I've long been unsatisfied with heat management in my FC and this winter the plan is to go max effort radiator ducting. From a aerodynamics/functional standpoint, by far the best solution is to duct the air through the radiator directly out of the hood. I'd really like to do a drop vent like the panspeed-type hood from Shine, but I suspect that drop vent probably just smacks the throttle body on a swapped car. Worst case I'll just cut a big ass hole in my hood, but I'd like that to be the last resort 

Has anyone tried it?

My FC has really hit the point of being a miserable experience to drive on the street other than in perfect weather. I'm trying to figure out what the most sensible thing to do is, and it seems like an aluminum 7x14 trailer would fit my FC (albeit tight) and be light enough that my Pathfinder should pull it pretty comfortably. I'm only looking at track days within about a ~2hr drive for now and the car should be fine to stand up to the elements.

It just seems to me that most people go with bigger trailers, so I'm mostly wondering if I'm missing something here about why I might need some extra space.

I think the title says it? The turnone pump with pulley stays on backorder

Also high pressure/high flow oil pump and water pump for Gen III, if you have new ones for some reason. 

So I've had some ongoing issues with overheating... in my last thread I figured out that the previous owner designed the cooling system incorrectly, and now I'm back for round two.

After fixing the cooling system, I still couldn't shake the notion that something was amiss because while getting the system refilled the car shot another wave of coolant onto the ground without warning. I rented a block tester from O'Peppy Zone and sure enough when the thermostat opens there is a blast of exhaust gas in the cooling system. So, that almost certainly means a failed head gasket, right?

I pulled the heads today and I don't see any clear evidence of failure. There is one scratch in one of the heads that's just barely deep enough to catch my thumbnail in, but other than that I don't see any cracks or gouges. There's no warpage of the block or heads that I can detect with a straight edge. There are no obvious marks or burns or anything in the gaskets themselves.

So - where do I go from here? Do I just clean the surfaces really good and re-assemble with new gaskets? I'm worried I'm missing something here.

I've had two people asking in the neighborhood of 2k for a used pull. Are they crazy? Am I crazy for thinking it should be $400 less? I'd really like to get a hold of an extra core so I can rebuild it myself, but at that price it seems like it's maybe worth it to just go to a magnum.

I noticed that the stock status on the website is "pre-order". Trying to plan the rotor/pads etc. orders around what I'm assuming is at least a week or two.

I found this thread while searching:
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=22307.msg289000#msg289000

My car is set up with an expansion tank connected to the water pump, radiator cap and puke tank.

Seemingly completely at random, I'll be driving around and I'll smell antifreeze, the temp needle has shot up substantially, and when I manage to get the car somewhere safe about a quart of coolant has been sprayed from the puke tank all over the engine bay.

So after rolling into my neighborhood with the motor off and a plume of smoke (well, steam) behind me, I started the car back up in my driveway; the fan is running fine, I top the coolant off, let it idle for quite awhile. Zero problems.

Am I missing something here? Did an air bubble just make it somewhere important? My puke tank is usually dry but I noticed it has a low/full line on it. Should it have some coolant in it at all times?