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Forum Services / Sent PM's not showing?
« on: January 16, 2020, 02:25:17 PM »
Anyone have this issue? I have all my PM's in my inbox, but when I click on "sent" it shows empty, so I can't even remember what I'm sending people.
April 23, 2024, 11:46:44 PM
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General Tech / Throttle Cable ideas?
« on: May 27, 2019, 02:04:46 PM »
I've searched countless threads and see people say that I can use the stock FD throttle cable, but it's too short by an inch even when maxed out. It worked fine on my LS1, but now that I'm swapping an LS3 in I noticed that it doesn't quite workout. I'm willing to snag a Lokar cable if needed or anything for that matter that will work.
If you look at the picture, I can put the cable on the nut and it fits, granted the throttle body is cracked open with it setup like this (essentially cable is too tight).
Every thread says use the stock one or get F-Body. I just want to make sure that whatever I buy fits since this stock FD one isn't going to work. Also, is there an issue with my bracket or the TB I'm using? If you look at the pictures the cable has to come in at an angle.
If you look at the picture, I can put the cable on the nut and it fits, granted the throttle body is cracked open with it setup like this (essentially cable is too tight).
Every thread says use the stock one or get F-Body. I just want to make sure that whatever I buy fits since this stock FD one isn't going to work. Also, is there an issue with my bracket or the TB I'm using? If you look at the pictures the cable has to come in at an angle.
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General Tech / LS3 Cable Driven Throttle Body Question
« on: February 05, 2019, 04:02:54 PM »
I had an LS1, swapping in an LS3, so I'm using LS1 PCM and stuff. Anyways here's where I'm at...I got a Chinese cable driven TB and a bracket (bracket instructions say it's compatible with Lokar cables), but my cable I was using on the LS1 seems to be too short. There's a shorter setting that I can put the ferrule, but it doesn't go in all the way and leaves the cable bent...can I just buy a Lokar cable and call it good?
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Parts for Sale / FS-Fast 92MM Intake Manifold & PTM 92MM Throttle Body
« on: July 09, 2018, 04:40:34 PM »
Going LS3, so I'm parting out my LS1. Selling this Wilson 92MM Intake Manifold with a PTM 92MM throttle body. Everything works and is in good condition. I quickly wiped it down to take pictures, but will clean it up better before someone buys.
The MAP sensor has a coat of RTV and some zip ties holding it in place better. If you Google, you'll see that a loose MAP sensor is normal for these intake manifolds. People have come up with creative ideas to address this.
I may be willing to split these. Located in Sacramento.Willing to ship. If you want any more pictures please let me know.
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/fast-wilson-92mm-intake/6638829229.html
All of my pictures are too large, so here's the CL link.
Sacramento, CA. Willing to ship.
$900
The MAP sensor has a coat of RTV and some zip ties holding it in place better. If you Google, you'll see that a loose MAP sensor is normal for these intake manifolds. People have come up with creative ideas to address this.
I may be willing to split these. Located in Sacramento.Willing to ship. If you want any more pictures please let me know.
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/d/fast-wilson-92mm-intake/6638829229.html
All of my pictures are too large, so here's the CL link.
Sacramento, CA. Willing to ship.
$900
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Electronics / LS1 to LS3 Swap Questions
« on: July 06, 2018, 05:15:14 PM »
Spun a rod bearing in my LS1 (completely my fault), so I'm going LS3. Right now the LS3 is in the shop for a full rebuild and they said that they will take care of the reluctor wheel (54x to 24x). They highly recommended running LS2/3 knock sensors, since tapping for the LS1 knock sensors for the side of the LS3 block put them way too close (maybe even touching) my longtubes.
Has anyone had any luck with the Racetronix LS2/3 knock sensor adapters?
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/racetronix-ls1-to-ls2-knock-sensor-retrofit-harness/
I already have all the adapters to make the LS3 injectors work with the LS1 wiring.
Other than this all I need is the Casper CEI-109081 adapter to extend my cam sensor to the timing cover and it's smooth sailing right?
Has anyone had any luck with the Racetronix LS2/3 knock sensor adapters?
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/racetronix-ls1-to-ls2-knock-sensor-retrofit-harness/
I already have all the adapters to make the LS3 injectors work with the LS1 wiring.
Other than this all I need is the Casper CEI-109081 adapter to extend my cam sensor to the timing cover and it's smooth sailing right?
