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1994 Mazda RX-7 Base
Price: $40,000
Title: Clean West Virginia Title
Location: Biloxi, MS
Mileage:  Chassis 106k, Drivetrain <5k

I have decided to sell my beloved RX7.  After much debate, I have decided it’s time to move on.  As many of you know, this car has been a labor of love that began in 2008 when I purchased my dream car.  It has transformed from a basically stock car, to two rotary setups, to finally the LS swap it has now.  There are many details about the car that I will try to capture as accurately as possible.  I don’t think there is such a thing as a perfectly swapped FD, but I do feel mine is very very close.  At the same token, there are plenty of small things that the new owner can do to make it their own.  The swap was performed by me and no expense was spared.  I built it to run 10’s at the track, win car shows, and go for a Sunday drive with cold A/C; all with complete reliability. 

The price I have set is somewhat firm as I am in no rush to sell.  The car is worth every penny.  Those that know these cars clearly know this is not your standard LS1/T56 pullout car with a 20 year old paint job.  I am willing to work with potential buyers with shipping the car if needed.  I also have a truck and trailer where personal delivery can possibly be worked out, especially at my asking price.

The parts for the swap are all NEW.  The only single part that was “used” is the Cobra 8.8 differential and it was recently rebuilt.  I performed every aspect of the swap to the best of my ability.  My FD Rx7 is stunning to drive and look at.  I can’t go anywhere without this car drawing neck breaking attention, popping the hood for strangers, and continued compliments.

Mounting Hardware:  All mounting hardware was painted with 500 deg Dupicolor primer and paint.

     • Samberg Mount kits – engine cradle, transmission, cobra diff, and radiator kit
     • Energy suspension polyurethane transmission mount
     • C5 engine mount biscuits

Engine:  The engine was built by Dave White at Redline Motorsports in CA.  It was then put on an engine dyno at CPR Engines to make 637hp/586ftlbs.  The dyno process was directly observed by the builder to ensure everything went smooth.  The engine is extremely strong.  The cam is an aggressive street cam but setup to keep the valvetrain healthy.  I recently had the car tuned at Shexnayder Racing in Baton Rouge, LA.  The car made 393whp/416ftlbs.  Crazy right!  Stock LS3's make better numbers.  They use a Mustang load bearing dyno and it’s setup to disappoint.  Earl the owner actually warned me beforehand.  But one drive, and it's very apparent this car is making over 500whp.  Nonetheless, the tune is excellent, safe, and the car absolutely rips.  As others know, this is a 500whp+ car on a Dynojet.  The car is a complete beast.

     • LS3 416ci Stroker
          o New 6.2L LS3 Block and covers
          o Crank – Callies 4340 Forged 4" w/58x reluctor
          o Rods – Callies 4340 Forged I Beam with ARP bolts
          o Pistons w/ Pins and Rings– 4032 Forged
          o Bearings(Main,Rod) – King Extreme Rod and Mains
          o Pushrods - 4130 3/8"
          o Camshaft w/ Cam Plate– Comp Cams custom grind: 231/247 .617/.624 113
          o Lifters – GM LS7 with trays
          o Lifter Trays/bolts - GM
          o Heads – LS3 CNC Ported by WCCH, Stainless Valves
          o BTR Spring kit w/ titanium retainers
          o Comp Cam roller rockers
          o GM Head Gaskets
          o ARP Head studs
          o ARP Main Studs
          o Oil Pump – Mellings
          o Timing Chain Set – Billet Single Roller with Damper
          o Balanced rotating assembly
     • Ported LS3 intake
     • Holley 95mm throttle body
     • ATI balancer
     • Holley Tall valve covers
     • LS3 coils
     • New Fbody oil pan, windage tray, pickup tube
     • Improved Racing oil pan baffle
     • Elite Engineering catch can
     • Custom SS steam port lines & Howell surge tank
     • FBody accessories ALL NEW
     • Halfspec A/C kit using ES12a refrigerant (controlled by Holley ECU with all OEM safety features)
     • Samberg Radiator Kit
     • Accel ceramic tip plug wires
     • TR55 plugs gapped .050

Transmission & Clutch:  This setup has been proven at 1200whp.  The Magnum is fantastic and the shifter throw is short. 

