning and a response comes in quick enough for me to rip them out and get them off before work...

It makes the heart warm and fuzzy.  Car people is good folks.  Thank you amigos.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #556 on: May 15, 2018, 03:28:58 PM »
So let's say theoretically you overdid an offset too far outboard on a set of front wheels.  What tricks do you have for getting the tire size you really want to run, back under the fenders?

Thus far I've come up with...

-More negative camber (bah)
-Change tires ($$)
-Change wheels ($$$)
-Raise it so you don't rub in the first place (bah)
-Don't hit bumps at high angle of steering (unrealistic)
-Shave down wheel mounting pad (less meat to the lug nuts makes me nervous)
-Shift your suspension mount points inward (lots of work)
-Modify your control arms (???)

I don't really like any of the above, but I'm toying with modifying the control arms.  I'm running s4 arms, so I'd basically be welding plugs into the replaceable ball joints then re-drilling holes shifted over.  Anyone want to convince me this is a terrible idea?  I have enough space I could shift my coil-overs over up top to keep my camber where it is now.

Note to self.  Shoulda ordered less offset and planned spacers to dial it in.  Straight math isn't reliable when tire cross sections vary.   :banghead:
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline scuter83

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #557 on: May 15, 2018, 03:39:22 PM »
You forgot fender flares on your wide body car option, duh.....

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #558 on: May 15, 2018, 04:42:21 PM »
Make custom hubs that pull the wheels inboard slightly.   Build new big brake kit with custom brackets to fit.
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #559 on: May 16, 2018, 03:27:45 AM »
You forgot fender flares on your wide body car option, duh.....

Nice.  But no.

Make custom hubs that pull the wheels inboard slightly.   Build new big brake kit with custom brackets to fit.

Ugg...  That's a lot of work.  If I end up with custom hubs, it'll be in back, not up front if I can help it.

Well here's the wheel status...

Good news first!  Been driving the RX7 a LOT.  It's been about splitting time vs. the Jeep as a daily.  Makes me happy to walk out to this in the parking lot.




Bad news, my old Yokohama AD08s (circa 2010) got hard.  Way hard.  Iím sideways in any corner with even marginally aggressive throttle.  Then I locked them up on the freeway braking down from a friendly blast with a Hellcat, so now I have a minor flat spot to boot.  Sucks that I never managed to wear the tread out.  I really need to find a local drift school and just burn these off.
 
In the meantime, I started looking at tires.  And taking measurements.  And then looking at wheels.  I dig my Wedsports a lot.  I still think TC-105Nís are one of the best wheels ever.  I donít know why more folks donít run them.  In an 18x10.5 they were 1.5 lbs lighter than RPF1s, plenty strong (rolled barrel if not fully forged), classic killer looks, not terrible on the cost front.  Downside: they only go to 10.5Ē and 295 was as wide as I was willing to go on that.
 
So I went wheel hunting and ended up coming to the same conclusion several others have for properly wide wheels.  Forgestar F14s.  I figured if I was going to do this, and frankly wanted to help other Ronin widebody users maximize their wheelwells, tooÖ  that meant I should do it all the way.
 
Plus I really dig gold wheels on white carsÖ









 
What I picked (note this will NOT be my final recommendation for others!)
Nitto NT01s 315/30r18 front, 335/30r18 rears
Forgestar F14 18x11-6 front, 18x12+6 rear (deepest offsets they offer)

Tires came in first.  Damn these things are wide.  Blocked about my whole aisle (albeit the garage isn't large)




Kids had fun.  Always wanted these shots.




 

Mimicked my wheel specs off something Akina ran.   I ordered these back on Black Friday 2017.  Instead of the 7-8 weeks quoted they took 5 months to come in.  Equally tall stack of wheels as rubber.




Forgestar had an issue with a gen 1 version the F14 that a dude managed to break on track (admittedly using the curbs heavily over several events).  They widened the spokesí cross section and tied them more fully into the barrel so thatís no longer an issue.

Rubber mounted:



 
I wanted to run a nice valve stem and found these super shorties on Amazon.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N2WM4LK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  If your valve stem lives in a recess it might not work as a few folks couldnít tighten the nuts.  Worked out fine for me though.
 



Same pattern as the Jeep.  I was kinda tempted to bolt them up. 