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Parts for Sale / Enkei RPF01 17x9 +45, 17x9.5 +38 With RT-615K
« on: April 03, 2018, 06:21:50 PM »
Wheels:
Got 18's, so I'm selling these:
Enkei RPF01 17x9 +45, 17x9.5 +38
All of the wheels are in good condition with no curb rash, but one of the 17x9.5 wheels has damage (pictured) from the previous owner. The wheel still balances fine and feels smooth on the highway and all speeds.
Tires:
Falken RT-615K 255/40/17, 275/40/17 with less than 1,000 miles on them
Asking $1,000
Here's how they fit:
https://instagram.com/p/BLFaA7CAPaf/?utm_source=ig_embed
More pictures in CL ad:
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/wto/d/fs-enkei-rpf01-17xx95-38-with/6545316829.html
Got 18's, so I'm selling these:
Enkei RPF01 17x9 +45, 17x9.5 +38
All of the wheels are in good condition with no curb rash, but one of the 17x9.5 wheels has damage (pictured) from the previous owner. The wheel still balances fine and feels smooth on the highway and all speeds.
Tires:
Falken RT-615K 255/40/17, 275/40/17 with less than 1,000 miles on them
Asking $1,000
Here's how they fit:
https://instagram.com/p/BLFaA7CAPaf/?utm_source=ig_embed
More pictures in CL ad:
https://sacramento.craigslist.org/wto/d/fs-enkei-rpf01-17xx95-38-with/6545316829.html
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Electronics / LS1 to LS2 or LS3?
« on: March 19, 2018, 06:11:14 PM »
I spun a rod in my LS1 and am running various scenarios for what to do at this point.
The cheapest option is to have my shop do a bottom end rebuild (hone, re ring, new bearings, turn crank, ARP hardware, etc). He said Approx. $3k for parts, machine work, and labor.
Other options I'm considering are just going to an LS2 or LS3.
I've got the PEZ harness, would I have to essentially get an entire new harness to switch?
The cheapest option is to have my shop do a bottom end rebuild (hone, re ring, new bearings, turn crank, ARP hardware, etc). He said Approx. $3k for parts, machine work, and labor.
Other options I'm considering are just going to an LS2 or LS3.
I've got the PEZ harness, would I have to essentially get an entire new harness to switch?
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Parts for Sale / FS-Ohlins PCV Coilovers FD
« on: June 08, 2016, 09:04:57 PM »
Upgraded my coilovers on my FD, so these are for sale. They're Ohlins PCV struts with lowering springs. Not sure on the mileage, as they came with the car when I bought it. One rear strut is leaking, the other 3 have zero issues. All four feel solid and ride better than cheap coilovers like Megan. I haven't cleaned them up, so you can inspect them properly.
Only trades I'd be interested in are:
Rear cargo cover
Braided steel brake lines
Alex Rodriguez ABS delete
99 Spec Taillights or LED taillights
Shine CF side skirts
Shine Front Fenders
Located in Sacramento, CA
Asking $500
Only trades I'd be interested in are:
Rear cargo cover
Braided steel brake lines
Alex Rodriguez ABS delete
99 Spec Taillights or LED taillights
Shine CF side skirts
Shine Front Fenders
Located in Sacramento, CA
Asking $500
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Cars for sale / FS-Chaste White 1994 Ls1/T56 FD - Samberg
« on: June 05, 2016, 12:14:18 AM »
Thinking of getting a larger house, so I’m selling my “toys”.
1994 Mazda Rx-7
PRICE
$30,000
LOCATION
Sacramento, CA
CHASSIS
86,xxx miles
Original Chaste White, but was resprayed including door jams by previous owner. Paint job looks AMAZING.