     • Tremec T56 Magnum (.296 1st)
     • Mcleoud RXT Twin Disc w/ steel flywheel
     • American Powertrain White Lightning shifter (adjustable tension)
     • New OEM Fbody bell housing
     • ARP flywheel bolts
     • Wilwood 7/8” Master cylinder
     • OEM Fbody Slave cylinder
     • SS braided clutch line w/ heat sleeve
     • Mobile 1 synthetic (only synthetic Tremec recommends)
     • Transmission tunnel lined with Heatshield liner

Differential & Driveshaft:  The drivetrain working angles have been dialed in to .5 degrees.  It drives smooth up to 110mph without a hint of drivetrain vibration.  That's as fast as I have had it.

     • Driveshaft Shop Custom drive shaft
     • Cobra 8.8 diff w/3.55 gears (39k miles, recently rebuilt)
     • Polyurethane ear bushings
     • Driveshaft shop axle kit Cobra inner/Mazda outer
     • Royal Purple Fluid with Ford friction modifier

ECU & Fuel

     • Holley HP EFI w/ver 4 firmware
     • Holley LS3 harness
     • Holley 3.5” LCD
     • LS9 Injectors
     • Holley fuel rails w/Holley sensor (fuel pressure logged by ECU)
     • Corvette FPR/Filter
     • Walbro 485
     • Racetronix 2 channel wiring bulkhead (28amp capable)


     • Spoolin 1 7/8” premium merge headers / ceramic coated
     • Custom dual 3” exhaust
           o Magnaflow X-merge center muffler
           o 3” Magnaflow bullet mufflers in the rear

Suspension/Steering/Brakes/Wheels & Tires

     • Suspension
          o Apexi 7-way adjustable shocks, 4-way adjustable perch
          o Eibach Prokit springs
          o Power Flex polyurethane bushings
          o Mazda OEM pillow balls
     • Steering
          o Manual converted rack
          o Polyurethane bushings
          o New Moog inner & outer tie rod ends
          o Alignment
     • Brakes
          o Rebuilt OEM calipers
          o Hawk HPS pads
          o SS brake lines
          o Fresh fluid
          o ABS removed
          o Wilwood proportioning valve
     • Wheels
          o Work Meister S1 3-piece – 18x9 +43 Front - 18x10 +46 Rear
          o Hankook – 265/35/18 Front - 285/30/18 Rear

Exterior:  The car was painted by Luis Auto Body in Burlington, NJ and they did a fantastic job.  The finish is a mirror in person.  The cars paint retains a 10 year warranty and my continued support with any fulfillment if that process is needed.
     • OEM Mazda Montego Blue with PPG paint & Clear
          o Color Sanded
          o Fenders rolled & pulled.  The pull is almost a widebody.  It could easily take a 315 in the rear.
          o Antenna hole shaved
          o Lower chip strip sanded smooth
     • Feed Type 1 Bumper (authentic)– the only one I have seen on a Rx7 car in North America
     • Ganador mirrors
     • Ronnin Mazdaspeed Carbon Hood painted to match
     • New OEM headlight covers
     • New windshield
     • Rotary Extreme hood supports
     • Quiklatch hood pin system
     • 99 Spec tail lights

Interior:  The interior I have kept mostly stock.  The condition is very good.  The base seats are in good condition with only minimal drivers bolster wear.  The plastics are all in great condition with no pealing or scratches.  All switches and dials work as they should.
     • OEM Mazda steering wheel
     • Mazda polished door sills
     • JDM Gauge cluster with 60k - Speedometer calibrated to read in MPH with Dakota Digital
     • All OEM gauges work correctly
     • Rear sound deadening
     • Stereo – currently using 3.5mm to amp for a basic setup to my phone or iPod.  I rarely listen to the stereo in this car.
          o Clarion 200w Amp
          o Alpine speakers front & rear
     • Battery Relocation to Passenger Bin
          o Optima Red Top
          o 10 channel relay box

Full disclosure:

     - I recently swapped to a steel flywheel from an 11lb aluminum.  When doing this, I put in a completely new RXT twin disc assembly with the new flywheel.  I didn't want to take a chance of mating issues.  This gives the car much better driveability overall.  However, the flywheel and new RXT have less than 100 miles on them currently.  I will continue to break them in but Mcleod recommends 600 miles of city driving or 1200-1500 clutch engagements before considering the clutch "broke in". 

