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Messages - AHarada

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Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: FD column mount electric power steering
« on: January 18, 2021, 08:19:08 PM »
Cool!   I have the same base hardware in my Mustang and I like it.

I looked around their site some more and it seems that they do have a torque sensing controller add-on to replace the adjustment dial. I’m going to try it out!

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: FD column mount electric power steering
« on: January 18, 2021, 08:15:49 PM »
I haven’t seen a DBW setup in person, but the EPS system doesn’t really go near the pedal. Here are some crappy pix:

I converted my rack to manual years ago by removing the internal seals, welding the quill shaft, and welding/grinding the holes. This system should work just as well on a power rack with looped lines.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: FD column mount electric power steering
« on: January 18, 2021, 02:26:29 AM »
Hmmm I’ve looked hard into this in the past didn’t know there was an FD specific kit. Roughly how much did it all cost you?

Really curious how the feel is through the electric assist.

After inquiring about it with Ken, he instructed me to order the Miata kit through the website, and to note that it was for an FD. So the pricing was the same as the Miata kit, with a good discount during Black Friday.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Re: FD column mount electric power steering
« on: January 18, 2021, 02:24:54 AM »
I finally got my FD out of storage and it arrived shortly before I left for a work trip. I was able to get the kit installed and working. I only moved the car around my driveway and parking in my garage, but it feels great. It is going to be a while before my car is registered and on the road where I can try it out at speed. This controller does use a knob and potentiometer to adjust assist, anywhere from zero assist all the way to being able to steer with a few fingers while stationary. Maybe a speed sensing controller will be available as an upgrade in the future.

The install was pretty straightforward. Initially I had a part that didn’t fit well, so I sent an email to Ken at Epowersteering.com during the holidays. He called me shortly after and I told him about the deficiency with the kit. He asked for some measurements, and he made and sent out a new part the next morning. After getting the new part, fitment is good and the craftsmanship of the parts are good as well. Ken has been super responsive and he stands behind his product. I did send him my core, so there should be another one available for an FD.

Parts for Sale / Re: Samberg V2 radiator
« on: January 02, 2021, 01:57:53 PM »

Electronics / Re: Warm positive battery terminal
« on: December 24, 2020, 01:15:48 PM »
Hey, FTD tops everything! That's awesome.

Aharada, your post made me curious, so I just checked the voltage at my battery with the car idling. Steady at 14.1 volts, stock alternator.

I had a self-exciting one for a while, it failed in just a few thousand miles, don't know why, nor do I know the brand, as it came with the car.

After it failed I changed to the stock one; as an electrical engineer, I've never like the self-exciting ones because they just sense the electrical system voltage at the alternator output terminal. The stock alternator has a "sense" wire that can be hooked anywhere into the harness, and the alternator will adjust its output to get the desired voltage where the sense wire is connected.

Any connectors or fuses in the circuit between the alternator output and the battery will reduce voltage a bit. The sense wire can be wired directly to the battery, and the alternator will adjust, and compensate for those connectors / fuses, to get the proper set voltage at the battery.

Yes, the sense wire is one more wire to hookup, so a bit of complexity is added, but I think it's worth it. So do the oems; as far as I know, they all use sense wires in their charging systems. I've read that the self-exciting alternators were first developed for stationary industrial engines with very simple electrical systems, you can imagine they work well there, and in pure race cars.

I think your DR44, with a fairly high 14.7v set point, is kind of brute forcing the system with a pretty high set point to overcome any voltage drops in the harness. Sounds like it's working well for you though. As long as the battery tolerates it, I see no problem. Just for fun, you might try comparing the voltage at the alternator output terminal, with the voltage at the battery positive post, with the car idling. Then turn on headlights and check again, it would be interesting to see if there's any difference.

Interesting insight. I probably only have a few thousand miles on this setup since my car rarely gets driven, so only relatively short term testing. I see your point about having a reference voltage taken from the battery. I used to use a circuit breaker in my main positive battery line, like many have used, and that thing was terrible so it went in the trash. Since my alternator now has a direct 0AWG line uninterrupted to the battery, I would expect there to be minimal, if any resistance/voltage drop between the alt and battery. I know it is common practice to take the excite wire from the stock (modified) LS engine harness and use it with a resistor to knock it down from a 12V to a 5V reference. From there, it has already gone through fuses, switched source (ignition switch), and multiple connections. Lots of areas for potential resistance.

You could be right that by having a higher operating voltage, I could be masking voltage drops. All of my electrical items have been operating fine, if not better, even if the electricity went through resistance to get to them 😆

Electronics / Re: Warm positive battery terminal
« on: December 24, 2020, 12:38:22 PM »
I checked out your build thread and noticed that you used the screw-in type battery terminals that are commonly used in audio setups when you relocated the battery. Are you still using those? If so, those are the exact type of terminals that were causing my issues! They simply don’t provide a good connection. Properly crimped or soldered lugs are the way to go.

