May 28, 2020, 11:02:53 PM

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Messages - digitalsolo

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I've used some alternatives and found BIG improvements in sound and heat control, I'm a believer in the product/concept.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 09:38:30 PM »
So, circling back to the sensors, here's a shot of what the cam hall sensors look like on the scope:



This is a great example of why you want to use the falling edge for this sensor.   See how the rising (left) edge of the "bump" is rounded, but the falling (right) edge is sharp?    That means that you want to use that falling edge as it will be a lot more crisp, signal wise.    This is a resultant of how the hall sensor functions.   Just figured I'd share that.

Back to the topic at hand.   I toned out all the injector wiring (power and signal) and the coil power (I'll do signal tomorrow).   All good.   I think I may know what is going on though.    It turns out the connectors I used for the fuel injectors were not locking in properly.  I found that when I pulled on them, all but 2 just pulled right off.   They were aftermarket connectors I purchased because I could seal them fully.    Apparently they suck.   So I binned those and disassembled stock injector plugs, repinned the injector sub-harnesses and installed the stock injectors connectors with fresh pins.    Those locked in properly.     I'm betting that they were not making good/consistent contact.   I'll check the coils tomorrow anyway since it's apart and see if everything is happy there, but since I've checked the harness like 37 times, I'm expecting them to be good.

Hopefully tomorrow night I'll have it running properly.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 04:09:18 PM »
Did some quick work on my lunch break and found that plug 4 was almost clean, plug 7 is totally clean and the others are sooted up like crazy, so it's FAT (I knew it was fat), and those two cylinders are currently dead.    I put 8 new plugs in, gapped for boost this time, and I moved the coils to different cylinders (I don't think there is anything wrong with them, but it's an easy troubleshooting step).

Next I'm going to pull the injectors and move those two injectors, then tone out power/ground on all 8 coils and all 8 injectors and make sure the wiring is fine, re-seat everything and see if it seems any happier.

Something is wonky in my Haltech software, in that it sees the WBO2s, but the tabs for setting up WBO2 control are missing.   I'm not sure if I need to do something in setup or not, but that's odd, so right now I have no idea if it's compensating or not.   My guess is that it's because I have a CAN wideband and it makes it so I have to be hooked up to the ECU to see those settings?   Dunno yet, but I'll find out next time it's running.  I do know where to see if I have trims active at least (I just can't turn them on/off or adjust them without that tab).   I did notice that I only had one channel of the wideband enabled, and one bank seems to run slightly rich, while the other was leaning out, so maybe it was trimming.    Anywho, I'll get a look at it after work tonight before martial arts class.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 12:55:18 PM »
Did ID give you a hard time when ordering the adapters? I wanted to buy their ID2000 top-hats for my Bosch NGI-2s but they wanted me to send photo evidence that they were going on genuine ID injectors. Apparently they had trouble with people buying their branded top hats and putting them on generic Bosch injectors and reselling at ID prices lol.

Nope, they just sent me a Paypal invoice and shipped them over.  I was asking for the "bottom hats" though so maybe that's different because those are unbranded.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 10:33:12 AM »
Unrelated (well, kinda related) to the fixing fueling issues, I have ID1050x injectors in the car.   They came out of a GT500 originally, and they don't really fit the Coyote intake very well.    I put spacers on the tops, but they sit really low and it's a real SOB to get them in just right and sometimes they knock the connectors loose in the process.   ID sells the injectors with a lower spacer that sets them in the right height, so I just hit them up to see if they sell those separately, and they do.   So I ordered a set of those which will let me sort out my injector/rail/connector spacing better, and just make it less ghetto than my current setup.  :D

I'm also considering redoing my underhood fuel lines as they aren't PTFE lines currently and they really should be for long term.   The PTFE lines are slightly smaller externally as well, which is just nicer to deal with.   if I do that, I may put Radium rails on the car with a pulsation damper and possibly an upgraded regulator as I think that if I top out this setup, my regulator might be a little undersized.   That's stuff for later in the season/fall though, most likely.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 10:07:40 AM »
Dude, I wired the cam sensors backwards, I make mistakes!   Hahaha

Thatís on my list to check for sure.    Iím pretty sure I have correction off, BUT I have noticed it goes leaner as time passes, which may mean I do have it on and itís exactly as you say.

My hit list is:

Tone out all 8 injectors to validate them.
Tone out all 8 coils to validate them.
Replace plugs (I know they are toast)
Validate fueling is open loop.
Input ID settings for short pulse adder.

I have already validated firing order and timing settings are right, and injector/coil to bank mapping is good in the ECU.

Iím sure itís something silly.   I just didnít see a reason to chase that until I had all the sensors reading correctly.    Keep the ideas coming they are always appreciated!

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 27, 2020, 11:08:52 PM »
Oh it always is, it's just the "how long does it take to find the simple problem" game that's frustrating.   Heh.

Hopefully the weird AFRs are something equally simple.   Actually, hopefully they're much easier to find, because this was a combination of weird, stupid problems and that crap sucked.

I do want to give some kudos to Haltech.   Their tech support got back to me the day after the holiday with the initial answer, and when I asked a second question, they literally read the entire explanation, validated answers to my questions and answered all 3 of them in about 20 minutes.   They also offered to remote into my laptop to help if needed.   That's some pretty great customer service.   Hopefully they're consistently that helpful.   I try to be a good customer and advocate for companies that treat me well, it'd be nice to actually be able to add an ECU manufacturer to that list, I've had so many bad/frustrating experiences with other ones.

