March 22, 2019, 08:19:14 PM

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Messages - digitalsolo

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1
Looking really good!

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Build Threads / Re: Feed Version V Build
« on: Today at 08:54:52 AM »
Very cool.   Interested in your hood solution, but it looks like it's going to be a heck of a ride!

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: Today at 08:44:44 AM »
Yep.  In this case, there is basically no load ever.    The PMU16 has pullup resistors (10k I believe) to 5V internally and the switches all just drag those to ground.   It's in the very low mA of power usage, so the switches should basically last forever, vs. stock where they were finicky at best (switching old halogens and such they were pulling 15-30 amps on the contacts).

I'm 20+ hours of working on this thing at night redoing the wiring, BUT, it's working!   I now (for the first time since I started on the car) have the following functions working:

Headlights (these worked before)
Front Turn Signals (these mostly worked before)
Brights (also worked before)
Tail Lights
Brake Lights
Rear Turn Signals
Power Windows (all 4 windows)
Power Door Locks (both doors, including fob and button)
Stereo (even mocked up a speaker and listened to "Moby - Flower")
EPAS (electronic power assist steering)

The ECU functions seem to be working properly as well.  Basically the PMU16 (solid state fuse/relay box) powers up with ignition signal, and turns on the stereo/EPAS/HVAC circuits as well as sends a signal to the ECU telling it to wake up.   The ECU then sends a control signal to the PMU telling it to turn on the ECU ignition switched inputs and the injectors/coils/etc (this is the way the AEM is designed to work for those curious).   The ECU also sends a +12V signal to prime the fuel pump (this doesn't go to the PMU16, it goes direct to relays/fuses at the pump to reduce loss/load).   This fuel pump signal is also run to the PMU16 to kick on the scavenge pump so that it primes (like the fuel pump) and then turns off until the car is running.   That way I can ignition/accessory on the car without running the scavenge pump constantly.

The PMU16 monitors amperage on all the circuits (both inrush, which is the initial spike on power up, and regular normal run amperage).  It can handle a big inrush current (120 amps or so) for a little less than second and then either 15 or 25 amps sustained once the inrush is over.   This is all configurable as virtual "fuses" which also self-reset themselves if they find an issue (the way they attempt to self reset, including how long it cycles for and how many times it tries, is configurable).  You can also put in a master reset to force it to retry any "blown" fuses, though I haven't bothered with that yet.

Since it monitors all of this data, and has CANbus (two channels in fact) it also sends the data out on CANbus.   I'm planning to add this as an input on my CANbus display adapter, which now uses RealDash on an Android/Windows/etc system to display the data.    So I'll have the ability to run a full virtual dash that even knows when the turn signals/headlights/brights are on, as well as how much amperage every circuit is drawing and the status of each circuit, all over 2 wire CANbus.

I'd really like to, at some point, perhaps build a custom LCD dashboard that replaces the analog gauges, if I can make it look "right" in the car.   Then I could get rid of the secondary senders on everything for the gauges, since I currently have 2x coolant temp sensors, 2x fuel pressure sensors, 2x oil pressure sensors, etc, one for gauge, one for ECU.   If I convert to digital and use the CANbus data, I can just use the ECU sensors for everything and simplify stuff, if I use the term "simplify" very loosely anyway.

I also moved the battery cable and all of the control cables for everything out from under the carpet and into the channel under the door sill plate that Ford put there for, I think, this exact purpose.    Not a big deal, but it's cleaner, slightly shorter, and stops it from screwing with the carpet fitment.

Anywho, now I need to get the kick panels sorted out (had to finish wiring in that area first) and installed, "glovebox" modified a bit to fit better (my custom piece I made hits the defroster vents, so I need to notch it around that and make a few other tweaks to make it fit better), install the rest of the glovebox, gauges and finalize center console wiring (it's about 90% done already).

That'll mostly finish the interior aside from HVAC piping, plugging in the HVAC harness (temporary until I convert that to digital controls/CANbus), and then the rear seat/interior panels which I need back from the upholstery shop.