Clean black interior with cloth seats and pioneer deck with USB hookups
LRB Speed aluminum defrost vent
“NO ROTORS” custom floor mats
SWAP PARTS
Samberg radiator with carbon fiver K&N filter
Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft
PES plug and play engine/transmission harness
JTR 1 3/4 ceramic coated with v-band headers into custom x-pipe to a single 18” Magnaflow
Samberg subframe
Samberg transmission mount and differential mount
Samberg bump steer kit (brand new)
Samberg AST
Samberg throttle cable and bracket
Samberg power steering adapter kit
Corvette engine mounts
Wilwood master cylinder and clutch line kit
Tick remote bleeder
ENGINE
2002 LS1/LS6 block with piston squirters, 60k on complete short block, 5k miles on hone, re-ring, and bearing
2006 799 LS2/LS6 cylinder heads with Brian Tooley titanium valve springs and retainers, Texas Speed cam 235/40 duration, 635/609 lift, 111 LSP, TSP chromoly pushrods, Fast 92 with 92mm PFM throttle body, LS7 lifters, F-Body accessory drive pulleys with power steering, ported SLP oil pump, F-Body oil pan with Improved Racing oil pan baffle
Mike Norris PCV catch can
DEI heat sleeves for the spark plugs
TRANSMISSION
2002 F-Body T56 with 60k miles in great working condition-was just completely re-sealed, short shifter (not sure the brand), Hurst leather shift knob, Monster stage 3 6 puck spring clutch, billet aluminum flywheel, and new GM hydraulics
FUEL SYSTEM
Walboro 255 fuel pump, Corvette fuel filter with pump return, 18 gauge wire standalone fuel pump harness and relay
SUSPENSION
Super-Pro bushings throughout (except the differential-still have the bushing)
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers (brand new)
WHEELS
Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x9 front, 17x9.5 rear
Falken RT-615K tires (new) 255/40/17 front, 275/40/17
Muteki black lug nuts
The car is ridiculously reliable. I drove it 14 hours home from Portland when I bought it. It gets about 24mpg on the highway cruising at 70mph+. The car could use a tune because it definitely feels like there’s a lot more power that can be had. I was talking to my mechanic and he agreed. The car won’t idle on its own sometimes (again could use a better tune), but tapping the throttle will help it if it tries to die. Other than that the only issue I can think of is that the speedo stopped working. I haven’t bothered looking into it just yet.
Clean and clear title in my name. Registration is current.
1994 Mazda Rx-7
PRICE
$30,000
LOCATION
Sacramento, CA
CHASSIS
86,xxx miles
Original Chaste White, but was resprayed including door jams by previous owner. Paint job looks AMAZING.
Clean black interior with cloth seats and pioneer deck with USB hookups
LRB Speed aluminum defrost vent
“NO ROTORS” custom floor mats
SWAP PARTS
Samberg radiator with carbon fiver K&N filter
Driveshaft shop aluminum driveshaft
PES plug and play engine/transmission harness
JTR 1 3/4 ceramic coated with v-band headers into custom x-pipe to a single 18” Magnaflow
Samberg subframe
Samberg transmission mount and differential mount
Samberg bump steer kit (brand new)
Samberg AST
Samberg throttle cable and bracket
Samberg power steering adapter kit
Corvette engine mounts
Wilwood master cylinder and clutch line kit
Tick remote bleeder
ENGINE
2002 LS1/LS6 block with piston squirters, 60k on complete short block, 5k miles on hone, re-ring, and bearing
2006 799 LS2/LS6 cylinder heads with Brian Tooley titanium valve springs and retainers, Texas Speed cam 235/40 duration, 635/609 lift, 111 LSP, TSP chromoly pushrods, Fast 92 with 92mm PFM throttle body, LS7 lifters, F-Body accessory drive pulleys with power steering, ported SLP oil pump, F-Body oil pan with Improved Racing oil pan baffle
Mike Norris PCV catch can
DEI heat sleeves for the spark plugs
TRANSMISSION
2002 F-Body T56 with 60k miles in great working condition-was just completely re-sealed, short shifter (not sure the brand), Hurst leather shift knob, Monster stage 3 6 puck spring clutch, billet aluminum flywheel, and new GM hydraulics
FUEL SYSTEM
Walboro 255 fuel pump, Corvette fuel filter with pump return, 18 gauge wire standalone fuel pump harness and relay
SUSPENSION
Super-Pro bushings throughout (except the differential-still have the bushing)
Fortune Auto 500 coilovers (brand new)
WHEELS
Enkei RPF1 wheels 17x9 front, 17x9.5 rear
Falken RT-615K tires (new) 255/40/17 front, 275/40/17
Muteki black lug nuts
The car is ridiculously reliable. I drove it 14 hours home from Portland when I bought it. It gets about 24mpg on the highway cruising at 70mph+. The car could use a tune because it definitely feels like there’s a lot more power that can be had. I was talking to my mechanic and he agreed. The car won’t idle on its own sometimes (again could use a better tune), but tapping the throttle will help it if it tries to die. Other than that the only issue I can think of is that the speedo stopped working. I haven’t bothered looking into it just yet.
Clean and clear title in my name. Registration is current.
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Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Steering is heavy?
