76
Drivetrain / Re: Why no mopar swaps?
« on: January 03, 2024, 03:11:17 PM »
They're huge. Tall and wide. Same reason there aren't very many Coyote swaps.
April 25, 2024, 05:31:35 PM
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77
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: January 02, 2024, 05:37:25 PM »
I explained that badly. Just foam tape for my uses, to fill some ~1” gaps.
I’ve never considered using foam board, though there are probably some kinds that would work well.
I’ve never considered using foam board, though there are probably some kinds that would work well.
78
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: January 02, 2024, 03:34:31 PM »
The factory design makes the cooling system work easy, overall. A lot of the car is built like a racecar or very fancy kit car, with lots of aluminum extrusions and rivnuts setup to re-purpose Jaguar/Ford parts. Makes it easy to adapt to my will.
The front and rear 1/3 of the car have full ducting/bracing flat floor plates that bolt on/off. Makes life easier for ducting it all. The middle of the car is also flat-ish, it looks a lot like a late model Corvette, but with even more aluminum everywhere.
Engine bay has tons of room for everything but the engine. I had to pull some sound deadening off the firewall and trim the heat shielding. I then put gold heat reflection foil on the whole firewall and transmission tunnel (err, torque tube tunnel) then reinstalled as much of the OEM heat shield as I could to help reject as much heat as possible. Clearance for the engine is about 5/16" to the rack, 1/4" to the firewall, 5/16" to the crossmember and 3/8" to the cowl. So the engine can basically go EXACTLY here, and nowhere else. Headers have miles of clearance, other than some subframe modding in one area, and they're well clear of the steering, etc.
I'll end up with a BIG intake tube to make sure the LT4 can breathe, but I don't think it'll be too bad. I'd like to add some brake cooling ducts up front at some point as well.
Once the heat exchanger is mounted I'll sort out where hoses need to go, then probably order some high density foam to seal it all up around the edges and force the air to go exactly where I want it. That's how Aston did it stock and makes sense overall.
I have a spot for the dry sump tank, and I think I can reuse the OEM power steering reservoir, along with about 90% of the OEM AC lines and the entire low pressure power steering setup (lines + cooler) so that saves a lot of work. I -might- be able to make the OEM coolant reservoir work, which would really make my life easier. If all that goes well I just need to stuff the Radium breather tanks somewhere and fit the intercooler pump and tank, both of which will probably go where the passenger side airbox was stock (OEM it had dual airboxes).
The front and rear 1/3 of the car have full ducting/bracing flat floor plates that bolt on/off. Makes life easier for ducting it all. The middle of the car is also flat-ish, it looks a lot like a late model Corvette, but with even more aluminum everywhere.
Engine bay has tons of room for everything but the engine. I had to pull some sound deadening off the firewall and trim the heat shielding. I then put gold heat reflection foil on the whole firewall and transmission tunnel (err, torque tube tunnel) then reinstalled as much of the OEM heat shield as I could to help reject as much heat as possible. Clearance for the engine is about 5/16" to the rack, 1/4" to the firewall, 5/16" to the crossmember and 3/8" to the cowl. So the engine can basically go EXACTLY here, and nowhere else. Headers have miles of clearance, other than some subframe modding in one area, and they're well clear of the steering, etc.
I'll end up with a BIG intake tube to make sure the LT4 can breathe, but I don't think it'll be too bad. I'd like to add some brake cooling ducts up front at some point as well.
Once the heat exchanger is mounted I'll sort out where hoses need to go, then probably order some high density foam to seal it all up around the edges and force the air to go exactly where I want it. That's how Aston did it stock and makes sense overall.
I have a spot for the dry sump tank, and I think I can reuse the OEM power steering reservoir, along with about 90% of the OEM AC lines and the entire low pressure power steering setup (lines + cooler) so that saves a lot of work. I -might- be able to make the OEM coolant reservoir work, which would really make my life easier. If all that goes well I just need to stuff the Radium breather tanks somewhere and fit the intercooler pump and tank, both of which will probably go where the passenger side airbox was stock (OEM it had dual airboxes).
79
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: January 01, 2024, 06:10:17 PM »
Next up, cooling system.
I had quite a few ideas on how I wanted this to work, but here's the basic concept:
Ordered a radiator that roughly matched the stock unit, but was dual pass, passenger side inlet/outlet, to better fit the LT4 coolant layout. Cut the barbs off and welded in -16 AN top and -20 AN bottom. I still need to add a -6 ORB fitting for the expansion tank. I bolted the Chevy Volt cooling fan up after a tiny bit of clearancing work.
