So, I think I've seen a person or two around here with a Tesla.   I swapped my BMW for a '21 Model 3 Performance.   It's loaded out, minus the full self-driving, and I'm not sure I want anyway.

Shockingly (LOL) I'm planning a few mods.   Nothing major.   Lowering springs and wheel spacers, plus a polish and ceramic coat, probably covers it for the near future.   It already had most of the common upgrades inside, organizers, floor mats, tint, etc.   I added a screen protector to hide fingerprints, as the stock gloss screen was making my brain twitch.

I'll get some pictures, once I clean it up more.  It's gray metal flake with blacked out trim, dark gray "Uberturbines" in 20" and the carbon spoiler, over black interior, with the "premium audio" option.   It's pretty entertaining so far, and I am a lot more excited to drive it vs. the BMW, which was honestly the goal.

Hey all,

I'm converting to a Haltech Nexus in my Mustang to clean up some wiring, which means I will have some spare stuff to clear out.

I have:

Haltech Elite 2500 - Fully up to date and running the new firmware to allow it to work with the NSP (Nexus Software) - $1350
IO 12 Expander Box A - Fully up to date, no issues.  - $200. -  SOLD
IO 12 Expander Box B - Fully up to date, no issues.  - $200. -  SOLD
ECUMaster PMU16 - Fully up to date, works perfectly.  - $800
Haltech Dual Wideband (Bosch) - No sensors included - $200

These are all currently installed and being used in my car, I'm planning to pull them out in October, but figured I'd post up here to see who wanted dibs.

I have spare connectors for the Elite 2500 I can throw in with it.    I do NOT have them for the Expanders, but I can send you links for where to buy them from Mouser for ~15 bucks (do NOT pay 50 bucks a set from Haltech!).    I have a full spare brand new connector and pins for the ECUMaster but I may be missing a few of the high power pins.   Again, I have the part numbers for the pins from Mouser, etc. and such.    If anyone is concerned on the pins, I'm willing to order new ones and include with for a committed buyer.

I've worked with or owned nearly every ECU on the market (Big Stuff 3, ProEFI, Holley, MS3, Haltech) and this is my favorite so far, their customer support is fantastic and it's the only brand I've ever purchased 2 ECUs from.   I am only changing it out as I want to simplify my setup and this will let me combine my PDU and ECU into one box.  A Coyote with 4 cams running VVT + twin turbos + all the stupid shit I do because I like buttons means I use a TON of inputs on my ECUs...

Firm on my prices, I think they're fair.   If you want a bunch of it all together I'll cut you a little bit of a deal.  If no one buys it, I'll keep it for the eventual Gen IV LS swap in my Aston Martin or a customer car. 

Just a random post here.   I have a '16 BMW 428iX that's my daily driver.   I plan on keeping it for a few more years at least, so I'm doing a few upgrades here and there.

The '16 had "NBT (Next Big Thing) Evo iDrive 4" which is fairly limited in capability.   The later iDrive 6 can do CarPlay, which was my target.    Turns out some guys in Romania figured out how to force the later software into the earlier unit.   Paid a small fee and a nice gentleman jumped in to my laptop, spent about... 4 hours...  coding it in and now I have CarPlay and all the iDrive 6 features in my '16 model year car.   Pretty neat.    They have updates to install the iDrive 6 hardware into the car, but it has some quirks, and costs 1200 dollars.   The software hack was just over 100 dollars.

Anyway, just thought it was pretty neat what they accomplished.   I'm sure with enough time, and access to the right cars, I could figure out how to do it, but honestly, ~100 bucks is more than worth the time savings, and quality of life using this vs. the older infotainment stuff.   Plus it'll match the new CarPlay setup I ordered for my Aston. 

Hey guys, I have some turbos from my Mustang for sale:

On3 Peformance GT3582 61mm turbos.    Journal bearing with the compact compressor covers with a 90 TIG welded to both of them.  .82 AR stainless dual V band turbine housings.

Very good condition, about 2000 miles on them, running about 10 psi on my Coyote.    Selling because I changed to billet dual ball bearing units.

I can get pictures of whatever you want if you’re interested. 

So I figured I'd share, if anyone was interested.   My wife and I both have COVID 19.    Got it through the school she works at.   

We both started showing symptoms on Saturday (me with a headache, her with a very slight sniffle/cough).    We were both pretty much fine (symptoms were very mild).   Sunday/Monday here symptoms worsened to what I'd call "moderately bad cold" and my head still hurt along with a stomach ache.    She had a very mild fever as well on Sunday night/Monday/Tusesday morning, but cleared by Tuesday night.    I didn't get a fever until Tuesday night but have one now.    I'm mostly unable to get comfortable in that my body is sore and I have a headache, but the main annoyance is I can't regulate body temp.   I'm hot/cold/hot/cold all the time.   It's annoying.    Before my symptoms went from headache to the chills/etc, I did manage to do a total of 40 miles on my bike and 700 calories on my elliptical, if that gives you an idea of how mild symptoms were for a while.