Wider than 33s x 12.5s




Snapped a hover car pic in anticipation of saying goodbye to some old friends.  May have been premature, but we'll see.




Tall stack of rubber, meet taller stack of rubber.




Rear with an 1/8" spacer clears the trailing arm by a couple mm.  I can torch or ding in the arm locally if needed to gain a few more.  The rears look great.




Up front clears the spring.  I wasn't planning on clearing the spring.  Honestly, I probably need to measure these wheels to see if I got the spec I ordered.  This is about the same clearance I had before and I was expecting to be 8 mm tighter.




The plan was to run a 6" coil to move the perch above the tire and let me run that much closer.




Look is going to take some getting used to.




Rears are good.  Might actually jump up to a 1/4" worth of spacer.  Studs are plenty long.




But here's the rub (literally)




Rule for comparison.  Slight poke confirmed, not what I wanted.   :banghead:




Still open to ideas.  Mostly rolling it around for now.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline digitalsolo

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Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #560 on: May 16, 2018, 10:17:56 AM »
The poke issue is definitely a problem, but it sure looks fantastic!
Blake MF'ing McBride
1988 Mazda RX7 - Turbo LS1/T56/ProEFI/8.8/Not Slow...   sold.
1965 Mustang Coupe - TT Coyote, TR6060, modern brakes/suspension...  project car
2013 Focus ST3 - Stage 1 BPU

Offline freeskier7791

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #561 on: May 16, 2018, 08:13:03 PM »
Rebuild the body kit?

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Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #562 on: May 17, 2018, 03:44:47 PM »
I have not looked into it too deeply but would a tri-y be easier to tuck up into the tunnel? I know it's a fair bit more difficult to make, I just don't know how long/big the secondary and primary would need to be.
From looking at the pfadt the secondary is relatively short but might make for the cake and eat it too with the power and ground clearance.

Any chance you'd sell a set without the flange installed?

Thank you.
Jesse

The more I think about it the more modding those removable ball joints looks like my best path.  At least this way I can put it back to stock if I decided I can't handle it and need to order alternate wheels or tires.

While I'm noodling on that one here's a few other random catch up things I mentioned prior. 


1) I went chasing a oil leak and ended up finding two of them. 

First, and the more obvious of the two was an oil cooler line which was dripping.  I traced it back to a failed fitting.  Note to self, not all AN fittings are created equal.  I wonít buy from RedHorse Performance again, thatís for sure.



Swapped out both lines entirely.  Apparently didnít take very many pictures, but I documented how this was done once before.  Fittings also donít appear to have perfectly standard contours and lengths, so if youíre replacing a line donít assume itíll be the exact same length.










Second issue took me a bit longer to find.  At first I thought I might have an oil pan gasket going bad.  However after I jacked up the engine I saw a tiny line in my oil pan where it crossed the rack.




Sanding confirmed.  Cracked pan.  I'm guessing it happened in my offroad excursion back when (big g-out event) and I only noticed it weeping by being under the car. 




I was going to pull the pan and weld both sides when my VP (car nut I've mentioned prior) mentioned I should check out Devcon Aluminum Putty.  The crack is above the sump area so it only sees splash in motion rather than sitting oil  I figured worst case I sand it all back off and weld the pan anyways.






No issues in the past month of driving.  I did swap out my engine isolator biscuit mounts since the old ones were showing some signs of compression set.

FWIW Anthony tells me the non-swivel kind of fittings are really best practice since o-rings can be the failure point.  While that might be true, I had already received the new XRP fittings above and decided to kick the can down the road and see if these are any better.

-Joel
« Last Edit: May 17, 2018, 03:50:36 PM by frijolee »
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #563 on: May 17, 2018, 03:45:13 PM »
2) Header Leak.

While I was down there poking around I noticed an exhaust leak from one of my slip on merge collectors.  Bugger.  Itís upstream of the 02 sensor and I once had my Jeep have a problem because it messed up the 02 sensor readings.  The pressure waves going on with the exhaust can create negative pressure (reference also several former discussions on David Vizard and reflected pulse waves).  Basically means you not only let exhaust out, you can suck fresh air in and that no good for 02 sensor trying to make tuning changes.