I then machined small aluminum blocks, drilled/tapped them, bolted them to the OEM Aston AC condenser and then welded them to the radiator.
The stack is very close in overall size to the OEM setup, and fits roughly in the same place. The OEM isolators won't work, but the bolt-in radiator "crossmember" that came on the car was close enough. I cut up some hockey pucks, added rivnuts to the crossmember, and bolted the pucks in to isolate/locate the bottom of the radiator. It's not stupid if it works.
Next up was the oil cooler. The car had a stock one that wouldn't fit my needs well, so I picked up a basic aftermarket bar/plate unit that was similar in size to OEM. The OEM until also had a duct that routed the hot air out the bottom of the front undertray, so I figured I'd copy that design as well. The stock piece was plastic and a little fragile, so I made the new one out of aluminum, and bolted it to the radiator crossmember. The upper mounts for the oil cooler mount to the crash bar (more rivnuts) and the lower mount is the fabricated crossbar you see in the pictures below.
The oil cooler hoses are also routed. I'll add some heat protection and chafing protection/routing control later, but they're in the correct area at least.
This last remaining gap is where the heat exchanger for the supercharger will slot in. Hopefully I'll have that finished up next week, then build the radiator hoses, finish the power steering lines, and start sorting out dry sump tank mounting and supercharger reservoir/hoses.
I had quite a few ideas on how I wanted this to work, but here's the basic concept:
Ordered a radiator that roughly matched the stock unit, but was dual pass, passenger side inlet/outlet, to better fit the LT4 coolant layout. Cut the barbs off and welded in -16 AN top and -20 AN bottom. I still need to add a -6 ORB fitting for the expansion tank. I bolted the Chevy Volt cooling fan up after a tiny bit of clearancing work.
I then machined small aluminum blocks, drilled/tapped them, bolted them to the OEM Aston AC condenser and then welded them to the radiator.
The stack is very close in overall size to the OEM setup, and fits roughly in the same place. The OEM isolators won't work, but the bolt-in radiator "crossmember" that came on the car was close enough. I cut up some hockey pucks, added rivnuts to the crossmember, and bolted the pucks in to isolate/locate the bottom of the radiator. It's not stupid if it works.
Next up was the oil cooler. The car had a stock one that wouldn't fit my needs well, so I picked up a basic aftermarket bar/plate unit that was similar in size to OEM. The OEM until also had a duct that routed the hot air out the bottom of the front undertray, so I figured I'd copy that design as well. The stock piece was plastic and a little fragile, so I made the new one out of aluminum, and bolted it to the radiator crossmember. The upper mounts for the oil cooler mount to the crash bar (more rivnuts) and the lower mount is the fabricated crossbar you see in the pictures below.
The oil cooler hoses are also routed. I'll add some heat protection and chafing protection/routing control later, but they're in the correct area at least.
This last remaining gap is where the heat exchanger for the supercharger will slot in. Hopefully I'll have that finished up next week, then build the radiator hoses, finish the power steering lines, and start sorting out dry sump tank mounting and supercharger reservoir/hoses.
80
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: December 29, 2023, 01:36:42 PM »
LOL, you guys are cracking me up. 
This accessory drive, man, what a pain in the ass. Clearance is TIGHT all over, but it fits. New lid is on, and AN fittings are welded to the thermostat housing and water pump. I like that the LT water pump is separate from the housing, so I don't have to worry about redoing mods, welding, etc. when the pump needs replaced.
Torque tube clearance mods. It looks ugly in pictures, but actually looks okay in person. Light reflecting weird or whatever. This wasn't the most fun welding job ever.
This accessory drive, man, what a pain in the ass. Clearance is TIGHT all over, but it fits. New lid is on, and AN fittings are welded to the thermostat housing and water pump. I like that the LT water pump is separate from the housing, so I don't have to worry about redoing mods, welding, etc. when the pump needs replaced.
Torque tube clearance mods. It looks ugly in pictures, but actually looks okay in person. Light reflecting weird or whatever. This wasn't the most fun welding job ever.
81
Build Threads / Re: RX-7 FD: Project Kraken
« on: December 29, 2023, 01:29:39 PM »
Love all the pictures/description, thanks for sharing. You've got a penchant for big projects!
82
Build Threads / Re: Dark Phoenix Trans Am: LSX Twin Turbo
« on: December 28, 2023, 11:03:32 AM »
Way cool. That's quite a project!
83
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: December 22, 2023, 12:36:51 PM »
Thanks! I'm out of town this weekend for Christmas, but will be back with some extra free time (compared to normal) next week/weekend. Hoping to make good progress!
