Something Jason and I put together was Published today. Figured you guys who love the FD may enjoy it.
https://petrolicious.com/articles/1-of-350-finding-and-modifying-my-limited-production-1993-mazda-rx-7-r1

This is my experience importing a 1993 Mazda RX-7 into the United States from Canada. I will outline the process as it pertained to my situation. This will not be the process for everyone depending on the car, its age and if it was built to US Specification or not and what you will do with it when it gets here. A vehicle used off road or for display is easier to get in than one you will drive on public highways and that will require registration.

First off you CAN Import a car yourself IF the car already conforms to EPA requirements for emissions and DOT standards for anti-theft devices and crashworthiness. You can find this out by contacting the Manufacturer. Its something you will need to do for the process and it should be the first thing you do once you find a car that you want to import. The Manufacturer will need the Vin # and Build date for the car. I contacted Mazda Corp through their Canadian Homepage. I believe there is a link to a form to request this letter in the Customer support and FAQ area. It was easy and the response was fast. They will email you a PDF that you can print. It will detail that the car conforms or if it does not conform and which states in the US it may not conform i.e. California...

One you have this form that states the car conforms you are well on your way. Now the Federal paperwork Begins. The EPA form 3520 and DOT form HS799 need to be completed and print the letter from the Manufacturer (not from a franchise, Has to be from the Corporate letterhead) and keep this with you as you will need it during customs. There is also a form stating where the vehicle originated from etc.

Here is a link detailing the process and has forms you can fill out prior to arriving at Customs to speed up the process.
https://help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/218/~/requirements-for-importing-a-vehicle-%2F-vehicle-parts

Ok so read the forms carefully. It states that the vehicle in my case was over 21 years old and is exempt from EPA AS LONG AS IT WAS NOT MODIFIED from stock. Well my car was not stock but no one actually inspected my car physically. I also did not go through customs at the point of entry. The owner of the car drove it into the US and I trailered it back to NJ 6 hours. I then went to my closest Customs point of entry in Philadelphia and filed my paperwork and paid Duty on the value. This went much easier than I had anticipated.

The State of New Jersey paperwork was more complicated. They wanted all of the Federal Paperwork as well as Forms of their own and the process was BY MAIL ONLY. It took approx. 6 weeks for them to process the paperwork Cash my check for 7% sales tax and $85 fee for the title.
New Jersey calls this its "Foreign Title service" if you happen to be in my state and want to do this.

The list of things NJ required was much longer and because the vehicle is a limited production vehicle I was also registering it as a "Collector Car" in my state. This requires limited use agreed value insurance and there is a mileage limitation to 3k miles a year. It allows me to avoid the emission testing. At 25 years old everything changes on a Federal and State level and its easier to bring in about anything you would want. For now NJ makes room for special limited production cars to avoid this but you will need a letter stating the numbers that the car was produced. I believe the cut off is 3000 or less per year of production and you can get this documentation from the manufacturer or a recognized car club etc. Must have this on letterhead. More info can be found about that on the NJDMV site but for now we are talking about importation. Here is what the state will require for the title service and so you can register your car in NJ.

Have a look
Instructions for Out of Country (Import)
• OS/SS-7 “Application for Certificate of Ownership” must be completed.
• 7% Sales tax must be satisfied.
• MSO/Original Title/Registration from the foreign country is required.
• If a MSO should be in customer name or assigned to customer.
• Original shipping documents from importer/shipper of the vehicle.
• Must contain the year, make, and VIN of the vehicle.
• $60.00 check or money order payable to: NJMVC.
• $85 fee if the title will be issued with a lien.
• Pencil tracing or photograph clearly showing the complete VIN.
• Original/ Carbon EPA-Form 3520-1 from the Federal Environmental Protection Agency.
• Must obtain from U.S. Customs or download from website: www.epa.gov.
• This document verifies the vehicle meets air pollution regulations.
• This document is not required if vehicle is greater than 25 years old.
• Original/Carbon Customs Entry Form 7501 or 3461from Dept of Customs & Border Protection, US Homeland Security. (7501 used when filing directly at the time of import; Form 3461 is used when filing in advance of import.)
• Must contain original customs stamp and the year, make, and VIN of the vehicle. www.cbp.gov.
• Original/Carbon HS-7 “Declaration” from the US Department of Transportation, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
• Must contain the year, make and VIN of the vehicle.
• Can be obtained at the following website www.nhtsa.dot.gov.
• Original Bill of Sale/Invoice is required if purchased from a dealer. If purchased from an individual, a notarized bill of sale is required (can be handwritten). If from Canada it has to be notarized in Canada.
• Must contain the year, make, VIN, date, price, and buyer/seller signature.
• Official translations by a reputable entity such as State College or a consulate for ALL foreign documents (Title, MCO, MSO, Bill of Sale, etc.)

