August 25, 2019, 04:02:39 AM

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Messages - digitalsolo

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31
Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: August 07, 2019, 02:44:02 PM »
Okay, so an update on the sensor issues.

I've replaced the flex fuel sensor with a brand new one (borrowed from BeasTT) and no change.  I did notice that I see some random frequency data when the fuel pumps spin up and the sensor is connected.   As soon as the car starts, that data is gone.   Interesting...   That brings me to my next theory:  the long run of wiring from front/rear is getting noise and breaking the signal somehow.    The sensor is separately grounded (as it is supposed to be) so it's not a ground issue (at least not directly).    I'm going to do a few things to try and sort this:

1.  Running a new ground from the battery directly to the "ground bus bar" for my ECU/sensors/etc. in the dash.   Right now each grounds to the chassis with a welded stud.   That should be fine (and testing shows no potential between them) but hey, it can't hurt anything.
2.  Going to connect the flex fuel sensor directly to the ECU with a short lead.    This will tell me if I'm getting noise/loss/etc. in the path.
3.  This isn't related, but I'm going to run a new lead to the trunk (2-3 actually) for staging my fuel pumps to drop fuel temperatures.   I'm also replacing my giant 450lph lift pump with a 190lph (which should be plenty for a lift pump).

That's the fuel system side.     I'm hopeful that the flex will start working.   If it doesn't, I'll try it on another digital input.    AEM did get me some info, namely that each digital input is its own transistor, so even killing one shouldn't hurt the others.

Next up, cam sensors.   Specifically intake cam sensors.   My driver side works now.   I have no idea why it works.   I unplugged it, poked around at it a bit, and plugged it back in, and boom.  Works.   I'd blame a harness problem, but I had unplugged it before, tested continuity, voltage, etc.  It was fine.  Plugged it in, no workie.   Did it again looking at other stuff, plugged it in and now it works every time.   Weird....

Passenger side harness reads proper, but there is no data in the ECU.   I need an oscilloscope to test it further, so for now I'm going to get both banks to read off the driver side sensor to get VVT feedback working (the other 3 cams read within .1* of each other, so I feel comfortable cloning both intakes for now).   I'll get it scoped at some point and replace the sensor if I have to, though that requires pulling the engine forward a few inches because it's right against the firewall.  :(    No fun.

Hopefully I can get flex working, and hopefully the cam sensor weirdness is done (mostly) and I can start getting the car to behave properly.   These are really the last few major things stopping me from really being able to dial it in and start to hammer on it more.

32
Build Threads / Re: LT1 in an 85 GSL
« on: August 07, 2019, 02:28:04 PM »
That looks like a ton of work to make that bodykit fit up.   It's coming out pretty well though!

33
Build Threads / Re: Four's 1JZ swapped FD Project - Rx7upra
« on: August 06, 2019, 08:09:56 PM »
That’s a good looking engine bay

34
Build Threads / Re: 57 Buick Special GMT900 AWD Frame swap
« on: August 05, 2019, 11:19:32 AM »
I think it's about the appropriate amount of ghetto.  :D

35
Build Threads / Re: LOF's LS1 FC track car build
« on: August 04, 2019, 11:47:19 PM »
That looks really, really good!    Nice work on the touchups!

36
Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: August 04, 2019, 11:04:03 PM »
So...   turns out none of the digital inputs on my AEM Infinity are currently reading.   I don't know why.   Re-validated wiring today...  it's correct.   Reapplied firmware and tested everything, still nothing.    I suppose both of my cam sensors and my flex sensor are all bad, but...  that seems unlikely.   Emailed AEM.    This is frustrating.

Car runs fine with no intake cam sensors, but I can't really utilize the VVT effectively on them.   The exhaust cams are on VR sensors (as is the crank) and work fine.

37
You can modify a 2/3 jaw puller to pull that 5/6 cluster for like 4 bucks in steel.   Just make longer arms between the “hub” and “fingers”. There are some guides.    It’s not super annoying, but those are on their pretty good most of the time.

38
Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: July 30, 2019, 08:24:06 AM »
I think the surge is around a liter and a half.

