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Topics - jwvand02

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Interior/Exterior / Do any FC drop vent hoods work with swap?
« on: September 04, 2020, 12:48:34 PM »
I've long been unsatisfied with heat management in my FC and this winter the plan is to go max effort radiator ducting. From a aerodynamics/functional standpoint, by far the best solution is to duct the air through the radiator directly out of the hood. I'd really like to do a drop vent like the panspeed-type hood from Shine, but I suspect that drop vent probably just smacks the throttle body on a swapped car. Worst case I'll just cut a big ass hole in my hood, but I'd like that to be the last resort  :D

Has anyone tried it?

Looking for a little fabrication project to take on. Looking around, it looks like all matter of braces are available for the FC (ignoring front strut tower here, because I think that one is pretty well established) but most common seem to be front and rear subframe to frame rail braces and behind-the-fender wheel well braces. Are any of these actually worth anything?

I've also seen things like bolt-on frame rail stiffeners for miatas, frame rails cut open and thick steel tube dropped in, crap like that. It really seems like because the FC pre-dates the democratization of FEA and the like, there's not much data on where the chassis *actually* needs help, all we know is it's floppy as all hell.

What do you guys think?

Road Racing/Autocross / Is a 7x14 trailer big enough?
« on: March 02, 2020, 02:24:21 PM »
My FC has really hit the point of being a miserable experience to drive on the street other than in perfect weather. I'm trying to figure out what the most sensible thing to do is, and it seems like an aluminum 7x14 trailer would fit my FC (albeit tight) and be light enough that my Pathfinder should pull it pretty comfortably. I'm only looking at track days within about a ~2hr drive for now and the car should be fine to stand up to the elements.

It just seems to me that most people go with bigger trailers, so I'm mostly wondering if I'm missing something here about why I might need some extra space.

Interior/Exterior / Lightweight fire-safe carpet?
« on: February 23, 2020, 01:11:04 PM »
I've been googling to little avail - I'm trying to find something appropriate for "racecar" carpet.

I pulled the factory carpet out of my FC quite a while ago - it doesn't get hardly any street driving anymore and it was constantly in the way when I needed to work on wiring/seats/trans mounts etc. The problem is that one of the time trials classes my car belongs in requires carpet unless you have a full cage.

I was looking at some options and some of the drag racing guys who also have carpet required rules use this super light stretchy carpet. The only problem with that in my mind is that it's 100% polypropylene, which from what I can tell is insanely flammable. I'm a huge fan of not being on fire so I'm really hesitant to go with something like that. I've come across some fire-proof coatings but they're mostly intended for indoors use as far as I can tell.

My guess is that someone has to have solved this problem before, hoping that one of the many experienced guys around here might know!

Parts WTB / WTB: FC Fortune 510, Turnone Pump w/pulley + lines
« on: October 05, 2019, 11:26:18 AM »
I think the title says it? The turnone pump with pulley stays on backorder

Also high pressure/high flow oil pump and water pump for Gen III, if you have new ones for some reason. 

Electronics / Why would disconnecting the ignition drain my battery?
« on: September 13, 2018, 01:49:20 PM »
Hi all,

I'm currently working on a steering project in my FC and have the entire column disconnected and pulled, including the ignition. My battery is draining at a rapid rate, I initially measured 10A across both the retractor and head circuits in the under hood fusebox.

I pulled those fuses so it's not really a big deal to solve, but it seems extremely likely to me that for some reason having the ignition disconnected has caused both of these dash switches (which have a tie in with the ignition state) to cause a short to ground. For my own curiosity, could anyone explain to me why that is?

Drivetrain / Head Gasket Failure
« on: June 12, 2018, 04:53:46 PM »
So I've had some ongoing issues with overheating... in my last thread I figured out that the previous owner designed the cooling system incorrectly, and now I'm back for round two.

After fixing the cooling system, I still couldn't shake the notion that something was amiss because while getting the system refilled the car shot another wave of coolant onto the ground without warning. I rented a block tester from O'Peppy Zone and sure enough when the thermostat opens there is a blast of exhaust gas in the cooling system. So, that almost certainly means a failed head gasket, right?