     - The differential whines.  It has been rebuilt including new bearings, spider gear, and seals.  It has been driven 3.5hrs each direction to the dyno, driven on the street many miles, went through 3 full days of dyno tuning and street driving.  It’s solid, it’s just not quiet.  After much research I have found that some of them are louder than others.  This was an unopened 39k Cobra unit that I bought from a good dude, then had it rebuilt.  Being an IRS, some noise is to be expected.  I am anal, so it's worth mentioning.

     - The A/C is cold, just not frosty.  This is something that is common with FD’s when running R134a.  My car is running ES12a which is also known for not doing great in humid areas.  After much research I feel the car needs Freeze12 or original R12a to get the desired results.  Nonetheless, I can drive the car on a 100 deg day and still remain comfortable and cool in the car.  It works, but I am a perfectionist I like my A/C to be frosty.

Final Thoughts

I encourage potential buyers to go through my build thread if you have not already seen it.  There are complete pictures and documentation of the process.  I will list the link here, as well as DIYAUTO's complete version, who reached out to me.  They wanted my build for their site and it actually won build of the month.  The DIY thread shows the complete transformation of the car from rotary, to now having the LS3 416.  It's also just the raw progress of the car, without the discussions.  I can discuss with potential buyers my continued vision for the car and quality options to take it further (traction control, etc).  We all know these cars are never really done.  After all, that is part of what makes this journey so awesome.

Norotors Build Thread


Some older pics from a car show.  It still had the front bracket polished and smooth GMPP valve covers.

Engine Dyno

Mustang Chassis Dyno

Some basic pulls and driving before the full tune was done.  This isn't full WOT or rpm range as it wasn't yet fully tuned.  Cold starts, idle, and driveability all excellent now.  The car is scary in the upper RPMs.  Complete beast.

Parts for Sale / LS1/LS6 McLeod RXT twin disk & aluminum flywheel
« on: August 29, 2016, 11:40:40 PM »
I am replacing my Mcleod RXT and Mcleod aluminum flywheel combo with a new RXT and steel flywheel setup.  The setup works perfect, but the aluminium flywheel is just too light for my liking with my engine combo.  It drives well but it doesn't give me the dossel feel I want.  Maybe I'm getting old.  I love how fast it revs and it's great for shredding turns on those heal toe downshifts, but I honestly do more cruising around than anything.  Switching to a heavier flywheel was the easiest solution.

 I didn't want to separate them as they are now broke in and mated together with about 2k miles on them so it made sense to replace them as a unit and post my current combo for sale.  Only street driving for break-in and on the dyno when my car was tuned.  Runs and engages perfectly just as a premium twin disk should.  Holds my 500whp+ 416ci LS3 like a boss.  This setup is virtually new and rated for 1,000hp.

Currently it is still in the car.  I will be pulling the transmission next week for the swap.  I will post detailed pictures of everything when that happens and she will be boxed up ready to ship. 

$1100 shipped to the lower 48. Firm.

Thanks all.

Parts for Sale / Efini OEM Steering Wheel - $200 shipped
« on: August 09, 2016, 10:19:01 PM »
I am selling my Efini OEM steering wheel.  I consider it to be 9.5/10.  Excellent condition with only a few light scratches at the very top of the wheel.  You really have to look to see them.  Overall, looks fantastic and a direct replacement for the OEM FD wheel.

$200 shipped to the lower 48

Parts for Sale / T56 Magnum Shifter - $200 shipped
« on: August 09, 2016, 10:11:42 PM »
Selling my Mcleoud shifter for a T56 Magnum.  It has less than 2k miles on it and shifts tight.  The original boot tore, but I just replaced it with the new material upgraded boot.  100% good to go.

This shifter has the 4" extension that is needed to mount the Magnum tranny in an FD. 

$200 shipped to the lower 48

Parts WTB / Wtb: FD front camber bolts (samberg half moon)
« on: July 08, 2016, 11:23:01 PM »
One of mine is jacked up so I figured I would poll the community to see if anyone has spares.  Looking for the front control arm camber bolts.  It would be awesome if it has the Samberg half moon welded on but not a requirement.  I can call Justin to get the half moon if needed.

Paypal ready!