So I started investigating what the heck you can use to seal slip merge collectors.  Itís too hot for RTV (at least per the specs), muffler mender had me worried that if it didnít work Iíd never be able to get this apart.  Finally Anthony (@V8-rx7) came through with a hot tip.  Apparently he had a hot rod shop recommend regular zinc anti-seize (copper is too thin, but the zinc is the ticket).  Itíll bake into the joint well enough to seal things, but not be so impervious that you can never get it separated again.

Iíve seen old dried out anti-seize before so the concept at least passed the sniff test and I decided to give it a go.












Seems to be holding up thus far.  By the way, if youíre doing slip on merge collectors, given my experience Iíd strongly recommend dual slip collectors.  Much better chance of sealing and you may want to consider some anti-seize as well.

This headache is why the forthcoming Ronin headers are using a merge spike with a fully welded collector shell.  More info on that coming soon.  Weíre getting close.
LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline frijolee

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #564 on: May 17, 2018, 03:47:48 PM »
3) So you can't tune you car?

Anyone see a problem?




Yah, that line got swapped with a quickness.  Between this and my injector cleaning discussed a while back the RX7 is running worlds better (and hence getting driven a bunch). 


4) Before this, when I was still troubleshooting, the RX7 was sitting for a while so I sprung for a new fitted car cover since the FJ40 is taking up the garage.  Cal Car Cover, Superweave material, with a longer than normal skirt to cover the widebody.  It works.

LS2 stroker FC, Mandeville big brakes, widebody, etc
Build thread:  http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0
www.roninspeedworks.com

LargeOrangeFont says: "Joel is right, and I love Joel. But his car sounds like the wrath of God."   ;)

Offline Cobranut

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #565 on: May 17, 2018, 10:18:21 PM »
2) Header Leak.

While I was down there poking around I noticed an exhaust leak from one of my slip on merge collectors.  Bugger.  Itís upstream of the 02 sensor and I once had my Jeep have a problem because it messed up the 02 sensor readings.  The pressure waves going on with the exhaust can create negative pressure (reference also several former discussions on David Vizard and reflected pulse waves).  Basically means you not only let exhaust out, you can suck fresh air in and that no good for 02 sensor trying to make tuning changes.



After I had to literally beat the collectors off my race car, I used anti-sieze on my race car header.
I didn't really think about sealing, but that seems like a good idea.
So I started investigating what the heck you can use to seal slip merge collectors.  Itís too hot for RTV (at least per the specs), muffler mender had me worried that if it didnít work Iíd never be able to get this apart.  Finally Anthony (@V8-rx7) came through with a hot tip.  Apparently he had a hot rod shop recommend regular zinc anti-seize (copper is too thin, but the zinc is the ticket).  Itíll bake into the joint well enough to seal things, but not be so impervious that you can never get it separated again.

Iíve seen old dried out anti-seize before so the concept at least passed the sniff test and I decided to give it a go.












Seems to be holding up thus far.  By the way, if youíre doing slip on merge collectors, given my experience Iíd strongly recommend dual slip collectors.  Much better chance of sealing and you may want to consider some anti-seize as well.

This headache is why the forthcoming Ronin headers are using a merge spike with a fully welded collector shell.  More info on that coming soon.  Weíre getting close.
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.

Offline gc3

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #566 on: May 18, 2018, 07:57:52 AM »
i like the antiseize concept.
I'll be doing the same in the future for my exhaust work.

Also another indicator you live in rust-free-land.
the size of your antiseize tube.

I have a couple of the big cans (8fl oz i think) around the garage for easy access, pretty much every bolt that I ever put on a car gets a nice coating so I can take it off again next year after the winter salt season.

Offline Cobranut

Re: Joel's LS1 FC parts list/swap thread (remixed)
« Reply #567 on: January 24, 2019, 07:55:15 AM »
i like the antiseize concept.
I'll be doing the same in the future for my exhaust work.

Also another indicator you live in rust-free-land.
the size of your antiseize tube.

I have a couple of the big cans (8fl oz i think) around the garage for easy access, pretty much every bolt that I ever put on a car gets a nice coating so I can take it off again next year after the winter salt season.

I always figure, if it doesn't need Loctite, it gets anti-seize.  8)
1995 FD, 7.0 Liter stroked LS3, T56, 8.8, Samberg kit.