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Topics - kinger

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Electronics / Auto Manual idea - Can MaxxEcu do this?

« on: April 12, 2024, 11:33:05 PM »

I ran across this clutch actuator and it got me thinking about creating a semi automatic t56 magnum. Using a strain gauge on shifter, the MME actuator, and gear position. Then some maths and a table to command a certain RPM with a DBW throttle body.

https://www.mme-motorsport.com/en/products/clutch-actuator

Floor the car, and never lift. Grab the shifter and pull through gear, never clutch with your foot. Each shift it commands a rpm to rev match based on speed. The actuator is faster than my foot. And ECU is rev matching precisely easier on synchros.

Goal - I get 8hp shift times in a 50 lb lighter, and smaller magnum trans that has better ratios and more fun?

Here is my rudimentary logic can any maxx guys confirm if this is possible:

Strain gauge no pressure 2.5v pushing is 0-2.5 and pulling is 2.5-5v

MME clutch actuator - ON OFF

MaxxEcu :
Wiring-
Switch to enable auto man mode
GPO 1 to MME
GPO 2 Strain gauge
DIG 1 Digital input speed
DIG 2 gear position
DBW APP1 (accel pedal)

Maths:
Gear 1 - rpm = DIG1 x 2.66 x 3.55 x 26
Gear 2 - rpm = DIG1 x 1.78 x 3.55 x 26
Gear 3 - rpm = DIG1 x 1.3 x 3.55 x 26
Gear 4 - rpm = DIG1 x 1 x 3.55 x 26
Gear 5 - rpm = DIG1 x 0.80 x 3.55 x 26
Gear 6 - rpm = DIG1 x 0.63 x 3.55 x 26

Logic:
Idling - GPO2 = 2.3-2.6 V GPO1 OFF, engine rpm as is

1–> 2 shift and command rpm based on speed and gear - GPO2 2.6-5v = GPO1 ON, gear position = 1, engine rpm = math 2, GPO2 = 2.5, GPO1 = OFF

2–> 3 shift - GPO2 0-2.4 V = GPO1 ON, gear position = 2, engine rpm = math 3, GPO2 = 2.5, GPO1 = OFF

Etc. for rest of the gears.

Likely want a CAN button to enable this, maybe selectable for different maps based on TPS, WOT vs cruising around and being lazy not wanting to clutch.

Thanks for the input!

Electronics / Digital inputs on Maxx or any ecu confusion

« on: March 06, 2024, 01:37:08 PM »

I feel I am decent at wiring but still a newb and can't quite wrap my head around Digital inputs on a stand alone. Specifically on the MaxxEcu Race version they list a ton of features under the digi inputs. Like AC compressor on, AC clutch off, 4 different ones for cruise control. On the physical wiring how do you do it with switches and to what inputs? It seems like the ECU would need a ton of inputs if you want to control cruise, AC, etc. I only see 4 dig inputs on the race ecu and 1 of those is speed. So its not a wire for input ratio do you use some sort or switch box? Or maybe I am over thinking it, originally I was thinking digital inputs are all the values available inside the ECU like MAP, TPS, etc etc.

I ran out of inputs on my Motec and sucked when I needed more but that was wire for input ratio of 1 so it was easy for me to understand and I never used any digital because I don't know what it is lol.

So just looking for a pragmatic example of how you used a lot of these with only a couple pins wired?? Thanks!!

Here is the Maxx digi input list:
-AC CLUTCH DISABLE

•AC REQUEST/IDLE UP

•ACTUATOR TARGET STATE

•ADVANCED WARNING SYSTEM, ENABLE

•ADVANCED WARNING SYSTEM, ENABLE CUT

•AFTER LAUNCH POWER LIMIT DISABLE

•ANGLE LOGGER

•ANTI-LAG ENABLE

•AUDI TRIGGER CAM SENSOR

•AUTO TRANSMISSION GEAR SELECTOR

•AUTO TRANSMISSION LOCKUP ENABLE

•AUTO TRANSMISSION MANUAL MODE SWITCH

•AUTO TRANSMISSION, ENABLE WOT RPM SHIFT

•AUTO TRANSMISSION, SWITCH TO 2ND SHIFT TABLE

•AVG FUEL CONSUMPTION RESET

•BMW BSD BUS 1 INPUT.

