I purchased what I thought was a good digital Torque/Angle wrench a while back.
It had some useful features, great reviews on and off Amazon at the time, and came with a calibration certificate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GOUNZ10/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It took a little getting used to the setup procedure, but it worked well, at first.
I took very good care of it, as I would any precision instrument, and I probably accumulated a couple hours of use, when I noticed it turning off at random times.
It started happening when it was bumped, as in being laid on a table or installing a socket, or even when placing on a bolt head.
Then it cut cut off when torquing a bolt, resulting in no indication when the set torque was reached. I had to replace a few expensive ARP fasteners due to that little fuckup, as I had no idea how severely they were stressed.

It progressed to happening every time I tried to use it, and it's now a very expensive club. I'll keep it for next time I go seal hunting.

When I looked at Amazon reviews, and elsewhere as well, it seems that there are now huge numbers of people having this exact same problem.
I called A/C Delco tools to see if they could repair it, even if I had to pay.
Nope, they don't repair any of their tools.  They did offer up the suggestion to buy a new one at retail price. 
I did take out the board, and retouched all the joints to eliminate a possible cold solder joint, but the problem persists.

I started researching other brands, to see if I could find a good quality replacement.
I thought the GearWrench model looked promising. It has similar features, and seemed to be well reviewed, at first.

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-120XP-Electronic-Torque-Wrench/dp/B07TFHW17F/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2IFUFTLN0HLNZ&keywords=gearwrench%2B120xp%2Bflex%2Bhead%2B1%2F2%2Bdigital%2Btorque%2Bwrench&qid=1693471677&s=hi&sprefix=gearwrench%2B120xp%2Bflex%2Bhead%2B1%2F2%2Bdigital%2Btorque%2Bwrench%2Ctools%2C147&sr=1-4&th=1

After digging a bit deeper, this one also has a number of bad reviews, mainly the same exact problem.
My first thought was it had the same board, but the buttons are in different locations, so it's not identical.

Now I'm looking at the Snap-On TechAngle series, but I really don't want to spend $700+ as a hobby mechanic.

https://shop.snapon.com/product/TechAngle-Models-(2%-Accuracy)/1-2%22-Drive-Flex-Head-TechAngle-Torque-Wrench-(12.5%E2%80%93250-ft-lb)/ATECH3FR250B

https://shop.snapon.com/product/TechAngle-Models-(2%-Accuracy)/1-2%22-Drive-Flex-Head-TechAngle-Torque-Wrench-(15%E2%80%93300-ft-lb)/ATECH3F300RB

Anyone here have experience with a good quality digital torque/angle wrench that they could recommend?
I don't mind spending a bit for a quality tool, but $700+ for something I use a few times a year just seems excessive.

Thanks guys.

Here's a thread from an RV forum that I belong to.
This coach, worth probably $200k or more, was totaled out because of a chassis MPX system that nobody can fix or replace. 

If anyone here is up to a challenge, (Blake, I'm thinking of you  ), one could possibly have a VERY nice high-end coach for drastically less than book value.  I hate to think of it being parted out and scrapped.

Now this is a BIG challenge, as these things are notoriously complex, and much of the wiring is buried and difficult to access, but I also know there is some serious technical talent on this board.  It'd certainly be interesting to see someone get this thing back on the road.

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/5849-09-sig-kongsburg-ccm-lightning-damage-not-repairable/#comments

Hey guys.
I've ordered an Elite Racing IL300-6S-EVO2 sequential transmission for my race car. (How's that for a name? LOL)

Now I'm looking at options for controlling clutchless shifts.
My current ECU is an old MBE unit.
The obvious option is a separate GCU, but the cost with sensors is over $1000 for the unit from Geartronics.
I'm inclined to replace the engine ECU with something more modern, that can also handle providing for closed-loop flat shifting.

One that seems well suited is the MAXXECU STREET or MAXXECU SPORT models.
Both have integral LSU WB controllers, and the SPORT adds additional I/O and DBW control, as well as Bluetooth, which is mostly overkill for my needs.

I'll be running ITB's and a Raceline dry sump on a Ford Duratec 4-cylinder.  Alpha-N control, so all I really need is basic engine control and protection, as well as the ability for closed loop shifting and a throttle blip solenoid.

