September 15, 2019, 04:27:05 PM

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Messages - waLIEN

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1
The weather out here finally cooled down enough for me to do some work in the garage. By using my multimeter to measure resistance, I found that the green/white wire is in fact the POST ECU-VSS green/white wire (Pin 50/red connector on the ECU). The other grey wire does go back to the red w/ orange stripe in the factory gauge cluster wiring (white connector).

With this in mind, I will need to use the following DIP switch settings:
......dip #1- on
......dip #2- on
......dip #3- off
......dip #4- on

TO-DO: I now have to figure out what coarse/fine settings to use. I supposed I can leave it at the default 15/15 and then take it for a drive and use the up/down buttons to fine tune it?

2
The Lounge / Re: 3D Printer Build Thread - Any interest?
« on: September 01, 2017, 05:40:31 PM »
The issue I've run into is that modeling the FD interior parts is a pretty difficult task;   they're all kinds of funky curves.   You'd really need a good 3D laser scanner to dial them in.

I can't wait for the day where someone will 3D print some FD LCAs.

3
Does the DD sensor in go to the purple white VSS high wire? You should tap into the VSS signal high before the PCM. Not the VSS out drk grn white. The signal the PCM puts out may not have the voltage needed for the DD. You can check the output with an o-scope if you have access. If not it needs a pull up resistor to get the needed voltage on the signal.

Mine was tapped into the VSS high and worked fine. Only problem is that you cannot use the PCM to modify the signal for gear ratio and tire size.

I am unsure of whether or not it's the pre-ECU or post-ECU wire. Is there a way I can measure it with a multimeter at all? I believe EAT-PEZ's harness might be based off of Granny's old instructions which dictate this:
Quote
Speedometer Signal Wiring...The RX-7's speedometer originally got it's signal from a generator mounted on the driver's side of the RX-7 transmission's tailhousing. The easiest way to correct this is to use a "digital ratio adapter", such as the Dakota Digital SGI-5C, which is wired as follows...
...SGI-5C POWER...connect to RX-7 B1-01 ECU plug terminal 1B, a 12v switched power source that comes thru the RX-7's main "EGI" relay.
...SGI-5C GROUND...connect to the salvaged emissions harness side of RX-7 X-14 connector's orange wire (wire color changes to yellow w/ white stripe on the dash harness side of X-14). This wire should also be connected to a good chassis ground such as one of the former RX-7 ECU mounting studs.
...SGI-5C INPUT...connect to LS1 harness C-220 connector terminal "K", a dark green w/ white stripe wire that comes from the LS1 PCM's 4000ppm VSS signal output.
...SGI-5C OUT 3...connect salvaged emissions harness half of RX-7 X-14 connector's green (manual trans) or green w/ black stripe (auto trans) wire (wire color changes to yellow w/ red stripe on the dash harness side of X-14). Use output 3, and set the dip switches as follows...
......dip #1- on
......dip #2- on
......dip #3- off
......dip #4- on
http://grannys.tripod.com/3LS18.html

In that quote, it says the "INPUT" wire is "dark green w/ white stripe wire that comes from the LS1 PCM's 4000ppm VSS signal output," which is what I think see on my harness.  That would make sense, as when I reversed the input/OUT3 wires, it began working for a second at idle. If such is the case, do I still need a pull up resistor?




4
Hi All,

I'm having an issue with getting my speedometer to work on my 1993 FD. I'm using the EAT PEZ harness (see below) with a Dakota Digital converter box. I'm using a 2000 Camaro SS ECU and I have the stock 4.10 rear.



I set it up per Mattster03's guide: https://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=192.0

I set it to the following settings:
DIP 1,2: OFF
DIP 3,4: ON
11 coarse, 15 fine
POWER: red Wire
GROUND: black wire
INPUT: grey wire
OUT3: green wire


I went out for a short drive up to ~35 mph and the speedo didn't budge at all. I decided that maybe the input/output wires were crossed, so I shut the car off and flipped the wires to this setup:

POWER: red Wire
GROUND: black wire
INPUT: green wire
OUT3: grey wire


I turned the car on and the speedo fluctuated between 5-30 mph for ~10 seconds, then it stopped. Mind you, the car was sitting still. I began driving, thinking I got it working. I then went to ~20-30 mph, but the speedo didn't budge at all. Odd, huh?

I've tried two known good gauge clusters (one Mazdaspeed and one OE that had been repaired by Zepco). All other gauges are reading correctly, including the tachometer.

I'm out of ideas of what to try next. What would you guys suggest? Thanks in advance!

5
General Tech / Re: LS Swap Power Steering - The Everything Thread
« on: July 07, 2017, 09:27:18 PM »
My bad. I guess I was fed some bad info. Oops

No worries -- I looked into it further and it appears the stock Fbody PS assembly has a filter. Maybe you were referring to that?

6
Parts for Sale / Re: r1 FD interior part out and extras
« on: July 04, 2017, 08:29:47 PM »
Do you have the center console and driver side dash AC vent (it's like the end piece on the dash board)?

7
Is the price negotiable on the toe links?

8
General Tech / Re: LS Swap Power Steering - The Everything Thread
« on: July 01, 2017, 06:22:44 PM »
I have the stock FD rack with the TurnOne PS pressure reducing fitting. At speeds of over 80 MPH, the steering becomes overly light.

For those of you who have used the TurnOne conversion pump -- did you notice a significant reduction in how light the steering becomes at higher speeds?

9
General Tech / Re: LS Swap Power Steering - The Everything Thread
« on: July 01, 2017, 05:51:45 PM »
I'm getting ready to add power steering to my set up. In my research I saw that fds had power steering fluid filters. Are you guys using filters in your swaps?

Where did you hear this? There is no P/N for a PS filter for the FD. There is a power steering "cooling loop" which is just extra hard pipes for the PS fluid to have time to cool down a little.

10
General Tech / Re: 1 CAT or 2?
« on: June 14, 2017, 12:10:52 PM »
You want them as close to the engine as possible.
Yep. I did the same with some high flow metalicats that were positioned pretty much right after the collectors. They work reasonably well when they are warmed up.

11
General Tech / Re: Alternative Coolant Temp Sensor Adapter
« on: May 11, 2017, 12:45:49 AM »
Wow -- nice find! I'll have to keep this in mind as I also have the Autometer fitting.

12
Work it a bit and you shouldn't have to cut anything.

The coupler on the TB won't be on all the way on the top.

I'm a little unclear of what you mean. :confused:

13
UPDATE!

I purchased a new hood latch mechanism from RHDJapan (I literally overnighted parts from Japan!). It closed a little easier, but I realized I still needed to cut/massage the hood a little:



The hood closed much easier, but the hood still seems to be hitting the Samberg intake filter coupler, this causing an indent:


The coupler now seems like the highpoint and seems to be pushing the hood a little. Any suggestions guys? :banghead:

14
Thanks guys. I was able to get away for now by just shaving the throttle body. I was finally able to get it to close, but it also turns out that I need a hood latching mechanism.

15
It appears my Samberg intake is rubbing against the hood support bracing (see below).




Before I go willy-nilly with cutting the hood support, I went and searched for pictures of people's hoods with the cut. Unfortunately, my Google-Fu is not as strong as I thought it would be. :banghead:

Would someone kindly post a picture of their "cut" hoods? Thanks in advance!

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