•BMW MS 43 STEERING WHEEL BUTTONS

•BOOST CONTROL ENABLE

•BOOST TARGET SWITCH

•BRAKE PEDAL/STOP LIGHT ACTIVE

•CAN, DISABLE ALL TX

•CHASSIS SPORT MODE

•CLUTCH SWITCH

•COUNTERS

•CRUISE CONTROL, ABORT

•CRUISE CONTROL, ACCELERATE

•CRUISE CONTROL, DECELERATE

•CRUISE CONTROL, RESUME

•CRUISE CONTROL, SET

•DIRECT ECU OUTPUT CONTROL

•DCT CLUTCHKICK/BURNOUT MODE

•DCT DRIVELOGIC DOWN

•DCT DRIVELOGIC UP

•DISABLE TRACTION CONTROL

•EGT POWER CUT, ENABLE

•ELECTRIC WATERPUMP OVERRIDE INPUT

•ENGINE RUNTIME+MAX RESET

•ERROR CODES, CLEAR ALL CODES

•ETHANOL SENSOR

•E-THROTTLE VOLVO BACKUP PEDAL POSITION (PWM)

•E-THROTTLE VOLVO MAIN AND BACKUP PEDAL POSITION (PWM)

•EXTERNAL LAMBDA 1, ERROR

•EXTERNAL LAMBDA 2, ERROR

•EXTERNAL LAMBDA 1, VALID

•EXTERNAL LAMBDA 2, VALID

•EXTRA FUEL TABLE X TABLE ACTIVATION SWITCH

•EXTRA IGNITION TABLE X TABLE ACTIVATION SWITCH

•EXTRA FUEL/IGN TABLE ACTIVATION SWITCH (ALL)

•FAN + ELECTRIC WATERPUMP OVERRIDE INPUT

•FAN OVERRIDE INPUT

•FUEL ADAPTATION, ENABLE ADAPTATION

•FUEL PUMP OVERRIDE

•IDLE CONTROL DISABLE

•IGNITION KEY

•LAUNCH CONTROL SWITCH, ENABLE STAGE

•LEAN POWER CUT, ENABLE

•LOGGING, RESET AND START NEW FILE

•LOGGING, RUN

•MDASH PAGE/RESET CEL (HOLD)

•NITROUS ENABLE SWITCH

•NITROUS PURGE

•NITROUS STAGE X ACTIVATE

•NITROUS TIMER RUN

•POWER MANAGEMENT SYSTEM DISABLE

•POWER MANAGEMENT SYSTEM ENABLE

•PULSE OUTPUT X TRIGGER INPUT

•PWM INPUT FREQUENCY+DUTY

•ROLLING LAUNCH CONTROL SWITCH

•RPM LIMIT, ENABLE GP LIMITER

•RPM LIMIT, USE SECONDARY LIMIT RPM

•RPM LIMIT, USE SECONDARY MODE

•SENT PROTOCOL INPUT

•SHIFTCUT

•SHIFTCUT ENABLE

•SPEED LIMIT X ENABLE/SET

•SPEED LIMIT RESET

•SPEEDSENSOR DRIVE SHAFT RPM

•SPEEDSENSOR TRANSMISSION INPUT SHAFT RPM

•SPEEDSENSOR WHEELSPEED FRONT/REAR RIGHT/LEFT

•STARTER MOTOR INPUT

•STOP ENGINE/PREVENT START

•THROTTLE BLIP ENABLE

•THROTTLE BLIP TRIGGER

•TIMER X START/STOP/RESET

•TRANSBRAKE BUMP/CREEP BUTTON

•TRANSBRAKE HOLD BUTTON

•TRANSMISSION DOWN SHIFT

•TRANSMISSION MODE SWITCH

•TRANSMISSION NEUTRAL SWITCH

•TRANSMISSION REVERSE SWITCH

•TRANSMISSION UP SHIFT

•TRIGGER CAM/HOME

•TRIGGER, HOME+CAM DUAL SENSOR, CAM SENSOR

•TRIGGER, TRIGGER SENSOR

•TURBO SPEED SENSOR

•USER CUT TABLE X, ENABLE

•USER PID ENABLE CONTROL

•VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR VSS (SIMPLE)

•VIRTUAL FUEL TANK DECREASE

•VIRTUAL FUEL TANK INCREASE

•VIRTUAL FUEL TANK RESET LEVEL

•VVT CAM POS. EXHAUST/INTAKE

•WHEEL SETUP (USE SETUP 2 WHEN ACTIVE)

•WATER/METHANOL INJECTION, LOW-LEVEL SENSOR

Note: All digital inputs can be triggered using a Digital input (DINx), or by using the internal outputs.