I like the option that MAXXECU's MTune software has for adding an output shaft speed sensor.
You enter your transmission ratios and it will set rev limits during the throttle blip to perfectly rev match downshifts. 

My biggest concern is I don't know anyone who's used their products.
Any input is appreciated, especially if you have first-hand knowledge.

Thanks,
David

I have an MS3Pro on my 427 LS3 stroker. 
Haven't had time to do much with it for a while, but I had moved it to another bay last weekend to work on something else, and decided to go for a spin before putting it back to sleep.

I put the laptop on it to let Tunerstudio do a little auto-tuning.
Ran warmup autotune to try to smooth out the cold start, then went for a drive, trying to get it into as many cells as possible. 
Made several mild to moderate acceleration runs, and rolled into full throttle a few times.  Probably revved to about 6500 rpm in second, and 5000 or so in third, as well as some cruising in 4th and 5th.

AFR's were settling down to around 14-15:1 under cruise, and 12:1 or so under acceleration.

After about 20 miles it seemed to be getting smoother under cruise, so I turned around to go back home.  I got on it a bit in 2nd, and rolled into it in third, when it suddenly went flat. 
I let off and heard noting unusual as it slowed down, but when I accelerated at all it had a bad misfire. Temps and oil pressure were normal. 

I pulled over, popped the hood to see if a connector had come loose, but nothing obvious.  Also no unusual mechanical noises.
I nursed it on home, but noticed AFR was running normal on the left, but 18-22:1 on the right under cruise or light acceleration.  It would go back to 13:1 or so if I stepped on it a bit, but it shook real bad under even light accel. Obviously a cylinder is dead.

When I have time I plan to run the coil and injector tests, and if those check out I'll do a compression and/or leakdown test, but it doesn't seem mechanical, as there's no unusual mechanical noise or smoke.
Also no sign of coolant in the oil.

Any suggestions are welcome.

Not RX7 related, but there's lots of diverse experience here, so I thought I'd ask.

My Pro-Challenge race car has a Winters 7" quick-change rearend.

I finally got around to pulling the spur gears, and both the pinion and jackshafts have play in them, so it needs a rebuild.
Right now it has the 4.57 R&P, but I'm sure they're bad due to the loose pinion.
I plan to change to the 3.78 ratio anyway, as it's a stronger gearset, and will give me a better ratio range for roadracing.

Anyone here ever rebuilt one of these type rearends, and/or know of the best place to buy parts for them?
I already spoke to the shop that's doing my machine work, and they're not a Winters dealer, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of these around my area.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
David

Anyone have experience with ACDelco tools?
I'm looking at this torque-angle wrench. 
Opinions are welcome.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01GOUNZ10/?coliid=I1SKWK9WJAOOQJ&colid=3UBVQQHLW3KUY&psc=0

Was anyone from NoRotors at Cordova IL yesterday for the World Series of Drag Racing?
We're up here working across the road at Quad Cities.
A co-worker went to spectate yesterday, and said there was a black RX7 there that ran 8's.   

Price Drop:
$750 for the scales.
$400 for the pads.

I recently bought another race car, and got a pile of setup stuff along with it, so I'm selling the duplicate stuff.
I wanted to give you guys the first shot before I put it up elsewhere.

First off is a set of Longacre Computerscales and Roll-Off pads. 
The scales have memory to store 4 setups, and were recently sent back to Longacre for calibration and new battery pack.

The Roll-Off pads I bought new a couple years ago, and have only been used a couple times.  They look virtually new.  These have 6 leveling legs to prevent any deflection even under a heavy car.

The cheapest new scales available now are well over $1,000.  Asking $800.
The Roll-Off Pads sell for $800-900 online.  Asking $600.
If you want both, I'll knock off $100.

Longacre Toe Plates w/Tape Measures, $25.

I also have a Scribe type toe gauge from Racer Parts Wholesale, $25.  (I'll get a pic later)

Above prices are + shipping from Bedford, VA 24523, or can be picked up locally.
If you let me know what you want, I'll get weights for shipping estimates.

I'm sure I'll find more extra stuff as I go through it all, and will post it here as well.

Thanks,
David