Testing the waters. Fully optioned MS3Pro Ultimate setup

This will be taken off my 440LS7 but can be dropped onto any GEN 4 or with a little work a Gen 3 motor.

What's included:
ECU
Base tune for how everything is setup including Tunerstudio Project)
Complete harness
Two AEM 30-0310 CANBUS widebands
Holley 95mm Throttle body (if they want it to make tuning easier)
MS3 309pg printed and collated manual with my wire assignment scribblings inside.
All connectors and wires for the chassis will be labeled
I can include my throttle cable as well of someone needs it.

What's not included:
Anything bolted to or screwed into the engine or chassis IE no sensors or circuit breaker boxes included outside the wide bands.

I can include the Dakota Digital SGI-5E if someone really wants it just to make their wiring life easier.

The harness has connectors for:
58X Crank sensor
4x Cam sensor
Dual Bosch knock sensors (OEM)
Coolant temp (OEM)
Oil temp (Improved racing vette style mounted on their thermostat block adapter
Oil pressure (Lowdollar) 100psi eng safety strategy inc
Fuel pressure (Lowdollar) 100psi eng safety strategy inc
Intake air temp (OEM)
A/C pressure (OEM)
A/C clutch control
Clutch and brake input for launch and flat shift
Front ABS input for traction control
EV6 injectors
LS3 style coils
Full DR44 alternator control and load monitoring

The harness can be swapped to 24X relatively easily but I need to have been paid before I modify the harness. Within the ECU it's just a toggle.

I'm going to a DBW setup and while that is technically possible with the addition of an extra box I need full integration for a future BMW DCT swap.

Asking $1500 for the harness, ECU and widebands
$1800 with the Throttle Body. This is not a cheap chinesium TB.

I will take in trade a 95mm+ DBW Throttle body. Side motor type.

Please feel free to ask any questions. I can take more pictures if someone wishes. I don't do rats nests. This setup is VERY clean. Not milspec but really nice.

https://htg-tuning.com/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2018-BMW-M5-M6-F06-F10-F12-F13-DCT-Dual-Clutch-7-Speed-Transmission-Oem/184367476656?hash=item2aed286fb0:g:-OMAAOSwAG9fEdFH

https://pmcmotorsport-shop.com/product-eng-3110-PMC-Motorsport-Adapter-Kit-GM-Chevrolet-V8-LS-LS1-LS3-LS7-BMW-F87-M2-F80-M3-F82-F83-M4-DCT-DKG-GS7D36SG.html

Combined price is not a whole lot more than selling my twin plate manual setup. I know the exhaust might be an issue but I can make the tunnel work.

The motor should be no more than 500-525rwtq in a car that is 1400lb lighter. Stock clutches should be good.

I have a DR44 alternator that's been modified for self exciting to 14.4V. With the Yellow top it works perfectly. With the Antigravity ATX30 restart it works right after starting but about 15 sec in it goes nuts and tries to spike the voltage. Fortunately I have the ECU to cut the engine above 14.6vdc.

Anyone seen this before? Do I need to go back to ECU controlled alternator?

So I have a 427(LS7 style) and a Powermaster mastertorque starter. The line from the bin to the firewall is 1/0 and from that post to the starter is 4ga high quality welding wire. About 3ft long. The battery is an Optima yellow top 51r.

The terminals on the battery were actually getting warm(mildly) and starting sounded very labored. My current clamp was averaging 250A and max hold said OL. HA

I know where the weaknesses lie but I'm curious what other high compression folks are running.

I have a 200A breaking that I'm going to bypass first. Yes, it popped after 5sec of work. Then I'll add the Jeeps battery. Then I'll test voltage drop across the cable. Any other ideas to test?

https://www.hardwire-electronics.co.uk/productcategories

Their big setup has 25 20A outputs and <1000£ ($1300USD) or 15 20A outputs for <700£.

No reversing outputs for windows it seems though.

I don't see any can standards listed so you may have to add in what CAN you are using yourself but this is cheap!

Color me intrigued.

I'm currently in Aus visiting my wife and Varex being an Aus brand is cheaper to buy here and bring back in your luggage. Ha

3.5" inlet with a 4" tip. The motor is controlled by a simple two wire and a pulse sequence for variability best I can tell. I should be able to get the ECU to drive it without their box.

Pair o HIDs. Early model. Upgraded ballast(Morimoto three five) and brand new lenses for the housing. Early model had ballast that were crap and the projector caused the lense to crack. All solved.

Will include a pair of new bulbs.

Moving an a couple years and need RHD.

Asking 800 plus shipping obo.

The image of the cracked lens is repaired all new lenses now.

I have for sale a Tony Mamo small bore LS top end. Both the heads and intake have been hand finished by Tony(-$800 additional). The intake was modified to reduce firewall bashing on my RX-7. It holds perfect vacuum all day long but I wouldn't run boost with it. A keen eye will notice one valve is different(REV vs Ferrea). One rocker and valve did not get along so I ordered replacements from Tony. I have the right shims for the rockers for proper wipe. For the sake of the springs(-5k miles) the car was never taken over 2000RPM until the oil was 70'C+.

Mamo hand blended 220's with hollow intake valves and dual springs/ti retainers and new stem seals. 60cc chambers $2000 shipped assuming Fastenal. If you want FedEx or UPS you pay the difference.

Comp cam 3 bolt 225/227-114+3 .612"/.614" LSL/LSL $150 obo
I will include a copy of the receipts from Tony.

The dynos were all over the place. One said
508whp the other said 420whp. The 420 was with 3 broken ring lands and compression low on 2 cylinders. The ring lands were between the 1st and 2nd ring. No damage above the piston.
SBE LS1.
It did about 123mph in the quarter at 3000lb.

Willing to trade for LS7 type items. Stock casting fixed heads and intake.

Thanks for looking,

Patrick