Yes some of the forms were in French as the car came from Montreal, Quebec Canada but I did not have them translated. I got my title without issue but its something they could have decided t kick back to me. Most everything was in English though.

Another point about Canada is that almost no Provinces have vehicle titles. You will need to be sure to get a title search done. I did to make sure there were no liens. Your DMV may require it. There are companies in Canada that will do the search for you. It cost me about $55. The email you the results quickly. At least in my case. No issues and my mind at ease. in Lieu of a title you will need a NOTORIZED bill of sale AND the current registration signed over to you including the current mileage etc. In Canada the registration has this accommodation on it. Its used much like a vehicle title here in the states is used.

 My state required the bill of sale be notarized in the Country that the transaction took place. I've heard that my state were sticklers about this so make sure you have this done before you take possession and hand over the cash. People are less motivated to go out of their way to help after they have completed their end of the transaction.


Hopefully this will help you if you want to do the same. if you want to import a car that DOES NOT CONFORM you will need to go through an authorized company that will perform the required modifications so the car WILL conform. This is both EPA and DOT requirements for cars not 25 years old older.

Mike

In my opinion the best swap is likely the ones most supported by the industry for ease and support of install.
 Possibly some trailblazers can shed light on other Donors they prefer below or support your vote with your additional comments.
I know there are other motors being swapped but let's just concentrate on the LS swaps in this thread.

SOLDWant another toy and wife says this has to go first. Not looking for trades.
Located in Mount Laurel NJ
I have about $47k invested into this car. It runs strong and made about 440hp/440tq on a Dynapack dyno a couple weeks ago
Was tuned by Doug at East Coast Supercharging.

It has its share of dings and 20 year old paint but it shines. I just had a twin disc clutch with aluminum flywheel (replaced rear main seal at same time as well as new clutch slave)installed a few weeks ago.
It has cold A/C and working heat. The factory gauges all work. Had all the wiring sorted by a speed shop.

103k miles total on chassis. 16k miles on swap. Motor was a new crate LS3 when installed; not a pullout.
Clean title

Engine subframe is Hinson but everything else is Samberg.
Has aluminum driveshaft and TII S4 diff with 3.90 gears

Wheels are Work Meister S1R with brand new Nitto NT05's on the back. Brand new Supra
TT fuel pump installed last week.
Has a race shop roll bar installed as well. Also installed an APracing BBK a couple months ago and it stops awesome!

Was aligned and corner balanced a couple months ago.

Car traps 120mph in the 1/4 mile. I don't hammer it so the times are just around 12 flat.

SOLD!. Mik3ymomo@yahoo.com
Video clip http://youtu.be/zWSzezfs_cw

RE-Amemiya RX-7 GT35R by -mik3ymomo-
LS3 RX-7 FD3S by -mik3ymomo-
RX-7 at Autumn by -mik3ymomo-
RX-7 in Autumn by -mik3ymomo-
LS-3 RX-7 [Explored] by -mik3ymomo-