In parallel to that I need to finish adjusting the front suspension (it's too low and hitting the tires on the fenders when I turn), fix the pinhole leak in my radiator, and fabricate my new breather setup (I'm excited about this one) and mount for the A/C drier so that I can pressure test/fill the A/C.

Then cut/buff hood and install it, the front bumper and the grills.

Then drive.   I might actually drive this thing around.   Imagine that.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: March 20, 2019, 07:26:47 AM »
Iím using all factory switches, just switching ground instead of voltage.    Looks OEM, works way better.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: March 20, 2019, 12:59:47 AM »
So the PMU 16 is pretty BAD ASS.    I'm waiting on my CAN cable to come in so I borrowed Nick's Kvaser unit from his ProEFI and got that working with it.    Everything is wired up now except a few connections for battery constant connections for the ECU, stereo, etc. as the PMU doesn't manage battery constant leads.   I'll put those in one of the dash fuseboxes, though I plan to put them all on breakers so I can reset them if/when needed.    Unfortunately that means I can't test the ECU/engine yet as I need battery to ECU to test ECU relay control to test those, etc.

Anywho, I tested headlights, brights, turn signals and a few other bits.   I need to wire up the rear lighting (have to re-run that wiring for the new setup) and finish the center console hazard switch/traction control switch stuff, then I can final test those.   Hopefully I'll get the battery stuff sorted tomorrow, and the rest by the end of the week.  At that point the car should be basically 100% electrically functional (well, minus HVAC, but that's a "soon-ish" task).

Oh, and I'm going to call the upholstery place this week and see if they have a seat ETA...

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I think the BOM guys goal is to do things in the way an OE would, but with less resources.   So while a piece of angle iron would work, the OE brackets are much more elegant, and they want elegance on it.    That's poor phrasing, but it gets the idea I think.

If I had the schedule availability, I'd probably do things just as crazy.   Then again, have you SEEN my electrical system?   It's Binky in a Mustang.

7
Build Threads / Re: Supe's NASCARX-7 (SB2.2 swap)
« on: March 18, 2019, 04:30:00 PM »
Looks good there in CAD.

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The Lounge / Re: Home Theater Upgrade
« on: March 18, 2019, 04:29:24 PM »
I don't think your new purchase would fit in my living room, haha.   Excited to see what it is, I'm a dedicated noob, but no better, with regard to audio stuff.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: March 18, 2019, 10:27:57 AM »
Pffdt, my wallet has the whiplash.   Well, it would if it wasn't lying in a pool of its own blood.

So, ECUMaster shipped FAST and this box is TINY.    Assuming I actually have a positive experience with this one (so far so good) I'm excited to use it.

I redid the under-glovebox mounting bracket that I had the Eaton boxes on before to fit the ECUMaster box, which is about 1/2 the size of the smaller Eaton piece.   That makes assembly a LOT easier, and let me cut down the mounting plate a bit so that the wires fit around it all a little nicer.

The front lighting assemblies are wired up, as are the horns.   I redid some of the connector layout to streamline things;  I had made things a bit overly complicated in the name of servicability, that I think actually made it worse not better.   So, instead I've consolidated into just a couple of main harnesses that everything else plugs into, as opposed to more disparate sub harnesses.

Next is wiring up ECU/gauge/etc. power into the unit, and the control wires.   I'm going to run the switch controls directly into the ECUMaster box instead of using my CAN control box, since it can do everything my box did (at least everything I need it to do), so why complicate/add failure points?    I'm also separating the CAN wiring into it's own harness with a dedicated connector type to limit noise/confusion in the future.    The ECUmaster needs a CAN programmer (that was 150 dollars.  Ugh) to run, so it'll have a CAN link on one channel to the AEM/HVAC/PDU network, and a dedicated programming link for managing it (this is what the vendor recommends).   Finally I have to redo the trunk wiring setup since before it was designed to have data only to the rear, and now the actual tail light/turn signal power goes that way.   Luckily I planned for this (mostly) so it's pretty easy to rewire.

