October 26, 2020, 03:30:30 AM

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Topics - kinger

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Drivetrain / Anyone ever build a EV?
« on: October 13, 2020, 11:15:50 AM »
Got a hankering for a Tesla swap in a car, curious if anyone has done anything with EV.  The instant TQ, no tuning, no leaks, fuel cost, and noise are seeming to be more attractive to me then before. 

Tesla is a bear to 'hack' they are trying to create very little use for salvage cars by locking them down but the aftermarket is booming now offering controllers and retrofits that allow you to use the parts.  You wouldn't be able to supercharge it anywhere but just add a aftermarket controller to plug in at any outlet.  The tesla battery modules and motors which is the reason why they are fast and why I would only be interested in using for a project are now hacked and can be used.  The 5kwh modules are 56 lbs and I am thinking at least 12-14 would be needed to get 150+ range and support the power of the 680 ft-lb motor (cradle weighs around 340lbs). 

Model S cars complete and running are now in the 20-30's for price, which is much cheaper then buying the components separately.  Essentially you need a donor car, a wrecked tesla, and about $8K in aftermarket parts and you can have a running driving performance EV. 

The entire subframe connects with 4 bolts to the car, so you would use all the tesla parts(half shafts, control arms, etc), they are wider then a lot of cars so probably need a Ronin fender kit in the rear or something. 

The controllers would control a front drive if you wanted to really get crazy and go AWD, use the telsa steering, etc.  Although this would take a significant amount of effort, a RWD subframe and using stock front would be much easier and add battery storage up front. 

Worst part is the batteries, mounting and the cost.  Trying to balance range with weight. 

I have seen one FD with the swap but its was really hacked and he was working to clean it up but it drove which is amazing to just get the motors to work for and get around the proprietary canbus. 

Me using my FD as a fair weather car anyway, I wouldn't need a lot of the creature comforts in favor of speed. 

If you go electric HVAC, PS, Brakes, etc it really adds up in cost just to have something we are used to having. 

Just curious on peoples thoughts.  :drive:

The Lounge / Who wants to be president!
« on: September 30, 2020, 11:43:13 AM »

Man politics is quite the show! 

Has any one more clever then me come up with a high quality dash replacement?  I was thinking something all digital but have it boot up quickly when car is started, maybe read OBD2 data faster then a wireless OBD2 reader (which are slow and jerky), maybe a PC with like HP tuners on it or something?  I want it to be automatic and require no fiddling on every start up.  I liked dashsketch app on my ipad but its too slow with the wireless OBD2.  I don't like herky jerky speeds.

I keep toying with a dash that works better then my speed huts, I just am not a fan of them.  They look great but I have 9 of them and aside from the 2 pressure gauges they are all intermittently off compared to scan logs or other data collections (like a lab grade wide band in the tailpipe).

Just curious what's out there.   Also considering utilizing the double din location for a new info tainment set up that possibly integrates with the dash, etc.  Just modernizing things a bit. 


The Lounge / EDIT - my first vid!
« on: September 09, 2020, 12:58:20 PM »
Not looking to become the next youtuber star but thinking of video'ing some of my garage shenanigans and seeing if I like posting to YouTube. 

Just curious if anyone has found a reasonable camera kit that takes good vids, has a good wireless mic, tripod, etc.  Basically starting from scratch.  I have a go pro I am dabbling with but feel I need to up my game if I wanted it to look nice and more importantly have crisp clear sound. 

Just curious if any of you would recommend anything.  Also not worth more then $500 in stuff either.  Its mainly documentation so I don't forget! ha!

Just dialing in my idle while the clutch is pressed in coasting.  It used to be all over and I dialed in my spark tables and got it really close.  I think I'm done with the spark tuning now.   Just cleaning up my VE table now and my STFTs oscillate between -7 and +5 as the idle bounces slightly between 1070-820 (idle set at 875).  My AEM WB shows 13.8-14.9 roughly and oscillates with the STFTs.

How good is good?  It only does this occasionally.  Sometimes its falls and stops hard at idle and stays there, I'm splitting hairs and have it working almost OEM like stability now.  Mostly I am just enjoying tuning and playing with the performance.  I have it ripping!  So much cleaner! 


The wandering and darting on my car is seemingly getting worse over time. Here is a couple scenarios:

1.  Long sweeping right hand 50mph turn - imagine a road that has a 90 degree sweeper. Speed limit 50.  I can take this turn at literally 100mph with no issue.  What’s happening is while going through the turn the car will pull to the left then stay where I have the wheel then pull to the left then back.  It’s not enough to take the wheel out of my control but it’s tugging the car the opposite direction I want to turn it.  It repeats this pattern throughout the entire sweeper about every 1-3 seconds

2.  Hard acceleration- it juts and jutzs to the left and right.  Enough that I have to let off a few times.  If the road is perfectly smooth it seems to be less then if the road has ruts. 