Parts for Sale / WTB: FD Front Camber bolts w/Samberg half moon
« on: July 08, 2016, 11:16:13 AM »
One of mine is jacked up so I figured I would poll the community to see if anyone has spares.  Looking for the front control arm camber bolts.  It would be awesome if it has the Samberg half moon welded on but not a requirement.  I can call Justin to get the half moon if needed.

Paypal ready!


Parts for Sale / GMPP Smooth Valve Covers w/ coil relocation kit
« on: May 19, 2016, 09:47:19 PM »
I went another direction with my valve covers so I am posting mine up for sale.  The setup is super clean and definitely adds a nice touch to the bay.

GMPP Polished Valve Covers - Part# 19171502 - Includes gaskets, bolts and cap.  These are tall so they will clear aftermarket lifters & big cam.
MSD custom length wires - MSD cord & connectors.  Work perfect, no misfires or issues.
Coil relocation brackets (2) - Includes a couple different size spacers for coil size and mounting options.
4ft Coil extension harness (2)

This setup was on my FD with the coils mounted up front directly below the headlights.

$350 shipped/lower 48

Parts WTB / WTB X-14 Jumper Harness
« on: January 31, 2015, 12:10:15 PM »
Well gents, I long since sold my OEM emission harness that connects to the X-14 dash side.  I need that plug with some wire lengths hanging off.  If anyone has one, I would appreciate it.

Please PM me.

Thanks!   :cheers:

Electronics / Holley's NEW LCD Dash (HP & Dominator)
« on: October 08, 2014, 10:58:20 PM »
Just thought I would throw out some photo's and a link for the new LCD dash Holley is getting ready to finally release.  No date yet, but they keep saying soon.  No dimensions, or specifics other than it will work with HP and Dominator of their CAN bus. Fully customizeable and reads pretty much any ECU metric.  Warnings, analog, digital, color changing, etc.

It's going in my Double Din.  :yay:


At 5:25:15

Build Threads / mods delete please
« on: September 29, 2014, 12:57:41 PM »
Stupid phone.  Mods please delete

Drivetrain / LSX454
« on: September 21, 2014, 02:12:16 PM »
As I scour my options I have been looking at a LSX454.  Like ALL engine options there are benefits and downsides.  I like the 454 option for a few reasons.  I don't like it for a few reasons also.  I'll throw out a list and welcome some opinions from the crew.  Before I do, I want to make it clear what I want from my car.  I have a glorified show car/ weekend cruiser.  I have ZERO plans to road race, or auto cross.  I could care less about the perfect balance, or keeping the intent of the car alive.  I may run it down the strip one day but that is not what I built the car for.  I will do some back roading and enjoy spirited drives but I'm not concerned about absolute handling performance.  I don't shred the curves as much these days.  I like the pull and acceleration of big power, so that is where I am headed.  I want to make the most power, with the best reliability and at a reasonable cost. 

- The first is that it's a crate engine with a warranty.  Everyone says the warranties are crap but after a little searching I have found that GM does a good bit to honor their crate engines that aren't modified or boosted.  Mine will be neither.  Slap it in and go.  As many of you know, I have had some bad luck with a builder and I am leaning towards a crate no matter what I do

- The power is exactly what I want.  620hp/580ftlbs will make for a fun street car.  I'm not sure what I will put to the wheels but I imagine it would be high 500's if not breaking 6.  I would never have a need for more with my intentions of my car.

- The price isn't bad.  I press "submit" and I get my long block in 3 days from Jegs. 

- The weight is obviously more than an aluminum setup.  In fact, it looks to weigh in about 110lbs more than an aluminum setup.  This is from what I have read mostly on the Vette forum since it's gaining popularity for those guys and more shops are doing an actual weight comparison with both engines on the floor.  Will having an Asian chick laying on my hood affect handling that much?  I don't know....  Enough for me to really notice?.... I don't know.  I do know that many SC or Turbo guys are adding at least 60lbs of extra weight with those power adders.  I have considered an LS3 and SCing later.  That is why I bring up the weight factor of power adders. 

- To my knowledge, it hasn't been done in an FD.  Does that count for anything?  A little bit to me.

- I can get more engine for less money.  Though I still think the crate is a good deal, I know I could build or have an engine built for less.  How much less, and how much less power is the real question.

