Little bit of history so you know how this came to be. Around November I bought a 1993 RX-7 that had already been swapped to a Gen III 4.8 TT build. Im not a straight line guy so I wanted to put in an NA motor instead. I opted to build a LS3 for the car instead.

So, with that being said, I decided to not rip out the already modified Gen III harness in the car and opt for doing the conversion instead.

I got the following
Boosted Solutions 24" MAP sensor adapter
Lingenfelter TRG-002 Crank Adapter
Speartech Knock Sensor Adapters
Speartech Injector Adapters

I am getting to the point where the engine is almost done and ready to fire so I decided to get all of the sensors hooked up. I threaded the TRG through the firewall and started to align everything annnnnnd, they dont all connect. I looked up the wire color codes for the connectors and it just seems off

I have 3 3-wire connectors




From what I see on the wiring diagram, these should be the colors for the connectors.

Crank - BLU/WHT - YLW/BLK - LT GRN
Cam - PNK/BLK - BRN/WHT - RED
MAP - GRY - LT GRN - ORN/BLK

The one I think Im having issues with is the Cam sensor as I 'think' its the one with the red wire pictured but it wont plug into the CAM OUT cable on the TRG. The Crank and MAP seem to have the same keys and I can plug those in fine so I am pretty sure I have those identified. What I cant tell is if it is an issue with the Lingenfelter or the engine harness. They key for the one with the RED wire looks to be correct but its not lining up with the supposedly correct plug on the Lingenfelter box.

I am trying to figure out where I can possibly pull the horn wire from. I hooked up an aftermarket steering wheel and, when I went to get the green/red wire from the connector under the dash, the wire was missing from it and I could not find where it went to. This leads me to two questions.

- Where does the wire for the horn originate from in the cabin? Is it the fuse box in the kick panel?
- Does the power for the horn come directly from the horn relay in the engine bay?

I am thinking of doing a rewire of the horn from the fuse box to the steering wheel and then from the bay relay to the horn itself. This seems like the easier option rather than trying to hunt down old wires?

My car already came swapped for a LSX with a Magnum trasmission. The shifter arm has an offset with a 2nd bolt on it but the offset piece hits the stock shifter trim in the 1/3/5/R gears causing it to pop up. Is there a solution for this besides the Sikky extension that costs $500?

What is everyone doing for power steering pumps these days? In my old build I had a KRC unit with outlet valves that you could swap out to reduce the assist from the pump.

Also, any recommendations on lines to use for a line cooler? Im in AZ so the track can get pretty hot and I dont want to have the fluid boil over (happened in my IS300).

Ok, I know this is a complete longshot but, f it, you wont know if you dont try.

I bought the 911 a little while ago and found that I hardly ever drive it. Im not much of a cars and coffee guy and have been using my daily driver as the track toy instead. I have been thinking about getting back into an LSX-FD for a track car so this might be what pushes me over.

Car value - $51,000 as is or $45,000 if returned to stock. I am estimating the parts as what they would sell for on the market in used condition. The price of the car is reflective of current asking prices on Autotrader for a car of similar condition, history, and mileage that has been negotiated down. This would be a trade plus cash to balance values of the car.

Specs on the car
2001 Porsche 911 Turbo
Mileage: 41,100
Transmission: 6 speed
Images can be found here: https://www.instagram.com/narcissistic_996tt/



Modifications:

Suspension:
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers (custom valved by FVD)
Tarett Engineering end links
Torque Solutions rear toe arms

Engine/Power:
RPi turbo-back exhaust
COBB Accessport

Body/Wheels:
Joe Toth two piece front splitter (blade can be taken off for better clearance)
Strosek rear wing
EVOms intercooler duct splitters
SSR GT3 wheels (19x8.5 f, 19x11.5 r) w. Toyo Proxes TR1 tires (fronts brand new, rears are good but near end)

Electronics:
Built in K40 radar detector and remote
Built in trickle charger
iPhone/iPad lightening cable radio interface (aux through system)

Notes:
- Interior is in great shape. No tears or scuffs. Leather is in good condition with only light wear on the driver bolster
- Exterior is near flawless. Two blemishes. One is common with a small scratch from the rear wiper and there is a pinhole paint chip on driver fender. The passenger fender has had a little paint work to clean it up but the car has a clean accident history on all reports.
- PPI done on the car a little over a year ago but can have it done again at buyer's request (buyer pays for)
- The car has been maintained with nothing lacking since I have gotten it. I have replaced the check valves, coolant overflow tank, throttle body gasket, and did a full boost leak check. Oil change recently done in July of this year.
- Car can be sold/traded 'as is' or returned back to stock (have all stock pieces saved and they will come with the car either way)


What I am looking for:
3rd Generation RX-7 with LSX swap (aluminium block only) and a manual transmission with decent paint, no rust, no major blemishes (no major accident history), and a clean title.
I am willing to add value to the 7 based on the amount of track-ready parts that it comes with.
- High end coilover suspension (Zeal, Ohlins etc)
- Full bushing set done recently
- Half or full cage
- Aftermarket racing seats (with still active FIA certs)
- BBK
- Newer LS engine (2, 3 or 7)
- Some aero bits but only if track functional

If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask. I try to be as open and honest as possible. For my credibility/history, you can see my account (same username) on rx7club.com

Cheers,
Mav