April 25, 2019, 10:20:10 PM

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Messages - Exidous

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Build Threads / Re: AV8rZ (Refine, Enjoy, Drive) Build
« on: Today at 09:46:42 PM »
I'm going to guess $38k. Anyone else? :-)

So around spring of '17 I was in bad need of new tires. The Sumitomo HTR Z III were 7 years old and while not totally terrible in the dry at this point they were down right scary in the wet.
I had asked around about what size to get and LOF and Blue t2 were quite helpful in getting the sizes sorted.
The car originally had Falken 615's when I bought it and they had gone hard. It's wasn't terrible as I was in Hawaii at the time so I had a little experience with the 200TW tire.
In the spring of '17 I had decided on a set of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R (name is far too long). 255/35-18 and 295/30-18. The grip was so good that within a month I had split the stock diff shifting from 1st to 2nd. LOVED the tires.
Fast forward through a year in temp controlled storage while I was stationed in Korea and the tires had turned into rocks. Worse than the 7yr old 300TW Sumitomos. In San Antonio on a 90 day I had actually slid through a red light. Fortunately, it had just changed and no one was moving but me.
Prior to the hardening I loved the tire. Great feel and predictable. The back was a little vague but only because my rim wasn't quite wide enough for the 295 tire so it wandered a bit.
The tires now have 8/32" tread left having started at 10/32". After a bit of back and forth, a lot of reluctance on Yoko's part, dodgy excuses and a very helpful Discount Tire employee I'm able to get a pro-rated store credit for the tires. They are being sent back to Yokohama for analysis and if they find a manufacturing defect(hardening I hope) I'll get a full price refund rather than 75%. 75% because min depth is 2/32". So the advertise 10/32" but you only have 8/32" of usable depth. All manufacturers seem to do this. Makes a refund in my case go from 80% to 75%.... :-/
I was pretty skeptical early on about getting anything back. Trying to swallow a $1400 waste of money with 2k miles and no racing or track time was difficult to say the least. Discount Tire honestly was pretty awesome about it. Yokohama, not so much but they may make thing right still. I won't be holding my breath.
Maybe I just got a bad batch and they are better now but I wouldn't buy them again. The manufacturer just tried too hard to get out of honoring their warranty.

Yup, maybe with the later subframes it was fixed but mine needed to be pretty dang tight.

He always made almost amazing stuff. There was just one thing wrong somehow.

Parts for Sale / Feeler/price gauge 1990's Kinesis K58's/Veilside wing
« on: April 24, 2019, 01:11:17 AM »
These are straight out of the 90's before fast and furious was even a thing.

I'm curious what you folks think they might be worth. They'll be all sealed up and lip polished with new stems before sale. I'm just not certain if it will be worth it for me to replace the hardware. ($160) I cleaned the hardware in a vibratory polisher but they will rust I think. The factory anodizing had held up fantastically and is crazy hard.

17x8.5 +44
17x10 +35
Just checked these. Not 100% but really close.

No center caps :-(

They were a perfect fit on the car(FD stock body).

I also have a legit Veilside wing from the same era.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: Split rim wheel measurement help
« on: April 24, 2019, 12:58:47 AM »
I've got some 17" 3 piece Kinesis K58's laying around but that's it. They are currently apart. I'm refinishing them.

General Tech / Re: Auto FD to LS T56 questions (electrical)
« on: April 23, 2019, 11:07:53 AM »
The LS stuff doesn't care. As stated, just the cruise control is affected. It was 2005 but my first swap was an auto. Granny's may still have the documentation on their site about wiring. It had both auto and manual info on there.

The Lounge / Re: Justin Samberg - Vendor Relation Challenges
« on: April 23, 2019, 12:34:33 AM »
<3 you guys. Keep up the good work!

Headers? :-)

The Lounge / Re: Justin Samberg - Vendor Relation Challenges
« on: April 20, 2019, 01:51:24 PM »
Spill the beans! I'm making a shroud for my custom Howe and need ideas.
That being said, u built the vectors in vcarve(super easy to use) but I have to pay a min of $150 to get them out of the software. My coworker has a very expensive version of vcarve and it won't accept a vector from a trial version.

Anyone know a good program for designing parts(free)? I almost never make parts in cad/cam so it's a one time thing.

Sorry for the hijack. Moving on.

General Tech / Re: Smaller hood gas spring
« on: April 17, 2019, 12:36:26 PM »
They are not from Guden. They were a group buy on here.

General Tech / Re: Smaller hood gas spring
« on: April 16, 2019, 06:38:23 PM »
I got them straight from Guden. They have a $25 min order so ha had to get one extra end.

Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: April 16, 2019, 01:13:05 PM »
Not trying to give you a hard time Blake. :-) They do fit the factory styling. I just love the restomod look.

General Tech / Re: Smaller hood gas spring
« on: April 16, 2019, 12:30:01 PM »
I have not seen anyone selling just the brackets. Most aftermarket hoods aren't too much lighter than the aluminum stocker. It's the strength that's the issue. That being said, one strut barely held the stock hood up. I'd be hesitant to go all the way to 20lb each even with a CF hood. The struts are only $11 each so you can play with it if you want.

Electronics / Re: Two speed Taurus fan wiring (GM PCM)
« on: April 14, 2019, 12:17:30 AM »
I'd replace them. I bought the parts from mouser. Using molex and Delphi stuff.

Apparently Delphi has been rebranded. Wonder why.

General Tech / Smaller hood gas spring
« on: April 13, 2019, 02:52:03 PM »
So the hood spring kit was awesome but had a couple interference issues. This would actually cause the hood to bulge above the fenders. The spring was too big in diameter and the cnc bracket would hit one of the bolts.

I found a spring solution. Guden makes the GGN47-040-C. Same 40lb pressure. They are well priced too. That being said, now that they are on, I think 30lb would be better.

You'll also need the ball ends. EF090A-02

The area circled in red needs to be shaved down.

I did not use the spacers. Don't seem to have any issues. I don't think the full range of the joint is necessary on the Rx.
I did it the way bad obsession Motorsports did it on Binky. A laser and a piece of paper to mark the movements.

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