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Topics - Cryptic

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Electronics / A lesson in grounds
« on: June 05, 2014, 11:37:56 AM »
So I was dealing with some really odd electrical gremlins. Last night, I learned what can happen if you pull the dash out and PO515 the interior and dynomat over the transmission tunnel. You effectively block grounds that are connected to the metal bar underneath the dash.

 -No Vent control
 -No Hot/Cold air control
 -Intermittent blower fan
 -Eventually lost dash lights, RPM guage and cigarette lighter
 -No blown fuses
 -No A/C Request (or light)

Nice thick coating of POR-15 over everything. Looks pretty, but man this screwed me. The metal dash support bar couldn't make good ground with the body of the car at the pillars and transmission tunnel. I also suspect the threading in the bolt holes were nicely coated with PO5-15, making the bolt itself not much help getting ground.

Adding to the problem, DynoMat covering the trans tunnel to make a nice thick barrier of "tar" at those 4 bolt connection.

The dash wiring harness has two ground points that goto the metal dash support bar. These are not even touched when you remove the dash, but the dash support bar still needs to ground to the car.

To troubleshoot what was going on I had to remove the dash wiring harness from the dash and put back in the car. Without it, you cannot test much. Maybe only the HVAC motors themselves, but you cant test for resistance through the circuit when you change temp controls from hot to cold for example.

This is the madness testing everything with all the harnesses, gauge cluster, and HVAC controls in place, but no dash.

Got really crazy electrical behaviors until I took those two ground pigtails and grounded them myself to a door bolt. Then EVERYTHING WORKED! I wire wheeled all the connection points to bare metal and I'm running another groundwire to that support bar. That-ought-do-it!

Careful with those grounds! 

The Lounge / every T-56 + 4.11 gears needs this
« on: April 18, 2012, 08:31:44 PM »

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Opinions on Varrstoen wheels?
« on: April 03, 2012, 05:19:11 PM »
Budget is getting tight... Not sure I want to spend $3-$4k on wheels right now.

I want to run 18x9.5 front and 18x11 rear, but it's really difficult to find the offset I am looking for
+24 front / +25 rear should get me where I want to be. I'm trying to get a 315 tire on the rear. (Burnout flares add ~+20-25 front and +20 to the rear)

There are a lot more options out there in the 18x10.5 wheel sizes. Varrstoen makes +22 wheels which would give me 9mm more inner clearance and 3mm more outer clearance so that would work out nicely.

I'm considering these wheels but still looking for other possibilities.

18x9.5 +22 18x10.5 +22

18x9.5 +22 18x10.5 +22

18x9.5 +22 18x10.5 +22

The Lounge / My buddy's shop
« on: March 21, 2012, 01:09:36 AM »
Just a couple pics from last week when I visited my buddy's shop to measure up my exhaust system.

So much win in one place.

Dragweek car, street driven, 26" wide wheels, even has a hitch

Fiberglass roof, carbon fiber tunnel and tubs, power lexan windows!

92mm turbo

Twin 88's I believe... For this mustang... my truck key looks so tiny!

other cars in the shop:

Ford Thunderbird drag car.

2.5" primaries

General Tech / Exhaust thoughts
« on: March 01, 2012, 01:27:00 AM »
I was orginally going to build a Y pipe to my Apexi N1 exhaust I already have, but it shrinks down to 2.5" inside the muffler. I'm hoping for about 550 to 600hp once I'm tuned, so I don't think the Y-pipe to Apexi N1 is going to cut it.

Based on motors usually need 2.2 CFM per HP and I'm hoping for 600HP, that means I need at least 1320 CFM.
Dual 3" would flow 1625 CFM so that should cover it.

So I thought I would do a dual 3" X-pipe like the  Kevin Doe exhaust that was sold to Lane (Mississippi FD). I asked Lane his impressions of the setup and he said "It's incredibly loud. Like open header loud moved to the back of the car."

So maybe one of these inplace of an traditional X-pipe to keep things a little more civil...
It's a muffler with a built in X-pipe, or resonated x-pipe...
PART#: 12599
Body Shape: 5in.x11in. Oval
Inlet/Outlet Size: 3in./3in.
Body Length: 22in.
Overall Length: 28in.
Core Size: Dual 3in.
Position: Dual/Dual

Features and Benefits: Straight-Through Wide-Open Performance, Reversible, Tru-X Perforated Core,

Only image I could find of Tru-X design (ignore not 3")

I think fitment should be OK. The Magnaflow x-pipe has similar dimensions.
Overall Length: 14in.Core Size: 3in.x5.75in.

Thoughts? Experiences?

The Lounge / my new truck!
« on: October 30, 2011, 12:37:09 AM »
Well new to me (19k on it)

2011 Ford F-250 Super Duty Lariat Crew Cab short box 4x4
6.7L DIESEL / Tuxedo Black Metallic / Black Leather / AC & Heated Seats

4.3" LCD driver information center

No Nav... Sync, Aux Switches

Sub behind the rear seat. Not bad for stock audio.

Was pulling 22mpg AVERAGE on the way back from dealer. That's only a 120% difference than my 98 2500 Silverado.

All the options and original sticker.

So much better than my old 98 Chevy 2500 Silverado 5.7L gasser. It struggled a little bit pulling my 24' trailer which will be hauling my RX7 around a lot next year. I wanted to be able to do it safely and reliably.

Drivetrain / slave cylinder woes
« on: October 15, 2011, 05:49:42 PM »
So I filled up all the fluids last week... My build is getting that close that I maybe able to start the car soon.

Bled the clutch with a remote bleeder line.  I noticed this morning I have a huge puddle of fluid under the T-56 coming from the hole below the slave. I gave the clutch pedal a couple more pumps and it's leaking some more.