I pulled the heads today and I don't see any clear evidence of failure. There is one scratch in one of the heads that's just barely deep enough to catch my thumbnail in, but other than that I don't see any cracks or gouges. There's no warpage of the block or heads that I can detect with a straight edge. There are no obvious marks or burns or anything in the gaskets themselves.

So - where do I go from here? Do I just clean the surfaces really good and re-assemble with new gaskets? I'm worried I'm missing something here.

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Rear Toe adjustment bolts
« on: May 30, 2018, 03:43:25 PM »
Took the FC in for an alignment today - on the passenger side as the tech turned the adjustment bolt in the LCA toward the front of the car to adjust toe, it would spin but the cam was not moving and toe wasn't changing. I went to check the parts catalog - it looks like the adjustment bolt is still available, but the cam plate that faces the center of the car is not. Will replacing just the bolt (part number FB0128470A) solve my issue, or am I stuck unless I can also find the cam plate?

Drivetrain / What are T56s going for around you these days?
« on: May 10, 2018, 09:53:53 AM »
I've had two people asking in the neighborhood of 2k for a used pull. Are they crazy? Am I crazy for thinking it should be $400 less? I'd really like to get a hold of an extra core so I can rebuild it myself, but at that price it seems like it's maybe worth it to just go to a magnum.

Drivetrain / What are my considerations if I change mount kit?
« on: April 25, 2018, 07:21:42 PM »
I bought an FC that was already mostly done and as I've been working on getting it to where I want it, I'm becoming more and more tempted to replace almost everything but the wiring. It's under major surgery right now to make it a serviceable track car and it's been a really intimate thing to the point where I feel like I actually could have just pulled the motor at this point with less effort.

ANYWHO, the front subframe and Granny's cradle has been chopped up here and there to clearance stuff and I'm really thinking about replacing the whole thing with a new junked front subframe and a Ronin kit. From the best I can tell, the only thing I might have to do is have the driveshaft lengthened/shortened (or worse case a new one built). For all I know it might go back together perfectly.

Is this as easy as I think it is? 

Ronin Speedworks / What's the rough lead time on FC Mandeville Brakes?
« on: February 24, 2018, 12:10:25 PM »
I noticed that the stock status on the website is "pre-order". Trying to plan the rotor/pads etc. orders around what I'm assuming is at least a week or two.

Drivetrain / Going from LS1 to 6.0/LS3 heads
« on: January 17, 2018, 02:04:48 PM »
This is maybe a stupid question, but I can't find any explicit confirmation and I'm trying to be less.... erm... impulsive

There's an engine builder nearby liquidating tons of LS parts, and he's offering a 6.0 short block, LS3 heads and a BTR cam for somewhere in the neighborhood of 1250. Seeing as this is about as much money as I was going to pay to have my heads worked over for even more power, it seems like a pretty damn solid deal.

The question is this - given that I have all of the accessories and PCM from a Gen III Camaro - should just about everything swap over? It seems like it should, even the ECU sounds like it can be tuned easily to deal with this motor. The only thing I'm fairly certain I will need new is push rods, am I missing anything?

Drivetrain / my car has a fetish for spraying coolant at random
« on: December 01, 2017, 02:03:44 PM »
I found this thread while searching:

My car is set up with an expansion tank connected to the water pump, radiator cap and puke tank.

Seemingly completely at random, I'll be driving around and I'll smell antifreeze, the temp needle has shot up substantially, and when I manage to get the car somewhere safe about a quart of coolant has been sprayed from the puke tank all over the engine bay.

So after rolling into my neighborhood with the motor off and a plume of smoke (well, steam) behind me, I started the car back up in my driveway; the fan is running fine, I top the coolant off, let it idle for quite awhile. Zero problems.

Am I missing something here? Did an air bubble just make it somewhere important? My puke tank is usually dry but I noticed it has a low/full line on it. Should it have some coolant in it at all times?

I need to have this transmission rebuilt, I'm probably going to send it off to Tick Performance. One question - in order to get it out of the car (FC Vert) is it faster to drop from the bottom or just pull the whole motor and transmission together?

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