Anyway, we're both in good health (I'm in very good health) and I'm not typically one to get sick at all.   I've got a few friends that appear to have it now as well, and their symptoms are similar to my wife, nasty cold basically.

Anyway, quarantined for 7 more days now (10 days from onset per CDC).    Figured I'd share my experience with it, just in case someone was curious.

Hey all,

So here's something we've not covered much (or in a while at least).   Favorite fab tools!

Here's my list:

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Eastwood Tubing Bender:  https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-high-capacity-tubing-bender.html

I have one of these with the SWAG Offroad hydraulic conversion (https://www.swagoffroad.com/) and Harbor Freight air over hydraulic RAM.  It's fantastic, love the thing.   I mounted it on a hacked up Harbor Freight engine stand to make it easy to move around (just remember to level it before bending!)

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Harbor Freight 20 Ton press.   I have one of these with the SWAG Offroad arbor plates  (BUY THESE if you have one, the stock ones it comes with are dangerous!) and a SWAG Offroad finger press brake.    Great stuff.   I have some cheapie dimple dies that work great in it also.   You need a press, for real.  Wheel bearings, axle work, etc. it's so much easier...

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Harbor Freight vertical/horizontal 64" blade bandsaw;  it's...  decent.   Doesn't cut straight most of the time and throws blades, but I've built 5 turbo kits with the thing over the years.   For 230 bucks it's a solid piece.   This is on my upgrade to something better list.

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Harbor Freight 4x36 belt sander.   Works fine, lacks HP.    Just got an old Craftsman from my F-I-L that I'm going to move to that has about 3x the HP.  Beyond that, this one works fine.

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1945 Rockwell drill press.    Go find an old one like this.   Mine is literally from WW2.   It's the f&*king bomb and still runs dead true.   Fantastic.   Newer stuff sucks in comparison.

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Harbor Freight/cheap angle grinder.    I get about 12 months out of an angle grinder, I got 2 years out of a Makita.   So I buy cheap ones.   Currently using a Porter Cable that's 18 months old and still kicking.   The HF ones for 20 dollars work well for a couple years.   Their cutting discs are good too, but I use Benchmark Abrasives for flap wheels as they last like 5x as long as the HF ones do.

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HF die grinder.  They come apart.   Take it apart, clean it, loctite it all and it's a beast.   Buy good carbides online though, the HF stuff sucks.

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HF step drills.   These are GREAT.   I buy the cheap 3 packs for like 12 bucks on sale.   I've cut 1/4" stainless with them.

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AHP AlphaTIG.    This has been covered lots, but it's a great welder.   I think they come with the better torch and pedal now (black pedal, looks like a Miller part).   If not, get the good pedal and torch.   I run a "Cowboy Cover" on the torch lead to protect it.   Buy a good regulator (maybe a dual so that you can backpurge off your main bottle).    I can't say enough good about these.   FWIW, the new Argon regulators at HF are nice and still cheaper than average, buy the "Olsen" ones.   About 90 bucks for the regulator.   Way nicer than the old HF ones.

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Millermatic 135 (now sold as a Hobart 135 I think).    Good MIG for up to 3/16 (1/4" if you preheat).    Put like 200 lbs of wire through this thing.  Just keeps ticking.   Solid piece.

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"Yeswelder" helmets.   CHEAP on Amazon.  Work great.   I've used a Miller Digital Elite and this thing is about the same.   I have the ultra wide view and I think I paid 60 bucks with 5 extra front/inside plastic shields as spares.

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That's my off the top of my head list.   I have some Husky toolboxes as well and they are "fine".   The HF stuff is nicer, but Husky is servicable for home gamers like me and I bought a MASSIVE box for 550 bucks on clearance.

Anybody else have any tips?

AEM Infinity 710
Serial: 7107-0013

Recently serviced/fully validated/updated by AEM.

AEMnet CAN Gauge (includes both black and white faces)
Part number: 30-0312

Absolutely nothing wrong with either device, just going another way on my setup. ECU has about 20 hours of run time on it, gauge has about 5 hours. ECU was mounted on vibration damping feet and used in a street car with a pretty easy life (mounted under dash).

ECU includes the locking USB cable extension, a Micro USB to connect/program/log and the original AEM thumb drive. I don't have any ECU plugs as mine are used, but harnesses or a plug/pin kit are pretty cheap.

I would like 1725 for the two devices, or 1675 for the ECU and 90 for the gauge.