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Topics - Cobranut

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Drivetrain / WINTERS Quick Change
« on: July 08, 2018, 11:59:12 AM »
Not RX7 related, but there's lots of diverse experience here, so I thought I'd ask.

My Pro-Challenge race car has a Winters 7" quick-change rearend.

I finally got around to pulling the spur gears, and both the pinion and jackshafts have play in them, so it needs a rebuild.
Right now it has the 4.57 R&P, but I'm sure they're bad due to the loose pinion.
I plan to change to the 3.78 ratio anyway, as it's a stronger gearset, and will give me a better ratio range for roadracing.

Anyone here ever rebuilt one of these type rearends, and/or know of the best place to buy parts for them?
I already spoke to the shop that's doing my machine work, and they're not a Winters dealer, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of these around my area.

Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,
David

2
Fabrication / Fabbing an ITB Intake
« on: May 26, 2018, 06:40:48 PM »
Not RX7 related, but lots of talent on here, so thought I'd run this by you guys.

I'm building a motor for my Pro-Challenge racer.  It has a Ford 2.3 Duratec, and I'm swapping on a 2.5 head.
It seems no-one makes an ITB intake that will fit. 

I'm short on space beside the motor at the rear, so can't run Direct to Head Jenvey's, or any other straight manifold setup except the very short, (and very expensive) Cosworth roller barrel throttles.

I'm thinking of building, (or having built, depending on how my aluminum welding skills develop) an intake using aluminum mandrel bends that curve up and over the head, placing the ITB's just above the cam cover.
I can get a flange for the throttle bodies, and found a company that can make the head flange as well.

This should give me a reasonable runner length so I can use short airhorns, and build an airbox to feed air from a large filter at the front of the car.

I know it's recommended to place the injectors close to the throttle plates, but I won't have space for them on top, and I don't think they'll fit underneath either.  I think the stock location in the head would work fine, but if anyone else has experience with anything similar I'd appreciate the feedback.

Also, anyone here near Central VA that would be willing to help me out with the final welding, in case I get in over my head and need some help.  :o

Thanks

3
General Tech / Torque wrench, opinions wanted
« on: March 20, 2018, 10:41:00 PM »
Anyone have experience with ACDelco tools?
I'm looking at this torque-angle wrench. 
Opinions are welcome.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01GOUNZ10/?coliid=I1SKWK9WJAOOQJ&colid=3UBVQQHLW3KUY&psc=0

4
Drivetrain / Dog Ring transmissions
« on: October 19, 2017, 03:04:39 PM »
Not specifically RX7 related, but my Pro-Challenge Mustang currently has a stock T5 from a Ford Ranger behind the 2.3 Duratec.
It already has a very lightweight flexplate with a small diameter racing twin-disc clutch pack.
I want to swap, or if possible, convert it to a close ratio straight cut dog-shifted configuration.
I know G-Force used to offer this, but unsure if they still do.   :scratch:
Does anyone know of another vendor who offers these parts, and how their parts hold up in a road racing environment.

Thanks,
David

5
Drag Racing / Cordova IL anyone?
« on: August 27, 2017, 03:17:11 PM »
Was anyone from NoRotors at Cordova IL yesterday for the World Series of Drag Racing?
We're up here working across the road at Quad Cities.
A co-worker went to spectate yesterday, and said there was a black RX7 there that ran 8's.   :drive:


6
Fabrication / Oil line experience
« on: July 08, 2017, 12:56:38 AM »
Not 7 related, but wanted to get you guys experiences.
The Pro-Challenge Mustang I'm prepping for next season is plumbed with twist-lok hose for the oil system.
It has a Ford 2.3 Duratec, and has -8AN hose everywhere.
I want to move the oil cooler, the filter mount, and the Accusump, as well as reroute the plumbing.

I've always used SS braided hose on my other projects, but am considering sticking with twist-lok on this one, partly to save weight, and mostly to save my fingers from the SS braid.  :o
Sticking with twist-lok will also let me re-use the fittings that are already there, saving quite a few bucks.  I think the existing fittings are Russell.
I'm looking at the twist-lok hose from Fasster LLC on eBay, who is the supplier that Blake is using for the plumbing on his Mustang.  It's rated at 250psi, but I see no temperature ratings.
I figure my oil pressure will top out around 100psi or less, and I aim to keep oil temps under 300 degrees.

My question is has anyone had reliability issues with this type of hose and fittings?

Also, is -8AN large enough for oiling on a 4-banger such as this?

Thanks,
David

7
Price Drop:
$750 for the scales.
$400 for the pads.

I recently bought another race car, and got a pile of setup stuff along with it, so I'm selling the duplicate stuff.
I wanted to give you guys the first shot before I put it up elsewhere.

First off is a set of Longacre Computerscales and Roll-Off pads. 
The scales have memory to store 4 setups, and were recently sent back to Longacre for calibration and new battery pack.