I got a decent deal on a DSX billet lid for the blower. I have an earlier LT4, which has a lower lid that apparently makes less power, so this should add 20-25 HP (at least the internet says so). My biggest draw was not having it say "Corvette" under the hood. I do like the subtle "LT4" cast in the intercooler coolant manifold though. I'm hoping to make this a "if you know, you know" under the hood where nothing is particularly obvious from a "not stock" standpoint. Anyone attentive will notice AN hoses, billet/fabricated parts, etc. but I expect a lot of people won't immediately realize it's an LS/not the OEM engine.
I got a decent deal on a DSX billet lid for the blower. I have an earlier LT4, which has a lower lid that apparently makes less power, so this should add 20-25 HP (at least the internet says so). My biggest draw was not having it say "Corvette" under the hood. I do like the subtle "LT4" cast in the intercooler coolant manifold though. I'm hoping to make this a "if you know, you know" under the hood where nothing is particularly obvious from a "not stock" standpoint. Anyone attentive will notice AN hoses, billet/fabricated parts, etc. but I expect a lot of people won't immediately realize it's an LS/not the OEM engine.
84
Build Threads / Re: Akina's build
« on: December 22, 2023, 12:33:22 PM »
Fab work looks great! I love the exhaust!
85
Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Can we talk FC front wheel bearings
« on: December 21, 2023, 09:52:59 PM »
I put 25* in 3/4” x 1.5” steel with my SWAG in a 20 ton. No damage but it wasn’t super happy doing it, haha.
86
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: December 19, 2023, 08:34:23 AM »
I wanted the Radium swivels for the oil system, but they don't make a -12. 
I've been a big fan of all of their stuff I've used so far. Most of my fuel/breathing stuff is either Radium, Deatschwerks or Injector Dynamics at this point. No complaints with any of them, other than ID pricing... LOL
I'm using an XRP ultra low profile 90* adapter (-12 ORB to -12 male) for the oil "OUT" on the pan (pump output), and an XRP low profile high-flow 90* -12 hose end on the "IN" side. The dry sump tank has comparatively more clearance and just needs a couple 90* standard hose ends. I'm using Fragola 3000 series for the oil lines themselves.
I did pick up a Radium dual catch can for the breathing/PCV system on the car.
I've been a big fan of all of their stuff I've used so far. Most of my fuel/breathing stuff is either Radium, Deatschwerks or Injector Dynamics at this point. No complaints with any of them, other than ID pricing... LOL
I'm using an XRP ultra low profile 90* adapter (-12 ORB to -12 male) for the oil "OUT" on the pan (pump output), and an XRP low profile high-flow 90* -12 hose end on the "IN" side. The dry sump tank has comparatively more clearance and just needs a couple 90* standard hose ends. I'm using Fragola 3000 series for the oil lines themselves.
I did pick up a Radium dual catch can for the breathing/PCV system on the car.
87
Parts for Sale / Re: Holley premium 150 amp alternator $350
« on: December 18, 2023, 03:26:30 PM »
Dang, just bought one of these a week ago. Hah.
88
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: December 18, 2023, 08:59:15 AM »
Torque tube "bell" modifications are finished; clearance is sufficient and the cuts have been plated in with 1/4" 6061 and welded inside and out.
Tunnel mods are also done, with plates made to fit, then installed with 3M structural adhesive and 1/4" rivets.
None of that was fun. It was anti-fun. This week, if I get a chance, I'll do a final pass on torque tube clearance validation, then put the engine back in and validate torque tube length, and get the tube down to Indy in a week or two (depending on when RPM is open).
I'm much more excited to start on the cooling systems. I'm not that excited to drop the rear subframe to do the bracing work on that. That also doesn't look that fun. LOL
I also started ordering all the fittings for the oil and cooling systems. Tight radius -12 fittings are freaking expensive. LOL
Tunnel mods are also done, with plates made to fit, then installed with 3M structural adhesive and 1/4" rivets.
None of that was fun. It was anti-fun. This week, if I get a chance, I'll do a final pass on torque tube clearance validation, then put the engine back in and validate torque tube length, and get the tube down to Indy in a week or two (depending on when RPM is open).
I'm much more excited to start on the cooling systems. I'm not that excited to drop the rear subframe to do the bracing work on that. That also doesn't look that fun. LOL
I also started ordering all the fittings for the oil and cooling systems. Tight radius -12 fittings are freaking expensive. LOL
89
Build Threads / Re: Aston Martin V8 Vantage
« on: December 16, 2023, 10:10:10 PM »
Working through the tunnel and torque tube work. Man, this is fussy.