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Interior/Exterior / Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« on: May 27, 2020, 07:12:34 PM »
Epoxy primers aren't UV stable, but they're not permeable, so they can be nice if you need to leave it in primer for a while.   I still wouldn't drive it around for a year that way or anything though.

I had mine in epoxy and it was fine but it was in the garage the whole time.  Clausen stuff is really good, but it is a little spendy.   The Rust Defender stuff sands sooooo nice though.    When I was ready to paint, I scuffed the epoxy, then coated it with the Rust Defender, then blocked that out, did a little body work, did a light poly primer (Eastwood) on top of that, final sanded that, then shot base/clear.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 27, 2020, 07:09:48 PM »
Well, it's time to troubleshoot the next problem anyway.   LOL

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 27, 2020, 05:47:33 PM »
Sooo, I have it syncing now.    Scope showed random signal then random dead air.    Turns out my probes had pushed the pin levers in a little at the sensors and they were rattling around and putting out inconsistent signal.

Bent the levers back and theyíre dead solid on the scope and the ECU is happy.

Ugh.   Next is ďwhy are my banks 3 points of AFR apart?Ē    Thatís an easier diagnostic though!    Progress!

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 27, 2020, 03:27:39 PM »
Spent a few minutes today on the cam sensor wiring and got it sorted out.    Didn't do a damned thing though, zero change.    So either the sensors are dead or something else is wonky.   Haltech validated all of my settings and wiring design should work fine (currently running 8V to the sensor which they agreed with due to it being a regulated power source vs. the unregulated 12-14V ignition voltage).   I did notice that I see some frequency out of my other 3 sensors (1 hall and 2 VR).  I guess it could just be dead from mis-wiring it.

I don't think I can get that sensor out of the car without pulling the engine off the mounts and pulling the cooling system, exhaust, turbos, steering, intake, fuel...   so that's not great news.    I guess I have about 14 hours of labor ahead to eliminate that variable.   I will scope it first, of course, but I'm not optimistic at this point.   We'll see how it goes.

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Interior/Exterior / Re: DIY Paint Job Advice
« on: May 27, 2020, 08:21:43 AM »
I used Eastwood Epoxy primer + final poly filler primer on my car.   No complaints thus far.   It was in epoxy for ~18 months (stored inside in my garage).    I did use Rust Defender (https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender) for the main filler/sanding coat because it had rave reviews and it was really, really good.   Went on thick and consistent and sanded really easy.

I also have Eastwood ceramic chassis black (version 2 or whatever, the newer one) in my engine bay and it has held up well.    FWIW, I used TCP Global for the top coat/clear coat and was very happy with them.   I've used them for a couple projects and had zero complaints.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 26, 2020, 11:33:55 PM »
Thanks for the direction regardless.   I appreciate all of your time on this.   I'm back to feeling moderately hopeful that this thing will be on the road annoying my neighbor across the street soon.  :D

C'mon now, play nice.  :poke:

He started it.    :halo:

I've talked to a couple of the folks at Haltech in the hopes of a few other features getting added. Test output modes for the coils and injectors would be nice.
The Megasquirt allows full testing of both that allows you to figure out exact injector data for the deadtime and small pulse width for your exact setup.
It's "on their list".

Yeah, sometimes I wish I could just jump in to the code and add things.   CAN support, o-scope functions, etc, a lot of it isn't magic, just time to write the code.    One big advantage of MS3 I suppose.    It seems that really dialing in the software is, obviously, the hardest part of ECU design.   At the end of the day that's why Motec costs so damned much.   They really, really dialed in their software and they fully expect you to pay for it.    Anyway, that sounds down on Haltech and it's not at all, for the price point they hit, it seems to be a great product and their support is pretty darn good so far, other than not helping with my harness question.    I emailed them about this issue and they offered to remote into my laptop and control the car and troubleshoot it with me.    That's miles of improvement compared to AEM not answering my emails!

Hopefully next is getting it running right and starting to get that tune sorted out.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 26, 2020, 10:15:29 PM »
Thanks for the direction regardless.   I appreciate all of your time on this.   I'm back to feeling moderately hopeful that this thing will be on the road annoying my neighbor across the street soon.  :D

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: May 26, 2020, 10:09:08 PM »
They do not.   They have it on "the list of features to add" but not there yet.

That said, I'll take the scope back tomorrow because...  I'm an idiot.   A giant, stinkin' idiot.

I was testing wiring at my extension harness, not the actual plug that goes into the sensor, and my extension harness is totally fine.   The plug that connects that to the sensor though, that plug, that plug is wired backwards.   SON OF A BI-ATCH.

Anywho, I didn't catch it when I -did- test that plug because I saw the differential voltages and didn't think about the fact that the pull up was...   pulling up resistors.   And when I toned it, I toned it at the other plug because I could reach it easily.    It's ALWAYS something stupid, but man, I didn't realize how stupid.   Good news is that sensor should be fine (I hope, because changing it is negative 100 fun meter points), and I'll flip the wires tomorrow and re-test it.    Oh well, at least the timing is checked.  Oy.

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