Electronics / Re: Warm positive battery terminal
« on: December 23, 2020, 03:08:10 PM »
I was experiencing a very slow hot crank for a few years, which I had always blamed on higher resistance from starter heatsoak. Eventually I found a bad battery terminal connection which I had overlooked, and after properly repairing it, I have never had a slow crank again regardless of how hot the car/starter is. My car would turn over just fine when cold, but higher resistance in the circuit from heatsoak combined with the poor battery connection was enough to slow the starter. This was with long tube headers and a relocated Odyssey PC1200.

In my experience, LS alternators keep charging voltages at fairly low levels. As I recall in my previous setup, the F-body alternator/voltage regulator would maintain my charging voltage at 13.6V. I asked Odyssey’s tech department about this because I suspected I had a compromised PC1200. Their response was this:

“Most vehicles have a charging voltage of 14.0-15.0V with 14.2-14.4V at the higher RPMs. As a daily driver, this is acceptable. At less than 14.0V the charge recovery of the battery is very inefficient and not acceptable for ODYSSEY. There are alternators with adjustable voltage regulators and we would recommend setting those to 14.5-14.7V if possible. If not feasible, the use of the 25A ODYSSEY charger on a monthly to 6 week basis would be beneficial. Discharging it to something close to 12.2V (50% DOD) would force the charger to go through a full charging profile to push full current or even go into an automatic de-sulfation mode. High amp charging works as a de-sulfater for this product technology.”

After learning this, I switched my alternator and voltage regulator out for a DR44 with a self-exciting 14.7V regulator. After fixing a parasitic drain that I also found, my battery will now keep a charge of around 12.7V for weeks at a time untouched.

General Tech / Re: LS Swap Power Steering - The Everything Thread
« on: December 23, 2020, 02:20:21 PM »
Excellent job. Must feel great to have a clean PS setup!

Build Threads / Re: Fd lsx tt slow build
« on: December 20, 2020, 02:54:47 PM »
Awesome work.

What fan relays are you using?

I really like the heater lines that you made. I would like to do something similar because space is valuable in the area where they usually go and they are also an eyesore in the engine bay.

Parts for Sale / Re: Samberg V2 radiator
« on: December 19, 2020, 11:25:00 PM »
Bump. Still have this, now located in Olympia WA

Parts for Sale / Tres Vogt Wilwood FD BBK brackets
« on: December 18, 2020, 03:22:28 AM »
I have a brand new Wilwood BBK bracket and brake line set made by Tres Vogt for sale. The kit utilizes CX-9 rotors and Wilwood 120-11132 Calipers. What is included is in the photos.

Asking $285 shipped

Non Automotive Classifieds / Snap on tools!
« on: December 18, 2020, 03:05:01 AM »
I used to work professionally in the auto tech industry in a previous life, but I have decided to downgrade my tools since I only work on cars casually now. All of the listed items are used and show signs of use, but are in good functional condition and still maintain snap-on’s excellent quality and lifetime warranty.

10 piece flank drive metric combination wrench set 10mm-19mm. Retail $426, asking $215 sold

3/8 drive pneumatic impact wrench. Current version retail $499, asking $125 sold

1/2” drive SAE impact socket set 11pc. New in package. Retail $242, asking $125 sold

1/2” drive impact adapter set. 1/2 to 3/8 adapter, swivel, extension. Asking $70 sold

3/8” click type adjustable torque wrench 20-100ft/lb. Retail $342, asking $175

1/4” drive metric shallow and deep socket set. 12 pieces each with magnetic holder. Retail $530, asking $300 sold

1/4” ratchet, extension, SAE socket set. Retail $346, asking $140 sold

3/8” ratchet. Retail $119, asking $55

3/8” drive 12 piece 12 point shallow socket set. (Missing 14 mm). Retail $217, askijg $90 sold

3/8” drive extension set with swivel and 3/8 to 1/2” adapter. Asking $100

SAE L shaped hex ball end wrenches. Asking $20 sold

3 piece scraper set. Retail $138.50, asking $55 sold

Pry bar set. Retail $230, asking $100 sold

3 drawer box/cart. Located in Olympia WA for pickup only. Retail $1225, asking $750

Parts for Sale / Davies Craig electric water pump system
« on: December 18, 2020, 01:35:47 AM »
For sale is a Davies Craig water pump system with LCD controller for LS1. All items are brand new in box. The pump is the EWP150 which is appropriately sized for 8 cylinders and is suitable for street use or racing. The install kit is made specifically for LS motors. The alternator bracket kit is made for cars that will use the alternator ONLY on the drive belt system.




Asking $550 for the complete system

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