I dropped the engine first, so that I could put the torque tube in. To make the torque tube fit up easier, I cut off all of the harness clips that are on it stock. Before I cut the bumps out of the tunnel, I needed to move the seats forward, and pull the battery (behind the passenger seat). Then I could cut out the "bumps" in the tunnel. So now I have 4" x 6" holes in the tunnel behind the seats.
Before I can finish THAT project, I need to clearance the torque tube. The rear bell hits, which I expected as the Dynotorque car had the same issue. I just copied his system of cutting a couple chunks out of the bellhousing (it's not really a belhousing since it just has the splined attachment in it) until it clears. Then I cut some 1/4" plate to fill that in, and welded the inside and outside, then ground the outside back smooth where it's tight. I figure doing all of this work BEFORE I have the torque tube shortened makes sense as it'll allow it be trued up. I don't think it'll move much (it's a big hunk of cast aluminum vs. the welding I'm doing), but better safe than sorry.
Anywho, clearance of the torque tube is done, and I'm able to fit it all up in place. I built one fill plate for the torque tube rear "bell" and welded/ground it. I'll do the other one tomorrow, though I'm getting dangerously low on argon (that ONLY happens on weekends...). My 3M chassis bond and structural rivets came in today, so if I get through the torque tube work, I'll fight through forming those fill plates in and then bond them to the chassis to clear up the big ass holes in the tunnel. My intention now is to attach them on the inside of the car, to maximize clearance, as clearance is the name of the game.
Once ALL of that's done, and I've rechecked it fits with everything done, I'll drop everything back out (yet again) and put the engine back in, then put the transmission in its verified position from the previous step, measure the needed torque tube length, and then I can take it down to Indy to get reworked. When that's gone, I can start on the cooling system, power steering, oil scavenge and breather systems.
Depending on how long it takes, I'll get going on electrical as well. I really need the torque tube back so that I can mount the whole drivetrain up BEFORE I build transmission mounts, and I need transmission mounts before I start sorting halfshafts. The good news is I have plenty of bits available to keep me busy for 4-6 weeks. The half shafts are really the last part that "scares" me a bit as I don't have a solution for that, which means I don't have a cost estimate. That's never good news in my experience.
I dropped the engine first, so that I could put the torque tube in. To make the torque tube fit up easier, I cut off all of the harness clips that are on it stock. Before I cut the bumps out of the tunnel, I needed to move the seats forward, and pull the battery (behind the passenger seat). Then I could cut out the "bumps" in the tunnel. So now I have 4" x 6" holes in the tunnel behind the seats.
Before I can finish THAT project, I need to clearance the torque tube. The rear bell hits, which I expected as the Dynotorque car had the same issue. I just copied his system of cutting a couple chunks out of the bellhousing (it's not really a belhousing since it just has the splined attachment in it) until it clears. Then I cut some 1/4" plate to fill that in, and welded the inside and outside, then ground the outside back smooth where it's tight. I figure doing all of this work BEFORE I have the torque tube shortened makes sense as it'll allow it be trued up. I don't think it'll move much (it's a big hunk of cast aluminum vs. the welding I'm doing), but better safe than sorry.
Anywho, clearance of the torque tube is done, and I'm able to fit it all up in place. I built one fill plate for the torque tube rear "bell" and welded/ground it. I'll do the other one tomorrow, though I'm getting dangerously low on argon (that ONLY happens on weekends...). My 3M chassis bond and structural rivets came in today, so if I get through the torque tube work, I'll fight through forming those fill plates in and then bond them to the chassis to clear up the big ass holes in the tunnel. My intention now is to attach them on the inside of the car, to maximize clearance, as clearance is the name of the game.
Once ALL of that's done, and I've rechecked it fits with everything done, I'll drop everything back out (yet again) and put the engine back in, then put the transmission in its verified position from the previous step, measure the needed torque tube length, and then I can take it down to Indy to get reworked. When that's gone, I can start on the cooling system, power steering, oil scavenge and breather systems.
Depending on how long it takes, I'll get going on electrical as well. I really need the torque tube back so that I can mount the whole drivetrain up BEFORE I build transmission mounts, and I need transmission mounts before I start sorting halfshafts. The good news is I have plenty of bits available to keep me busy for 4-6 weeks. The half shafts are really the last part that "scares" me a bit as I don't have a solution for that, which means I don't have a cost estimate. That's never good news in my experience.
90
Drivetrain / Re: Vibration/ exhaust noise at 1800 rpm
« on: December 15, 2023, 06:30:22 PM »Out of curiosity, does the spec twin have sprung hubs? McLeod was saying to balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and intermediate plate all together. Still seems really shitty it doesn’t come that way.
I can't recall which sub-model I have, one does, one doesn't. Not helpful, I know.