Could I have blown the slave out with too much foot pedal pressure?  Is my only option now to drop the trans and replace?

*shoots self*

The Lounge / So I got this PM...
« on: September 30, 2011, 03:57:45 PM »
(No subject)
Sent to: Cryptic on: Today at 02:30:23 PM

Hi - Can you help me with the following question please.

Is there a Plug and Play wiring Harness for a 1993 RX-7 that will work for any engine that I may want to put in a 1993 RX-7?

Thank You.


I'm no expert when it comes to wiring. Maybe more lazy than ignorant and rather leave it to someone who already knows how. My time is worth more than what I paid to have my harness modified for me. But if you are serious, you should stop now. You're in way over your head. I wouldn't even suggest buying a modified car unless you have deep pockets and a service shop that does that kind of work.

Even a pre-modified harness is going to require you to think about what you are doing and it will still need modifications to fit your exact application. Too many variables.

I don't normally try to publicly humiliate anyone, but I'm really trying to save you from getting yourself into something you probably can't finish. The money and time good builds have invested, could have bought a new car with a warranty and drove right off lot, but that's not the point. The point is to have something unique, your own, and the learning process.  Are you ready to learn? Plug and play doesn't really exist. "Some assembly required, batteries not included" is more realistic.

Sorry to bust your balls.

Electronics / 1993 FD - Starter wiring with Clutch Cut-Out
« on: September 28, 2011, 01:23:32 AM »
I got these instructions from Pez over the phone and some text messages. I just want to be 100% positive this is correct before I start cutting wires.

First question is do I have the purple wire correct? Do I cut and separate the Black/Green Stripe wire or do I splice the Purple wire into it (like a "T").

2nd question is Pez tagged my harness with a "Splice" tag going to a relay in the driver footwell, Blue/White Stripe and Black/Blue Stripe. He explained to me over the phone, do this if I want to bypass the stock security system.  Do I have to? I don't fully understand the scope of what this disables or makes my life easier or not. Can anyone shed any more info on this?

I'll update this drawing once I know this is all correct. This might be handy for others in the future and certainly easier than explaining over the phone.

Electronics / Taurus fan pigtail / fan speed
« on: August 13, 2011, 12:37:38 PM »
Not sure which is High and Low speed. Seems like I have a different setup than most becuase I read this

brown w/ yellow = High speed
brown w/ orange = Low speed

But I have different colors :(

Black = Ground assummed
Brown = ???
Blue = ???

Electronics / extra weatherpack connector, where does it go?
« on: August 13, 2011, 12:17:39 PM »
I sent my front harness to Pez for modification.

There's this weatherpack coming off front harness at the passenger kick panel. Blue wire and a yellow w/ silver dash wire. I believe yellow/silver goes to the stock 15A relay box. Not sure where blue goes.
I have no mating weatherpack connector so where is this supposed to go? It's pretty short and wont much past the blower motor.

I texted Pez but he hasn't replied and I am really trying to button up the wiring this weekend.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Another shot, refering to plug on the right

Pez Performance / Heidts valve install
« on: January 19, 2011, 03:28:59 PM »
Just wanted to give a big thanks to Pez for helping me figure out a solution to my power steering (CTS-V pump, too much pressure and flow). He's responsible for mocking up the lines, figuring out the fittings needed, and finding good placement for it in the engine bay,

I documented this mod in my build thread.
Link to post

Build Threads / Cryptic's forged 427 LS3 Burnout FD
« on: June 23, 2010, 12:19:49 PM »
I've been lurking the old site and this one for a while now. I figured it's about time I post up my build which is now been dragging on for about 3 years. I started out with a 93 VR base FD which got me addicted to the RX7. I did full exhaust, PowerFC, new clutch, and some paint to it.

A little down the road, money got tight and I sold the car to my brother with the promise he wouldn't sell it. He had it for about 2 years till there was an accident in front of him which forced him into a wall on the freeway. The car was a loss. He then gave the car back to me, I had plans to use it as a parts car since the frame got pretty bent.

Here is after the motor was pulled (which survived the crash actually and I still have it). I'm scavenging the interior, wiring harness, brake master, ABS and whatever else I need from the car.

Rotary pulled

After much searching and patience I managed to locate a 95 roller chassis, which I drove down to pick-up from FL and bring back to WI. The car was completely stripped, but it was rust free, clean and straight. (not pictured, but the car did have fenders and front bumper)

At this point in the game I really didn't have any intentions on converting to a V8. I actually started to buy replacement items like a radiator and a cold air intake which was destroyed in the red FD (which I am still sitting on).  I decided since the car was so stripped down anyway that this would be a good time to POR-15 the underside, engine bay, fender wells, and even the interior floors.  I doubt this car will ever see rust now   :D

This was about Spring of 2008:
Before Por-15 (pics previously posted on the club)

Front right fender

Rear Fender


Dad spraying



General Tech / Opinions on power steering flow valves
« on: June 17, 2010, 04:55:20 PM »
I have the GMPP front drive accessory kit 19155066 also known as the CTS-V kit.

It includes power steering pump 21997867 which put out 2 GPM @ 1640/1740 PSI.
3rd gen RX-7, the stock PS rack is designed to run at 1100-1200psi.

So I was looking into rather inexpensive flow valves from KRCPower.com.

Much cheaper compared to plumbing in a Heidt's Adjustable Power Steering Valve). Or do these practically do the same thing?

Now I understand that these don't change the PSI running to the steering rack, just the flow. But would that be enough of a "fix" not to have to worry about some seal blowing up?

I'm also going to send KRC an email and see what they say.

Hinson Supercars / Hinson clutch line to slave cylinder
« on: June 05, 2010, 01:34:11 AM »
What am I missing here?  Male to Male don't mix.

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