3.  Pulls left and right wildly over 100- so I almost shat myself. On my favorite road I got behind a slow car.  I dropped to 3rd and hammered around him. As soon as I went into the other lane the car started oscillating left and right.  I was scared I was going to run into the car I was passing.  Once past him I tried to merge back into my lane and again the car is loose as hell and all over the place. On another stretch of Mexican back roads I can really stretch her legs and have for the past 3 years routinely seen redline in 4/5th gears there.  I didn’t get much past 120 and I thought I was going to lose it!  I actually got panicked and scared thinking I would get sideways and start barrel rolling.  I got it slowed down and under 70 mph seems just fine.

Car has Koni shocks, ground control coilovers, all have low miles.  17x10 rims all 4 corners, 275/40/17 rear and 255/40/17 front worn and cupped NT01 tires. Samberg subframe circa 2010 with his bumpsteer correction kit. I don’t know if the car was ever aligned with @halfspec but it has not since I have had it.  There is nothing loose that I can see, eccentric bolts have stayed in place.  Ford 8.8 from a cobra so I think it’s a limited slip. Has ford fluid and ford tc additive in it two years 5000 miles old. 25lbs of air in tires.

Should I buy a long acre bumpsteer tool?  Has anyone ever measured the rear?

Is the diff sticking ?  Is that that thing?

Are the tires causing this?  I love the NT01 grip but they don’t make it a year.  Anything more GT Oriented option that may help wandering?  What about pressure.  High/low ? What impact would that have?

I wanted Ohlins coilovers eventually but I don’t hate the ride of my Konis. 

Where would you start? 

Thanks as always!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drivetrain / MID sleeved block - Do you like it?
« on: March 24, 2020, 02:31:55 PM »
Wondering if anyone had a block re-sleeved with the MID wet sleeves not the dry Darton sleeves.  I'm looking a LS7 block with MID sleeves. 


Thoughts on the points copied and pasted in below?

Looking at some of the detail there some points that concern me:

We highly recommend the use of 4032 alloy pistons for normally aspirated street use and 2618 alloy for racing, boosted or nitrous street
use. 4032 is a low expansion alloy best suited for street use where
one would want minimum piston to wall clearance to minimize piston
rock, noise and oil consumption. 2618 alloy has superior strength and
is the preferred alloy for racing use or street use with nitrous. But this
alloy requires significant increases in piston/wall clearance.

The Darton kit effectively converts the block to a wet sleeve configuration as
used on diesel engines. One cannot expect the original cooling system to
effectively cool and engine producing two or more times the power of the
original engine, along with a modified cylinder arrangement. We recommend “Evans NPG+™” coolant be used as well as Evans LS–1 reworked
water pump utilizing a relocated thermostat. High output applications may
also require a larger radiator and coolant fan. Evans coolant is recommended because of the potential for hot spots and cavitation around wet style

We require break–in and
tuning using an engine dyno or chassis dyno as follows:
∑After initial start up, warm up engine at 2000–2500, at no more than
100–150 ft. pounds of torque for 15–30 minutes. Precaution should be
exercised to prevent excessively rich or lean conditions, which will gall
the cylinders. Monitor oil pressure and temperatures.
∑After initial run, adjust valves if using adjustable valve train and re–torque
heads. Check for leaks.
∑Street engines will require multiple run–ins with increasing rpm and load
up to maximum output.

A racing engine is generally
built with sufficient clearance to require no further break–in after dyno tuning and power runs. However, we recommend head bolt torques be
re–checked cold after dyno testing as the head gaskets will take a set.

The Lounge / Free simulation modeling software?
« on: March 02, 2020, 02:13:49 PM »
Always wanted to design some parts in a software where I could add loads and have it help me optimize material thickness, Cg, balance, etc.  Like solidworks.  I can't justify the price for lack of use I would have for it.  Looking for a specific project that would take me a few months and wondering if anyone found a free software that was quick to learn, or maybe it was a trial that expired?  Solidworks lets you play with their designs in the trial but not my own design.  Also hate to lose months of work if the file is specific to that software and I couldn't keep it without the expensive annual fee.

Car guys are cheap, so figured some designer on here may know of a way! 


Drivetrain / Feels like 8.8 is steering the car
« on: November 15, 2019, 10:19:41 AM »
The last half of the summer the car seemed to get progressively more 'twitchy' especially around ruts in the road.  On the way to storage I was on the interstate and the car under power and transitioning between lanes (ie going up and over ruts on the traffic path) the car actually felt uncontrollable for a split second. 

I was thinking maybe bumpsteer, but it wasn't always this bad, and it actually seemed to correlate to the diff 'sticking' if that is a thing and pulling or steering the car. 

Anyone ever had this?  This is a 03 cobra diff so it has the carbon clutch pack in it stock.  I have changed the fluid 2 years ago with oem Ford and friction modifier.  My plan is to change it again in the spring (why don't they have a drain!?!) and see if it helps. 


Interior/Exterior / FD Passenger door pocket - what is the oval?
« on: October 30, 2019, 03:09:42 PM »
What is this oval piece? 

Daughter pushed it in and I'm trying to retrieve it.  What is it for?