I am going to design a new board for my CAN box that will run all of the HVAC system, run off the Android head unit touchscreen controls.   It will also be the CAN translator to display the ECU information (and now the PDU information) on the Android head unit as well.   So now it will only manage HVAC, but will be the CAN gateway for RealDash display.   The big thing now is that separating these means I can work on developing the new CAN controller for HVAC in tandem with driving the car, since it doesn't have to be there right now (I'll just have the analog HVAC controls hidden under the dash for now), so I can move the project forward.

I'm hoping to have version...  I don't know, 5 or 6 now, of the dash wiring done by this weekend.    Still waiting on my rear seat to come back from upholstery, once that's in, I can finish the rear of the car and I should just need a headliner and a few very small details to finish the interior and get this thing on the road.    Currently waiting for the engine to fail or something, LOL.

10
Build Threads / Re: UK RHD LS1 8.8 FD Gunnytron's build thread
« on: March 16, 2019, 08:19:13 PM »
Cool wheels!

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Build Threads / Re: 57 Buick Special GMT900 AWD Frame swap
« on: March 15, 2019, 11:29:43 AM »
Hey, all progress is good progress!

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: March 14, 2019, 01:55:47 PM »
Well, this just keeps going.

Seller for the Racepak Smartwire let me know that when he went to ship it, it looked like crap and he's not comfortable selling it.   That's very fair and I appreciate it, but come on, need some luck.

Just ordered an ECUMaster EMU16 instead.   A few less channels but I can make it work and it has some nicer usability/featureset vs. the Racepak (namely the CANbus isn't obfuscated like Racepak's "Vnet" which always annoys me).

Oy.

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Build Threads / Re: Drew's 1993 Rx7/JZ Build Thread
« on: March 14, 2019, 11:42:43 AM »
Thanks! I have a ton of pictures to post, trying to figure out sizes.

We have a gallery here if you wish, it'll autoresize them.

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Build Threads / Re: Blake's 1965 Mustang Project
« on: March 14, 2019, 11:37:33 AM »
Hah, thanks.   I think the Racepak setup will work well for me.   I downloaded their software and tested that I could build all of my functions in it.

Basically, it will run everything EXCEPT the power windows (because I need 4x dual h-bridges), battery power for power door locks, ECU, EPAS (power steering), gauges and stereo, fan (big relay up front for this), fuel pumps (have big ass relays in the back near the battery for those) and one relay that will run off of ignition to put the Racepak into "shutdown" mode to limit parasitic loss (it's 180ma of draw if I don't do this, and 1ma if I do, so pretty important).  Nice thing is it's a NC relay that opens with ignition, so if it pukes, I can yank that relay and it'll activate the Racepak, so that's good for reliability.     In the end I'll have 4 relays in the car:   fuel pump (2x), fan (1x) and Racepak power control (1x).     I'll have around 11 fuses:  EPAS, ECU battery, gauge battery, stereo battery, fuel pump (2x), power windows (4x) and power door lock control.   

I think this is a good setup, and I have a few more outputs available on the Racepak if need be.    I'll also be able to look at amp draw on various systems if I have issues, as well as autorecover from current spikes, etc.   I do have some more big ass fuses protecting the main battery feeds, with a 400A MEGA on the main lead near the battery, and a bunch of 250A MEGAs on the distribution under the dash, but those are just there to prevent burning the car down if the main battery cable shorts somewhere.

On an unrelated note, has anyone looked at Teves MK60 ABS units from E46 M3 BMWs?   I can put one of those in the car for like 750 dollars and I just need to machine some wheel speed sensors that I need to make for my traction control to work anyway.  That might be a fall 2019 project.   Mmm, ABS.    Only issue I see is fitting it on the car.   Maybe I'll mount it on the roof LOL.    Seriously though, it may have to be trunk mounted, engine bay and passenger cabin are very, very out of space.

15
Build Threads / Re: Drew's 1993 Rx7/JZ Build Thread
« on: March 14, 2019, 11:29:31 AM »
Good start!   Looking forward to seeing this one come together.   Interesting swaps are always nice.

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