The Roll-Off pads I bought new a couple years ago, and have only been used a couple times.  They look virtually new.  These have 6 leveling legs to prevent any deflection even under a heavy car.

The cheapest new scales available now are well over $1,000.  Asking $800.
The Roll-Off Pads sell for $800-900 online.  Asking $600.
If you want both, I'll knock off $100.

Longacre Toe Plates w/Tape Measures, $25.

I also have a Scribe type toe gauge from Racer Parts Wholesale, $25.  (I'll get a pic later)

Above prices are + shipping from Bedford, VA 24523, or can be picked up locally.
If you let me know what you want, I'll get weights for shipping estimates.

I'm sure I'll find more extra stuff as I go through it all, and will post it here as well.

Thanks,
David

8
General Tech / DYNO session tomorrow, any advice?
« on: May 18, 2017, 09:19:07 AM »
My car is finally going on the dyno tomorrow morning.
Any advice for strapping an FD down securely.
I don't want it to imitate some of the dyno fail videos I've seen.  :o

What are the best tiedown points to use, that will secure the car but not tweak any of the suspension components or pickup points?

Thanks,
David

9
Drivetrain / Best LS starter
« on: January 01, 2017, 03:28:03 AM »
OK, turns out the Chinese starter on my car has a PLASTIC ring gear in the planetary reduction, which, after my motor kicked back while I was tuning the Megasquirt, is now toothless.  :banghead:

Anyone have a recommendation on a good quality high torque starter, that will last on a high compression motor?
Also, it'd be nice if it didn't cost $300+.  (Whatever happened to Chevy parts being cheap???)

Thanks,
David

10
Drivetrain / Shifter installed.
« on: December 29, 2016, 01:31:29 AM »
Had to make a new lower boot to seal the hole.
I forgot to take any pics before I installed the boot, but basically I cut .125 aluminum to fit and covered the opening with rubber from an inner tube.  Glued it with HV-350 and also cut aluminum straps to screw down over it as well.

Hopefully the rubber's not so stiff as to pull it out of gear.  We shall see.

Also attached a shot of my wideband O2 sensors with heat sinks.

11
The Lounge / New racecar
« on: December 29, 2016, 01:07:03 AM »
Well, I bought another racecar, a Pro-Challenge Mustang with Ford Duratec power.
I stumbled across an ad, and thought at first it was too good to be true, but I checked out the owner and everything was legit.

Turned out the owner is retiring from a long racing career, and I bought EVERYTHING related to the race car, including another lift, laser alignment equipment, bunches of spare parts, so much stuff I couldn't even get the car in the trailer.

I made a deal over the phone and email, and the wife and I went to FL before Christmas to pick up all the parts and equipment.  I'll have a shipper pick the car up after the first of the year.

Once I inventory all the stuff, I'll be selling some redundent setup equipment.  I'll post it on here when I figure out what I'll let go.

This also means my road-race Legends car, and all my Legends spares, will be for sale.
I already have someone interested in it, but I'll post it here as well if that doesn't work out.

Here's a couple pics of the new toy.

[ Guests cannot view attachments ]

12
Interior/Exterior / Question re: Windshield and Rear window molding.
« on: December 04, 2016, 08:38:34 PM »
How does one remove the Windshield and Rear Window moldings in preparation for paint?   :confused:
I don't really want to remove the glass.

Do the moldings come out without disturbing the glass or breaking the seal?

I assume they will be damaged when removed.  Anyone know a source for new ones at a reasonable price?

Thanks,
David

13
Drivetrain / Ordered an MGW shhifter.
« on: December 02, 2016, 12:59:26 AM »
I figured while my T56 was out I'd swap in a new shifter.
I've heard nothing but good about the MGW units, so I ordered one last week while it was on sale.

Julie at MGW even called to ask where I wanted the stick clocked, as I had listed the FD on the order page, and she knew it probably needed to be set at 6 o-clock.

I just happened to think about it, so figured I'd ask here.
Does the MGW use the stock F-body bushing in the transmission shifter cup?
If it's different, I wanted to go ahead and order the correct bushing so I won't get held up when I get back to work on it.
My stock bush is in good shape, with no perceptible wear.

Thanks,
David

14
Parts WTB / Need connector for FD clutch switch
« on: November 24, 2016, 08:41:46 PM »
Anyone have leftovers from a chopped up harness that has the mating connector for this switch in it?
If so, I need the connector with several inches of wire attached.
Please let me know how much mailed to 24523 in VA.

Thanks in advance,
David

15
Drivetrain / Driveshaft Safety Loop
« on: November 11, 2016, 10:41:40 PM »
Anyone ever built a driveshaft loop for an FD swap with a T56?

Space is at a real premium in the tunnel, especially with my 3" X-pipe and duals, but breaking a U-joint could get really messy in this car without a loop. :o

I was looking at the possibility of fabricating a loop, and welding a bracket to the Samberg trans crossmember, but if someone has already done a design that works, it would save me a lot of time and effort.   :poke:

Any ideas are appreciated.

Thanks,
Daivd

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