« on: April 04, 2016, 04:36:34 PM »
I bought a swapped FD awhile back and just assumed that the steering was heavier than stock on all swapped FD's. I just drove my buddy's swapped FD that has pretty much all the same parts, but his steering is much lighter and similar to a stock FD's. Am I missing something? We both have P/S, 2002 LS1, Samberg Swap kits, etc. Mines that bad, but I do like how light his feels. Any ideas? He has the Turn One restrictor...not sure if my car has a type of restrictor, but if I didn't my steering would be way too sensitive right?
Just trying to iron out all of the small details before I abuse the hell out of my car on the circuit.
Just trying to iron out all of the small details before I abuse the hell out of my car on the circuit.
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Drivetrain / ReSeal tail section of a T56 while on car?
« on: December 29, 2015, 01:49:58 AM »
I'm slowly going through my 94 getting all the leaks taken care of because I absolutely can't stand leaks. One of the leaks that's been bothering me is the tail shaft of the T56. I notice some fluid leaking from where the rear section of the T56 mates to the rest of the transmission. It's just enough to create a small puddle after a week of sitting in the garage. Can I remove the driveshaft and then just unbolt this section while it's still on the car or do I have to drop the transmission?
Picture of the seam it's leaking at:
Picture of the seam it's leaking at:
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Drivetrain / Clutch Pedal Issues
« on: December 18, 2015, 12:55:29 AM »
Anyone ever have clutch pedal issues?
Drove the car 10 hours home from where I bought it without issues. Once I started driving it more later on I would notice that the clutch would lose pressure and that I'd have to floor the pedal to get the clutch to disengage. Noticed the fluid was black, so I fully drained it, removed the reservoir (Wilwood master) and cleaned it out, reinstalled, and put fresh ATE DOT 4 fluid in it, and bled it properly. I also noticed that the master cylinder would move a little, so I tightened it up and now it doesn't move. I'm still having this pedal issue though. The pedal has a TON of play, but if I pump it it will gain pressure. Any ideas?
I bled it by using a mighty vac to suck fluid through until I felt there wasn't much air. After that I did the one man bleeding by filling a mason jar with a little fresh brake fluid, submerging a vacuum hose in it and hooking the other end to the bleeder valve on the Wilwood master. Then I pumped the clutch pedal slowly about 30 times overall until I felt that there couldn't possibly be any air left in the line.
Also the clutch line is braided steel with a heat shield sleeve on it and I've got it routed to be as far away from the ceramic coated headers as possible.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz0EIhByY8Y&feature=youtu.be
Drove the car 10 hours home from where I bought it without issues. Once I started driving it more later on I would notice that the clutch would lose pressure and that I'd have to floor the pedal to get the clutch to disengage. Noticed the fluid was black, so I fully drained it, removed the reservoir (Wilwood master) and cleaned it out, reinstalled, and put fresh ATE DOT 4 fluid in it, and bled it properly. I also noticed that the master cylinder would move a little, so I tightened it up and now it doesn't move. I'm still having this pedal issue though. The pedal has a TON of play, but if I pump it it will gain pressure. Any ideas?
I bled it by using a mighty vac to suck fluid through until I felt there wasn't much air. After that I did the one man bleeding by filling a mason jar with a little fresh brake fluid, submerging a vacuum hose in it and hooking the other end to the bleeder valve on the Wilwood master. Then I pumped the clutch pedal slowly about 30 times overall until I felt that there couldn't possibly be any air left in the line.
Also the clutch line is braided steel with a heat shield sleeve on it and I've got it routed to be as far away from the ceramic coated headers as possible.
Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qz0EIhByY8Y&feature=youtu.be
13
Drivetrain / Anyone have issues when they bought a new dipstick?
« on: December 07, 2015, 12:02:05 AM »
Hey guys I bought a new dipstick since the rubber portion of my current one fell apart. I used the same part number and year/model (I told the parts guy 2002 Camaro). The part numbers match between both dipsticks. The number is stamped on the bottom half of the dipstick for both and is the same length. The new dipstick is longer on the top half. Anyone run into this issue? What it looks like I have to do is drill out the rivets, cut the top half to length, and re-rivet it together. I'd prefer to just buy one ready to go and sell the one I have, so anyone have any idea?
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Interior/Exterior / Hood won't sit flush
« on: December 06, 2015, 11:52:25 PM »
Hey guys has anyone had issues with the hood closing? I've got a Fast 92mm intake manifold and TB. Just curious how much people grind down the throttle body. I'm going to attempt to grind down on it some with my Dremel. Looking for input on how much people have ground down theirs.
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