- Cost.  It's alot of money for just a long block.  I could finish my car and be on the road with a stock LS3.  If I wanted more, I could SC later.

- Weight Weight Weight.  110lbs over the front wheels is alot.  I am affraid that even though I don't "race", it will change the way the car drives even on the street.  A little different is no big deal.  But if it wants to under-steer into a God Damn bridge embankment every time I take a turn, then it's no bueno.

Be Gentle... :halo: :popcorn:

Parts WTB / WTB: FD Tach face or cluster
« on: June 23, 2014, 10:36:09 AM »
I was doing the gauge mod and damaged my tach face when scraping the orange film off the back.  If anyone has a spare or even a spare cluster, I would be interested in buying it.

PM me.


When I bought my Samberg radiator kit I purchased the intake pipe with the LS7 maf upgrade.  I am going with the Holley HP so no need for the MAF now.  Just looking to swap with somebody that may have gone another direction as well.

Drivetrain / LS3 Crate 525hp/480hp/430hp... Thoughts and experience?
« on: November 06, 2013, 09:59:49 PM »
Hey guys, I am on the fence with my options on a crate engine.  I threw some of this info in my build thread and I got some good responses, but I figured I would make a post to get some more opinions.  GMPP makes three different crate engines that I am looking at.  Since I am starting from scratch, I will opt to go with their harness and ECU as well.  The GMPP ECU is supposedly setup for each package.  However, I have a feeling more tuning attention will be needed on either setup. 

My goals are a fun street car/weekend warrior.  A/C and PS, with relative manors.  Not looking for a lope that rattles my teeth, or has trouble with my accessories and vacuum brakes.  I know the 525hp uses an ASA cam.  I've been doing as much research as possible.  The 480hp uses a "hotcam".

LS376/525hp - $8728

LS376/480hp - $7729

LS376/430hp - $7239

Does anyone have experience with these engines or the ASA cam?  Particularly the 525hp?  Thoughts on either one in a street application?

Thanks in advance!

Build Threads / XLR8's Dark Side Build: 416ci's of fun!
« on: November 03, 2013, 11:52:42 PM »
The Decision

Hello everyone!  After much much debate, I have decided to go for an LS3 swap in my FD.  I recently completed a long single turbo rotary project and put down 540whp @24psi.  The rear rotor let go and I was once again faced with the decision of a LS swap.  I have thought about it in the past, but never really gave it serious thought.  After driving a friend's LS3 FD, and doing a little "soul searching", I think an LS3 swap will fit my needs the best for this time in my life.  I'm getting sick of always wrenching and not driving the car.  This will be the last build for this car, and it will be a good one....

As the car sits....

As you can see, my FD is very well put together.  My plan is of course to sell off ALL parts rotary related.  I easily have $10k even with a blown rear rotor.  In actuality, I think the rear apex seal is warped, which give way to no damage and a bit of money for my new rotor housings.  In any case, stripping the bay and drivetrain will take some time.

Power Plant

I have been really looking at two major options for this build.  The options must meet my overall criteria.  It must be relatively tame for the street, and it must be as quick as the rotary (within reason).  I will retain both PS, and A/C.  I will be using all Samberg swap parts for this project.  His radiator and intake as well.

1.  GMPP LS376/480 crate engine.  From what I can see, this LS3 with the "hot cam" would give me a mild manor street car, but give me a nice boost from the stock LS3.  I imagine it would dyno out at around 450-460whp with full headers, intake, and tune.

2.  GMPP LS376/525 crate engine.  I originally thought this would be best, but as I looked at the ASA cam used, I feel it may be a bit much for the street.  I have searched around and I do get mixed opinions on this setup.  I imagine it would dyno close to 480-490whp with proper support.

3.  Turnkey 427 LS3 Stroker.  Obviously the "cut throat" approach to what I want.  The only real reservation with this approach is the cost.  I have seen them put down 500-550whp with no issues and still be well mannered.  Ultimately, this is what I want, but I'm not sure if I am ready to bite off the price tag.  It may take some convincing to my wife on this one....  I do realize I could start with the 6.2, and if I were inclined, eventually pull the motor for a revision.  I am still debating on all of this though.

As I start to part out my setup, and do more research, I feel things will become more clear.  Any and ALL opinions are welcome!!

Thanks everyone.

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