Drivetrain / Anyone swap 6th gear on magnum?

« on: March 04, 2024, 09:59:36 AM »

Looking to possibly swap my 6th 0.63 gear for the 0.50 gear in my Magnum close ratio trans. From what I gather its in the tail section so access is easy, but I see a lot of people really struggling to pull the gear off and install the new gear, like snapping jaw pullers, etc. Is this something that I should just take the entire trans to a shop and see if they can swap it? Is there a removable part of the the 5th and 6th gear, and reverse area I could remove and then take that to a shop?

Just curious if anyone has done it.

Thanks!

The Lounge / Longest road trip in RX7?

« on: February 28, 2024, 04:32:44 PM »

What is your guys longest road trip in the 7 and for what purpose? I have put so few miles on mine, thinking of selling, waffling back and forth... now I am thinking of a solo road trip 3000+ miles to clear my head, see some country, and do it in a car that is absolutely amazing. Maybe swing by friends houses I would have never thought I would drive to.

Iowa to Montana, Idaho, Colorado, and back.

Electronics / Gen 4 knock sensors into Gen 3 block - Good place?

« on: February 15, 2024, 11:06:55 AM »

With my mutt of a engine being that I got 58X reductor, but its a LS1 MID block. Anyone have a good location where to drill and tap the gen 4 knock sensors into a gen 3 block which originally had them in the valley cover? I understand the wiring and such say if I went with a Maxxecu it only comes with dual Gen 4 sensors so curious what the options would be to for this block.

Basic searching I see people mounting them on the block "wherever" they can, however I am looking for a little more technical info if it applies knowing the sensors are freq based, it was a major pain in my Motec Snowmobile knock sensor addition to calibrate it for false knock omitted.

If it doesn't matter that is ok too. Just curious from the IQ of this site. I don't trust a lot of what I see elsewhere. Thanks!

Electronics / Really good CAN sniffing tutorial

« on: January 30, 2024, 10:46:07 PM »

I don’t repost any vids ever but this really helped me understand what you guys are doing when sniffing CANBUS data. Both of these are excellent!

https://youtu.be/4gx_gLhNjvs?si=AbLhVIrI7V3UWgQL

https://youtu.be/-31_TQQYFtY?si=EzKGkpyBDfgGcvuB

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Drivetrain / Why no mopar swaps?

« on: January 03, 2024, 02:51:36 PM »

To preface - I am NOT a dodge/ram person BUT just browsing fleabay and trx/hellcat engines WITH 8hp90/95s already bolted up are $15K all day long. Seems like a steal of a deal when we all want a 8HP and know they are durable. Looks like Mopar has a ECU package for $2800 to run it.

Still a pushrod engine so headers would fit. Cast iron block seems not great in a FD but still only weighs 500lbs (I can't find totally dressed weight)??

Obviously hood wont work unless you remove SC and go turbo or something.

Other then the hood and possible weight penalty what am I missing? Maybe all the algorithms are programmed to send me only LS stuff but I don't see a ton of these being used for swaps in anything??

Please enlighten me if you know otherwise.

Parts for Sale / BNIB Ti valve spring retainers

« on: October 19, 2023, 10:30:43 AM »

These came in my TSP 660 spring kit and I didn't use them. Brand new Ti.

$100 shipped. Thanks!

Drivetrain / 8HP swap for $8800

« on: October 06, 2023, 08:50:29 PM »

I have been thinking about the ZF 8 speed trans to go behind my ls7 NA motor.