My brake lines are CuNiFer, yes.

And yeah, spending lots of money on stuff that needs modifications is just par for the course at this point I guess.

39
It stays sticky a bit and dries without oxygen so it’s really good for sealing a machines surface.    The most common one I see is called “Hondabond” and it’s really really good stuff.

40
Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: July 29, 2019, 02:34:19 PM »
So, this was a way bigger pain in the ass than I expected.   Here's the rundown:

First, designed and built a "cage" for the fuel cell.   It's simple, but supports it well.   0.063 wall 1" square upper frame, .125" angle iron lower "seat" for the cell and some braces made out of the 1" square.   Good news:  It fit SNUG.  Bad news, it's too damn snug and getting the fuel cell "container" (the metal box that holds it) back out is probably almost impossible now that it's all installed.    That's not really a big deal though, just annoying.

Here's the "cage":



Then I pulled the stock tank out, cut a hole fitted to the cage, leveled it (or nearly so, it's a couple degrees off) with the car at normal ride height and fully welded it to the floorpan/trunk "frame rails":



I then cut some closeout panels and stitch welded those to the cell cage and the factory floors.   That was then all seam sealed and everything was covered with bedliner (the whole car is covered in bedliner underneath and most of it is covered under the sound deadening as extra sound deadening and rust prevention).

Inside of the cell, the CFC (the in cell surge tank) was a bit of a debacle.   It was supposed to clear my fuel cell by almost an inch, vertically.   It didn't.   I cut the surge tank down 3/4" in height and welded it back together, which sucked because it was thin and whatever alloy it was, it welded like crap.   That wasn't fun.   Then I broke an inlet on a fuel pump (plastic) which also sucked, because that's >100 dollars gone.   It was not a great day.     Anywho, I kept fighting it until I won, and got it installed.

The lines are all aluminum hard line and will be getting braces for strain/vibration relief soon, just haven't had a chance yet.    Electrical uses my old system, but I activated the second relay (I planned ahead for this when I started the wiring) so 1x 60 amp relay runs 1 pump and 1x 60 amp relay runs the other 2 pumps in the surge tank.    The hard line that runs off to the side is the tank vent and has a breather filter on it under the car.    The breather and the fill tube have rollover vents on them as well.

Final installed pics:



Vent tube:



Wiring, filter (Deatschwerks 160mm) and E85 sensor:



And the CFC surge tank:




41
Build Threads / Re: My "Blue Devil" matchbox racer build 2.0
« on: July 29, 2019, 02:23:43 PM »
Could you make a fresh air duct that pops in with the sunroof open and feed it to the helmet?

Agreed on the upgraded radiator and oil cooler (or coolers).   Factory R1 position would work well for them, if properly ducted.

42
Build Threads / Re: Four's 1JZ swapped FD Project - Rx7upra
« on: July 29, 2019, 02:18:03 PM »
Purty!

43
1.   Remove tailshaft
2.   Clean and tape over the back of the tranny
3.   Grind a "v" in the crack and drill a 1/8" hole at the root and clean it out with Brakeleen
4.   JB Weld the "v" and hole
5.   Reinstall tailshaft with anerobic sealant on the seam

I think you could do that without pulling it apart or even out of the car.   I've pulled a tailshaft with it in the car before.   Just put a rag in where you drill the hole so no metal gets into the transmission.   I know people act like JB Weld is hack, but it's perfect for things like this and it's easier (and likely more reliable) than welding dirty tranny fluid soaked aluminum.

Pulling the housing all the way apart is a pain in the ass, but doable (just watch the fork/shaft alignment.   If you do that just get it welded up.

44
Build Threads / Re: LS Blazer
« on: July 29, 2019, 01:24:41 PM »
I have a Dymo Rhino 4200 and use cheap heat shrink and just wrap it in nice clear shrink as a protectant.  Works well for me thus far.

45
Build Threads / Re: LS Blazer
« on: July 26, 2019, 11:10:07 AM »
This is utterly unrelated, but I read "Tow/Haul" as "Town Hall" and was trying to figure out what the town hall wire would do.   :D

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