So around spring of '17 I was in bad need of new tires. The Sumitomo HTR Z III were 7 years old and while not totally terrible in the dry at this point they were down right scary in the wet.
I had asked around about what size to get and LOF and Blue t2 were quite helpful in getting the sizes sorted.
The car originally had Falken 615's when I bought it and they had gone hard. It's wasn't terrible as I was in Hawaii at the time so I had a little experience with the 200TW tire.
In the spring of '17 I had decided on a set of Yokohama Advan Neova AD08R (name is far too long). 255/35-18 and 295/30-18. The grip was so good that within a month I had split the stock diff shifting from 1st to 2nd. LOVED the tires.
Fast forward through a year in temp controlled storage while I was stationed in Korea and the tires had turned into rocks. Worse than the 7yr old 300TW Sumitomos. In San Antonio on a 90° day I had actually slid through a red light. Fortunately, it had just changed and no one was moving but me.
Prior to the hardening I loved the tire. Great feel and predictable. The back was a little vague but only because my rim wasn't quite wide enough for the 295 tire so it wandered a bit.
The tires now have 8/32" tread left having started at 10/32". After a bit of back and forth, a lot of reluctance on Yoko's part, dodgy excuses and a very helpful Discount Tire employee I'm able to get a pro-rated store credit for the tires. They are being sent back to Yokohama for analysis and if they find a manufacturing defect(hardening I hope) I'll get a full price refund rather than 75%. 75% because min depth is 2/32". So the advertise 10/32" but you only have 8/32" of usable depth. All manufacturers seem to do this. Makes a refund in my case go from 80% to 75%.... :-/
I was pretty skeptical early on about getting anything back. Trying to swallow a $1400 waste of money with 2k miles and no racing or track time was difficult to say the least. Discount Tire honestly was pretty awesome about it. Yokohama, not so much but they may make thing right still. I won't be holding my breath.
Maybe I just got a bad batch and they are better now but I wouldn't buy them again. The manufacturer just tried too hard to get out of honoring their warranty.

So the hood spring kit was awesome but had a couple interference issues. This would actually cause the hood to bulge above the fenders. The spring was too big in diameter and the cnc bracket would hit one of the bolts.

I found a spring solution. Guden makes the GGN47-040-C. Same 40lb pressure. They are well priced too. That being said, now that they are on, I think 30lb would be better.

You'll also need the ball ends. EF090A-02

The area circled in red needs to be shaved down.

The arms are notched to clear the rack boots.

I'll clean it up before shipping. :-)

$200

Shipping and PayPal fees not included.

OBO

I have one of each.

The Holley has about 20 miles on it. It's the -8an o-ring version. Pressure is 4bar. ~59psi $100

The Vette had about 50 miles on it. Includes AN fittings. 58psi $40

Both are plus shipping and obo.

Before I went to Korea for a year the engine was pulling about 108% on the VE at peak torque. Now it needs over 120%. Not realistic for my motor.

Obviously I'd think the fuel pressure was dropping but it's a solid 58psi the whole time. Injectors are spotless. And I just calibrated the o2's. It has the Bosch 4.9 sensors. LC-2 WB's.

I even checked the valve springs.

The issue is only at WOT. Any other time everything is fine. Any ideas?

So I had mentioned in another thread that I had quite a few plans for the house I bought less than a month ago. Closed on 11 Jan.

The house is nothing fancy. 1500sq ft in a nice location and no one behind me. San Antonio has notoriously hard water(10-30gpg). The house has a standard 50gal water heater and no softener(or even a loop for one). I didn't want to eat into my garage space so I took out the year old tank and replaced it with an electric tankless unit and softener. The house is all electric so the heater needed 3, yes 3, 40amp double pole breakers running at 240vac for a total of 27kW.

The garage just wasn't going to cut it, so the RX finally was going to get a decent home. I ground and etched the very poor concrete. Filled in the thin crack that ran across the room, filled in all the small holes and put down a new floor epoxy. I was originally going to use black, white and blue chips but decided to swap out the blue for hunter green. (Brownie points since it's the wife's favorite color)

Now I need your help. I need to pick a wall color. It will be semi or full gloss. The whole house is shades of beige. This must change. RX is black and may go to montego soon.

Pics coming shortly.

So last fall I moved from the Netherlands to Korea(the southern type) and the FD went to my brother in Delaware. Before the car was shipped it ran really rather well. The only part not really tuned was cold startup(below freezing) and closed loop. All the AFR's were dialed in rather close both on the road and dyno.

Now the car is in Delaware and it's running super rich. It went from 14.6 to 11.2. The kPa on the baro is only 1-2kPa different and the temp was in the mid 40's. I have not recalibrated the O2's but when I pulled fuel it got better falling pretty much inline with what the O2's are saying.

That being said, can any of you think of anything that would cause this? It took the car about 3 months to be delivered. Warm or cold it acts the same. I have to pull roughly 15-20% in the VE table. I could see an AFR point but 3-4?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1eatXulej0zbJ9rxKienYVcharLv6eUwL My project backup

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_OaeXkMjCJdR1gx8O1OYjEbZsR7A_cr2 The tune

So I have a pretty beat up Samberg radiator. What you see in the pics is what you get.

It does have a couple small leaks that need to be fixed. You can run it but you'll have to check the coolant level every couple weeks.

The fan is included.

$200 obo + shipping

Shipping will be with USPS from zip 09752