Seems legit garage quoted me $8800 shipped for everything but the DS. That is trans (dodge used with low miles and new filter and wired in board), controller, cooler, paddles, can keypad, wiring harness, base program to get it moving.

This seems really reasonable to me. It will work with my DBC TB. It does work better with DBW and getting throttle blips cuts.

The ratios are pretty similar to my Magnum. It would make the car significantly faster and more refined.

What are your guys thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

General Tech / Oil for AC compressor and charging R12

« on: September 11, 2023, 10:23:33 AM »

Hello all,

The V7 AC compressor snapped the shaft inside in a clean break (common problem). Replaced it and blew out the lines and system is 100% clean. My question is around the AC oil. I have mineral oil which is what I need for my R12 system (this is not a 134a car). The compressor came pre-oiled with like a ester oil which is compatible with both R12 and R134a. How much oil should I add and should I add it to the lines directly by removing the schrader valve or through the gage manifold set? I have it on vacuum and it's been holding fine for days. I did also replace the drier.

Here is what I was thinking:
Add 1 oz to high side pressure line by removing the schrader valve, and drawing a vacuum from the low pressure side. Reinstall the schrader valve and then vacuum it over night again. Finally charge it with R12.

OR

Just pull off the yellow middle supply line from the manifold throw 1 oz down there, then charge with the R12 hoping it grabs the oil as it goes into the system.

What is your preferred method?

Suspension/Brakes/Wheels / Replacing rear brake pads - not going well

« on: September 06, 2023, 09:30:48 PM »

I replaced all my rotors and pads and the Drivers rear is scrapping bad. So I took it apart looking for anything but I noticed that the outboard side of the rotor its scraped up high with a 1/2" mark and the inboard bad is scratched down low about the same width. Almost like the caliper is bolted on crooked and its tilted inboard not flush or something but I can't see anything wrong.

Lastly the 2 - 17mm bolts are they the actual caliper bolts? I removed the whole thing with the 2-14mm bolts. However the 17mm almost act stripped out they seem to turn hard no matter what direction I turn, I thought they were some adjustment, are they supposed to be tight?

Parts for Sale / FS: BNIB FEED adjustable carbon Wing $1900

« on: September 06, 2023, 12:33:30 PM »

Ends are not painted, carbon adjustable part quality looks amazing. $1900 plus the ride. New price is over $2200 now, price on vivid site they will not honor.

https://www.vividracing.com/feed-adjustable-rear-wingrear-spoiler-carbon-mazda-rx7-fd3s-9302-p-150743826.html

jskinger28@hotmail.com is my PayPal and preferred payment and contact info. Thanks!

The Lounge / Fiskar Karma's getting CHEAP

« on: August 17, 2023, 03:43:36 PM »

I mean $20K for this car seems to good to be true. Very nice look, interior, could work for a high performance EV swap, or gut it all and go LT4 or some boosted LS and vette transaxle.

Lost track of them a few years ago (They were over 50k yet) and just was playing on cars.com looking at donors for a project I was thinking about and shocked to see them so cheap. It would take some canbus hacking not sure how hard that would be in a 2012 car compared to today.

So thoughts on it? Would anyone bite on one and if so what would you swap it with?

Drivetrain / FD Front knuckle option for axle?

« on: June 26, 2023, 09:42:51 AM »

If a guy wanted to have AWD and needed a way to attach an axle to the front spindle, are there any options for doing this? Or we talking custom cut one off stuff? Anyone aware of any off the shelf options from other models that may fit? Maybe machine a hole in to match rear and use the same bearings and stuff?

I now it's a long shot but thought I would ask the brain trust here first! Thanks

Electronics / 99 PCM red blue adaptor harness source?

« on: June 08, 2023, 03:28:33 PM »

QQ does anyone know of a place I could buy a harness connector to unplug my 99 PCM then plug in a harness that I would then wire up to a new stand alone ECU? So essentially its OEM connector on one end (the factory ECU) and then all my splices then into a the specific stand alone harness plug.

Looking to see if its possible to build a harness on my bench then unplug my OEM PCm and plug in a Holley/Haltech or whatever I pick.

Of course all the custom functions I am adding with the stand alone would be added wiring outside the PCM connector but mainly looking to utilize all the wiring in the car and not use a new harness.

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