Weight with driver. 2960lb car only

Ignore the red seats. No longer in car
Carbon Kevlar seats by -mik3ymomo-
LS3 w 15k miles-
T-56 6speed
18" Work Meister S1r wheels-
Hinson engine subframe-
Corvette style engine mounts
Samberg Radiator-
Samberg Trans mount-
Samberg Diff mount-
Samberg Bump steer Kit
Installed factory Black carpet-
GM Performance PCM- Tuned with HP Tuners
Aftermarket Cat back- (fits stock RX-7)
Custom Y pipe
JTR Ceramic coated  1 7/8 headers (most desirable)
Battle version rear Lower control arms
Battle version Trailing Arms
Battle version toe links
S4 TII Dif
3.90 gears
Stance GR+ coil overs 10k, 10k springs
LS-1 low mount compressor
Katech billet manual tensioner
Brand New belts
Water pump (new)
LS-1 power steering pump with braided line and reducer pill (not to over power rack)
25% under drive pump pulley (not to over power rack)
LS3 TB
LS3 MAF
LS3 Inj
Fuel rail
Holley valve covers
Race shop Roll bar just installed
New Denso supra TT pump
Braided -6AN return less corvette style fuel line to rail
McLeod RXT twin plate with Alum flywheel
Wilwood 7/8 clutch master cyl
929 Brake master cyl
JDM brake booster
Braided brake lines
Braided clutch line
99 spec tai lights (real)
99 spec chin spoiler
RE Amemya pro rear diffuser (shine)
Shine rear duck tail wing
Spirit R steering wheel (red stitching)
Pro 5.0 tower with steeda triax shifter
Shelby GT500 shift knob
APRacing brakes front and stop tech rear stock replacement.
Wide foot sway bar mounts
Front and rear racing beat sway bars with urethane mounts
RE hood damper kit
Improved racing 20B/LSx strut tower brace
Improved racing sway bar end links
Halfspec A/C retrofit lines, controler, drier.
A/C condenser for Samberg Rad
New mazda front plate mount
New mazda turn signals
New mazda horns (in box)
New mazda drivers side A pillar (in plastic)
New mazda oil pressure sender just installed
New mazda dash grills 1 in plastic and 1 installed
New mazda center speaker grill
A few other interior plastics I have not yet installed but have them to replace a couple cracked pieces.
New pillow balls
New alignment bolts
New drive by wire GTO gas pedal (in box)
CTS-V Drive by wire gas pedal in car.( Possibly GM performance only part not CTS-V)
ARP extended wheel studs
ER40 Oddessy Battery
Custom auninum battery box for rear bin with strap (had made at local machine shop. (PO had battery flopping around in rear bin)
JVC head unit with Lifetime Satellite radio (can't get this anymore)
Check engine light works!
Btw is tuned on dynapak 440hp/440tq
New iridium plugs in box
New Wilwood clutch master reservoir
Non Bose rear carpet
Stock steering wheel (not installed)
Aluminum driveshaft

So my car currently has an LS7 clutch and Fidanza LS2 Aluminum flywheel. Motor is stock LS3.
Clutch and flywheel had 15k miles on it when I bought it.

Since I've had it I've only put 1k miles on it and its always shifted slow and got
continually worse so I had the clutch bled. It seemed to actually help bleeding the clutch but it was short lived. Now its starting to slip and I believe its the clutch disc itself that is worn.

I was looking at a twin disc and talked to Mcleod tech support. They recommended a 3/4 bore 1" stroke master cyl for that clutch with my application.

They mentioned that over stroking the clutch is as bad as under stroking it.
I have the 7/8 Wilwood and it seems so does everyone with these swaps.

I would be interested in your guys recommendations.

- Mike

I have a new Springfield Armory M1A with Black Synthetic Stock. Purchased it brand new last year and only fired it on one occasion to sight it in.
It comes with a custom rail and Atlas Bipod ($350).
1 factory 10rnd magazine.

When I bought it these were going for almost $2k (without bipod) last year but prices have settled some.
Nothing wrong with it. I just never shoot it. Its still in the original box and has all original paperwork.
Brand new firearm at an excellent price.

I also have about 500 rounds of 7.62/.308 on hand worth about $800-$900 that I can negotiate into the deal if interested.

Also a Sig Sauer P226 MK25 (Navy Seals Sidearm) $775 plus FFL/Shipping
Only shot on 3 occasions. In box with (3) 15 round magazines.








- Mike

Runs 21psi just off the waste gate spring and being tuned for up to 28 psi. Will be at a Roll Racing event at Pocono Raceway April 5th.
I took this Vid at Undercover Performance in New Jersey yesterday.
http://youtu.be/pSag5ePHTnw

$136 each. Get them quick!