Interior/Exterior / I’m sick! Mystery hood dimple!
« on: October 17, 2019, 08:57:24 PM »
Just noticed this morning, a flipping dimple which has appeared out of no where.  I haven’t even opened the hood!  I’m just sick!  I’ll be checking motor mounts guess. Look at those cracks!  The hood is like a black chrome mirror and was my favorite part of the car!  Some days just stink!

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Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Cupping tires on front - NT01
« on: September 27, 2019, 12:05:51 PM »
I have been looking into a vibration I had at a certain speed and may have found a clue.  I wish I could post a video of it but my front tires are really cupped on the inside of the tire.  They are NT01 and have about 3000 miles on them.  Still have the grooves actually.  No track time and kept at max psi for pressure. 

Is alignment the likely culprit or anything else I should look at?  Thanks!

Parts for Sale / T56 Viper spec, DS, Monster clutch for sale in Iowa
« on: September 19, 2019, 11:24:30 AM »
Viper Spec T56 rebuilt in 2013 and has ~10K miles on it.  Removed it and it appears input shaft is out of round.  Also possibly needs new snychros for 1/2 gear as it grinds on a hard 1-2 shift, shifts fine at any rpm less then 5000.  IT WILL NEED INSPECTION and possible parts needed so sold AS IS.

Background from Halfspec:
It started its life as a Dodge Viper T56. To mate it to my LS1 I swapped the bell housing, front plate, and tail housing (specially machined to work with the viper output shaft).

In 2013 the entire transmission was completely rebuilt by Texas Drivetrain Performance which included:
New Rear, 2nd, and 6th gears
Carbon kevlar synchro rings
Billet 1-2 keys
Billet 3-4 keys
Bronze 1-2-3-4 fork pads
Bronze shifter bushing
Steel 3-4 shift fork
All New Seals
All new bearings
Countershaft Extension

All in, it was a $2.1k rebuild


Additional items that can go with it (preferred) :

MGW short shifter w/turned the shifter handle in a lathe to take another 1” of length off of the shifter for an even sportier look and feel.

Custom aluminum Drive Shaft Shop driveshaft for this trans going back to a samberg 8.8 rear diff. 

Also Monster stage 2 clutch that needs a new disk which is pretty cheap to replace just the disk.

Taking offers on the the WHOLE lot and would prefer to ship everything on a pallet.

jskinger28@hotmail.com  for offers. 

Thanks all!!

Hi guys,

Debated putting this on their own thread in each section or just lump them all in here.  Installed new Magnum trans, swapping from a T56 Fbody/viper spec.  New RPS billet carbon made of gold dream clutch, and a new FAST 90 with 90 TB from my LS6 stock set up.  Here is the current list of things I need to sort out:

Surging cruise  - the cruise will open and close making the car surge forward and back.  When wiring the VSS we had to cut the plug off and re-wire a new one to fit magnum what happens if the wires are switched around?  On my VCM Scanner its reading a VSS signal about 8-20 mph higher then my GPS speedo.  The variance gets worse the faster you go.  Maybe a vacuum leak? (see below) FIXED TB was not closing all the way

Suddenly the running voltage drops under 13V while running.  All accessories off its at 12.2-12.4 while running and with some lights and stuff I am seeing 11.5V.  Battery is 9 year optima Red top, alternator is 'self exciting' and I think stock Fbody.  The battery should be ok, I baby it because I'm not sure I can remove it without removing the rear bin so it has a trickle charger on it over the winter and periodically in the summer.  So it appears at first blush the alternator is not keeping up.  What is the latest and greatest that works with a one wire hookup?  FiXED - New alternator

Howl near map sensor at start up varies with rpm and seems to go ahead once at speed - The map sensor on the fast seems like its just set in there and i put a zip tie on it to hold it a little.  Its a hard to describe howl that I have never heard before.  Anyone ever had such a noise and tracked to a leak?  FIXED - it was the IAC port on the new TB.  Adjusted idle down 20 rpms and its gone.

At 38 mph there feels like a harmonic shutter that goes throughout the car; I never had this.  I had a lot of other vibrations that are since gone but this one is strange and annoy AF.  Car is butter smooth at every other speed/rpm this rules!  This shutter seems more harmonic then mechanical.  Its very strange.  Reminds me of like a 40's pick up truck once in 2nd gear with some acceleration and a bad drive shaft LOL.  It does go away as soon as you hit 40mph.  Doesn't happen on decel.  Happens the most on light accel (TPS at 5-10%) Accepted - This is resonance in the car repeatable at a couple different speeds with 38mph being the worst, I am ok with it, not a big deal could be tires or i noticed my rear brake rotor hanging up. 

Thanks as always!  These mods have revolutionized and already great car!  One these minor things are sorted it will be a whole new feeling, I'm so excited!   :drive:

Truly one of the best mods I have done to ANY car. 

Drivetrain / What do you like for 60 mph cruising RPMs
« on: September 12, 2019, 05:17:51 PM »
What RPM do people think is the best for fuel economy. noise, etc while cruise set at 60mph?  I am running about 1800 rpm @ 60mph.  Which puts me at 2300 going down the interstate at 78 mph.  This seem high? 

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